Well I have begun down the long road of a full A/V install. The vehicle is a 2007 RBM SC.

The components are as follows:
Pioneer AVIC-Z1 w/Bluetooth/Sirius/Ipod/Rear Cam units.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/division/demo/0,,2076_310069681,00.html#unit=AVIC%20Z1

Focal 165 V2S Component Set (Front doors)
http://www.focal-fr.com/accueil_en.htm

Cadence Component Set (Rear Fill when used)

Alpine PDX 1.1000 (1000 watt RMS mono block)
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=PDX-1.1000

Alpine PDX 4.150 (600 watt RMS 4 channel)
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=PDX-4.150

2 Kicker S10 L7's in ported enclosure. (When used)
http://www.kicker.com/06/kicker_home.html

Other mods will include: HID 8000K light kit, copper interior trim out, nose mask, side door trim.

I just picked up the car on Saturday (210 miles on the odometer) and have already removed the dash and center console to begin the install. I am taking pictures as I go and will have at least one in depth write up on everything.

The Z1 will go in the factory location. The amplifiers will be mounted into the center console. Speakers will be in factory locations with the exception of the Focal tweeters which I will mount just above the midbass drivers so you have a single source point (tweeters bouncing off the windshield glass are less than ideal). Depending on imaging quality, I may construct fiberglass enclosures for each door to mount the mid and tweet in order to direct them more towards the high center of the cabin. We will just have to wait and see how it sounds from the factory location.

The 1.1000 Alpine will be used to run the extra sub box when I have it in the car. I run with the subs about 20% of the time. The remaining 80% I will leave bass duties up to the stock 6.5 (until it blows) at which time I will replace with the JL 6W0.
The 4.150 Alpine will run the focal component set off of the front two channels. The 3/4 channels will be bridged to run the stock sub. I dont plan on thrashing the stock sub to death, just use it to add a little low end detail when the other subs arent in the car.
The rear Cadence components will be run off the stock head unit. They will only be active when I have rear seat passengers as often times running just the front set, the back becomes overwhelmed with bass. And before someone asks why I dont run rear fill all the time the answer is, have you ever been to a concert where the music was coming from behind you?
All 4 doors the hoodliner and the roof will be covered in dynamat. I MAY do the floor depending on how we are sounding once its all finished.
Both amplifiers will be mounted in the center console. The Alpines are BOTH class D and run cool to the touch even when pushed hard. Perfect for center console duty. The wiring all mounts through one side, with audio controls on the opposing side, also perfect for the center console.

I will start to post pics once I get deeper into it. This is just a teaser to get it started. Keep it shiny side up everyone!

Rodric

Cool stuff, Rodric! Do keep us informed.

As long as you're at it, spend $50 on a replacement for the factory subwoofer driver. One, the two amp channels bridged will be the wrong load for the stock sub. The stock sub has two 4 ohm voice coils. Assuming you run those in parallel, your amp will see a 1 ohm load which is not nice, especially for a driver you don't plan to pound. You could run the voice coils in series, which the bridged amp would see as a 4 ohm load. That would be better, but the best would be use an Elemental Designs new 7Kv.2 6.5" driver (replaces their Eu-700 - see this thread (http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=31288) from Elemental Designs' forum) with two 2 ohm voice coils, which when put in series, the amp would see as a 2 ohm load.

And this thread is moved to Mobile Electronics.

I'm going to second the eD sub. I had one in my car until i put 2 15's in. The elemental designs eu-700 is what i had (still have it though) and it was really quite amazing, especially for the price. There are a couple threads about it.
1 (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20951&highlight=elemental+designs) 2 (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20999&highlight=elemental+designs) 3 (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22454&highlight=elemental+designs) 4 (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22982&highlight=elemental+designs)
elemental designs is a great company. I also have their 6500s comps and a nine.1 amp. All of the above are great sound and build quality. And as good as their product quality is, their customer service is even better. They're almost always online and at the phones. Alex even called me the other day out of the blue to make sure i got my nine.1 hooked up alright and that everything was good. Tell me the last time JL did that for you.

