Well... the beeping finally got to me so I decided to set off on the journey of disabling the damn sound...

First I took off the steering assembly and almost took off the meter panels in search of the beep when I thought I'd just bypass that and go directly to the source...

Now, we all know that we can disable the sound by simply pushing in the sensor button located on the diver's side suicide door... I was thinking of finding out which wire led to where and installing a switch when I found the 1st solution to the problem... this is the easy one:

http://www.e-shen.com/element/side01.jpg
Step 1: Locate the sensor

http://www.e-shen.com/element/side02.jpg
Step 2: Flip up the cap

http://www.e-shen.com/element/side03.jpg
Step 3: Remove the screw

I think the screw grounds the connection so with the screw removed, the beeper doesn't sound anymore. I always carry a screwdriver in the car anyway, so if a party broke out, I could remove the screw in a minute.


Here's another way that I did:

http://www.e-shen.com/element/switch01.jpg
Step 1: Open the suicide door on the driver's side and pull up the rubber protector, locate the green wire and snip it

http://www.e-shen.com/element/switch02.jpg
Step 2: After snipping the wire, strip the ends and crimp on some 2" wires (I can't remember which kind I used, it was from a spool of leftover wire from other projects).

http://www.e-shen.com/element/switch03.jpg
Step 3: After crimping on the other wires, pass it through the black rubber protector (you need to cut a small hole in it) and solder the ends to a small switch (again, a leftover switch from another project... this was from Radio Shack, a SPDT Mini Switch)

http://www.e-shen.com/element/switch04.jpg
Step 4: Viola, secrure the switch any way you want to and now you can disable the beeping at a moment's notice! (Just remember to turn it back on after the party is over!) (And I know it's not the best looking method, but hey, it works!)

Total time: 10 minutes (well, after I tore apart and put back the steering and meter assemblies)

Hope this helps!

oh yea, someone mentioned that you could also replace the screw with a plastic screw and you won't ever hear the beep again...

i didn't do it that way since i'd like to have the beeping there... just disabled for awhile while i got my groove on... :wink:

Great job and photos identifying the correct wire.

I keep checking this thread waiting for someone to identify where the wire goes to up front so that I can mount the switch in a more convenient location (console,dash, armrest etc.). I may have to do it myself.

I wish that there was an on line wiring diagram available.

Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :P

Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :P

I think someone on another site explained that in the ON (II) position, you'll draw somewhere between 8 - 25 amps from your battery, but in ACC (I), it only draws 5 amps...

interesting...and good to know! :wink:

I think someone on another site explained that in the ON (II) position, you'll draw somewhere between 8 - 25 amps from your battery, but in ACC (I), it only draws 5 amps...

Hmmm...what is it that's supposedly drawing all this current? I mean, if your headlights and fan/AC are off, what could possibly be eating this much power (that can't be turned off)?

Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :PI think someone on another site explained that in the ON (II) position, you'll draw somewhere between 8 - 25 amps from your battery, but in ACC (I), it only draws 5 amps...

I agree. Power has to be consumed in some way... If we are losing 8-25 amps (or actually any amount) without knowing where it is going... we got us a problem!

Hmmm...what is it that's supposedly drawing all this current? I mean, if your headlights and fan/AC are off, what could possibly be eating this much power (that can't be turned off)?

You're actually running the entire ignition system with the switch in the ON position.

As to what is turned on in position 2: Any subsystem that the car needs for the engine to run. Cause remember, after the engine turns over it rolls back into position 2, there's no position 3. I know that's not technical at all but it makes sense.

i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....

i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....

That doesn't make sense. The key is in the same position when the engine is running. If the starter was getting juice from the key being in that position, it would get it all the time you're driving around. Actually, the only time the starter gets electricity is when you've got the key in "Start", which engages the starter solonoid.

However, when the key is in "Run" (the position that doesn't chime), all the rest of the engine ignition system is powered up. It's isn't necessarily bad for the engine, but it does increase the load on the battery.

