Using a Kenwood KSC-WA62RC "wOOx" powered sub I molded it to a DX's pocket console. I had originally mounted the sub under or on the back of the rear seats but decided that with it's small size it could fit in the stock sub's location. After a new headunit the stock sub was useless but I wanted something in it's place. Something clean, almost stock looking but also a customized enhancement. Something very similar to what the JL Stealthbox is but without it's carpetted hump, price tag and need for an additional amplifier. So after just a few afternoons here's what I came up with:

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/269038.jpg

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/269039.jpg

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/269040.jpg

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/269041.jpg

The sub's remote control is now mounted to the radio trim surround.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/269042.jpg


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/269046.jpg

The sub surprisingly puts out alot more bass than you'd expect judging by it's size. I have a one a half year old so I'm not looking for a sub unit that will break me off another butt crack but for me this was a nice step up from the stock unit. I was very close to looking into a sub box for the rear but with this I retain all of my rear compartment space and still don't require another amp.
Plus I've saved myself several hundred $$$ and have the custom console I've wanted.
You can read Crutchfield's review of the KSC-WA62RC along with an equally nice Basslink here: http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/reviews/20040413/bass_reviews.html

:shock:

.:drool:.

how much? how's the sound? will it work with a stock EX system?

Hey Empire,

Kewl Job, looks factory!

How does the Woox compare to the factory sub? Better or Different, please explain.

Thx,
Phil
ps Did u glass the woox into the space or use bondo?

I got mine off ebay for a little over $100.
For me it's plenty beefy. With the right song at the right level I can step outside, close the door and hear the plastic on the door handles vibrate. It can go pretty low but I haven't pushed it to it's limits. For it's physical size, it's amazing.
It has connects for either speaker or RCA hookups.

I think it sounds a lot stronger than the factory sub.
Believe me, I'm not an audiophile so I can't give full details to it's performance characteristics but for being a little larger than a loaf of bread with it's own built in amp I'm extremely happy with it.
I've had it for almost a year now and have been pleased with it mounted in back but now that it's up front you notice just how much this thing puts out.
I considered glassing it to the console but I've never worked with FG before but considered this to be a good project to try with. But I wanted it done fast and I've sculpted artwork and wood work with Bondo before and have plenty of experience with using it so the Bondo won out.

Empire, that looks great! Very professional. Wood and bondo, is that correct? I'm not familiar with the DX's pocket, so I can't really tell where the Element ends and your work begins --- and I guess you can't ask for more than that!

man i would get that but im not sure i could get that inclosure.... u should make like 10 of them and sell em :) make some extra $$$$

Nope, no wood. Just Bondo and plastic. It's just the sub attached to the console and Bondo to fill the gaps and shaped to blend in. I bolted the sub unit to the front of the DX console using 6 bolts and fender washers using the sub's existing threaded mounting holes. Here's a pic of both the EX sub cover #8 and the DX pocketed version #7.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/catimgs/13SCV01_B3715.gif

I could've used the EX sub cover but since it protrudes outward from the shape of the rest of the console the sub would have stuck out further as well.
I already had a DX cover on hand and since it keeps the shape of the console above, and infact curves inward slightly, it was the better choice for the Kenwood sub's size and shape.
Believe me, I wish I could produce more of these. I'm a little surprised no company other than JL has designed a powered or non-powered replacement direct fit console for EX owners that want to upgrade or DX/LX owners who just want to add a sub without eating up rear storage. I thought there'd be mention of something like a Q-Form for the Element by now.

Well, remember kiddies, if They don't make then make it your damn self.:D

YUMMY!!! i want a taste of that! great work! i'm hating on you... just kidding. HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Based on that, what if you took that apart, stuck everything behind the ex grate and hid everything behind it?

What about just using the sub out of it with the stock amps?

These are questions I would kill to know the answers too as I search for a drop in replacment sub thats efficient enough to kick with the stock power.

That is awesome! Nice work.

Based on that, what if you took that apart, stuck everything behind the ex grate and hid everything behind it?

