Power door lock not functioning: causes and fixes [Archive] - Honda Element Owners Club Forum

: Power door lock not functioning: causes and fixes


Rudolf_Schmidt
01-03-2008, 07:25 PM
The lock/unlock button and keyless entry works on all of the doors except the drivers on my 2004 EX. The driver side lock still works manually though.

Using the forums, I tracked it down to the driverís side power door lock actuator (part #72155-S5P-A11) :

However, there was no complete description on how to remove and replace this part, so hereís my stab at it after spending the better part of 2 hours fixing mine. I tried to document it with pictures, but it was getting dark and cold on a January afternoon in Colorado, so I wasnít as thorough as I would have liked to have been.

First, follow this EXCELLENT illustrated thread (http://elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41442)for directions on removing the door panel and exterior handle.

Now that you're back.... this is your nemesis, the actuator, firmly lodged on the inside of the door. I've already unplugged its two wiring harnesses :
44215

Next, you need to remove the entire white unit, which the actuator is attached to, from the door. To do so...

1) Remove this plug by pushing it out from the inside :
44216

2) Remove the screw indicated by the black arrow, which holds the window rail inside, in order to make removal easier. Also, unscrew the lock handle indicated by the yellow arrow :
44217

3) Remove these three screws :
44214

4) Pop off any linkage bars needed and carefully remove the assembly by lowering it down and sliding it out from the inside of the door.

This is what you'll have in hand :
Remove 1 screw and press on the white tabs (as indicated) to remove the metal bracket. The actuator will then slide out by pressing two additional tabs on its ends.
44212

Installation is everything in reverse order.

Hope this helps, and sorry if I left out some details. Like I said, it was getting late and COLD!

chem-medic
03-04-2008, 12:17 PM
The other morning I was leaving the firehouse and my keyless entry wouldent do anything. I stopped for coffee on the way home and at that time ( 20 min after I embarked) the keyless entry would work every door except for the drivers door. When I arrived at home the keyless was operating good as new. As far as temp it was dry and 28 degrees when the problem started and 34 when I arrived home and fiddled with the door. Vehicle is still under warranty, however nothing seems to be wrong now. If I took it to the dealer now would they do anything? wadda ya think?

Bald Eagle
03-04-2008, 04:37 PM
The other morning I was leaving the firehouse and my keyless entry wouldent do anything. I stopped for coffee on the way home and at that time ( 20 min after I embarked) the keyless entry would work every door except for the drivers door. When I arrived at home the keyless was operating good as new. As far as temp it was dry and 28 degrees when the problem started and 34 when I arrived home and fiddled with the door. Vehicle is still under warranty, however nothing seems to be wrong now. If I took it to the dealer now would they do anything? wadda ya think?
You'd have to take it to the dealer while it wasn't working for them to do anything. My worked intermittently for about a month before it failed completely.

zirconfxbill
10-24-2008, 08:00 AM
after following your excellent instructions , i picked up the actuator yesterday and will install today. the price was $28.95 can. , a pretty cheap repair. Thanks again , your pics are perfect for someone not sure how to do the job without doing any damage.

Generation "X" Dad
10-27-2008, 03:24 AM
Ah good old Honda door lock actuators.

I had a humourous run-in with one last year. Was changing one on an '03 Accord coupe at work and I accidentally misread the work order. Ended up removing everything on the DRIVER'S SIDE and when I opened the parts bag, it had an "R" on it. My heart plummeted to my stomach as I read the work order and realized I had removed the wrong side, which I'm guessing was in part because of the fact that the driver side is the most common one to go bad.

Thankfully I was quite adept at changing them in addition to the fact that the passneger side is much easier to change so I was able to recover from my oversight and still get the customer on their way with the least amount of delay :-P

RaveBox2.0
07-26-2009, 11:15 AM
I just completed this fix. with the help of the Thread. It was a tremendous help. and I w/ the help of my "Dr. Honda" friend completed it in about 60-70 mins.

I would like to add, that its an interesting fix. You should prolly use 2 ppl.
There is 2 x 10 mm bolts that hold the door handle assembly to the door. That
u need to remove.
there is an access HOLE in the door to access the 2nd 10mm.
Not mentioned in the write up.
Also there honda clips are easy to figure out, but u should be careful when screwing around w/ them cuz there is like 4 that u need to unclip.

Other then that, great write up tons of help, woulda took me 2x as long at least, w/o the write up.

Cheers to you, I'll buy a pint when I see you. :lol:

Rock E Top
10-10-2009, 10:34 AM
I did this a month or so ago with the aid of the Honda service manual. There is no need to remove the door handle assembly.

Generation "X" Dad
10-10-2009, 10:02 PM
I did this a month or so ago with the aid of the Honda service manual. There is no need to remove the door handle assembly.True, you do not NEED to remove it, but for most other Hondas removing the door handle might be a better idea for some in order to access the clip that holds the door handle rod into the door handle assembly. Many situations it is better to spend the extra few mins to remove a part to give you better access than it is to try and fight with it in a confined space with little access.

I have a little trim tool trick I use to pop the rod end out of the handle assembly and thus someone who is unfamiliar with said Honda clipand does not know how to remove it properly could risk breaking the tab off or bending something out of whack.

andym
10-26-2009, 10:51 AM
I just wanted to go over my symptoms and see if folks agree I need to replace my actuator.
1) power locks work on every door except drivers
2) keyless doesn't work on any door
3) all doors will lock manually

Anybody have a tip for the cheapest place to find it online? My nearest dealer is 1.5hrs away and I'd like to get it fixed soon. It's been broken over a year before I found this fix.

ramblerdan
10-26-2009, 11:04 AM
1) power locks work on every door except drivers
When you toggle the switch, do you hear a click inside the driver's door? If yes, you probably just need to reattach a rod to the actuator. If no, then you might need a new actuator, but check the electrical connections first. There's a how-to thread on getting the door apart; do a search for it.