Folks,

Its quite simple ....... when your key is in position ACC II, your fuel pump, fuel injectors, sensors (O2, Mass air flow, Oil presure..), ECU, etc... are all turned on.

ACC I simply provides power to simple accessories such as radio, radio accessories, and power outlets

I hope this clears things up.

-Nick

I appreciate the research you put forth to locate and isolate how to disable the beep. The photo's were good too! I got out my stethescope and tried to listen under the dash to see where the sound was coming from and I couldn't pin point it at all. I do like the method of just putting a plastic screw in place of the metal one. All I want to do is shut off the beep, keep the door lights working and listen to my sounds in peace. I too may want to place a switch on the dash for on capabilities later but until then the Element gets Unscrewed. [/img]

I am going to leave mine enabled because I am a dope. I locked my keys in my Civic TWICE in one week and I was no where near where my spares would have been practical to get.

What they say about it being almost impossible to break into a Honda. Well, it's true. Took AAA 4 hours the first time, and 3 the second.

I use the passenger side as my entry side when parked anyway.

What happens to the front dome light when you remove the screw. Goes out right?

I've got an even cheaper way of doing this.
take out the screw as he showed us before and get some electrical tape.
push the screw through the tape and insert it back through the hole.
No more beep!!
the tape acts as an insulator.
Oh, bye the way......
Dont leave your keys in the car.
thats what the beep is for

The pictures prove one thing, you are satisfied with a shabby looking job. Get rid of the tape and put a switch on the inside of the rear door and make it a neat looking job, to match the Element.

i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....

Folks, here's the deal. Once the engine is turned on, it no longer needs to use the battery as much as you would normally use. I've talked to my dad's friend about this. He is a owner of a garage that my dad goes to all the time. He told me that once the engine engaged, it produces its only power. For example, the A/C. Normally with the engine running, the A/C does not need any energy from the battery because the engine provides the energy needed to run it. however, with the key in the on position without the engine running, the A/C gets the power from another source that we all have come to know as the battery. Pretty much what i've been told is that there is a power generator device run by the engine.

I took the screw out, made a paper washer and in it went.
Everything seems to be fine.
No key alarm, but I never lock my keys in........anymore :roll:

i've asked around about leaving in the run position. apparently, yes the ignition system gets juice, as does the starter, and could lead to a burnt out starter....
Folks, here's the deal. Once the engine is turned on, it no longer needs to use the battery as much as you would normally use. I've talked to my dad's friend about this. He is a owner of a garage that my dad goes to all the time. He told me that once the engine engaged, it produces its only power. For example, the A/C. Normally with the engine running, the A/C does not need any energy from the battery because the engine provides the energy needed to run it. however, with the key in the on position without the engine running, the A/C gets the power from another source that we all have come to know as the battery. Pretty much what i've been told is that there is a power generator device run by the engine.

That power generator is your alternator.

The A/C does not run if your engine is not running, your fan might but that's it. Your A/C compressor is driven by a belt off the engine, but again, only when the engine is running.

Hey, I really like the low tech posting showing the woodworking clamp to silence the bloody beeping. Now that is smart logic at a realistic cost. Thanks Folks :grin:

If I go with plastic screw, does the door open sign on the guage still come on?

Just look for the connector under the dash on the right side of the steering wheel with 4 wires going into it and unplug it, just don't touch any YELLOW plugs like I did!

SH

The Higher current draw comes from running all the computers on the E in the II position. They are all active in II but not in the I position. Hope this helps.

Um...instead of cutting wires, why don't you just turn your key to the 2nd ignition setting. It will beep about 10 times and then stop. That's what I do. :P


Uhm, yeah, me too. Man you folks are creative (and ballsy too... cuttin' wires and rippin' things out :) )

Sort of restores my faith in creative out of the box, "damn the torpedoes", thinking though.

on my dodge dakota you simply had to remove a little black box on the fuse block
and no sound instant fix 200.000 miles ago still ticking
might not be the same but i will check my e for the same :shock:


Same for a 2001 FORD Econoline van. Though when you look at the size of the thing you are pretty dumbfounded ---- all this for a door chime? you gotta be kidding.

