Okay I am sad to say that my E and I almost got into an accident on Friday night...my husband and I were on our way to dinner and on a highway overpass when this idiot realizes he is in a turn only lane and comes flying over into my lane...no turn signal...no nothing.....so I have to slam on the breaks and the horn.

Well...this is the first time I used the horn on the E....man it is whimpy!!!!

Anybody out there mod their horn??

Just curious....I just think the horn should be more primal.

Yes, I have also noticed the weak horn. I'm going to be putting in a FIAMM horn. I have had these on a few BMW motorcycles. They will get peoples attention. You can check them out at...

http://www.fiammamerica.com/HornsIntro.asp

Go straight to the FIAMM website...they've got not just noisemakers up
or out of the WAZOO - they've got more KAZOO's than you can shake an Element radio antenna at. I got a FIAMM with THREE of the red plastic horn "elements" - but am a little slow on planning my attack for the
ultimate invasion and takeover; i.e., replacing the stock one which makes
even little kids laugh out loud - almost as loud as the Honda 'honker'
itself. Actually, one of your nearby accessory houses will have the perfect
FIAMM just waiting for you. BEEP-BEEP!!!

The "El Grande Twin" sounds pretty good. I always have loved the Cadillac tri-tone sound though, and am thinking of hitting a junkyard to see what I can find. My '89 Wrangler had the same tone/type of horn as the E, and the Caddy horns worked well on it (except for always getting mud/muck in them)...

I plan on moving my air horns from my Ford F-250 to my E. I just have to find a compressor that will do the job in a small space.
If this idea doesn't work, I will probably purchase an electronic air horn from Galls www.galls.com.
Miss my big rig sound... the horns I have are made for tractor/trailor rig. just don't know if they will fit.

I went to the local Camping World store and bought an air horn that some say sounds like a boat, but it is diffenetly LOUD. I had NO place to hide it under the hood (and you E owners KNOW what I mean.) so I mounted the horn AND compresser up on the rack mount with one hole drilled into the mount (The first hole I have had to drill, though not IN the body,what with all the accessories I have added like power cord from battery to ham radio, ham antenna, and radio, spotlight and remote controls for it, and back up alarm) and wound the electric wire down between the door and body into the cab. I want the big rig sound too, so someday I will find the right big rig sound. HondaHummer, you got any ideas?

Shaka,

Ger

I slightly wondered why lots of folks here have upgraded the horn. Well, after yet another "yowee!" near miss, it was obvious from the lack of getting attention when attention was crucial that the E's horn was simply blending into the background noise.

I noticed three things about the stock horn: first is that it is a single, relatively low note - most horns are in high/low pairs. Second is that the horn "outlet" is 1/4" from the frame, so the sound is partly blocked. Third is that between the bumper skin and fender inner liner it is enclosed in a box with only a couple of small openings.

IOW, a low hard-to-hear tone, muffled in a box. Time for a fix.

My fix was Fiamm air horns, and cutting some "speaker holes" in the fender liner. This is more than most are going to want to do, but it addresses the major issues. Here are the results:

http://www.everywherewest.com/hornsabove.jpg http://www.everywherewest.com/hornsunder.jpg

>I think mine seems to work fine?

Our situations seemed pretty genuine... saw the impending problem, blew horn, got no reaction, and then the look of sheer terror from the other motorist realizing that they had not noticed us and had caused the close call.

>More step by step, please? How much $ and time involved?

Horns were $25 at AdvanceAuto. It took about three hours, but most of that was machining the custom mounting brackets.

You have to remove the inner fender liner (driver's side) first. That's a little involved. Removing the old horn was easy (12mm wrench). I tried several positions with the compressor and the trumpets before arriving at what's in the pix. I built brackets from 1" x 1/8" aluminum bar stock, but that's overkill. You should be able to do the same thing with hardware store "perf strip" - metal strips with holes drilled every 1" or so.

The compressor needs to hang down vertically if you use the single screw mount for the original horn. You can't use the original horn bracket with this compressor because the hose fitting is in the wrong place - a 6" strip will lower it far enough.

The trumpets are attached to another bracket attached to the grounding bolt. Another 6" of strip wil work there, too - just position the trumpets so they don't "clank" together, and clear the fender liner (follow the angle shown in the photo).

I drilled suitable openings at the bottom of the fender liner with a 1/2" drill, followed by tin snips. I preserved the molded "ribs" in this area by making the holes between the ribs. I had some perforated plastic material which I cut to cover the new holes, and attached them with push-type plastic fasteners bought at the hardware store for about a buck. You could easily use the same sort of gutter screening everyone uses for the lower radiator opening.

I over-engineered everything because I have the resources to do it "heavy duty" and then never have to worry about it again.

Which isn't entirely true. Those Fiamm compressors don't last forever, and will probably have to be replaced at 60,000 miles or so.

Hm... If you don't have fog lights, how would it look with the trumpets just peeking out of the fog light holes?

>how would it look with the trumpets just peeking out of the fog light holes?

I thought about that for about two seconds and decided it would look silly. It's bad enough that they sound silly. :wink:

They wouldn't last very long, anyway. These cheap air horns don't do well with water in the trumpets. You have to aim them downward. Besides, to do one in each side you'd need separate compressors - they're too wimpy to handle much tubing.

Does it get others attention now... how does it sound to loud to weak ? just curious I like the idea I was thinking about doing the same but using a voice recorder and some expicet verbage :"bleep bleep out of my way"

lol

:twisted: :twisted:

Oh, it gets noticed. Had the occasion last night... mindless idiot on their cellphone with a map in the other hand seemed to have a little difficultly staying in their lane. Odd how that works.

If the "voice" thing was legal you could buy something like it. But they're not, so you can't. Civilian use of voice on external speakers in a moving vehicle was outlawed ages ago, for obvious reasons. "Road rage" is hardly a new issue.

:roll:

Discovered since making the change - the confirmation "beep" you get when you double-press the keyless lock button doesn't quite work with the new horns. The beep is too short to spin-up the compressor long enough to drive the trumpets. You'll hear a loud click and maybe a grunt from the horns, but that's about it.

Panic alarm works fine... and I recommend not testing it around the neighbors. :lol:

...I neglected to mention that the "new" horn wiring needs to be on its own fuse, and the new horn activated through a relay. The regular horn shares the circuit with the brake lights, and the compressor takes too much current for both to be on at the same time.