*edit* They're sold out of the eu-700's and word is they will be getting the 7kv.2's in mid december. After talking with Chris i found out they're adding 1/4 of an inch to the mounting flange. At least for the 05 boxes (i dunno about the sc) it looks like that will mean that you'll probably need a spacer. They can make them, but they have to have the box in house to design one, and no one has dropped by yet. Anyone live in the Des Moines area wanna drop by and say hi to these wonderful people?

oh, and welcome to the club :-D

I've tried mounting eu-700 in the stock subwoofer enclosure. It's doable...but the space inside the stock enclosure is only 0.2 cu ft. (trust me, I know, I went to the park to get sand and measured it myself). IMO, you're not going to get the full benefits of this little driver with that little space.

With that aside, when compared to the stock woofer... the eu-700 is DEFINITELY an improvement. But you're going to need to supply it with 150 watts. The stock amp won't do. And that 1000watt mono block is just a bit too much. Also, it doesn't pick up the extreme lows....at least in the stock enclosure anyways.

I think that the stock sub doesnt get enough credit, it seems to have a decent motor structure, a stiff cone, etc. With real power I think that it would outperform a different sub in the wrong airspace... but again I do not have any first hand experience. I will be running it with the back half of the 4 channel amp so the 1000 watts wont be an issue. I must admit you all are starting to get me interested in the eD stuff... perhaps I will pick up that sub in mid-december when it comes out.
The 2nd option would be to fiberglass the enclosure outward into the cavity below and go for an 8". Similar to another install I saw on the EOC. However in that install a center consol was not used, so space will be an issue in my install. We will see.
I have the Z1 installed as of last night. Will be working on the doors tonight. Amps dont get here till friday, so assuming I get done, it will be painful to not get to hear them! But patience is a virtue.... right? :-)

If you do use the factory sub, just be nice to your wonderful amps and run the voice coils in series. You'll have more than enough power to drive a 4 ohm load.

How did the deck go in? Any trim ring or getting the deck flush with the dash issues?

I understand your thoughts on worse sub in right place is better than good sub in wrong place. Yes, the stock enclousure isn't perfect for the eu-700, but it still significantly outperforms the factory sub. I know this because i also had my factory sub wired up to some good power. I eventually fried it, which provoked my purchase of the eu-700. Also if you put a spacer on the factory box, that would pull the sub out of the box a little bit so it displaces less air out of the factory box. You can always try it with the factory sub and if its satisfactory then leave it at that. Just my 2 cents.

I just really looked at your name 07 Float. I like it :D

jpeaslee.... most people dont get it. Unless you REALLY know your elements... good eye.

The Z1 went in without a hitch. God bless the amount of room behind this dash thought, I dont see how, in a normal vehicle, you could get this thing in. With my install there are 48 wires/connectors coming off the back of the Z1. Tell me how that would fit in anything but an E? I love this thing!

The factory trim ring covers the majority of the gap. There is about 1/8" all around that I will have to trim out. ABS plastic just came today. Depending on how the doors go, I may work on the trim ring tonight. I want to make sure that I have the doors complete when the amps arrive!

Rodric, what are you using for cables?

Also, you'll definitely want to use Dynamat over at least the drive train and wheel wells. You won't believe the reduction in road noise. Whole frequencies disappear. You might as well do it as long as you have the floor pulled to wire the car up. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940070/devil.gif

Using PG stuff for the interconnects. Sound King for 4ga power/ground. JSC 12ga speaker cable for the fronts (stock for the backs as they wont be used often) and 10ga for the subs.

^ Excellent. You certainly know your gear and obviously your way around a car. Have you ever done car stereo sales or installation for a living?