Ckt 200 Tailgate Sw Red wire
Ckt 201 Pass Door Sw Gry/Blk
Ckt 202 Driver Door Sw Grn
Ckt 203 Rear Door Sw(s) Grn/Wht

All go to a connector located 'under middle of dash. The connector look to be behind the heater controls.

C454 connector-pin #12 is 203,10 is 201,11 is 202,5 is 200.Oh yeah, C454 is white but so is 453 so look art the wires going to those terminal numbers.

Another method (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/door_beep.htm)

Has anybody thought of just running a constant power source to the radio? It seems that might solve the problem.

Has anybody thought of just running a constant power source to the radio? It seems that might solve the problem.
Would be more work than disabling the beeper, but offers the benefit of running the radio without having to leave the key in the ignition. A switch would be nice here: normal mode = ign. off, radio off, no forgetting and killing the battery; DJ mode = radio works without ign., but don't forget and leave the radio on overnight.

RAMBLERDAN,
Yes, unfortunately you cannot just turn the radio off. I would like to find the switched feed to the radio to try this. I enjoyed reading through your website especially the AMC reference. My dad was a Rambler man in his day and we always had a Hornet back in the 70s. You just can't beat vacuum wipers in a driving rainstorm going uphill!

Originally Posted by midland98
Has anybody thought of just running a constant power source to the radio? It seems that might solve the problem.

In my previous car, I did just that, called it "the girlfriend switch" (as in: She's still trying on shoes, and I'm out in the car waiting).

I ran a direct positive line to the stereo from the fusebox, through an inline switch on the dash, and connected it directly to the key-switched positive line at the back of the stereo. I put a diode in each line so they wouldn't feed back into each other. (The diode part is easier than it sounds, all it does is only allow power to go in one direction. So you just put it inline with your wire, and cover it with tape or shrink tube. Diodes are cheap as well.)

This way, the stereo functions perfectly normally with the key, except when you want to park and play, and then you use the switch to feed power to it.

A lighted switch in a conspicuous position will help remind you that the stereo's on. You could also put a bright LED indicator in the dash next to the stereo, or in the driver's door. If you use a one-way LED, it can also serve as the diode for that line.

Older Volvo's had nice lighted rocker switches, which are penny a pound at most wreckers. Other brands probably did as well, hit your local pick and pull and shop for styles. Most of them snap out of the dash.

It's an easy mod; in fact, if you had the materials along, or are parked near a Radio Shack, you could do it the next time she goes into shoe frenzy....&^)

Remember to check your diodes for polarity and test both lines before putting your dash back together. And remember, gentlemen prefer soldered connections...&^)

I was going to install the switch mod using RamblerDan's instructions. My only question is, what size wire did you use for the splice? I went under the dash expecting to see wire, not angel hair pasta. I guess it's been a while since I've played with wiring under the dash.

You can power the radio from a separate 12v battery pack by just plugging a feed into the forward 12v power outlet. The radio and that outlet are on the same side of the switch and fuse. I constructed a 12v extension cord with male plugs at both ends to do just that. Admittedly I did it more out of curiosity than need; I'm not in the habit of sharing my music with camping neighbors.

paulj

what size wire did you use for the splice?
No reason to use wire much thicker than what you're splicing into. Current draw is low, since you're only deactivating a logic circuit that controls the beeper and dome light.

Angel hair pasta—indeed!

I hope that none of you who have tried this mod have an alarm because if so someone could easly break into your E and your alarm would never go off.