IOW, if you blow the horn while on the brakes (a natural condition), you will blow the fuse. Why Honda's engineers would do this defies all logic I'm aware of.

:roll:

Yeah, I went down to the local RV accessories center and bought a air powered hairy-legged truckdriver deisel-type horn, and originally mounted it to the top rack. Since the horn and RV remote spotlight were mounted on top and since it interferred with resonable gas mileage, I moved them down to the front bumper guard, but had to mount the horn with the bells facing down. They stuck out too much if they were pointed out, but I did not want them TOO obvious by mounting them on the front fender or top of the hood. Gets peoples' attention. But what really gets their attention is the 118 dB back up alarm that sounds like a dump truck backing up that I mounted under the back bumper and made switch activated so I would not wake up the troops in the neighborhood when I backed out at o-dark-thirty in the AM!

Ger

IOW, if you blow the horn while on the brakes (a natural condition), you will blow the fuse. Why Honda's engineers would do this defies all logic I'm aware of.

I think they usually do it so you will know quickly that your brake light fuse is blown. "Hey, my horn's not working. Wonder why?" I'd prefer that it share a fuse with the dome light, though, if that's their reasoning.

My air horns beep just fine with the locked door signal from the keyless, and I've laid on them with the brakes actvated without blowing a fuse, as well. Guess we must have chosen different wiring schemes! ( And I'm all relayed, fused up and protected, too, thank you!) :lol:

Maybe a horn from a '72 Caddy.

Did it. Dual horns fron a mid-80's "family truckster" at the junkyard. Five bucks, unbolted the old and bolted in the new. They work like a charm, and sound like a real car.

Or maybe you'd like these:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=77839

$39.95 isn't bad for dual airhorns with a built in compressor.

That's probably a FIAMM unit, which are great. I own a Lancia Zagato that came with a FIAMM air horn from the factory. It's way friggin loud and it's kind of high pitched too, which is really surprising to people. It's an attention getter.

I've been thinking about adding an Italian Air Horn to my E. I want to keep the OEM horn with activation in the steering wheel, and install this one with a separate button where the fog light switch is, since that is not being used. Has anyone installed an air horn as a separate accessory? If so, how easy was it, and what fuse did you use?

This is the model that I'm interested in.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.jsp?searchtext=air+horn

>It will be really loud if I click the keyless remote button twice.

Not a problem. Compressor isn't up to speed in the small time the "lock confirm" beep lasts. Ours amounts to no more than a "[boop]", and most of the time is only enough for one trumpet.

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6354

As far as fusing goes, I wired a separate fuse directly to the battery with #12 wire and kept the run short. The compressor draws quite a bit during the first few milliseconds.

I've got to replace it. An airhorn sounds like the way to go. I just had a large restraunt supply truck BACK UP into me at a stoplight. Despite the 15-20 feet of room I placed between myself and the rear of the truck. It was quite horrifying to see this immense truck continue to ponderously roll toward me while I screamed at the top of my lungs bashing the horn impotently. I was able to have the presence of mind to finally throw the E into reverse (! luckly, no one was behind me!) just as the truck rolled into the front hood of my E -- the loading plate of the truck just scratching the hood.
To add insult to injury, at this point he still didn't realize he had hit me, or would have rolled over me entirely if I hadn't gone into reverse. So he drives off. I throw it back into drive, and chase after him, still pounding that lame-ass horn. It wasn't until we both stopped at a light and he saw me YELLING at him that he realized I was there. He couldn't even hear the horn (or much else) over the rattle of the diesel inside the truck.
Air-horn, here I come. Thanks for the link, Mike.

Our Odyssey has a painfully loud horn. I think I may try to put one in parallel with the existing E horn. There is a big salvage company in town where I expect I can get one.

MikeQBF, if you are reading, do you expect that the stock wiring/fuse could handle the two horns in parallel without adding an additional relay/circuit?

Of course, an old Caddy horn would be fun. Those things are what, 3 or 4 tones?

Bill

I'm the first to respect the job Mike does on his modifications, but after replacing the factory horns in nearly every car I've owned (lots) over 30 years with air horns, I can assure you that I quit powering the compressor independently 20 years ago. Back in the 60's Italian and British cars had notoriously fragile electrical systems, and it was the right way to do it. Virtually all cars now have adequate relays in the horn circuit, and I've NEVER blown one fuse in an American, German, French, and now Japanese car in 30 years of experience with air horns. Yeah, you'll still have to remove the front "bumper" cover to install them on an Element, but don't feel compelled to spend valuable free time independently powering the compressor on a standard two trumpet air horn setup. In fact, I've ended up using the relay that comes with air horns for my fog lights over the years. Because fog lights really DO require an independent relay!

And by the way, I've used my horns when I've had my boat trailers attached, and drawing current for ALL the brake lights, and still never blown a fuse. Just one guy's real-world experience -- nothing more.

Fiamm horn from Pep Boys. I am going to wire them in tandem, and bump the fuse to a 20. Doe's anyone know If I can replace them without ripping off the front bumper. Thanks.

I am going to ... bump the fuse to a 20.

A 20 amp fuse is beefy enough to handle current from a 12ga. wire. The wires in the circuit you are dealing with are most likely 16 or so --- 14 at best.

In other words, if you had a fire on one of those tiny wires due to overloading, a 20 amp fuse would blissfully never see it --- the wiring would burn first.

If the horns you add need lots of current, the only safe way is to run a dedicated, thick power line to them and control them with a relay. The relay allows you to use a normal (non heavy-duty) switch and small wiring elsewhere.

I have thought about doing this as well

Fiam snailshell horns, or lookalikes are the loudest without an air horn. The come in pairs (High/Low) and cost about $20 to $30 per pair new or $1 per pair from a junkyard. In the junkyard, Ford Tauruses and many European cars (esp some VW and Audi) have them. You will probably need a relay to get enough power to more than half the pair.

The metal bracket they sit on is important too - don't mount the horn directly to the body.

Air horns are great, but take up more room and take a second to power up when activated. You will definately need a relay to power them. If you get one, don't aim the horn forward like most people do. Craps will get in it and plug it up. (They don't have to be aimed forward to make the sound go forward.)