No. Just always was interested in it. The E is my 24th ride in 10 years (Im 26). I competed in SQ and SPL with past vehicles. (I think there is another post on the EOC where I listed all my past vehicles). I seem to get them just how I want them, get bored, and move on.
More of a hobby that I became obsessed with. Only back then I didnt have the $$$ to buy the gear I wanted... now Im like a kid in a candy store (not a good thing if you ask my wife, or my bank account!) :-)

But it's good for us here. I'm really looking forward to the rest of your install. Thanks for sharing. :)

And I haven't officially said it but welcome to the EOC, Rodric. My name is Gregg and I'm the Mobile Electronics mod although I'm sure you've figured that out by now.

In honor of your screen name I found a cartoon for you. The New Yorker magazine has a weekly cartoon caption contest. This was the winning entry about a month ago.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940070/cartoon.jpg

Pic of the project vehicle:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1420.jpg

Got both doors done today... a total of 9 hours to do them both. Sound like a long time you say? Well by the time you dismantle the door panel, remove, clean off all of the moisture shield "gunk" (and this stuff is as gunky as it comes), wax and grease remover the outside door skin, same for the inner skin, shove all the little pieces of sound deadener through the 4 holes you have available, heat gun it on (you HAVE to use a heat gun with the deadener I use), repeat that whole process for the inside skin, well you get the picture.

Begin by removing the door panel. The stock speaker grill has to come off first (pops off/held by clips), including the 3 screws that hold the speaker (and the panel) to the door. You will find two screws behind the door handle pull and another just under the grab bar. Pry off the mirror trim and the back corner trim (all held in by clips). Pry out the power door/window bezel and disconnect the wiring. The rest of the door is held in by clips, just pry gently around the bottom, left and right until the panel is released. http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1412.jpg

The doors have ZERO, NADDA, sound deadening in them. Im talking bare metal. This is the first car I have had that has had literally nothing… oh well, what can you say for the price of these things. The product I use for SD is from Cascade Audio (VE2 I believe). I have used just about every deadener out there, and haven’t found one that beats this yet (plus I get wholesale pricing on it :-) ). It is a stiff product out of the box and requires the use of a heat gun but once warmed up is ridiculously sticky and moldable. A side benefit is that it is half as stinky as Dynamat, etc so I can keep that “new car smell” for more than 500 miles…

Job one was to peel off the stock moisture barrier. This barrier is held on by an infuriating goop. Be careful not to get it on your clothes, the floor, any other part of the car, tools etc. Be diligent in keeping it away from the panel as you pull it off. You will understand why in a few minutes.
Once the barrier is removed. Take a very flexible putty knife and scrape off as much excess as you can. You can try to just wipe the gunk off, but you will soon find out that it just spreads onto the door like frosting. The method that worked best for me was to fold a paper towel in quarters, soak it with Wax & Grease Remover, and using your finger make one pass over the area you are cleaning. Move your finger to a clean portion of the paper towel and swipe again, you will only get one swipe and that section of the towel will be filled, 3 or so swipes should have the area you are cleaning completely removed. I went through 7 paper towels to get the door done. Once finished take a fresh papertowel with WGR and do the entire door, you will find that you missed a couple goop spots. You want all this removed as nothing in the world will stick to the goop. Do the same for the inside of the door skin and get to deadening…which is self explanatory so I wont get into it here, just read the directions for your product.
Plastic Barrier:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1411.jpg
WGR and PT:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1413.jpg
Door Half Finished:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1389.jpg
Door Finished:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1390.jpg

Hmmm, I'm liking this guy. :D

On to the speaker install…
I'll take the woofer on the right Alex for $500...:http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1406.jpg

I ran two sets of 12ga wires into the door through the molex that goes into the kick panel. Just feed a coat hanger, or similar item, from the kick side into the door. I like to stagger the wires, electrical tape them to the hanger, and pull them through. This way you can run a single wire to the kick, and have easy access to your crossover should you ever need to adjust anything. Take the factory wiring that is in the door and cable tie it out of the way so it doesn’t rattle in the door.

