04-13-2003, 03:30 AM
As has been observed, when you open the doors to flood your campsite/beach with tunes, you will hear beep - beep - beep... along with the music. Not very useful.
My dealer pointed out to me that if you turn the key one more click (RUN?) It will beep six times slowly, then stop. It works great!
Does anyone know if leaving the key in the RUN position can do any damage to the engine elctrical like it can with an older car?
Good question. In the old days, it was conventional wisdom that it was very bad to do this, and I wouldn't be too surprised to find out that it is still not recommended. When you have the key in run mode, all of the electrical systems are running as if you were driving, i.e.; fuel system, ventilation, engine electronics, etc.. Even if no outright damage were to occur, it will certainly be more of a drain on the battery.
Why not position your E so you can have the passenger side and/or the rear hatch-tailgate be open, as the beeping only occurs with the drivers side door(s) open.
04-14-2003, 02:06 AM
jdef, good point. I think the complaint (that I saw expressed on another board, so out of courtesy I won't post a link) was that a Honda commercial shows a wide-open E in the middle of a beach party with the radio blasting. The original poster complained that this is physically impossible and no-one had corrected him, so I made a point to ask my dealer about it.
I'd still like to know (out of curiosity more than a desire to use the feature) if this is still a bad practice in the age of computer-controlled cars.
jdef, your point about the increased battery drain is a good one. Another poster discovered that the radio can run the E dead in as little as 30-45 minutes (!!) and I wonder now if that person was keeping the ignition turned to RUN.
04-15-2003, 07:18 AM
That was me - and the ignition was not in RUN. :D
04-15-2003, 07:54 AM
in my experience the proplem associated with having a vehicle ignition left in 'run' was that it would burn the points in the inition system...
with the advent of electronic ignition i was told that this was no longer a problem as the points and condensor were replaced with an electronic ignition module.
does anyone know of any additional problems, other then the obvious battery drain issue, with this scenario ?
i am now carrying around a 300A dry cell booster pack for accessory electrical needs. i charge it from a 120W invertor plugged into the rear outlet. i had planned on boosting this but the stock alternator only supplies 105A ( pilot and odessy are both rated to 135 but replacing will void my warranty ). i was given a electrical printout of wiring/fuses and it seems both outlets have a max combined pull of 120W. all supplemental electrical needs must be meet using these figures to avoid loosing warranty.
my eventual plan is to combine two higher rated booster packs and charge them separately...