Good luck,

Thanks for the link, Mike. I hope drphun reads it far enough to see that I didn't bother with a dedicated power supply or another relay for the compressor. Had my horns for over a year and not a single problem with blown fuses or anything else. Air horns do respond a little "slower" in below-zero temps than electric horns do, but only until the engine compartment warms up in general. Besides, when there's a real "need" for them, a good, hard lay on the button summons up the appropriate response! :twisted:

I somehow assume that Mike's been using air horns (and similar "stuff") for as long as I have. Mike is the kind of guy who builds and wires "for life"! I used to be that kind of guy, but have been more inclined lately to get the damn job done in a reasonable amount of time. And so far, my shortcuts haven't "cost me". So take this merely as an FYI, that Mike and I get some of the same things "done" at the two extremes of effort put forth. Both tactics seem to work, and allow plenty of middle ground for most to choose from, I'd think. :wink:

Mike's installations are works of art. Mine are sometimes unspeakable (my horns are wrapped in foam and mounted with nylon tie-wraps, for crying out loud! But they don't rattle, and since they're completely hidden from view behind the front end cover, nobody but me, and now all of you, "know what they look like")! :oops:

P.S. VW/Audi high end horns sound great, but I'd steer clear of them on a Honda. They can be incredibly "fussy" with grounding, and are more trouble than they're worth if not in their "native" environment.

Hello All,
I'm interested in doing this mod. Installing two Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horns Mdl AM80 in place of the stock horn.

Question is do I need a horn relay and bigger fuse. The original mod used a bigger fuse and no relay. Will this mod work with neither? I'm confused.

Thanx,
Phil

You most likely need the relay. On my last car, I did it without adding a relay and it worked ok for a while until the horns burnt out. On another car, without a relay the horn couldn't even get enough power to sound.

As I've said on another thread, I no longer use additional relays, even when using air horns, which draw far more momentary current than the horns you plan on using. The last two cars I used relays on resulted in burned out relays from old age and underhood moisture leading to corrosion. The "stock" relay is inside an enclosure (better protected from the elements) and exactly the same rating as any commonly available aftermarket relay, so why waste your money. I have no idea why drphun had the luck he did, but my personal experience with air horns and relays outnumbers his by nearly ten-fold.

As far as someone helping you with diagrams, photos and advice online - if you're a novice, this is gonna be interesting, and I wish you and your tutor the best of luck. My advice is either skip an additional relay, or have someone help you in the flesh! It's not so much that it's difficult, but it is fussy, and one wrong move can lead to a massive electrical nightmare if you're clueless.

Worst case without using an additional relay -- you buy another set of horns (pretty cheap).

Worst case using a relay if you've never done this before and aren't all that sure of yourself -- you could burn your Element to the ground, with or without a nice explosion for extra entertainment. :oops:

Yes, relays burn out, but not that often. One starter relay perhaps every 20 years has been my experience.

I looked at the electrical diagram last night and there is already a relay there, so you wouldn't normally need another (if the relay can take it.) Relays are usually rated for amperage, although most basic ones are 20A. It is usually printed on the side of the relay if you want to look.

Honda wires it a little wierd, though as the actuator for the relay, the power to the horn through the relay and the brake lights are all through the same 15A fuse (#7?). The risk is that if you blow the fuse, you lose your brake lights.

Some people might replace the stock fuse with a higher amperage, say 20A. The risk would be that something like wiring that is not sized for it could melt, but it is not like the horn gets used for very long at one time and Honda is usually pretty conservative.

Good luck,

> The risk is that if you blow the fuse, you lose your brake lights.

And the shift lever solenoid stops working (can't get it out of "park"), and the cruise control won't disengage if you step on the brake pedal. There are multiple "nasties" resulting from blowing the horn+brake light fuse.

The problem with simply "upping" this particular fuse is protecting the non-horn wiring, which is too small for 20A. So it will overheat and possibly melt insulation if faced with a 20A load.

For instance, if you connected trailer lights to the brake light wiring directly (the "official" Honda trailer light hookup has relays), you could easily overrun the wiring's ability to handle the current, yet you wouldn't blow the fuse.

Probability of disaster is extremly small, but you do need to know the full ramifications of what you're dealing with here.

FWIW... yes, I used a relay, and ran 12AWG wire directly to a tap on the battery terminal through its own 20A fuse. The improvement in horn response (compressor spin-up) was significant because the larger wire didn't restrict the inrush current like the original horn wiring did.

Mike's remarks are correct, as usual, and so are drphun's follow-up observations. I particularly advise against replacing a fuse with a higher-rated fuse. That is simply not worth the potential risks. Still, I've used my direct wired trailer lights, while braking, and the horn still works fine at the same time without blowing a fuse. I DO carry a spare fuse, but that's still far cheaper than what I maintain is a non-essential relay. Like drphun suggested, the horn is typically used only momentarily anyway.

But I'd never wire up halogen auxiliary lights without a dedicated relay and fusing, since those tend to be steady, long term loads. :idea:

[quote:85905df49c=" "]Some people might replace the stock fuse with a higher amperage, say 20A. [/quote:85905df49c]

If I wasn't clear when I said "some people might" what I meant is that you could probably do it and probably get away with it, but if you don't it could be a big problem.

I recall that an air horn draws something like 10 amps, so while it might work as is, it could be close. A larger fuse will provide a higher margin, but at increased risk. The snailshell horns draw less.

Also, consider that resistance in the wires and connectors use some current, and, as it ages dirt and oxidation add alittle more resistance.

Best,

Hey drphun,

The Fiamms are the snailshell type.

Thx,
Phil

Don't want to steal Popeye's thunder, but I know he's been having trouble posting pics. Last week we replaced the stock horn on his E with a dual tone Fiamm electric horn from J.C. Whitney. It sounded so awesome that I went down to Auto Zone the next day to get the same setup for the Elefnt. I'll probably replace the air horns on my truck too (good tone without the compressor delay). No additional relay, no fuse upgrade, just cut off the Honda connector and wire it up. Used the mounting bracket that came with his kit, but I used a 4" strap bracket from the hardware store for my installation. Removing the front fascia from the Element is nowhere near as daunting as it first appears, and it's an easy one person job. Thanks to Popeye for being the guinea pig on that task. Aligning the fascia, fender liner and fender panel takes a little persuasion, but is not all that difficult. Just note how it fits when you take everything apart. This is another very gratifying mod.

http://publish.hometown.aol.com/mh2ke/images/r%20horn%202.jpg

Did the air horn thing on my Miata a while back. After about a year they stopped working. As noted here-in when you try a quick tap - they would just kind of grunt. After posting some ?'s got hints about bells up vs down, treating with 3in1 routinely and putting a nylon filter over the bells. Then I replaced the entire set figuring they were lemons and bought an upgraded set, bigger compressor but still little plastic bells. 9 months, same problem. Worse than a weak horn, sometimes they worked, sometimes they burped.