Which wire would YOU rather have running your speakers?:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1392.jpg

The woofers obviously didnt fit in the stock locations, which I knew going in. I fabbed some simple 3/4" MDF rings, deadened both sides and mounted them to the door with 4, recessed sheet metal screws. I then added a foam baffle to the rings to provide an "enclosure" for the 6.5. This turned out better than I had planned. There is actually a slow return of the woofer, much like a sealed subwoofer enclosure would have, which had me excited for some killer mid-bass vs. a wide open leaky door. http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1399.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1395.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1401.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1402.jpg

The door panel had small "cups" that sat behind the stock woofer which protected it from weather, window (should it fall into the door), etc. All of this had to be cut out to make room for the new woofer/ring assembly. I basically eyed it, first cutting out the cup, then progressively larger areas until the woofer protruded through the door panel. Be careful, if you are planning to use the stock grills, as I am, to cut around the receiving holes for the stock grill clips where possible.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1405.jpg

excellent pics. Continue to document this well and i might... just might send you a dollar :cool:

From here I re-installed the door panel and cut a circle out of the stock grill. The new woofer would hit the grill at full excursion so it needed to be removed. I then installed the Focal grill's to the factory door grill for a finished appearance and some protection. Be sure to use very short screws to avoid having anything puncture your new speakers. Side note: for being a $500 set of component speakers the Focal woofer grills are those cheap metal mesh types that just friction fit into the grill ring, they are flimsy at best, disappointing really, and it probably wont be long until I replace them. I drilled a small hole above the woofer/ring assembly for the tweeter wire to pass though. I mounted the tweeters to the stock grill and fed the wires through. Wire up the tweeters, tuck the excess between the panel and the door skin, snap on your grill and you are finished. Repeat this whole mess for the other door…http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1403.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1404.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1421.jpg


Now being an impatient man, I HAD to hear these baby’s. I wired up a Soundstream Tarantula 500/4 I had laying around and fired them up… (remember the Alpines wont be in until Friday).
The sound is amazing, playing Norah Jones (a great test CD by the way) produced warm vocals and the piano and string bass notes were very, very lifelike. Highs are incredible. The foam baffles did their job in tightening up the mid-bass as expected and also provided a little low freq extension as well. Rap music (Jay-Z) wasnt harsh and the vocals were able to compete with the background beats note for note rather than muddying together. Guitar (John Mayer) feels like you are there, you can feel every chord change and every slide down the fret board... these speakers do NOT dissapoint!
The one problem I can see already is that the stock grills are rattling with this newfound creation behind them. Solution one would be to add some foam weather stripping at the contact points of the grill. If this doesn’t work, screwing the grills in place (with the weather stripping still installed )would surely quell the rattles.
Solution two, the one I have already started preparing for (hehe) is to fabricate some nice fiberglass enclosures to replace the stock grill location all together. Not only would this look far better, it will allow me to set the speakers on axis with the listening position… cha-ching!
That will be a whole other write up however. For now, I am going to run with these until the amps get here and I can finish up the rear cam install (waiting on the trailer hitch to do it all at one time)… plenty to keep me busy.
I should have pics up of all this progress tomorrow, if I get some free time at work.
Keep it shiny side up everyone.
Rodric

Here is a pick of the Z1 Installed - replete with radar detector hardwire. Havent had time to fashion the trim ring for the Z1 yet, busy with other "things".
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1422.jpg

The only thing out of the ordinary with this install was that I mounted the microphone into the steering column shroud. Hidden and right in front of my big mouth for good reception:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1423.jpg

Wires? What wires?
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1409.jpg

Day 2097 of the A/V install. I finally had a chance to get back to work on this yesterday and today. First order of business: Replace the stock sub everyone hates so much. I had 3 Kicker Substations laying in the garage for about a year now, then when the lightbulb finally went off, I decided to mount one up in the stock enclosure. If anyone is interested in the other two PM me...
Match made in heaven?:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1424.jpg
Indeed it is!:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1433.jpg
Sound quality is better, however I believe the stock sub had a lower F3, could be the enclosure difference I guess.