Those clamps are not so great for that switch. The spring is very agressive and the jaws bairly get to the switch thus mashing it sideways. I will neet to get a new switch. Apparently this busted switch has affected my electrical system alarms.:|

Thanks for the photos....but instead of removing that screw, you can just loosen it 3-5 turns, still leave it in place (not lose it), close the dust protector and...voila...no more freeking beep........but where is the unit causing the beep ( and seatbelt beep)? looked all up inside...removed fuse switches thinking they may be the culprit.....cannot find it. Need repair manual I guess. RT

OK y'all I Know where the little pesky beeper is.

Heres your culprit!
http://www.jsbphotos.com/Images/element/IMG_1535.JPG

NOTE This cluster is to a 2007 E and I'm not sure what the older E's are like.

Now I like the beep to be there but not at the annoying level Honda set's it at. So I will show you how to tone it down a bit to make it tolerable.:D

Remove the cluster if you feel comfortable doing this.

Then carefully remove the back cover of the instrument cluster by lifting the lock tabs around the edge of the unit.

http://www.jsbphotos.com/Images/element/IMG_1537.JPG

This is the beeper (Piezo Element in a Acoustical plastic can) The hole is where the sound is emitted.
http://www.jsbphotos.com/Images/element/IMG_1539.JPG

I covered mine with a piece of paper and glue. this will tone it down by half but you can go more extreme by squeezing RTV silicone in the hole but that cannot be undone!
http://www.jsbphotos.com/Images/element/IMG_1540.JPG

Warning! The little gray modules that are on the circuit board are the motor that drive the gauge needles. DO NOT try to pull the board from the gauge cluster or the needles will fall off and you will have to remove the front clear cover and reseat the needles which if you don't seat correctly your fuel, speed tach etc. could be off.

Thats all I have for now, hope this was helpfull.

OK y'all I Know where the little pesky beeper is.

Heres your culprit!

Thats all I have for now, hope this was helpfull.

Bravo fellow brother of the Element. :lol:

Shen's switch idea isnt a bad one IMO. I did it yesterday. It's nice to turn it off when you need it to be. Considering the switch itself cost less than five dollars its a bit more convenient than leaving a screwdriver in the glove box.

I rigged mine up the other day, but I'll be going back to the beep. All that needs to be done is back the crew out a turn or 2 and the beep will go away. I'm going back to the beep b/c that door pin switch is also the same one that beeps when headlights are left on....and keys in the ignition.

I'll either throw a screwdriver in the back or buy one of those clamps posted in this thread.

Great resolution and detail PMH; but does anyone know how to get to the back of the instrument panel on an 05? The back shell does not seperate like the 07 cluster assembly in PMH's post.

Great resolution and detail PMH; but does anyone know how to get to the back of the instrument panel on an 05? The back shell does not separate like the 07 cluster assembly in PMH's post.

Bummer dude! I was wondering if there would be a major change through the years.

I do know that you may want to check if the Annunciator is mounted inside the Fuse panel. They used to put it there in the 90's at least thats where I found it in my Del sol.

Thanks for the reply PMH - I did confirm that the screaming beeper is on the back side of the cluster board by pulling the cluster and making it scream - sure 'nuff, pretty much where yours is. However, where you can unsnap the board from the back, mine is screwed to the backing and I could access 6 screws but the ones under the speedo require removing the needles and then removing the dials, etc. - I stopped there because I didn't wanna risk messing up the needles and or worse, breaking them. So, I will continue to go with my own little rig/fix for the screaming beeper - when I want to have my driver's side doors open and listen to tunes, I simply take my mini-maglight from my glove box and insert it between the switch and the strike on the suicide door and voila! Maybe I should post a pic. Thanks again Dude!Bummer dude! I was wondering if there would be a major change through the years.

I do know that you may want to check if the Annunciator is mounted inside the Fuse panel. They used to put it there in the 90's at least thats where I found it in my Del sol.

So, I will continue to go with my own little rig/fix for the screaming beeper - when I want to have my driver's side doors open and listen to tunes, I simply take my mini-maglight from my glove box and insert it between the switch and the strike on the suicide door and voila! Maybe I should post a pic.