Good air horns last (those on my 3000 ton 'boat' get fed with high pressure air and make PLENTY of noise - aka a fog signal)

Cheap plastic air horns don't seem to.

Switched to Fiamm matched electrics and no problems since.

Air had cool sound but the Fiamm are just as loud with no delay and so far - 3 years - reliability.

Of course in my Classic Mini I just keep one of those compressed air can, boat horns next to the seat..... one of these days I'll fix that horn!

I bought for the Miata from a Miata parts house....

http://www.mmmiata.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=MM095-DU&reference=/cgi-bin/shopper%3Fsearch%3Daction%26keywords%3Dhorn%26sear chstart%3D0%26template%3D/home/mmm/www/Templates/SearchResult3.htm

but there was nothing special about these horns. They did not need a relay in the Miata (but I think that's cus the original circuit already had a relay.)

I put a similar set on my Honda motorcycle/suicide sled in about an hour....hardestthing is finding the best mounting point.

Don't make it harder than it must be.

btw - the air horns I had on the Miata were from "crazy red italian" - great package, too many detailed instructions and every small bracket made to exact fit. Too bad the horns themselves crapped out fast, it was one hell of a package.

Peace- I seen people's thread that you hooked up those FIAMM electric horns - model AM80 (higway blasters). I want to do that as well. I went to the autozone store and picked a pair up,- high and low tone. Now i just want clarification that all i need to do is run the the low and high horns together neg to neg and positive to postive. then run striaght to honda stock power wire that was going to the stock horn-- no fuse changes or relays needed???

I loooked at the power cord that goes to the stock horn and its that plug type- did you just cut that off and splice a peice of wire to it... what kind of wire did you use- 12G? what did you use to protect yr splices- tape or those splice connectors things.

If its that simple - i can save my 5o-60 bucks to pay somebody else to do it.. nothing like doing yr own :-D

Thanks for practical feedback :grin:

I'm curious. I have the Honda security system installed. I am reluctant to replace the existing horn with a really loud horn because the alarm system sounds the horn when it is energized. If I install an auxiliary horn, setting the alarm (late at night) would aggrevate the neighbors. A second horn button would do the trick, but where to install it without trashing the interior??
Suggestions please.

i've just done a big look back at the horn install threads, and didn't see any that really discusses how difficult it is to access the horn. does one really need to remove the front fascia? is it accessible otherwise?

also, has anyone measured how loud the oem horn is? i see that electric replacement horns up to 110-120 db are available.

is it worth it to replace the oem with a 110 db electric replacement? (only $25!).

i couldn't find it on the majestic site. can any of you?

i've just done a big look back at the horn install threads, and didn't see any that really discusses how difficult it is to access the horn. does one really need to remove the front fascia? is it accessible otherwise?
Yeah, you really do need to take off the front fascia, but it is surprisingly easy. The details are listed under FAQ/How To's.

also, has anyone measured how loud the oem horn is? i see that electric replacement horns up to 110-120 db are available. is it worth it to replace the oem with a 110 db electric replacement? (only $25!).
No measurements, just the SEG factor.:D Incredibly rewarding. Better than air horns (no delay).

i couldn't find it on the majestic site. can any of you?
Just about any dual electric (snail) horn kit from Pep Boys, Auto Zone, even J.C. Whitney will do the trick.

I'm curious. I have the Honda security system installed. I am reluctant to replace the existing horn with a really loud horn because the alarm system sounds the horn when it is energized. If I install an auxiliary horn, setting the alarm (late at night) would aggrevate the neighbors. A second horn button would do the trick, but where to install it without trashing the interior?? Suggestions please.
Inexpensive, dual electric air horns are a big improvement over the stock horn...crisp and clear, but not obnoxious. I wouldn't worry about it.

I replaced my horn about 6 weeks ago. Paid for itself the first week when it kept someone from side-swiping me on the Beltway. With interest the second.

Dual electric air horns. The E now sounds like a big old Buick. A very, very worthwhile mod.

The installer put it in the space in front of the left front wheel, accessible by removing the plastic thing on the bottom. I think that's where the original horn was. I had also replaced the horn on my Miata. Worth it's weight in gold.

The auto manufacturers have it backwards: the smaller the car, the LOUDER the horn should be.

Now I'm thinking I need a P.A. system, in case other drivers can't read my lips. I try to refrain from sign language.

I ordered a set of THESE (http://www.sportscar-parts.com/mivastore/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=sportscar&Product_Code=PIAA85112&Category_Code=horns) for my E. Haven't installed them yet, but I'll post results once I do.

The PIAA electric replacement horns look interesting. Please post if you added a relay or other wiring changes to make them LOUD!

These two sites have nice collections of horns, both electric and air.

http://www.wolo-mfg.com/index.html

http://www.buellairhorns.com/

Just added a Fiamm "Freeway Blaster" low-note horn, Model 72112, 132 dB. I mounted the new horn where the old one had been, and moved the old one to a lower spot. Just had to tap into the wire (soldered and shrink-wrapped the connection) and drill one hole. Note: Be sure to orient the horns so they don't trap water or debris.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/images/horn.jpg

The "low" tone isn't very low, but it is a little lower than the stock horn, so you do get the dual-tone effect. Fiamm actually has a sound file of the 72112 on its Web site, so you can hear for yourself (http://www.fiammamerica.com/media/productsounds/79885032172112.wav) what it sounds like. Looking forward to doing a side-by-side comparison with a single-horn Element.

Good thread on removing the front bumper here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68802).

Autosupermart.com has two PIAA electric horns to replace the OEM in two frequency combinations. Anyone replaced their WIMP HORN with either of the PIAA's?

Doug

Just added a Fiamm "Freeway Blaster" low-note horn, Model 72112, 132 dB. I mounted the new horn where the old one had been, and moved the old one to a lower spot. Just had to tap into the wire (soldered and shrink-wrapped the connection) and drill one hole. Note: Be sure to orient the horns so they don't trap water or debris.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/images/horn.jpg




I'm doing this mod in the morning as I just got my element out of the body shop after 3 months....anyway. Could you explain the wiring a bit? There are two horns, one wire if i understand it correctly.

Did you simply cut the power wire and make it two wires, one for each horn. Each grounded separately or on the same point? Both examples of the FIAMM electrics look like they are wired a bit different.