I also found a home for the focal crossover units behind the shroud for the sub, hopefully the myriad of electronics in this area doesn’t affect the sound, if so, I can always move them later.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1432.jpg

With the Alpine amps in hand… (insert the biggest smiley you have ever seen here) I proceeded to fab the mounting plate for them for the center console. My original plan was to build a separate enclosure within the console for them to mount to. This turned out to be unfeasible due to the size of the amps. These are the smallest amps you will find in this power class… PERIOD…. So… I had to work with them. (Side note: Car Audio Review just tested these and said they were some of the best amps they have ever tested for build quality etc. After listening to them perform, I have to agree. The output stages are Bang and Olufsen designs, so if you know anything about home gear, you know that is impressive. I would recommend these to anyone. Don’t cheap out on amps folks, I feel they are the heart of the system and always put 30-40% of my install budget into amplification)
Down off my soap box… lets continue the install.
What I decided to do is make a removable plate that the amps mount to within the center console which I will detail here.
First I cutout the plate approx 1” bigger on each side to serve as the “rails” for the mount.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1440.jpg


Now while I COULD have used my old craftsmen router… doesn’t this job make it a great excuse for buying a new router and router table? After all, we don’t want to waste material RIGHT HONEY?!?!?!? And have to buy another $5 piece of MDF and start over WOULD WE?!?!?!?
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1436.jpg

I rabbited the edges ½” .
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1441.jpg
Now time for the “guides” of the system. I used some simple ¾” pine for these parts, mostly because of their size and I worried that MDF may blow apart with the screw holes and such. I cut the pine to size and also rabbited the edges so that the plate sits perfectly flush in its new home. I fastened the upper half with a sheet metal screw through the console side. The bottom angles in so I had to use an L bracket fastened through the bottom of the console. Be sure to route out for the L bracket so it sits flush and don’t forget to pre-drill all of your holes.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1447.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1450.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1451.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1444.jpg
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1452.jpg

These Alpines have the unique ability to be stacked together (they bolt to eachother through removable caps) since they are class D and super efficient with the B&O design.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1437.jpg

I bolted the first amp, the 4.150, to the plate with some ¼-20’s and then bolted the sub amp, the 1.1000, to the 4.150. I countersunk the nuts into the plate as the “rails” and “guides” are a perfect fit.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1454.jpg

Amps suspended we are ready to move on!

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1455.jpg

Now its time for wiring!


http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1456.jpg

Once wired up I simply slid the amps into their new home. All the wiring is now hidden and I have complete access to my controls. I am working on the ABS cover to clean up the edges but for the most part, this is how she will look. The center console would have been a catch all for junk anyway, so I don’t consider the storage space a loss.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1458.jpg

A few side shots. Here is a pic of the rear view camera.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1461.jpg

And what system is complete without a little sub bass?
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o27/rlenhart80/Element/DSCF1462.jpg



Next up is the fiberglass door pods. I will be sure to keep everyone posted.
I should have the Xenons/Hood Bra/Copper Trim/Side Mouldings etc done by the weekend, I will post pics.

Keep it shiny side up everyone!
Rodric

Wow! Just shy of two weeks and all of that in your '07, COOL!!! :cool: Yes, keep the posts and pic's coming, esp on your fiberglass door pods. I'd be interested to see how they turn out. :D

that looks awsome!:cool: I love your set up a lot. 07float do you still have space with the sub box back there?

nice ...where in SC are you I did a stint in Columbia for a while.

I am in Charleston SC soon to be Charlotte NC.