I'd love to see a pic of this! Thanks!!

I'd love to see a pic of this! Thanks!!

Here ya go DESERTSAND! It takes a couple of tries to figure out the sweet spot, but beyond that, PROBLEM SOLVED! Now, when I'm detailing, loading bikes/gear or just chillin', I have my tunes without the torture of that screaming beeper!

I have yet to accidentally close my front door without removing the Mini-Mag & I don't think I will because every time I open/close the rear door, my hand (& eyes) go to that spot. The contrast of the Mini-Mag’s silver against the red also helps.

Note the layer of electrical tape around the top end of the Mag-light; keeps it from scratching the paint. Also, the rubber boot that covers the switch does get a little smushed in by the Mini-Mag but as long as you are gentle with the insertion, she'll be fine - this isn't an every day thing either...

Why did I give up on the other fix suggestions and go MacGyver on this project? Well, I was experimenting with all the suggested fixes one night around 11pm. I decided to try removing the screw/ground. Because that method disables the many of the built in safety/convenience functions of that door switch, I ended up locking my E-keys, house keys, cell phone AND wallet in the car!!!! (Had to bother a neighbor at midnite to call a service truck)! After that, it was a MacGyver fix or nothing & this is what I came up with...

I think this is the easiest (& safest) fix to this problem – no switches, no screws, no rewiring and no clamps - a quick reach into my arm rest for my Mini-Mag, pop it in place & it's done. Everyone should already have a Mini-Mag in their vehicle anyway - one of those great "sliced bread" types of products…

What do you think?

I've had that switch in for a few weeks now. It doesn't seem to get in the way and it was well worth the 10 minutes and 2 dollars for the switch (given you already have a soldering iron handy you won't have to spend any more money). Anytime, just swing open the rear door and it's there ready to go at any time.

Well, i went the way of Ramblerdan, and i have to say i like it very much. I found a great momentary switch and relay at Radioshack (switch model: 275-644). Other than being gloss black instead of matte it looks like OE; if you didn't know it wasn't supposed to be there, you'd never notice. The install was cake even for someone inexperienced like me and the result is exactly what i was looking for: kills the freaking beep when i want to, but lets it function normally all other times.

If anyone wants details, let me know.

Mini Mag is geniuis Rally! I also went through the "screw removal" and attempting to fin the beep... broke a couple plastic clips and abandoned.

Flashlight is simple, and multipurpose :-) As a good mod should be.

Larkin

Hello all, been lurking for a minute and bought my Element last week.

I had a thought about killing the door chime so you can blast the radio with the doors open. (Though, if you can hear the chime you're probably just not rockin' loud enough:D )

My first car was a 1984 Volvo 240. I remembered the other day that it had a very cool feature built into the door switch/button. You could push the button in and twist it to the right and it would be locked in the closed position. It would stay locked until you unlocked it by simply twisting it back to the left.

It occurred to me that this would be perfect for the E. Shouldn't be too hard to source this type of switch and mod it in.

The door chime doesn't bother me at all; roll down your window and/or turn up the stereo I say. But seeing the number of folks trying so hard to have control over the door chime, I thought I'd throw this out there as an approach not yet explored.

just thought I'd throw that out there.....:cool:

...this is simply a replacement of the existing door switch with a "lockable" one; no extraneous wiring or extra switches or having to keep clamps, screwdrivers, duct tape etc. on hand ... I thought I'd throw this out there as an approach not yet explored.
Nice idea. If anyone can source such a switch and fit it to the Element's door, it would be worth a how-to.

I have tried the low tech approch for the door alarm. I still have to have the drivers side door closed. What am I missing? I looked for other switches but found none. My E is an 08 EX AWD. Anybody have suggestions??? Thanks

John

Well... the beeping finally got to me so I decided to set off on the journey of disabling the damn sound...