Bald Eagle, did you solder the ground in place?!? Looks like it in your picture.

One thing to consider would be adding a relay for your horns, but you probably don't need one with just the electrics, the way we who have compressor air horns do. Some, like rambledan and MikeQBF are methodical, and solder their connections, but you probably don't have to. Crimps seem to work OK. Separate grounding for each horn isn't a big deal; nor is splitting the single hot lead for the two horns.

Side note: I thought I'd put a relay in for my air horns, but discovered I hadn't the "hard" way. The stock horn is on the same fuse as the brake lights and the park shift lockout. I'd laid on my horns good and long one chilly morning under braking, and it took me the rest of the day using a screwdriver in the slot to get out of "Park" to realize the error of my shortcut last year. So two weeks ago I took the front end off once more to relay and fuse up all properly.

>So two weeks ago I took the front end off once more to relay and fuse up all properly.

I heard that.








:grin:

I made that remark in public specifically for your benefit Mike - old buddy, old pal. Heh. :lol: But I confess, it was your cautionary note from long ago that allowed me to figure out the problem in the space of one day, and on my own, so to speak.

You just wait though - once I get settled in NZ and have my JDM right-hand drive Element, I'm sure you and I will be able to find some fresh nits to pick, over adult beverages, naturally. :twisted:

Really wish you could make it out for the big meet, but I understand the assorted obstacles you face. :sad:

I'm doing this mod in the morning as I just got my element out of the body shop after 3 months....anyway. Could you explain the wiring a bit? There are two horns, one wire if i understand it correctly.

Did you simply cut the power wire and make it two wires, one for each horn. Each grounded separately or on the same point? Both examples of the FIAMM electrics look like they are wired a bit different.

... did you solder the ground in place?!? Looks like it in your picture.

I simply tapped into the power wire (soldered and shrink-wrapped, as noted) to connect the new horn. The ground wire on the new horn has a female spade connector on the horn end and a ring connector on the ground end. Those connectors are crimped.

The stock horn is a little better than the sqeeky ones so I am putting in air horns from Grover Air Products. Talk about LOUD!! The kit comes with a air compressor and a tank, horns and air solonoid. The compressor should fit under the hood with no problem and the horns will fit behind the bumper on the driver's side and I hope the tank will fit in the passenger's side. I have this same kit in my Dodge truck with a fire horn and its loud. :evil:
Brian

I've noticed that the horn is wimpy in the cold and I'm interested in addressing this with Honda. It is really annoying that they didn't check this or insure that the horn would work well regardless of the outside temperature.

It's realy how much power you have coming from the Battery! I have noticed that on cold mornings the horn puts out a sick sounding grunt. After My bat went ded from leaving the radar det. on all night, I jump started off my trooper. I blew the horn wile geting out, it sounded normal. after disconnecting the Jumper's and parking the Trooper, I blew the horn one more time. I gust grunted.

After driving for 15 min. it was back to normal. It Just needed the Battery to come to full charge.

I just installed FIAMM 'Freeway Blaster' horns while I had the front end off for gutter grill and side marker light conversion. I used the brackets that came with horns with an additonal bend on the inboard horn. Soldered splice and slip connectors to original horn wire. Test blow brought the wife running to see what all the noise was about!!!:shock: :roll:

Please let us know if you find anything that doesn't sound as wimpy as the oem horn on our Es. The little $hits up the street just laugh when I honk at the to get the hell out of my way.

LOL...I installed a set of HadleyAir horns(Bully Series Kit No. H00964H) on my wifes Ram P/U last year. Her horn, I swear, was more lame then the E's. Now it's like a big rig semi coming at you. WOW is all I can say. If there's room on the E for one I'll be putting one on or something similar.(OOOhhh maybe an OOhgah horn)
Heres a link to Hadley site http://www.hadley-products.com/hadley.html

and the chepest I've found so far was at Camping World http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?deptID=&subOf=120,339&skunum=21241 If your a member there it is even cheaper yet.
Good luck in your searches

My previous owner installed a FIAMM horn with air compressor in the, or near the left front fender well...have to look and find it...

I have used it once..result...neck twist...and move out of my way.....

my son was screamming for me to honk again..... its loud..works with the E's horn, they did not disable it....so you hear reg horn and then the Fiamm kicks in......kinda of cool.....but after you play with it for awhile....you are going to want something even more powerful....like car stereos....

Have fun....if i have some time I will post a picture of the set up....

Just remember...loud horns scare the S--- out of people......be carefull you you blast....

If you install a seperate fuse panel, with its own fuse from the battery, then you can pick up your hot lead from it. Use a relay and run a wire from your factory horns to trip the relay. That way when you blow the factory for more than a 1/2 sec the air horns blow.
Most air horns come with a relay and the instructions on how to wire them. You can buy a buss fise panel for about $8 from advanced auto and the air horns from Harbour Freight for under $20.
Do a search and its all been discussed here before, Tim

if i were to put in a new, louder horn, would it affect the little honk that the element makes when you lock the doors? i don't know about wiring or anything, so would it still honk, or no?

You will still get that little "honk" as before. Thats what I meant when I said a 1/2 sec delay before the air horns work. Thats if you keep the factory horns hooked up and tap into that feed to trigger the relay, Tim

I just bought a set of Dual Air Horns from Hella today. I didn't have the time to mount them, but I wanted to test them out. Took a few mins and wired it up outside the car and they are pretty loud, and I only had one of the two hooked up.

I'm using a separate switch wired directly to the battery, as I don't want to have to have a delay in the main horn. I haven't decided on a location as of yet, but under the steering column or under the change drawer are my probables.

for those wondering, the horn set cost me $50 plus 5 for a switch. Can't wait to get them going so I can scare some blue hairs :P

I installed Wolo horns which are very similar. Mine are chrome not plastic but I can't imagine they sound demonstrably different. If you go to the Wolo website (just google it) each horn has a linked audio file that will give you an idea what they sound like. After listening to their audio file and then installing the horns I can say that you get a good idea what the horn sounds like from the website.

Everyone wants their horn to sound like a semi or a train but for the big bass tones you need gobs more air and that requires an onboard compressor so ... compared to the stock horn (which is really faint) these sound just fine and are plenty loud, so loud in fact that I don't ever double tap the keyless lock unless I am away from the vehicle. Ouch.

No more wimpy-ass horn for me!