No I dont have any room with the subs in there :-)

I did just build a sealed enclosure over the holiday (more than enough power from the Alpine to take advantage) and it sounds great. Took alot of the mud out and lowered the extension a dozen Hz or so.

I probably wont get to the doorpods for 2 weeks or so. Just trying to enjoy it for now.

I did just get a rock to the windshield on the way to work yesterday. Now I have a 12" crack running down and to the right. Looks GREAT. Im calling it my new mod. Son of a B... only 1000 miles on this thing and already getting a new shield....

ROCK and roll. :-P

Hey Float, do you know if that panel that surrounds the stereo can be swapped out with a 06 version of that panel?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Element&catcgry2=2007&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=INSTRUMENT+PANEL+GARNISH+%28DRIVER+SIDE%2 9

It looks like that part can just be popped out. I'm getting a Z1 installed as well but I thought it might be a nicer fit if I tried to replace the radio panel with an older model since those weren't angled on the sides.

I've tried mounting eu-700 in the stock subwoofer enclosure. It's doable...but the space inside the stock enclosure is only 0.2 cu ft. (trust me, I know, I went to the park to get sand and measured it myself). IMO, you're not going to get the full benefits of this little driver with that little space.

I think I've barked this out a number of times here, you can use 2 of the eD 7" woofers face to face in the stock box. The optimal space for the 7K is .3 cu. ft. When you double the speaker in an isobaric configuration you halve the space required by just one speaker. So if you consider the displacement of the 7K then you should end up with having the optimal 1.5 cu. ft. of space. If you get a spacer ring from eD to put between the speakers, it should work fine. I'd say you could probably gain at least another half octave at the bottom. The downside is you'd have the back of the speaker sticking out of your sub enclosure, and you couldn't use the grill. Does the back of the eD 7k look nice? I'd love to pick up a stock sub enclosure and try this myself and have a JL stealth box on hand to do an A/B comparison.

07 Float,

How did you manage to connect to a VSS wire? Me & my installer didn't have any luck and went with a speed pulse generator. This was a lot cheaper than some other options I've seen. Did we overlook something?

Btw, I have a 07 EX AWD.

Really great stuff Float! I enjoyed this a lot.

VSS wire is under the dash in the main harness. Just tapped into it with a tapcon. If your installer cant find it, I suggest you find a different installer ;-)

Just want to say ditto to really enjoying your adventure.

I get jealous reading all the threads on sub woofer installs. Because I use my E during the week for field service work there is no space for one. :sad:

Nice job on yours!

Update: For a variety of reasons the rest of the install has been on hold (mostly time) but I should get to the doorpods this week.

Also planned.... going to glass panels into the rear doors to hold the Kicker S10L7's. Should be sick. 10" subs with 1000w RMS going to them right behind your ass?? You bet!

I'll get pics of the progress up as soon as I have them...

From what i understand, subs in the middle of a car aren't usually a good idea. There is tons of cancellation. I'm sure you know this, but cancellation is baaaad.

What is cancellation??? Just kidding of course! Yes, I took this into account. Usually the problem involves the installer putting the drivers in the doors facing eachother from across the vehicle at which point the sound waves go whammo into each other (cancellation). I will be angling them towards the front in the glass pods. Think of a box with 12's in it just sitting on your backseat. Still sounds good right? As good as having them facing the tail 3" from the rear gate, no, but the eye candy factor will make up for the lost decibels.... :-)

So, going all the way back to post #18, I have some questions about those XTC baffles.


are those baffles sufficent for weatherproofing the speakers?
how deep into the door can you go before obstructing the window glass?I would really love to put my Memphis Sync 6.5 components in my doors but they are way too deep. I don't want to cut out the factory water shields just to have them ruined by rain but those little baffles are pretty trick (never seen them before). I'm also worried about blocking the window glass as these things are pretty deep but those Focals you put in look pretty deep too.

Did you sell the E?