What about just using the sub out of it with the stock amps?I honestly can't say. Thought did cross my mind wondering if the unit could be disassembled and tucked behind the stock cover. I just wasn't sure how it would sound if not in it's normal configuration. The lower woofer is the powered one whereas the upper speaker is a passive radiator. The back of the unit is a metal plate that is some what vented. It obviously doesn't need a spacious cavity of air to give a decent bass response. I'm sure everything in it could fit within the space that the stock sub box takes up. I just didn't want to ruin "the wOOx" technology..........whatever the hell that is.:D
Plus I like the look of the displayed speakers.
I like watching them jiggle.:-o

Well I guess using the stock power would be out of the question since the sub is not DVC.

Problem lies in if I did take it apart and hide everything, I would have to tap the lines coming from the deck instead of using the existing, not hard, just something else to do.

Still debating if I want to throw that money out the window in case it doesn't work out.

Very nice.

I just had an epiphany. :-o

Though that is very cool and beats the heck out of an external amp and $250 more for a stealthbox. It exceeds my bondo expertise. More of a mechanic that a bodyman. I'm surprised noone has thought of this yet...

It seems to me many people are in the market for something to make the stock system sound a little better, without having to change everything out and put in after market this and external that...hence the list of door speakers that fit without modification. Not audiophile quality, but better.

So after upgrading the door speakers to something that is a direct replacement, and fitting in some better tweeters in the stock locations on the A pillars, try this...

What if you left the stock sub alone and fully functional. Then tap into the speaker out leads to the sub right next to the stock amp and split them off into a line lever converter, or just use the speaker level input to get a signal to drive the wOOx. Plus your normal remote and power/ground.

Now here's the best part. Why mount it anywhere?
Remember, we have seat back pockets with ajustable straps that can hold anything we want. Why not a sub? Particularly one that weighs next to nothing.
Mount it with cord to either the driver or rear passenger seatback. No hauling capacity lost, full functionality with the head unit controls would be enhanced by the remote on the sub unit. You fold up the rear seat, the sub goes with it! Now you have two subs!

:lol:

Now excuse me while I go bask in the ambiance. :-D

I might have a better one.

Need to know what the resistance rating is on each of the voice coils on the stock sub. Anyone know?

If they are 2 ohms each, why can't we just get a 4 ohm SVC sub and throw it in with the connections in series?

I originally did have the woox tucked behind one of the rear seat bungees. Then even before that had it under the rear seat. Both worked out great and neither location took up the amount of space a normal enclosure would have but to me this little guy was begging to be a custom centerpiece. Plus the bass is even stronger now that it's right beside me. The Bondo is really easy to work with though. Just slop it on to fill the gaps and sand smooth. Once it starts to take shape slop on a bit more to fill in the rough spots. After it was as smooth as it was going to get it still had a few dimples here and there that I filled in with model contour putty. Sand again and it's ready to paint.

Here's another shot before I installed it.
The cool thing is that I didn't need to paint the front half of the enclosure.
The unit's black plastic matches that of the Element's dash. Even the silver speaker trim echoes the circular design of the instrument panel.


http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/271861.jpg

I can see why the DX cubby hole/box thingie would work better. And thanks for the added info.

It appears like the wookie, er, I mean wOOx, is secured to something you made, like a wood frame (I know you said no wood was involved) that got blended into the DX' piece.

So when you say the Bondo filled in the gaps, does that mean you actually permanently Bondo'd wookie to the DX console?

Yep, it is what it is now, There ain't no going back. I bolted the sub directly onto the front of the DX console and filled and contoured the edges of the sub with Bondo to blend with the sides of the console as seen in the last pic.
The cubby bin can actually be unscrewed from the rest of the console from behind leaving only the square opening. At one time I though about modding an additional LCD down there visable thru the opening but it'd be kind low for the passenger to view comfortably and I already have the 6.5" indash screen anyway.
Here's a shot of the inside of the console.
You can see the 6 bolts with large fender washers used to secure the sub to the console using the sub's existing mounting holes. You can also see the square opening where the cubby bin used to be. But yes there's no wood, just plastic on plastic with a handfull of bolts and about 1 and a half small cans of Bondo. Most of which was sanded away during the shaping process.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/272450.jpg

At the bottom you'll notice the 1.25" hole I drilled in the console to allow the wire harness, RCA and remote cables to pass thru and connect to the underside of the sub. It's low enuff so the cables aren't visible but off the floor so water and debris won't damage them and also to allow wiggle room to connect and disconnect in case I need to remove the console to get at the heaps of wires behind it.

cool as the other side of the pillow

wow, hats off to you!!!