2) keyless doesn't work on any door
Unrelated problem, is my guess. You have changed the batteries in the remote, right?

andym
10-26-2009, 11:41 AM
When you toggle the switch, do you hear a click inside the driver's door? If yes, you probably just need to reattach a rod to the actuator. If no, then you might need a new actuator, but check the electrical connections first. There's a how-to thread on getting the door apart; do a search for it.

I just confirmed. There is no click when hitting the lock button. I'll pop the door panel off and check electrical connections.

Unrelated problem, is my guess. You have changed the batteries in the remote, right?

Batteries in the remote are now bad but weren't when the problem started. IIRC, pushing the remote lock button would make the manual lock button flinch like it tried to move but it wouldn't. Eventually it began acting just like the lock button inside does now, no click or anything.

ramblerdan
10-26-2009, 12:27 PM
IIRC, pushing the remote lock button would make the manual lock button flinch like it tried to move but it wouldn't. Eventually it began acting just like the lock button inside does now, no click or anything.
So the remote didn't work on the driver's door, but did it work (second click) on the passenger's door and hatch?

andym
10-26-2009, 01:17 PM
So the remote didn't work on the driver's door, but did it work (second click) on the passenger's door and hatch?

That part I don't remember. I'll grab a fresh battery on my way home today and try it again. I do think that part is correct.

andym
10-26-2009, 05:35 PM
So the remote didn't work on the driver's door, but did it work (second click) on the passenger's door and hatch?

Just confirmed... The remote doesn't work on the driver's door but it does lock/unlock the passenger's door and hatch. I don't hear the click at the drivers door either. Seems to me I need to order the actuator.

Generation "X" Dad
10-26-2009, 07:07 PM
Ah good old Honda driver side door actuators :rolleyes:. CRV, Civic and some Accord owners share your pain as well andym.

I lost track of how many I've seen and/or replaced at work and I'm waiting for mine to start slacking on me :cool:.

Box4Rox
12-06-2009, 11:06 PM
I too, just performed this on the drivers side :twisted:

Honda doesn't get points for this design ; if you are good at Rubik's Cubes , you'll be OK.

Pay attention to how everything looks as you take it apart . . . it is very EASY to get things back the wrong way (tabs on the wrong side of the attachment point, connecting rods on the wrong side, etc)

You won't know it until after the whole assembly is out and in your hand, but the big, white L shape rattle guard that keeps the rod for the interior up/down pull tab from banging into things is removable once the outer door handle/lock is removed.

REMOVE IT from the outside before attempting to pull the actuator assembly out from the inside . . .

Pull it towards the rear of the car to un-snap it and then up and out. Put it in (from the outside) after the actuator and latch mechanism has been installed. You will not have much luck trying to remove/install the actuator with the L-shaped piece pre-attached. ;-)

Locksmith's door/c-clip thing is mandatory for this as well as having the huevos to push/bend the window track as far out of the way as you dare once the bolt is removed. (You will cringe ). It is really a pain to have to manipulate the C-clip - you will swear like the "Old Man" from "A Christmas Story" . . . :oops:

(I found a C-Clip "trick", I'll post on Locksmith's thread)





This is what you'll have in hand :
Remove 1 screw and press on the white tabs (as indicated) to remove the metal bracket. The actuator will then slide out by pressing two additional tabs on its ends.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/Obi_the_dog/Honda_pics/P1010026.jpg



BE CAREFUL when swapping out the actuator . . . there are a pair of white plastic pin guides and grommets that will stay with the old (bad) actuator when the connectors are removed . . . they need to be moved over to the new, replacement actuator. Also observe the orientation of the white guide pieces before you remove them from the bad actuator; they need to be installed the correct way or the connector will not seat properly. The white pieces are NOT symmetrical.


http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/Obi_the_dog/Honda_pics/elementdooractuator1.jpg

Honda Box
05-19-2010, 04:44 PM
My 03 Element has an after market keyless entry system. The problem is that when i hit the "lock" button on the key fob or on the inside of the door, all of the doors lock except for the drivers door. The actual plastic piece that sticks up when the door is unlocked and goes down when the door is locked, is extremely loose and tries to move down when i hit the lock button but jams up and will not lock. This happens when the door is open or closed. I can wiggle it around like a loose tooth so i'm assuming that something inside of the door is loose. The same thing happens when the door is already locked and i try to unlock it, it moves but it doesn't pop up to the unlocked position.

Any ideas?

Steve

Honda Box
05-19-2010, 07:15 PM
Would the actuator cause the lock tab to jam up? I'm under the impression that my lock tab wouldn't move at all if the actuator was to blame......

The reason i made a separate thread is because this does not sound like it's my problem.

ramblerdan
05-19-2010, 09:34 PM
It could be that a linkage got disconnected. The only way to be sure is to poke around. See photos above and in this thread (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41442). (Both threads are stickeyed in this forum.)

joemama
05-20-2010, 09:06 PM
I fixed my Drivers side door lock using this thread.

It was a pain in the rear end but I'm glad I only spent $42 on the repair and not the $300 the dealer would have charged me.