I took off my bumper yesterday to finally mount my Cloud Rider grill and I decided to upgrade my horn. After seeing/hearing the improvement a second horn made in 1mrdad's and hownowbc's cars (it has been often said here the problem with our horn is that it is a single tone horn), I decided to add in another one myself. I stopped at the local AutoZone, finding an ex-employee is now the manager. After congratulating Ryan on his improvement in life, I bought another horn for $12.95. It looked just like the OEM horn but was marked "low" tone.

Installing it was a snap. I just mounted it to the existing horn. The bracket my new horn came with was a hair short but a back strap, drilled out by a multibit, solved that. Imagine that - a car stereo shop with extra back straps lying about. What are the odds? :-D I used a crimp cap to tap into the existing factory wire and grounded the other terminal on the horn bracket. Although there is a ton of room in that part of the car, I bent it back so that the mouths of the two horns opened into the same area. This way they would modulate each other if the frequencies were close (they weren't). This also guaranteed I'd clear the fog lights. 15 minutes later I had a bad sounding mo-fo horn. I'm now proud to honk and tell that piece of sh!t in front of me to get out of my way!

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940070/horn2sm.jpg

Ok guys (and gals) I really want to do something about the wimpy horn but since I am doing mods pretty much by myself I do not want to tackle taking off the front of the car. Is it possible to do anything to improve the horn without such an "intensive" process? It's not that I think it's too complicated. it's that I am 5'1" and weigh like 100 lbs and light as it is, I think the bumper etc might just be a little difficult for me to handle alone. Every pic I have seen it appears that the existing horn is only accessible after the front is removed. Yes?
Sigh, I think I am gonna sponsor a "mod party" at my house for DFW EOC members - trade work for drinks, pool priveleges and food :D

Ok guys (and gals) I really want to do something about the wimpy horn but since I am doing mods pretty much by myself I do not want to tackle taking off the front of the car. Is it possible to do anything to improve the horn without such an "intensive" process? It's not that I think it's too complicated. it's that I am 5'1" and weigh like 100 lbs and light as it is, I think the bumper etc might just be a little difficult for me to handle alone. Every pic I have seen it appears that the existing horn is only accessible after the front is removed. Yes?
Sigh, I think I am gonna sponsor a "mod party" at my house for DFW EOC members - trade work for drinks, pool priveleges and food :D

The bumper skin itself isnt that heavy.But having a second set of hands does make it easier to put back on with out scratching anything.When i wired up my air horns i didnt remove the cover.I just pulled the lower splash shield down to give me access to the horn wires.

Autosupermart.com has two PIAA electric horns to replace the OEM in two frequency combinations. Anyone replaced their WIMP HORN with either of the PIAA's?

Doug

I think that if you install the pair of PIAA electric horns ("Freeway Blaster") you will need to run a new--fused--circuit with relay. I just added a sigle "low tone" Freeway Blaster to the factory horn. The results are pleasing :cool: and the installation was simple.

The Jammeress wants the same setup.

G.J.

FWIW:
I added a Fiaam Freeway Blaster "low tone" to the '05. The Jammeress also wanted "more horn power" but did not want the exact same setup that I had. So I installed the Fiaam Freeway Blaster "high tone" on her '06. In both cases, the new horn was added in series with the OE horn (w/o relay using factory circuit).

I think the "high tone" makes a better combo with the OE. It has a pleasing sound and is more likely to be noticed than the "low tone". IMHO.

Best wishes to all the music lovers in the horn section. 8)

G.J.

I know this thread is old but I didn't want to start a new one for this question. Can you simple unhook the OEM horn and connect an after market electric horn(10 amps)? :confused:

Yes, you can. :)

Any horn for an Element may draw 10 amps or less. If you choose a horn set that draws more than 10 amps, you'll need to use a relay and a dedicated power source for the horns. There's plenty to be found on this, probably in the Do-It-Yourself section of the forum.

If you don't, you'll risk blowing the same fuse that your brake lights and automatic transmission lock are on. You'll know when that happens after you discover you need to use a long-shaft screwdriver in the console slot to get your car out of "Park". Not fun, and the blushing "voice of experience" speaking here. :-P

...I neglected to mention that the "new" horn wiring needs to be on its own fuse, and the new horn activated through a relay. The regular horn shares the circuit with the brake lights, and the compressor takes too much current for both to be on at the same time.

IOW, if you blow the horn while on the brakes (a natural condition), you will blow the fuse. Why Honda's engineers would do this defies all logic I'm aware of.

:roll:

I figured that much and was planning to do a relay anyway. I haven't thunked about this until I saw this thread. I got a diesel locomotive train horn stashed away somewhere. Last time we 'played' with it we pissed off all the peoples two towns over... :-) I now need to find a compressor or install a small tank to blow that sucker... :-) I will not be ignored, I don't think!!!

On sale this week at Harbor Freight for 12 bucks:

12 Volt Super-Loud Air Horn with Chrome Finish ITEM 40135-1VGA

* Easy installation
* Weather-resistant PVC and galvanized metal
* Super-loud 135 db

It does make a difference where you mount a horn, and how it's oriented. There's a marked decline off-axis, which is why factory horns are mounted up front. Ideally a horn trumpet would be outside the engine compartment and high. ( If you have a roof basket, you could mount a horn in it and run one air tube to it. :shock: :D)

HF also sells a 3 trumpet 2-level 135 db horn for 30 bucks, and a 100 db Ooga horn for 10 bucks.

I'm curious. I have the Honda security system installed. I am reluctant to replace the existing horn with a really loud horn because the alarm system sounds the horn when it is energized. If I install an auxiliary horn, setting the alarm (late at night) would aggrevate the neighbors. A second horn button would do the trick, but where to install it without trashing the interior??
Suggestions please.

Install the air horn in addition to the stock horn. Add low current draw SPST relay. Wire it's NO contacts to the air horn relay coil and (+). Wire the added relay's coil to the AUX II power circuit and (-). The air horn will then be enabled to sound only when the engine is turned on, similar to DRLs.

well being that I am board at work and have some time i saw this thred and thought I would offer my solution to this issue. I addd the following part to my horn and made a huge diffrence. Many have also done this and the thred is called Horn mod...another approch. Basicly I added the Accord High tone horn to the factory one that the E comes with. The accord has two horns and one is the low one (that the E has) and a High one, that I added that part number is as follows 38150-SDA-A03 HORN ASSY. 8034977 it will run you about 25 bucks.

well im buying my element from my parents and my dad had put in a harbor freight air horn thinking it would be louder and it wasnt, it was noticeably quieter and 10 times more humorus when honking the horn. my current idea is to get a pair of high output train horns and mount a compressor and the horns in the engine bay....and i think that should do the trick:smile:

Littlepilot89, if that air horn (Wolo Bad Boy?) isn't loud, it's likely defective. It should be LOUD. It is hooked up with its own power source and relay, not to the stock horn wire, right?

brand new to the forum and hoping someone can help me out with this FIAMM installation. I've got the pair of twin electric 12volt El Grande FIAMMs; I believe I have them hooked up correctly but am getting nothing from them when I lay on the horn.