Nice work, looks good.

Just only if we could hear it.

Thanks, man, that was the pic I wanted to see. You're such a tease! Now I get how you did it.

A final "concern". I think you mentioned something about a vent in the back of the Kenwood. Is that to vent the internal amp, or to vent the speaker enclosure? Either way, don't you now have it covered up?

I doubt the vents do much of anything. Infact if you look closely you can see them in the last shot. Look just on the inside edge of the square bin opening and you'll see 2 thin slots on either side. These are the "vents" I mentioned. The unit creates very little warmth when on for long periods of time and it's designed to lay flat on the back side anyway. You can also see four more slots at the top of the opening. Just behind these is the magnet for the top speaker. Most of the backside is just a solid metal plate.

Empire that is tight... Nice work. I will make one recommendation. SEM makes interior dash and molding spray paint to match the interior. You can purchase it at any autobody supply. They will need vehicle make and model. The match is pretty good. Hats off to ya looks good.

That is by far the most impressive alternative to the stealthbox I've seen. I am running a GIANT 12" DVC (750 watts per voice coil) and it hardly beats at all in the back of my Element. Ive played it in other vehicles and it SLAMS - but not in my E. I figured it had something to do with the "stadium seating" in the E screwing with the acoustics...who knows.

I would like to know how the dash rattle is with this. With the sub not bolted directly to the metal frame of the dash like the stock sub, does that decrease dash rattle? My stock sub rattled my dash like CRAZY and I ended up disconnecting it, but I've always wanted an alternative sub up there.

This looks fantastic. Great skill and ingenuity. I really REALLY want one haha.

You do realize you could probably make a fortune if you made these in bulk. I highly recommend you contact kenwood about it...PATENT the idea, and make yourself a nice bundle of $$$. You're already half way there, its documented that you are the first to show you've done it.

Dude you have some skills there brother. If I ever attemped something like this, it wouldn't probably come out looking nearly as "finished" as your home made Stealth. My current home made custom stealth box sounds good but looks like ass. It would probably also take me a month to produce my Frankenstein cabinet. If I had your skills I would attempt it, instead I'll have to write a check to JL audio for the stealth. Your sub looks good.

Thanks a lot guys for the compliments.:D
Sier you were asking about dash rattle. It's weird, the dash has no rattles what so ever, atleast that I can hear over the bass. But the ENTIRE dash does vibrate including the steering wheel. Now it's nothing crazy where my hands go numb but you can feel the bass thru the wheel and by laying your hand on the dash much more than I remember the stock sub providing. You can feel it thru your legs and thru the floor also. It's a smooth interactive feeling rather than an annoyance. Will this vibration eventually cause dash rattles? I'll have to wait and see. So far so good tho. The good thing is that, for my taste, it fills the interior with decent bass without bleeding outside the vehicle. I get enuff weird looks as it is in the Element without deliberately causing a few more.

I'll try to contact someone at Kenwood and atleast play show and tell just to see what happens. I figure it would be fairly low cost for them since all the guts and most of the front half of the enclosure could remain the same and a direct fit molded plastic back half would be their only design challenge or so I think. I'm just not sure if Kenwood has ever ventured into model specific products or wanted to.
I'll let you know how far I get.

Oh about the paint. The colors actually match much better in normal lighting conditions. The flash from the digicam gives it a glossier appearance than it really shows in person. From the front seat looking down it's like it was meant to be there. I used a base coat of Krylon Fusion gloss black to cover the remaining plastic and then several coats of Krylon primer grey with light sanding in between coats. I then sprayed a couple coats of Krylon satin black and then a protective coat of Krylon crystal clear.
I never tried the interior spray Mix mentioned. It does sound nice tho and worth a try. I just used what was on hand or readily available. For years I've made custom toys, spaceships, playsets and Krylon has usually always done pretty well with most plastics. Especially their new Fusion line.

I was actually going to ask about that. I've been an avid graffiti artist for about 10 years now, so I handle a can of paint pretty well. But I've found that the plastics just dont have enough of a pourous surface to not cause a "gummy" surface from the paint. I've read several times about the Fusion line and how it chemically bonds to paint...