[snip]

Total time: 10 minutes (well, after I tore apart and put back the steering and meter assemblies)

Hope this helps!



you sir, are truly a god among men.


you are the savior of my element, for I was about to send it off a cliff after I light it on fire in hopes of killing that dreadful beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbeep .beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbee p.beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbe ep.beepbeepbeepbeep.beepbeepbeepbeep.







good lord that is the MOST annoying door dinger ive heard out of 20+ vehicles ive owned



THANKS AGIAN

"I hope that none of you who have tried this mod have an alarm because if so someone could easly break into your E and your alarm would never go off."

That is easily remedied w/ a shock sensor that most alarms have. Once the car is jiggled, it will go off. Adjust sensitivity as needed.

Hey guys I didn't do much searching but the only thread I saw with a solution involved wires and crap. Not sure if anybody else has tried this but I've been using it for thousands of miles with no problems.

All I did was remove the screw grounding the door buzzer and replaced it with a small plastic wall ancor. You guys should know what I'm talking about. Those little plastic cone shaped things that expand in the wall to keep your screws from pulling through.

So like stated. I just replaced the metal screw with the plastic piece. Closed the flap and it looks completely stock. Viola. And no problems. It may have been done before just wanted to let anybody know in case it hasn't been thought of even though it's the most simple solution lol. Anyway.

Cool, cheap and doesn't get any easier than that. Thanks!!!

My thoughts exactly. It was actually the first thing I came across in my garage to replace the screw haha. And not a problem. Here to help when possible. Which is not often.

quick and easy :)

Related thread (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20502)

Note that one owner reported locking his keys in the car using this method.

Well I cannot help other owners stupidity. Why would you be closing a locked door with out your keys in your hand? Do all E's not have the key fob to lock the door? Still say my method or the nylon screw is the easiest and non permanent fix.

Way to go adding this to someone elses post. Woulda added a comment to this one had I intended it for that. Maybe others like myself don't want to read through pages of crap before getting to the option they decide.

No need for a new thread about an old question—and answer. Also, it belongs in the DIY forum.

Do all E's not have the key fob to lock the door?
Actually, no. But the problem mentioned above would only occur if the car had been unlocked with the remote.

Why would you be closing a locked door with out your keys in your hand?
With the door switch disabled, the computer doesn't know a door was ever opened, and after a set time it will relock itself. If the owner leaves the keys inside what is for the moment an unlocked car ... oops. Granted, for this to occur, the driver would have to fail to read and understand the section of the owner's manual that explains how the system operates.

Maybe others like myself don't want to read through pages of crap before getting to the option they decide.
Again, that fix is mentioned in post #2 of this thread. Also in post #1 here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27839), post #1 here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25066), and post #7 here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=71245).

Did not have a switch handy so I pulled off the rubber boot on the back door and installed a wire connector (male/female) inline on the green wire with silver tag. I don't need to play the radio very often with the doors open so this option is hidden, no visable switch and the mod is protected from the elements.

Those of you locking your keys in the car.... have a non coded key cut and secure outside. I screw mine to the back side of the lic plate using the same mounting screw. If someone fids it, they only gain access, not drivability..

I am surprised you guys seems to miss the easiest and Cheapest method yet,

1. Unscrew plug

2. Fashion washer out of non-conductive material

3. Insert washer on to screw

4. Re-assemble

5. Enjoy "Cookie", beer and music with out annoying beep

Time: 5 min, cost: 2 cent

No, soldering, No splicing, no god-awful Tape on your beloved E

K.I.S.S

Ah, that method is mentioned in posts #1 and #2 of this thread. It has drawbacks.

all ways the party pooper LOL

Ah, that method is mentioned in posts #1 and #2 of this thread. It has drawbacks.

It works for me, I am OCD about never leaving my key's in the car. And my Glasses being clean, The bezel on my watch being straight, my hamster's running in unison...I need meds :-(

It works for me, I am OCD about never leaving my key's in the car. And my Glasses being clean, The bezel on my watch being straight, my hamster's running in unison...I need meds :-(

good for you.

you didn't mention remembering to turn off headlights when leaving the vehicle, but it's probably on your list.
some folks have been know to leave their headlights on if they don't hear a beep.
(a smaller number of folks hear a beep and can't figure out what it's for. we don't hear/read much from them on this forum.)
<grin>

good for you.

you didn't mention remembering to turn off headlights when leaving the vehicle, but it's probably on your list.
some folks have been know to leave their headlights on if they don't hear a beep.
(a smaller number of folks hear a beep and can't figure out what it's for. we don't hear/read much from them on this forum.)
<grin>

I would imagine they're still working on that whole letter's into words thing.:rolleyes:

Word of caution for the MAGLITE method.......................I used to do something similar on another car i used to have.............

and everything works cool, that is until your in a hurry to go some where and in a rush you slam the door, most likely putting a dent in one or both of your doors, or a good scratch at the least........

and you say "well i'd never do something that stupid", never thought I would either

so....after reading this entire thread... hasn't ANYONE found the little chimer thingo hidden in the depths of the E and simply unplugged the chimer?

i mean, disabling the door screw thingo seems easiest, sure, but doesn't that also affect the dome light? and what if the door isn't properly closed and you make a hard right turn without your seatbelt? you'll never know what hit'cha when you fall out. ;)

seriously though.. and info on where the chimer is located at (with pics plz)?

thanks!

> hasn't ANYONE found the little chimer thingo hidden in the depths of the E and simply unplugged the chimer?
Poor_Mans_Hummer did that (post #40) on an '07, but AFAIK no one has succeeded in disabling the beeper in a 2003-06 Element. But that would also kill the chime that warns you that you've left the headlights on.

> doesn't [removing the screw or using a nonconductive screw] also affect the dome light?
Yes. It will also allow you to lock your keys in the car.

Wiring up a switch is probably easier than hacking the gauge cluster anyway.

....But that would also kill the chime that warns you that you've left the headlights on...

i just discovered that to be the case even when unscrewing the bolt on the door. i ALMOST left the lights on, but happened to glance back and saw they were still on after i'd left the element.

soooo...after having pulled the door button thingo and simply unconnecting it for the last 5 or so months...i've left my lights on twice (luckily not long enough to kill the battery) and have become increasingly annoyed that the dome light doesn't come on when you open the driver side door...

soooo....i just fished the wire from outta the door with a handy-dandy extra special tool designed for fishing stuff like that outta doors (a bent up paper clip) and reconnected it.

now i've got that super annoying door ajar beep again (when i'm trying to annoy my neighbors while listening to loud music while doing stuff with the doors open)

HOWEVER... i would like to know if the chimer for the "you left your lights on, dummy" is the same chimer for the "your door is open and your keys are in the ignition...i'm reminding you, even though i'm pretty sure you already knew that" warning.

does anyone know? it SOUNDS like the chimes (tho different tones) are eminating from the same location.

i MUST find a way to eliminate the door-chime while keeping the dome light and the headlight-chime. there's GOTTA be a way! *maniacal laughter*

i may just resort to installing an inline switch in the wiring at the suicide door that way "when a partay breaks out," i'll be good to go! :D

The same device makes the tones for door-ajar and headlights-on. A toggle switch in the door, in series with the stock plunger switch, will work. Someone reported that method early on.

I found a compromise method that's a variation of the original Shin mod, sans the switch hanging out.

Install a NO/NC magnetic reed switch http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_617529_-1 inside the door's wiring boot. Slip a piece of shrink tubing over the glass capsule to help protect it.

To "open" the switch use a magnet like this http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-rare-earth-magnets-67488.html or this http://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-ring-65535.html

When the magnet isn't being used to disable the beeper, store it on the metal surround of the rear passenger door window.

PS: A SPST surface mounted magnetic door switch has the same type of switch capsule inside it.