If I were to instal the EX stock subwoofer in my LX (with aftermarket HU), am I limited in what amp I use? What other OEM parts would I need?

These are pics of the sub. Can anybody help me?
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/6797/2836it.th.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2836it.jpg)http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/5066/8737gd.th.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=8737gd.jpg)
Click thumbs for larger pics.

Hey GordoSan,

You prolly wouldn't need anything other than a HU with pre-amp outs and an amp that could power the sub w/o blowing it. Anyone know the rating on the stock sub?

The stock sub is DVC so you can wire it in parallel and mono your amp to get the most power from the amp (that's how the stock ex system is set-up) just make sure your amp can handle 2 ohms. This parallel config will only result in 2 ohms if the individual coils are 4 ohms to begin with (on the stock sub I'm not sure if they are 4 ohms;may be lower or higher).

OTH, you could just wire each coil separately in stereo to get lower power.

Thx, Phil

Thanks for the info! When I first posted this, I wasn't sure if it would work at a price that would make it worthwhile. Since then, I had to make a decision to buy the sub, or not. I bought it. I guess that I've got a little project ahead. I've never installed a subwoofer in a car, but I've got the gist.

I bought this sub for $41 plus shipping. It also seems that I probably have to shell out $35 for the cover. I just wonder if I can make this happen cheap. I can just buy one of those flat Kenwoods for $190 (shipped) and put it under the seat. So if it approaches that price, I might as well just sell the sub to someone else.

Before I get this thing in the mail, does anybody think that this is not worth it? I need my space, because I travel a lot. Its either this, or something that can fit under the seat. Anyone know if that Kenwood fits under the seat?

Crickets again. Oh well. I might just sell this sucker as soon as I get it. I don't have much time now before I start traveling.

Good luck. Check with Empire - I believe he fitted a Kenwood amplified sub under his rear seat.

Good luck. Check with Empire - I believe he fitted a Kenwood amplified sub under his rear seat.
To the best of my knowledge, Empire chose that 10" Keenwood sub that is more boxlike and put it in the cargo area. I know that he did have the older version of that flatter sub fitted to a lower DX console / cover / pocket. I think he blew that one.

OK, I've decided to install the EX sub, afterall. I've got the cover on order, and I've got an amp. Does anybody know how to hook up the aftermarket amp to that 4-prong plug, attached to the sub? I really don't want to cut it off. Couldn't I get a conector for the plug? Where would I find such a thing?

If i remember correctly its a dual voice coil 'sub' which would explain the four prongs. I don't know what the impedance is, but search google for dual voice coil wiring options and make sure the impedance of your amp matches the speaker and the rms power ratings are close.

If i remember correctly its a dual voice coil 'sub' which would explain the four prongs. I don't know what the impedance is, but search google for dual voice coil wiring options and make sure the impedance of your amp matches the speaker and the rms power ratings are close.

The amp is a Velocity Blaupunkt V250. It is rated 2x50 Watts @ 4 OHMS (Bridgeable) Does this sound OK?

what are the specs of the EX speaker?

This is what E-Mass said of the factory amp, in another thread:
The Honda amp puts out 270 watts PEAK (not RMS):

4 x 50 watts peak (reality is 18 RMS @ 4 Ohms stereo) for the door speakers
1 x 70 watts peak (reality is 40 RMS at 2 Ohms mono) for the dual voice coil subwoofer

So in reality it's a 112 watt system.

If that is the amp's rating, the sub must be comparable, or at least compatable. So, I'm figuring that my amp bridges into 2 OHMS @ 100 watts. That sounds like it might be OK, to me. I know that watts ratings in speakers means less than the actual amp RMS rating. If anything, it should be less distorted at a higher volume.

I'm still worried about that 4-prong plug. I asked the car audio guy at Best Buy, and he made it sound like I needed to talk to a Honda service person. Does anyone know if this is a standard item for car audio, or should I call Honda, afterall? In hindsight, I wish that I would have asked to speak to an installer, and shown him the actual plug.

Click on these to see them in detail. Click image again for full screen.
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/9697/img11896mz.th.jpg (http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img11896mz.jpg)http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/6505/img11879gu.th.jpg (http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img11879gu.jpg)

Let me know how this goes, I'm also interested in the upgrade.

If you want to spend another 65 dollars for a 7Kv.2, then read on:

Also, I suggest you remove the sub box and open it up. Put some silicone around the edges to get a good seal because the box is leaky. And if you want lower bass, get a 7Kv.2 from Elementaldesigns.com and plug the port of the sub box. I recently plugged the port and used a 1/2 spacer ring to gain some more volume inside and it sounds awesome. I just cut a piece of wood to the exact size of the port opening in the back and used LOTS of wood glue and silicone afterwards. I thought it wouldn't be sufficient in holding but it's on there rock steady. Barely even budges when playing some bass heavy songs. I greatly suggest it. Although, the surround of the sub is hitting the cover because of the spacer ring so, I might have to cut it up and used a 6" grill to give it some room to work.

What kind of spacer, 6 1/2 spacer?

This is what E-Mass said of the factory amp, in another thread:

If that is the amp's rating, the sub must be comparable, or at least compatable. So, I'm figuring that my amp bridges into 2 OHMS @ 100 watts. That sounds like it might be OK, to me. I know that watts ratings in speakers means less than the actual amp RMS rating. If anything, it should be less distorted at a higher volume.

I'm still worried about that 4-prong plug. I asked the car audio guy at Best Buy, and he made it sound like I needed to talk to a Honda service person. Does anyone know if this is a standard item for car audio, or should I call Honda, afterall? In hindsight, I wish that I would have asked to speak to an installer, and shown him the actual plug.

Click on these to see them in detail. Click image again for full screen.
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/9697/img11896mz.th.jpg (http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img11896mz.jpg)http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/6505/img11879gu.th.jpg (http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img11879gu.jpg)

That plug looks similar to the plug that provides power to the lighter socket and ashtray light on the 92-95 Civics. You could probably go to a junk yard and pick one up. Not 100% sure they are the same, but they look close...close enough that you may be able to make them work. Your other option would be using 4 small speaker terminal clips...like the ones used for connecting the negative terminal of most aftermarket speakers.