The most difficult part was getting the metal arms that were attached to the outer door handle disconnected. After that it was a breeze.

Once again the EOC comes through with a great money saving thread.

Thanks to all who have posted before me.

Joe Mama

TCraftPO
06-29-2010, 11:20 AM
I just followed this procedure and it was great. The only thing I would add is that you have to turn the actuator in the door around the window track in order to get it out...I know it seems minuscule, but some people may take words verbatim. Also, you do not have to take the outer door handle off. Thanks again for all the help!

conquesimo
08-25-2010, 11:15 PM
My friend owns an Element and is convinced that the problem described in this post can be solved by replacing a fuse. Could this be true? I doubt this can be the case because electricity seems to be getting to the lock, but the lock fails to move successfully.

Here's the problem in exact detail:

When you use the keyless entry, all the doors will lock with exception to the driver's side door. You can see the lock wiggle a bit, but it does not go down. If you open the door and attempt to push the lock down, it will not budge. If you close the door, you can stick the ignition key in the doorlock and turn it to have the door successfully lock.

The same problem exists when I return to the car and try to get in. The keyless entry will unlock all the doors with exception to the driver's side door. I have to stick the ignition key in the doorlock and manually turn it to get the driver's side to open.

Thanks for any help.

ramblerdan
08-26-2010, 08:28 AM
Welcome, Conquesimo.

Clearly not a fuse! Sounds like a linkage is disconnected and/or binding. Your friend will have to take the door apart and see what's moving and not moving when he hits the switch.

SRLNCLT
08-26-2010, 08:40 AM
My friend owns an Element and is convinced that the problem described in this post can be solved by replacing a fuse. Could this be true? I doubt this can be the case because electricity seems to be getting to the lock, but the lock fails to move successfully.

Here's the problem in exact detail:

When you use the keyless entry, all the doors will lock with exception to the driver's side door. You can see the lock wiggle a bit, but it does not go down. If you open the door and attempt to push the lock down, it will not budge. If you close the door, you can stick the ignition key in the doorlock and turn it to have the door successfully lock.

The same problem exists when I return to the car and try to get in. The keyless entry will unlock all the doors with exception to the driver's side door. I have to stick the ignition key in the doorlock and manually turn it to get the driver's side to open.

Thanks for any help.

Mines doing the same thing. From what I have read, it's the solenoid that needs to be replaced. I can still push down the drivers door like manually and it locks all the doors. So hopefully that will fix it.

Caliman
09-07-2010, 11:00 AM
Mines doing the same thing. From what I have read, it's the solenoid that needs to be replaced. I can still push down the drivers door like manually and it locks all the doors. So hopefully that will fix it.

I want the convenience of my remote and am ready to fix the darn thing. Any ideas about how much it might cost to replace this solenoid at a dealership?

ramblerdan
09-07-2010, 03:09 PM
Why not call your local dealer and ask for the rate on that job? Of course that assumes that the solenoid is the problem; it will take some disassembly to troubleshoot definitively.

Don Christian
09-30-2010, 09:37 PM
Can someone tell me the part numer for the passenger's door lock actuator? Mine is not working and is not doing any noises! so I'm assuming the actuator died suddendly

ramblerdan
10-05-2010, 10:35 PM
Actuator assy., door lock (R. FR.): p/n 72115-S6A-J11 (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~actuator~assy~72115-S6A-J11.html)http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/spacer20.gifhttp://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/eoc/door_lock_actuator.gif (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/body_air_conditioning/b__5310~2004~honda~element~5dr_ex_4wd~5mt~ka~front ~door~locks~outer~handle.html)

Before replacing the part, make sure there's voltage at the connector. At rest, both connections are ground. When you hit the switch, one or the other should go to +12V.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/eoc/passenger_door_lock_schematic.gif

forserg
10-24-2010, 03:52 PM
Are they the same for left and right front doors?

ramblerdan
10-25-2010, 08:46 AM
The actuator for the left door is p/n 72155-S5P-A11. If you click on the image of the actuator above, it will take you to a page with all the parts.

chapds
10-27-2010, 11:07 PM
As you all know, I just bought my used DX & it's doing this as well ( all locks work & not drivers door ). Called my Honda dealer, & even though I really have no warranty on this, there fixing next friday...

Good customer service...

Thanx
David

Big E
03-11-2011, 12:39 AM
I would like to add, that its an interesting fix. You should prolly use 2 ppl.

You only need two people if one happens to be a Honda Tech whose specialty is actuators.

Unless you like doing Rubics Cubes in a confined space upside down naked in the rain, I'd consider having it done by a shop.
I just completed this job... one broken door panel ($500 I was told), two broken barrel clamps, half a bottle of Makers, and 3 days later, I am done. I JB Welded the door panel and it seems to be just fine. If you are a masochist and choose to do this yourself, note exactly how and where the manual lock rod plugs into the lock mechanism (you'll of course forget all the others but they are pretty easy to figure out.) And it goes without saying, be gentle removing the "worth it's weight in gold" door panel. Oh, and to put salt in my wound, when speaking to the dealer they said they only charge 94 bucks for this job.
BTW, I am somewhat mechanical.

cdkrall
03-13-2011, 10:03 PM
I took my DS side actuator apart today, they pry apart pretty easily. Little motor and some other stuff in there, I took the motor apart and found nothing too wrong, but cleaned up the brush area on the armature. Still doesn't work when directly connected to 12v.