Is it really a breakthrough, or does it just bond a little bit better than the old? I wouldnt mind adding a few tiny personal touches to my interior, but I'm very skeptical of how well the paint bonds to the plastic.

How long does it take for the paint to fully set on the plastic? Does the paint scratch very easily? When it does scratch, is it gummy, or does it just "grit/flake" off like normal paint?

Back to the subject at hand - Thats very cool about your dash. I tinkered with my stock sub when I first got my Element and tried to match volumes to my other sub, but I noticed at high volumes my dashkit (for my aftermarket headunit) was rattling nonstop. I made sure everything was as secure as could be and tried again - and no rattles. For a week.

And then it was all back to normal. I think a lot of this has to do with the fact that the stock sub mounts right onto the same frame the headunit does. This causes any vibrations from my sub to travel directly to the plastic dashkit and just rattle the living crap out of it. And its more than securely bolted in.

So when I saw your mod I was, at first, amazed at how smooth and professional it looked. Then I got to thinking about that dash rattle and how your sub was no longer firmly bolted to the frame under the dash.

Once again, great work.

Oh, and how does the clearcoat bond to the Fusion line of products? I've found that most in-can clear coats leave a satin finish instead of "clear" simply due to the atomizing spray from the nozzle....

How much to make me one?

To me the Krylon Fusion line is a dream come true. I've worked with projects involving plastics for years and when it came to painting them it was usually hit or miss. Regular Krylon does better than most of the off the shelf brands on plastic but when they finally released a paint just for plastics I've been buying cans of Fusion ever since. From my experience using it, it bonds pretty well. Doesn't gum up and leave the plastic sticky and so far does well on plastic even with exterior applications. I painted my front and rear bumper and grill trim with the gloss black Fusion and it's holding up great.

http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic/7564FApN/273325.jpg


As for a price to make the console I'm not sure. I'd atleast need the sub and DX console and that would run about $180-$200 based on Ebay prices for the sub and Majestic for the console. The rest of the materials I could provide.

empire... if you could work out a price... and a way for the wOOx to connect to the stock EX system in place of the current sub... i'd be very very very very interested.

empire... if you could work out a price... and a way for the wOOx to connect to the stock EX system in place of the current sub... i'd be very very very very interested.

DITTO...Especially if the price is around $200 bucks and it sounds better than that stock thing they got there. I just got my Infinities in, the 6002i series for front and rear and 1001t tweeters. All thats missing is a nice sub to compliment them that doesn't overpower the stock deck.

PLEASE keep me informed on this.

empire... if you could work out a price... and a way for the wOOx to connect to the stock EX system in place of the current sub... i'd be very very very very interested.

Should be straight forward.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you should be able to remove the stock unit, use the existing sub speaker leads to a line level converter. Use that for your input signal, run a power, remote and ground and off you go.

It should even allow the same adjustability with the stock controls as they are effecting the input signal to the amp on the wOOx. :grin:

Should work in theory. :roll:

DITTO...Especially if the price is around $200 bucks and it sounds better than that stock thing they got there. I just got my Infinities in, the 6002i series for front and rear and 1001t tweeters. All thats missing is a nice sub to compliment them that doesn't overpower the stock deck.

PLEASE keep me informed on this.

yes me 2.....................

$200 wouldn't be feasible. not for the amount of work he would need to put into it.

i'm guessing if he does take us up on our offer... it'd be like $350 - $400 for the product.

The power and ground are easy enough - 2 feet to the right of the sub is the power and ground for the existing amp.

and yes, the sub should drop right into the existing setup (that is, if you have converted your high-level outs to low level RCA's [which is very easy to do] on the back of your stock headunit).

$200 would just cover the needed components and that's at discounted sources, ebay, Majestic etc. Plus about $15 worth of Bondo. Maybe $4 for metric bolts. Sanding discs/paper I have endless supplies of thru the family company and about $10 of paint. It's just time that's the killer. It only took me a couple afternoon and half a weekend to go from an idea to it thumping beside my right knee. But lucked out with having a wife that was down for a couple days with a stomach bug and my folks babysitting for a couple days. Normally my "free" time is having Hotwheels thrown at my head while watching Baby Einstein DVDs with my one and a half year old. I'd love to be able to pump these out for everyone but I doubt I can finish them as fast as I want to give them. Plus I've sucked in enuff Bondo dust to choke an ox. I wonder where them dust masks went. By the time I factor parts cost and labor it'd be close to what a StealthBox runs. However you'd still need an amp with the Stealth. But for those that want to try to make a similar project I can walk you thru the process, just let me know. If I'm able to make one or two of these custom subs you guys will be the first to know.

I also started thinking about what other powered subs would work for this mod.
Clarion has a new 7" / 120W amplified sub that's flatter than the wOOx and could probably be bolted directly onto the front of the EX's sub cover without the need for sculpting the sides but could be if wanted. It should only be around 1" wider than the cover's width and at 13-5/8" tall (when turned sideways) it should be very close to the sub cover's height.
Or it could even fit much easier behind the driver seat or back seat bungees.

Check it out at Crutchfield.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-WjXMxUNAhIL/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&I=020SRV303

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2004/020/l020SRV303-f.jpeg

Dammit Empire...will you stop posting such cool things like that powered Clarion subwoofer!?! Its bad enough I just ordered a JVC DVD/CD/MP3 etc etc player for my E ( and will ultimately need a monitor for it ) now you got me looking into subwoofers.

Damn, forgot about that one...was looking into it for a friend of mine for his jeep wrangler...he wanted a small sub but didn't have the room for one. He wound up going with an audiovox tube.

I like the clarion, slightly more power, larger woofer, ported enclosure.

I miss the basslink I had in the RSX. Had two 12" type-r's before that (actually still sitting in my living room) but they were too much. If I can find something that sounds like the basslink I'll be set.

I was originally going to get the Basslink T before doing this mod.
From what it measures it should tuck nicely against the back of the rear seats without taking up much room at all and since it stretches the full width of the cargo area there's less chance of sliding. Plus the 3 silver trimmed speakers remind me of the instrument panel.


http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2004/108/h108BASSLT-f.jpeg


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wxzlwc4Y1ZF/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&I=108BASSLT

Empire,

Your custom box looks awesome. You kickass at those custom mods. I have heard your sub at the meet, but to be honest I was disapointed in its sound output. I found it to sound bottomed out with little bass. I know the hatch was open, and that would kill all of the bass-roll. I guess my feeling was that it wasn't much if anything above stock.

I read another thread on here where someone had put alot more power to some sub in the factory location and had some issues with dash-rattle, which I suspect will be a problem with anyone that actually comes up with a good output solution for the factory stealthy looking sub. If I had the money to spend on a sub upgrade in my element, I think i'd go for the conventional subbox, but perhaps have the amp mounted to it, and come up with a way to quick-disconnect it for times when I would need the space and leave the subs at home.

Again, looks awesome though!

I know what you mean. I noticed also that when listening to it mounted in the rear with the hatch open it dulls the output considerably and infact it seemed to perform slightly better from under the rear seat. But from inside with everything closed and especially now with it mounted up front it's performance has magnified from how it previously sounded. It won't ever compete with a traditional gut buster sub box but it does a great job of delivering from up front. Crutchfield's review gives good examples of it compared to other applications.
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/reviews/20040413/bass_reviews.html
We'll try to meet up again and let you have another stab at it.

Maybe Brendan will bring his El Debarge box set and we'll all feel the beat of the rythm of the night.:lol:

Sweet. Can't wait to hear it. Though you know if it sounds much better then stock I'll be at your doorstep with the parts and such :-D


You going to be at the next Virginia meet if/when it happens?

Yeah I think I'm going to try and make it.

Sort of a maybe at the moment but I'd like to show up.

Looks like these might fit under the front seats. Two of these plus factory sub, prob sound real good.

Nah, I doubt they'd fit under the front seat unless some serious gutting was done. But under the rear seats you have plenty of room.
Now that Clarion sub might fit under the fronts, still a tight fit but it's much thinner than the Kenwood at about half the thickness. The Kenwood is sort of pill shaped where the Clarion is a like a text book.

That's the one I was talking about, sorry for my response that was as clear as mud.

Thats so cool. How do you work with plastic like that?

I would make a shelf on top. That way people can mound MP3 players and such. You could make some serious cash with them.

It's just bolting 2 plastic items together and using Bondo to form a contoured transition where the 2 parts join. Fiberglass can be used pretty much the same way. It's the sanding and paint that give it the plastic look. Practically everthing behind the front section of the sub's face is really pink underneath. Within the next week or so I'll be doing a similar mod probably using wood and plastic for an additional passenger side 6" LCD display mounted in the shelf above the glove compartment.

I dunno.. it kinda makes the dash look like a cheap Magnavox boombox with oversized speakers. I'm sure it sounds splendid, but isn't it possible to go with a more discreet look?

I really didn't design it to be discreet. I wanted the speakers to be visible otherwise I would have covered them. The stock sub tucks close under the console and noone really takes notice, which in some ways is a good thing. But with the shape of this extending out from the lower half of the dash as much as it does, it would be kind of stupid to fully enclose it. Which would really only add to it's mass making it less "discreet" than it is now. I would imagine doing so would also bring an onslaught of, "What's the big ass hump for?"
If the powered sub unit was smaller I would have most definitely hidden it behind the stock sub cover. But with this being the only model I had on hand I figured I'd let it be seen. Besides, a couple of 6" speakers aren't all that gawdy. Be glad I didn't mount a couple of these Bazooka tubes between the seats.




http://img127.exs.cx/img127/6051/157m8tw.jpg

Be glad I didn't mount a couple of these Bazooka tubes between the seats.

hahaha....god I hate those. they are so stupid.

Just an update since I've had a few people asking me about this sub they've seen in pics recently. Not long ago I noticed a very small section toward the back looked as if the Bondo had seperated slightly from the plastic. Remembering that I didn't score the plastic surface as well as I should have and fearing that eventually the rest of the bondo might begin to seperate I decided to chip it all off! :twisted: So I started the project over to make sure I wouldn't have to worry about it later. I used a box cutter and did some major crosshatch scoring all over the plastic surfaces and on the remaining Bondo along the edges of the actual Kenwood enclosure. I also drilled many many small holes over the surface I was going to reBondo to give it more of a finger like grip. Instead of reusing the standard pink Bondo I decided to try the green Bondo which is made for and includes fiberglass strands thru-out the goop and allows more flexing without cracking. I noticed it was alot easier to work with than the pink and sanded easier also. So once I finished applying the green Bondo, adding a beefier contour along the top surface where it meets the dash and finally sanding smooth I was ready for paint. I painted it black as I did before but decided to add some texture to the surface. I came across a can of undercoating rubberized spray and tried it out on the outside and inside surfaces. Not only is it black and fills in tiny imperfections (pits and scratches) in the finish but it gives a nice rubbery feel to the surface. Plus the texture is a very close match to that of the stock dash panels. The undercoating spray was also advertised as providing a sound deadening effect and that it helps eliminate vibration. After the sub was back installed I actually did notice a difference in the amount of vibration felt along the sides of the enclosure and what used to be felt thru the dash. So here's some recent pics of the subwoofer in place.


http://img46.exs.cx/img46/3618/w18lp.jpg

http://img46.exs.cx/img46/1842/w21do.jpg

http://img46.exs.cx/img46/7761/w30ev.jpg

http://img46.exs.cx/img46/8366/w45or.jpg

http://img46.exs.cx/img46/652/w56xw.jpg

Always impressive, man.

Looks awesome Empire. I'd love to see 'progress' pictures, if not this time, next time you do a project like that.

Next time you come up through Charles County, hit me up. I wanna hear how that sounds in the factory location.

I really meant to take some shots of it with the greenish-brown Bondo caked all over it. Nice and ugly like Swamp Thing took a dump on it.:-o But I was in a hurry to finish it over a weekend while in the middle of other stuff. I'm just glad the rubberized undercoating spray came out as well as it did. I knew if it didn't I'd spend another several hours sanding it all off and repainting. It's good stuff and I have plenty leftover to use any other projects that might call for it.

Wow. That looks really great. I just ordered some replacements speakers and an amp and was wondering what I was gonna do about the sub. This definitely sparked my imagination. Thanks!

Bringing this one back from the dead...


Has anyone tried/considered having a pocket for this sub sewn to the bottom of one of the rear seat? Maybe a pocket with mesh material similar to the passenger-seatback?

How hot does this thing get?

*bumping this back from the dead again* Empire, you still around these parts? Looking to add a sub to my LX system, how'd you wire it in?

Back in the day we had Aura Bassshakers you can still get them from parts express.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=299-028

Snapper