Currently they are hooked up as described in the diagram that came with them.

Wire that used to go to the old horn snipped and crimped a terminal onto it and put onto the relay in its proper position.
Wire going from positive of both horns then spliced and sent to its proper position on the relay.
Short jumper on one slot of the relay to another than sent to the positive side of the battery with an inline 10amp fuse.

The only thing I see as questionable are these two things:
(1) the horns came with a male terminal that is attached to the mounting arm for a negative wire to come off the horns themselves but they are both bolted straight onto the metal of the body and should be grounded already because of this right?
(2) in the diagram it shows a dotted line coming from the positive of the battery to a symbol that is a triangle and a square(just realized its the symbol for a horn?) then from the symbol a solid line with an 'x' between the symbol and the horn button.

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE A GIFT FOR MY GIRLFRIEND AND ITS HARD TO FIND TIME TO WORK ON HER CAR WITHOUT NOTICING. AND NOW SHE HAS NO HORN!! any suggestions appreciated.

edit: I just bypassed that damn relay and hooked it up just as the original horn was. Am i going to run into any problems because of this?

Short jumper on one slot of the relay to another then sent to the positive side of the battery
I don't get that part. A typical relay has four connections: switched or "acc" (A, often labeled "85"), battery (B, often labeled "30"), device (C, often labeled "87"), and ground (D, often labeled "86"). I didn't see any mention of a ground connection on your relay.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/spacer20.gifhttp://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/eoc/relay01.gif

Are you using a 4 pin or 5 pin relay?

This diagram is for foglights but i used the same set up to wire my airhorns.

http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

85 Wire from switch (In this case your stock horn)
86 Ground
87 Wire to horns
30 Fused power direct to battery.

I read in this thread where someone installed a Fiamm Freeway Blaster High Tone to supplement the existing Element low tone horn. I bought the Fiamm High to be installed next week. Then I started thinking about my options. Would it be better to add the Fiamm High to the existing horn or buy a companion Fiamm Freeway Blaster Low Tone to replace the Element horn. If it's better to have the Fiamm Low, I might as well do it all at once. BTW, the Honda dealer will be doing this and other mods such as the trailer wiring. I don't have the time or the tools. My Element also has the enhanced security system and I don't want to take a chance on breaking anything vital.

Would it be better to add the Fiamm High to the existing horn or buy a companion Fiamm Freeway Blaster Low Tone to replace the Element horn?

I had the Fiamm High added to the existing Element low tone. Sounds like a real car now.

I had the same problem with my horn. I went to a junkyard ant took a low sound horn out of a Odyssey and installed inline with the high sound horn on my Element, used the same mounting bracket to hold bolth horns. This took about 15 min to do and what a differance
The horn from the junkyard cost me 2.50

Did the H.D. Gutter guard lower grille mod today so I figured it was a great time to make the E be heard too.

Installed the Wolo Maxi Sound hi/low universal horns (Model 320-2T $22.95). Used the OEM mount for one horn and bolted the other to the easily removed outer frame horn bolt. (The horn isn't as close to the airbag sensor as it looks in the photo) Removed the OE connector and added the twin wires necessary for the dual horns. Heat shrink tubing on all the connectors. Also used blue Loctite on the horn nuts to make sure they stay tight.

Sounds like a REAL car now!

The horn on my E is NOT wimpy...
I need to put all the details on here sometime....:lol:

I have an on board air system in my E, primarily for roadside service and other emergency response.

I have an air horn from a retired fire engine installed under my hood and connected to an electric air solenoid with is connected to my normal horn button.

It's got plenty of get the hell out of my way attitude behind it, and it's loud enough to, god forbid, scare someone off the road into an accident. I don't blow it unless there's about to be an accident.

If your car alarm goes off, no doubt about it whoever tried to break in will get scared away, and your county will hear it.

So I've read through this thread a few times and have a question.

Those of you who installed the FIAMM El Grande Twin Horns, did you have to use a relay or did they just work with the original wiring?

Haven't purchased it yet, but I'm thinking of getting it.

So I've read through this thread a few times and have a question.

Those of you who installed the FIAMM El Grande Twin Horns, did you have to use a relay or did they just work with the original wiring?

Haven't purchased it yet, but I'm thinking of getting it.

As stated above, i have an upgraded horn different from these Fiamm horns.

However, i'd like to share with you that in my setup, i used a quick splice to connect the existing horn wire to a relay, which then provides power to an air solenoid valve.

[ADDED A MINUTE LATER]

The power wire to the stock horn is of a high (thin) gauge wire. I am not familiar with these Fiamm horns. If it is an electric direct drive air horn, i would strongly recommend the use of a relay.

So I've read through this thread a few times and have a question.

Those of you who installed the FIAMM El Grande Twin Horns, did you have to use a relay or did they just work with the original wiring?

Haven't purchased it yet, but I'm thinking of getting it.

I cut the OEM connector off. Made a 6" long jumper wire and crimped it and the factory wire into one female spade connector, then another female spade on the other end. Works like a champ.

Some moron in a massive pickup nearly killed me one day, making a left without bothering to look to the right. I jammed my horn and brakes as I saw him pulling out but he kept right on going. I doubt you could hear my crappy stock horn over the diesel engine in his truck. Skidded around him and muddied up my tires on the shoulder but survived.

Big Problem! So I bought a wolo badboy horn for like $25, and had it installed for $20 at a local gas station. This horn is exactly what I was looking for. It is dual tone, comes with a relay, and really wails. It recommends installing with a 20amp fuse so I had them include that in the install.

Today I was driving through town and some woman starts pulling out in front of me without looking (I swear her head was facing the complete opposite direction, I could see the back of her head.) I honked, her head snapped around and she hit the brakes.

This horn isn't obnoxiously loud by any means, but it really gets your attention.