Anybody got a cheap fave to order a new one from? I see that Amazon has them.

cdkrall
03-15-2011, 10:29 AM
I need one for the driver's door, everyone gives a huge discount, then turns around and adds handling and shipping until it costs more than retail. :x

Yeah, I'm bitching, but when I pried it open and saw that it just needs a little electric motor worth maybe a dollar, $50+ is ridiculous. Autozone wants 80 for an aftermarket one. :roll:

ramblerdan
03-15-2011, 11:15 AM
Threads merged.

Cdkrall, you've been a member here for almost seven years. How about filling in your profile?

a few sources, in alpha order:

Bernardi (http://www.bernardiparts.com/PartSearchPage.aspx) (Massachusetts)
Cheap Honda Parts (http://www.cheaphondaparts.com) (California)
College Hills Honda (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215070&year=2008) (Ohio)
Honda Parts Deals (http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/honda_parts.php) (Rhode Island)
Honda Parts Now (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/models/honda~element~parts.html) (California)
Honda Parts Store (http://www.thehondapartsstore.com) (Maryland)
Honda Parts Unlimited (http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com) (Arizona)
Majestic (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catdisplay.jsp) (Rhode Island)
My Honda Parts Store (http://www.myhondapartsstore.com) (Oklahoma)
Real Honda Parts (http://www.realhondaparts.com/rwhonda/jsp/home.jsp) (Texas)

cdkrall
03-15-2011, 06:08 PM
Thank you for the links Dan. I have tried a few of those already. I had ordered some parts from Majestic not that long ago and it didn't work out so poorly as with this thing. I'll try the rest of them and post back if I find a deal. Saw a post where someone got one at O'Reilly, website said I couldn't get one there, but turns out they can order it and get it overnight for $37! Lifetime warranty as well.

Springer
03-15-2011, 08:56 PM
Had the same problem. Noticed it wasn't working when returning to my car and the drivers side door was always unlocked! Then, my tumblers jammed and I couldn't even put my key in, another common problem. Just paid the dealer 400 to get both problems fixed:( I've filed a complaint with Honda and the National Hwy Safety Association. We've got to make some noise and get Honda to fix it. The parts guy told me that the odyssey has the same actuator with the same problem and Honda is fixing them under warranty!! Too bad I have an 03 that's out of warranty.

cdkrall
03-26-2011, 03:48 PM
JIC someone misses it on my other post, you can get the window channel completely out of the way: Unbolt from door, pull down, and push up out of the way into the top of the door. I found something up there that it caught on and stayed up.

When you go to put it back, let it hang loose and then feel up there and slide it into the upper door channel and bolt it on at the bottom. Much easier to have it away from the jobsite.

Part from O'Reilly felt heavier than the one I took out, went right in, works.

Thank you to all who posted tips, you were a great help.

dgale
05-07-2011, 04:20 PM
All of a sudden my driver's door lock is not locking. Doesn't matter if I try the key fob or the the door lock switch - the passenger door and the back door will lock but not the driver's door. I can manually lock it with the key from outside but I don't think doing that sets the alarm, plus it's a pain when I'm used to the key fob.

Any ideas on what happened and how to fix it?

ramblerdan
05-07-2011, 08:13 PM
Either the actuator failed, or a linkage has come undone. You'll have to open up the door (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41442) to find out.

Threads merged again. The thread is listed on the FAQ page (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/faq.php?faq=new_faq_item#faq_faq_eoc_howto).

Big E
05-08-2011, 02:01 PM
All of a sudden my driver's door lock is not locking. Doesn't matter if I try the key fob or the the door lock switch - the passenger door and the back door will lock but not the driver's door. I can manually lock it with the key from outside but I don't think doing that sets the alarm, plus it's a pain when I'm used to the key fob.

Any ideas on what happened and how to fix it?

Sounds like it broke, and this tread tells you how to fix it.
In the meantime, you might be able to alarm the car by locking the the offending door manually and the setting alarm as you normally would with the fob. This worked when mine broke.

dgale
05-08-2011, 11:29 PM
What's weird is if I manually lock the driver's door and then unlock the doors with the key fob, the driver's door unlocks...it just won't lock unless I do it manually. I'm not sure how this actuator works but is this typical when it fails? I figured it wouldn't lock or unlock unless I did it manually...

ramblerdan
05-09-2011, 08:42 AM
The lock actuator has three connections: ground, lock, and unlock. It's certainly possible for only the lock circuit to have a broken connection. The tough part will be figuring out where. It's also possible that the computer isn't sending current to the circuit. Someone with a wiring diagram (service manual or electrical troubleshooting manual), a test meter/light, and a little electrical experience will have to test the circuit at various points. I'd start at the actuator, looking for voltage at the connector and also applying external voltage to the actuator to make sure it is functioning properly.

dgale
05-10-2011, 09:14 AM
The thing has a mind of it's own - it started working again briefly yesterday and then quit just as quickly...I noticed it does jiggle slightly when you try to lock it with the key fob, but based on reading back through this thread that seems to be a typical symptom. I guess door dissection is in my future. When you take the door apart, do those little clips tend to break? I've had bad experiences in the past with other cars and doing this - the door panel never seems to go back together right...if so, is it advised to buy a few spares of these clips or is this usually not an issue with the E?

ramblerdan
05-10-2011, 10:21 AM
> it does jiggle slightly
If it jiggles and/or makes a clicking sound every time, you can rule out an electrical problem and look for binding in the linkage.

I haven't broken any clips yet on the doors, but the little plastic triangular piece in the corner will break if you don't remove it as the service manual directs. Locksmith's thread might address that.

Watson's Ride
05-22-2011, 02:55 PM
Tackled this job yesterday, with success thanks to this post. Did have some minor issues. As many have posted you do not need to remove the exterior handle. However, my linkage from the latch to the exterior handle was a bugger to remove! Had to pry it apart with a long screw driver, went back together just fine. Once the latch is out and you seperate the old actuator, PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the linkage within latch. If the bronze colored plate doesn't snap flush all around when putting it back together somthing may be out of alignment. Spent $36 on the part & a couple hours with my dad. Would have cost me $140 at the dealer.

kyote321
10-31-2011, 03:13 PM
did job today, took 3 hours, if I did it again, it would take 2.

thanks for the step by step...

...but I did it a bit differently: I did not take the metal and plastic holding the actuator out of the door, and yes it was successful!

the screw holding the metal to white plastic can be removed through the slot where the locking mechanism goes (the 3 large screws), and the the clip holding the actuator to the metal and plastic bits can be removed here as well. (very skinny driver with magnetic tips helpful here)

the other clips came off with a long screw driver from the largest opening on the door. the one issue was that the bits holding the door handle wire came off unexpectedly, but I was able to use the photos on page 1 to put it back together (all while the main unit was inside the door)

also, I did not remove the wiring harness for the auto windows. instead i hung it out of the way with a bungee. a small thing, but it saves one chance of breaking a plastic bit.

and, whatever way you do it, you may want to line the inside base of the door with something to prevent a dropped screw from getting lost (it looks to be possible to do this).

it is probably a wash on which method is faster. i was happy to not deal with the c-clip, and my smallish hands came in handy.

rubeninfl
11-27-2011, 08:55 AM
Wow, just got this done this morning. What a pain in the but! I started yesterday afternoon but had to stop because it got dark. All together it took about 3 hours. I did remove the lock and door handle because it was easier to remove the rod from the handle. The only slight issue I had was that once I had the actuator and white piece on my work bench, that little moving lever (connector with the little blue piece) went flying once I snapped off the brass piece holding the actuator in place. When I found the little lever there were two different ways to put it back in there. Choose the wrong once and your door won't open. Thankfully, I was able to go back to pictures in this post and find the correct orientation. Also, when putting everything back together don't forget to slip the rod the lock button screw onto through the hole or you'll have to take it all apart again. It sure is nice having power locks again!!!! Thank OP!!!!!!!

bitguy
01-29-2012, 08:00 PM
Emboldened by these detailed, illustrated instructions, I got a replacement drivers side door lock actuator from my local NAPA store (ECH DLA153 ~~$50).
It is quite tedious to get the assembly in and out of the door! However with these instructions and some patience, I replaced the actuator, and now back in business with the power door lock and remote. ThanKs!

Elementfixe
04-20-2012, 02:44 PM
Thanks for the photos & info.

C-Clip was fairly easily removed using a Paint Can opener (free from home improvement store)
The angled tip grabbed the C-Clip nicely and removed it easily.

Used a rare-earth magnet wrapped in a towel to pull the C-Clip up from the crevasse.


The door handle linkage was easily removed using a pair of channel locks to squeeze it out.

Purchased part on Amazon for $35.00

bntbushnell
06-09-2012, 04:06 PM
Thanks for the great photos!! we purchased actulator online for $22.00, took my husband about 2 hrs to get entire job done! Locks all work great now, even remote works all doors now. Save alot of money and time, do it yourself, dont pay someone hundreds of dollars for something this simple, you just need alot of patience gettings things off and hooked back up.. again, thanks for the photos!

dkalthoff
08-09-2012, 03:06 PM
1) Just to confirm,

-Key fob will not unlock the doors
-Key fob will lock the passenger door and tailgate but not drivers door
-Door switch will unlock the passenger door and tailgate
-Key manually turning drivers door lock cylinder locks all doors
= Needs new drivers door lock actuator

2) In addition, the key is difficult to use manually in the drivers door as well, as it will usually not slide into the lock cylinder, and will not unlock the door if jammed in and turned. It will work only if I keep trying to slowly send the key into the lock cylinder, in and out, in and out, until eventually it slides in easily and turns easily to unlock/lock the door. Does this mean that I need to remove the lock cylinder (which I believe I have to remove to install the actuator anyways) and have it rebuilt at a locksmith? I saw the TSB from Honda that mentioned rebuilding it myself, but it looks like expertise in that area would make the job much easier, and the Honda parts appear to be sold in large quantities. Perhaps it's easier than I think and the parts are available in only the small quantity I need? Or does replacing the door lock actuator solve the lock cylinder problem? I'm assuming it does not, but I figured I would double check on here before moving ahead with doing both.

Thanks,

Dustin

dkalthoff
08-15-2012, 01:42 AM
Does nobody knowledgeable have any input on this or do I just need to be more patient for a reply? I would like someone with knowledge in this area to share their thoughts but I'm getting antsy to fix the problem and I'm likely right that I need both an actuator and lock cylinder, and I guess if nobody wants to comment on DIY rebuilding the lock cylinder I'll just have a locksmith do it.

Sorry if I'm being impatient, I'm new to the forum and I don't know whether leaving a question posted here for 6 days means I'm not going to get an answer or if I just need to keep waiting. <sigh>

ajchien
08-15-2012, 02:28 AM
I think you're right. You may need both a new actuator and a new lock cylinder.
You might also search on YouTube, there are a few different videos out on Honda door actuator replacements. Maybe not for the element, but for the CRV and civic at least. Should be somewhat similar. Plus, the first post in this thread will help.

Somewhere on this site, is a thread by someone named 'locksmith' I think. it was about rebuilding the door cylinder. If I remember right, he's rebuilt a few, and he's recommended that you buy a whole new cylinder and apace it rekeyed instead of rebuilding it.

ramblerdan
08-15-2012, 09:57 AM
key won't turn, problem & fix (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37972)

Dkalthoff, why don't you replace the actuator, then see if you really need to repair or replace a lock?

MikeQBF
08-15-2012, 10:39 AM
Dkalthoff, why don't you replace the actuator, then see if you really need to repair or replace a lock?

He'll want to diagnose the cylinder first, because it requires the same amount of disassembly to replace as does the actuator. I.e., you want to do both at once if you have to.

For the cylinder, first try some lock lubricant (real lock lube) on just the key, then if that doesn't do it, squirt a tiny amount into the cylinder. If the problem isn't solved, get a new cylinder, have it rekeyed and ready to go in when doing the actuator.

ramblerdan
08-15-2012, 12:57 PM
Good advice on lubricating the lock, Mike.

Maybe it's just because I've had the door panels off enough times that it now seems trivial, but I'd rather take stuff apart twice than spend $40-$50 on a lock that wasn't needed—more, if you have the lock rekeyed.

dkalthoff
08-16-2012, 04:57 PM
Well after reading the post by Locksmith it's clear that I don't want to rebuild the lock cylinder. Through reading a bunch of that post it also seems apparent that these lock cylinders are incredibly expensive through Honda and bound to continue failing. Since my car has keyless entry, and I intend to lock and unlock the driver door only via the fob, not the lock cylinder, I think I can get away with saying screw the lock cylinder and just do the lock actuator. The driver door lock cylinder works poorly, but does still work, so if the battery dies I could still use it in a pinch, and if it goes completely F'd I could just use the passenger door or hatch (lol) lock cylinders, which both function perfectly. As I see it, the mechanical failure of the lock cylinder is irrelevant to the function of the lock actuator, so with a new lock actuator my drivers door lock should work perfectly via the fob. I doubt anybody is in disagreement with this?

I'm going to order the lock actuator today and I'll update this thread once installed to quickly comment on whether replacing the lock cylinder turned out to be necessary or not. I highly doubt it will.

And lastly, a big thank you to those who took the time out of their day to share the knowledge. I appreciate it greatly. Without the link to Locksmith's post I would have replaced the lock cylinder instead of realizing that it's not worth it, and to just use the fob. I feel sorry for people without keyless entry.

MikeQBF
08-16-2012, 05:11 PM
Did you try lubricating the key and cylinder yet? I bet it will help.

dkalthoff
08-19-2012, 03:47 PM
Just tried lubricating the key with WD-40, which didn't do a whole lot. Sprayed WD-40 into the lock cylinder and that made quite a huge difference. The lock cylinder doesn't work every time now, but it probably works normally 75% of the time now vs needing the key to be jiggled 100% of the time before (and practically not working at all without jiggling, perhaps 5%).

About to tackle lock actuator now.

MikeQBF
08-19-2012, 04:52 PM
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!! NOT WD-40!!!! Crap. Too late.

Did I not say "...lock lubricant (real lock lube)..."??? WD-40 is not a lock lubricant. In fact it is Hell on locks. It attracts dirt, which eventually wears out the lock. Lock lubricant is typically a graphite powder in a high-volatiles suspension which evaporates quickly, leaving just the powder.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes, go to the hardware department, and ask for... again... lock lubricant. This time you will have to squirt a fair bit into the lock to hopefully wash out the WD-40.

dkalthoff
08-19-2012, 08:18 PM
Did the actuator in about 2.5 hours following the VFAQ: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73387&page=2

Found that VFAQ to be missing a few important details, like the screw that holds the door on (the mounting hardware for that screw is now busted off my door panel and functionally useless) and a proper procedure for putting things back together. While it isn't necessary to provide the same level of detail putting things back together, I get that, but if one is going to produce a final list of the things that need to be done to get the car back together it should be in the proper order, not an order that requires a bunch of backtracking and extra work. I should have been done in around 1.5 hours I figure, if I didnt have to basically do twice the amount of work. All that being said, I still greatly appreciate that VFAQ, and for the most part it's produced very nicely.

As for functionality, the lock cylinder is as irrelevant as I presumed for the proper functioning of the lock actuator. My power locks work perfectly now from the door panel and the remote fob. I would say that anyone with the same issues as mine just squirt some WD-40 in the door lock cylinder and call it good enough (as long as it works even intermittently, in the case of a dead battery), and just do the lock actuator.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum.

MikeQBF
08-19-2012, 08:48 PM
I repeat: DO NOT USE WD-40 IN LOCKS!!!

Its effect is temporary, and it will gum-up the lock. Use a proper lock lubricant (http://www.agscompany.com/lubricants/homehardware/179) designed for the purpose.

[whimper] :-(

BloodyHammer
10-05-2012, 10:21 AM
I had to replace my door lock actuator to get my keyless to work again. I only attempted it because this fine thread exists. The photos were invaluable along the way. I wish I had looked into the trim piece removal at rear of the door a little more as I broke it. The triangular shaped piece has a clip that just does not want to release. After I finished, I tested the keyless and it worked as it was supposed to and my alarm would arm again. I buttoned it all up and was very pleased with myself. Then I drove somewhere on an errand and when I pulled the interior door handle to open the door, nothing. I could feel the rod pulling and hear the lock mechanism trying to release, but no result. Had to take the door panel apart again and it turns out, after much investigation, I must have bent the rod slightly during removal and it was just enough to not operate. After a couple quick bends to "shorten" the rod, success. If you are fairly competent at wrenching don't be afraid of this repair. I would urge you to remove the exterior handle assembly as it facilitates seeing what goes on with the rods and how they are clipped into place.

HiFi Guy
10-08-2012, 08:08 AM
First, thank you to the members who posted in this forum, you have been invaluable. I too had power door lock failure. Remote not working, locks intermittently locking & unlocking as I drove down life's highway; but the inside powere lock button functioned OK. I replaced the driver's side actuator, buttoned the door back together and voila, power locks did not work. The inside switch is unresponsive, remote not working---yes I replaced the battery. I let the car sit for 2 days as I thought about what I'd done. Went to start 'er up & the battery was dead. Any ideas, oh wise ones?

ramblerdan
10-08-2012, 09:28 AM
If the switch on the inside of the door doesn't work, you can ignore the remote for the time being. Time to reopen that door and double-check the wiring. Maybe a wire got pinched and grounded out (though that would be more likely to blow a fuse than to slowly drain the battery). And next time, test the lock (and power window) operation before putting it all back together.

HiFi Guy
10-08-2012, 09:05 PM
Thanks, I'll double check that & report back

HiFi Guy
10-12-2012, 02:09 PM
Thanks for the suggestion Dan. I've checked all of the connections, windows work, but the interior power lock switch does nothing. Windows work ok. I replaced the driver's door actuator, assuming it was the master. Did I replace the wrong one? It's looking like I'll have to cut my losses & take it to the dealer unless there are more suggestions.

ramblerdan
10-13-2012, 06:01 AM
And fuse #16 (15A) in the under-hood fuse box (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/uhfrb.htm) is OK?

HiFi Guy
10-14-2012, 04:54 PM
fuse is ok

SunnyElement
12-02-2012, 07:44 PM
I did the acuator swap out on my driver side door today. It took me 3 hours and alot of patience....not an easy quick fix. But, worth the savings if you going in you know it will take a few hours. Thanks for the pictures and how to - could not have done it without them.

bonstokelement
12-15-2012, 10:20 PM
Hey fellow members,

Found out my E has this infamous problem. Key will not unlock the drivers door. In fact it just spins freely. When I do try to unlock it, I can see the lock on the door try to lower but just gives up. I am not sure if this is an actuator or a linkage. If the actuator is weak would this be a result of it? Also since I can't turn the lock manually, what does that mean? Can I call a lock smith to re-key it or repair it?

Help

TIA

Einstein
01-05-2013, 08:08 AM
Hey folks,

I replaced my actuator on our 99 CRV a few months back and now my 2003 Element is having the same problem where the driver's door lock does not flip up or down electrically (only mechanically with the key).

I used an aftermarket actuator on the CRV and saved big bucks (over $60). It's been working great.

Now I've done it again by buying the actuator from AM Autoparts (Part Number AM-41410385 ) for $15.85 and free ground shipping.

Thanks to everyone who posted DIY information and took pictures. Taking your own pictures is a great way to make sure you can get things back the way they were before taking them apart.

The worst part about DIY is the door goop, grease, and possible sore/cut hands. Otherwise, can't wait to tear into it.

Einstein
01-12-2013, 09:55 AM
Just wanted to say I replaced the actuator with the part listed in my post above today. It works nice and strong. If I ever have problems with this part I'll come back and post about it.

I expected to need to lubricate the mechanism like I did on the CR-V, but there really wasn't anything corroded or dry. A lot of well lubricated plastic components.

3 hours is a fair amount of time to reserve for the job. I had a real hard time removing two of the three latch screws. I was using the craftsman hand impact driver. It took maybe 100 hits each before the screws let loose.

DiscGolfer
03-09-2013, 02:33 PM
Yes! This saved me thanks to the OP

DiscGolfer
03-26-2013, 10:00 AM
Yes! This saved me thanks to the OP

Spoke too soon..

1, Keyless fob will lock / unlock all doors except drivers
2, Drivers door stuck in unlock position, Will not depress into lock position in any arrangement (i.e. with door closed, holding hadle up etc..)

Thoughts? I will be tearing this door apart later to fix said issue I was just hoping for a heads up

mooman121277
05-29-2013, 06:12 PM
please help. I just replace the actuator for my door. I can now lock and unlock the door with the switch. I can also unlock the door with the key fob, however I cannot lock the door with the key fob. Also when I manually lock and press lock the horn does not beep.

mooman121277
05-29-2013, 06:52 PM
Soo i feel dumb now, If you have this issue your door latch is stuck in the locked position . All I had to do was open the latch using the outside handle. Also I didn't know that the lock fob only responds when the door is completely closed. Thanks guys for all the help with the actuator install.

asparks65
09-22-2013, 04:33 PM
Just a quick thanks. I installed a new actuator and a new key cylinder in the drivers door today. It only took about an our thanks to all the great information here in this thread. Thank once again for making my job easier, you all rock!!!

snagged the actuator off eBay for $10.97 and the lock cylinder from the local Honda dealer for $33 (w/2 keys) - It sucks now because I have 2 keys to keep up with.

harte
11-25-2013, 06:29 PM
Well done article and images. Very thoughtful to take the time to do this to help others!

hondabozo
01-14-2014, 04:02 PM
Didn't I see a flow chart on how to debug these things? I'll explain my problems anyway. It seems a bit different than the standard "change the drivers side actuator" problems.

1) Key fob blinks lights. No locks lock.
2) Inside "lock all" button doesn't do anything.
3) No locks physically jammed. Can manually lock and unlock everything.

When "fobbing" inside the cab I can hear the fob relay clicking down by the fuse box.

Checked fuse 16, seems fine. I had a slightly related problem where the latch mechanism physically came loose from the tailgate severing the actuator wires. The latch mechanism has been tightened up and the wiring harness has been replaced. It "appears" the wiring harness replacement went OK as all the other bits in the tailgate seem to function correctly.

So my next step is check voltage at the driver's side actuator?

Hondabozo

Loztos
02-10-2014, 03:47 PM
Thanks for the excellent instructions. :-) It took me about 2 hours to change the actuator from the driver's door. The difficult part was to take the clip apart as i was working alone.

zpex
02-24-2014, 06:37 PM
I almost made it. Got down to the last 3 screws and they were hard to remove. The very last one tried to strip. Going to likely have to drill it out. Anyone have an idea where to get replacements?

Loztos
03-18-2014, 11:49 AM
One month later and it's broken again. There is a problem in the electrical design. The actuator shouldn't activate trying to lock the door when it's open.
The lever doesn't let you lock manually, but if you press the lock button on the door or in the key fob it activates the actuator trying to lock the door. I suspect there is an increase in the current throught the actuator leading to burning the coil.
I'm gonna put a contact switch or something that won't let activate the actuator when the door is open. Other option is remove the part that dont let the actuator lock the door when it's open.
Also, i'm going to tear down the old actuator to see why it doesn't work and if it can be fixed.

Loztos
03-20-2014, 08:24 PM
Well i tear diwn the lock actuator, there are the pictures

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p332/loztos/IMG_20140320_185159_zpscd4b5d81.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/loztos/media/IMG_20140320_185159_zpscd4b5d81.jpg.html)

Once i cleaned the motor

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p332/loztos/IMG_20140320_190555_zps633ceab8.jpg (http://s344.photobucket.com/user/loztos/media/IMG_20140320_190555_zps633ceab8.jpg.html)

So it looks like it blowed up. The next step is check if it works again.

daphne71
03-21-2014, 05:41 PM
One month later and it's broken again. There is a problem in the electrical design. The actuator shouldn't activate trying to lock the door when it's open.
The lever doesn't let you lock manually, but if you press the lock button on the door or in the key fob it activates the actuator trying to lock the door. I suspect there is an increase in the current throught the actuator leading to burning the coil.
I'm gonna put a contact switch or something that won't let activate the actuator when the door is open. Other option is remove the part that dont let the actuator lock the door when it's open.
Also, i'm going to tear down the old actuator to see why it doesn't work and if it can be fixed.

How often do you really try to lock the door when it's open that you need to modify it?

Loztos
03-23-2014, 12:29 PM
How often do you really try to lock the door when it's open that you need to modify it?

The problem is the seat belt, sometimes it doesn't retract completely, so it doesn't let close the door. Last time i didn't notice the door didn't close, and used the key fob to lock the doors, that's when it broke.

I could be more careful when locking the door, and whit the seat belt, but how much would last the new actuator until it breaks? I prefer to be sure it won't activate when the door is open, so it could last a little longer, i don't want to deal with the actuator every two or three month.

SRLNCLT
03-23-2014, 01:16 PM
Seatbelts have a lifetime warranty. Take it to The dealership and get it fixed.

lizzurd
03-23-2014, 04:38 PM
Seatbelts have a lifetime warranty. Take it to The dealership and get it fixed.

Offer not valid in Mexico........

Ekmee77
07-15-2014, 12:16 AM
So my auto locks have been confounding me.

First, my driver's side and passenger side would not open with the fob but my the hatchback would. Also at this time if I used the auto lock button inside the passenger lock would open as well as the hatchback but still no driver side.

Then, things worked them self out for a while and everything worked fine.

Soon after, however, we went back to the same original problem. I assumed it was the actuator after consulting forums and purchased the part to do the swap this week.

Recently though, things reversed and now the fob and inside lock button open the driver side but not the passenger side. This makes me wonder if it is the actuator. Could it be something other than the actuator?

Any help would be appreciated!

Hubbard
08-02-2014, 12:46 PM
Hey all... 1st time posting or on this site so I am sorry if this isn't the right venue... I have a 2003 4wd ex and it seems like all the electronics on the passenger side have stopped working. Power window, lock and mirror. any ideas?

Nasty2004
08-02-2014, 07:26 PM
Did your Element already have a power lock on the passenger side when you got it? The fuse panel is under the steering column, it detaches by twisting the two latches a quarter-turn then slides out. It's pretty hard to see up there, so find the appropriate fuse location from the diagram in your owner's manual to help pinpoint the search. The fuse is plastic and you can see a metal ribbon inside. If it has blown, the ribbon will be severed.

lizzurd
08-02-2014, 07:49 PM
Since the mirrors,window and door lock are controlled by separate fuses i doubt that is the issue. I would look for broken wires in the door harness.

Nasty2004
08-02-2014, 10:57 PM
1. That's not good news.

2. I just realized they probably meant the actuator on the passenger side. That makes sense now.