Bottom line- GREAT HORN
I would recommend the Wolo Badboy for any car, it has a truly great sound, is very simple and compact, and like I said, it really does the trick.

Some moron in a massive pickup nearly killed me one day, making a left without bothering to look to the right. I jammed my horn and brakes as I saw him pulling out but he kept right on going. I doubt you could hear my crappy stock horn over the diesel engine in his truck. Skidded around him and muddied up my tires on the shoulder but survived.

Big Problem! So I bought a wolo badboy horn for like $25, and had it installed for $20 at a local gas station. This horn is exactly what I was looking for. It is dual tone, comes with a relay, and really wails. It recommends installing with a 20amp fuse so I had them include that in the install.

Today I was driving through town and some woman starts pulling out in front of me without looking (I swear her head was facing the complete opposite direction, I could see the back of her head.) I honked, her head snapped around and she hit the brakes.

I have problems like that all the time. It's sad but a lot of people really cannot drive safety, or respect that there are other cars on the road. Congrats on the new horn. I am sure that there are good, not obnoxious horns out there, and i am curious to learn more about the other options. If you do have a really freakin obnoxious horn, don't abuse it... too often.

I have recorded a demo video of my air horn and sirens.

See here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKGTcXPsHSQ

I am curious to see the horn mods done by other E owners.



NOTE: If this post doubles i apologize, i submitted it once and my computer froze up, so this is try number two.

I haven't done this yet, but I'll do it this weekend. I need to pick up some wiring, not sure which kind, for this.

But this link is a pretty good write-up of how to install the FIAMM El Grande Twin Horns. I'll have to stop by Autozone today and see if they have the wiring for this.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/59265-new-fiamm-horn-install.html

So, I guess I need some help with this. I read that whole post, and I'm still not understanding what to do with the original wiring.

Do I need to cut the head piece off from the original wiring and connect it directly to the new horns? If anyone who has done a horn replacement could explain the wiring, I would appreciate it.

I posted a new thread in the DIY forum on how to install the FIAMM El Grande Twin Horns from the Toyota forums. Pretty good pics in the thread too. I may have to take some pics when I do mine this weekend.

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=896702#post896702

If the Element's horn wiring is anything like a civic, there's only one wire going to the horn. A switched +12V power supply. The horn itself needs to be mounted to something metal. It actually acts as it's own ground.

The relay is a simple automotive relay. It has 5 terminals.

http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/relaytextA2.gif
http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/relaytext2b.gif
http://images.the12volt.com/12voltimages/relaytext3b.gif

2 terminals are used to make the relay move.
85&86. One will have your factory horn wire going to it, while the other you'll have to run a wire to ground. When you send power to the relay's coil it will switch the relay.

Terminal 30 is the common terminal. That one is where you'll want to run your constant +12V from your battery (with an inline fuse of course).

Terminals 87 and 87a are your switched terminals. There are where terminal 30 is sending it's power to, depending on if you're pressing the horn button or not. You'll want to use the "NO, or normally open (87)" terminal. This is called normally open because when there's no power supplied to the coil (86) there is no continuity between the 30 and the 87 (normally open) terminal. Run a wire from that to each one of your horns.

When you send power to the relay (86) by pressing your horn button, the Normally open (87) terminal will now close and have continuity with your common (30) terminal and the normally closed terminal (87a) will now be open.

Hope that between my description and those pictures you can figure out how a common automotive relay works.

BTW, the reason you use a relay is because they can handle a higher amperage draw than your normal horn circuitry can.

I'm wondering if I need a relay with this, as it's only 12V and 10 amps. If I don't need a relay, then can I just connect the original wire straight to the horn and connect the second horn with some more wiring?

Oh and thank you very much for that detailed description. I am mechanically and electrically challenged, so I guess I'm learning while modding my E. I can build you a good computer though, hehe.

Like I said, you really don't NEED a relay in there. Not sure what the horn circuit's fuse is rated at, but if it's a 10 amp, replace it with a 15, and just connect the stock horn wire to both horns. The horn isn't something that's energized for long periods of time. Hell, I think I can count on one hand the number of times I've used my horn for more than a second in my almost 3 years of owning the E.

IMO, replacing that fuse with a bigger one should be safe. It's still going to blow long before any of the circuit's wires would ever melt. There are plenty of 20+ amp circuits in that car that use the same gauge wire as the horn circuit.

The reason I went into the relay thing is because the horn kit will actually come with wire, the relay and an inline fuse to do a "proper" install.

Maybe this will help. Your original horn is inside the fender in front of your left front tire. You can take a screwdriver and remove a couple of screws from your fender well liner and reach the horn from there. You can unplug the original horn or just tap into the wire. You will need to run the wire up inside the fender where you can reach it from under the hood. You can use 14 gauge wire for the whole thing. You will also need a pack of crimp on terminals to connect the wires to the horns and relay and you will need a special pair of pliers to crimp them with. Run 2 short wires from either terminal on the horn to the bolt where the horn is mounted to the metal under the hood. That is your ground. Then run wires from the other terminal on the horn to the relay. If you look closely on the relay, the terminals are marked with numbers. Attach the wires according to the chart and you should be good to go.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/horn.jpg

My horn stopped working (fuse is fine). I have no interest in adding an additional horn, but just want to either get my original horn working again or replace it with a new one.

I have no experience with electrical work and don't want to mess with that. Is it easy to replace? How do I do it?

If I should have someone else do it, where should I take it?

Thanks.

Download the 2004 fog light installation instructions (http://www.handa-accessories.com/element/04fogs.pdf) (courtesy of site sponsor H and A). Page 2 shows how to remove the front-end plastic (which Honda calls "bumper"). The horn is under the left headlight, as you can see from several posts in this thread. Remove, replace, reinstall plastic. Should take about 15 minutes with ordinary hand tools.

Call me crazy but since we all have such polite horns I was wondering WHY we would have to go through any effort on our parts to have a real "safe" horn installed. I was so mad that I didn't try the horn first before I bought the vehicle. I love this toaster but the horn is simply dangerous.
I was thinking of passing around a petition and have them to replace the horns for all of us that haven't already done so. I live in Chicago and there are always morons who cut you off and are not even looking. You desperately need a good horn to wake them up. I am not someone who uses a horn most of the time but there are moments when you absolutely NEED THE DARNED THING and it sounds like a polite tender gendered individual trying to tap some big dude on the beach in attempts to notify him in the nicest way he happens to be blocking his way along the board walk and could he please move.:twisted: