Adding a power outlet (front) [Archive] - Honda Element Owners Club Forum

: Adding a power outlet (front)


laizerman
09-17-2003, 11:07 AM
Has anyone considered putting in extra 12-volt outlets? I would like to add some to my E but would rather go with a cleaner stock look rather than those you can buy at Wal-Mart. I haven't gotten into the dash but it seems maybe there would be enough space on the driver's side, opposite the hazard blinker or maybe in the floor console? Any ideas would be welcomed.

marky
09-17-2003, 12:01 PM
If you decide you want to go this way, the rear outlet is a snap in piece, it goes for about $12. It includes a nice cover, it might look really nice opposite the flashers button.

isketerol
09-17-2003, 08:09 PM
An "Add-a-Fuse" would serve quite nicely. See my post on hardwiring my Wayfinder for more information.

HBElement
09-26-2003, 02:10 PM
I have had the same though but to have a constant 12v not ignition hot.

HB

cslaughtermd
10-15-2003, 12:16 PM
Hello, I've been lurking for a few days since I got my Sunset Orange Element this past Saturday! I love it! I've already gotten a few "Wow"s and "Nice truck!" and everyone thinks that it cost around $30K!

So far I've installed the Thule Roof Rack rather than the factory one - easy and solid, more versatile, and cheaper! I ordered at <A Href = "http://www.orsracksdirect.com/thule-car-roof-racks-base-systems-components.html">ORSRacksDirect.com</a> and got everything including the fairing for about $210 but of course I had to order the Kayak mount to get the price above $250 to qualify for free shipping.

I've also lined the shelves with some black rubbery liner I got at target for $1.99 using the templates posted in this forum.

The exciting one, however, is the 12 volt accessory outlet - I also wanted the rear outlet to be always-on and I wanted another outlet up front that was always on. I used the instructions <a href="http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~joel/fun/Element/RearOutletWire/rearoutletwire.htm">that I found on the forums here</a> to rewire the rear outlet to always on, then I wanted an easy, non-warranty-voiding way to put another one up front. There are a few posts on detailing tapping into a wire behind the fuse box, wiring directly to the battery, or using an add-a-circuit to do this.
Here's what I did:
$2.99 add-a-circuit from an auto parts store, $5.99 12 volt accessory outlet from Radio Shack, plus a few bucks for a little more wire and an assorted box of wire crimps/connectors and some electrical tape.
I installed the add-a-circuit to the rear accessory fuse like so:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/uploads/files/add-a-circuit.jpg
Then I ran the wire down the side pillar by squeezing it between the seal and the moulding after gently removing the bottom doorjam moulding and the center console. I ran the wire under the moulding then pulled it through under the plastic flooring under the center console with a coat hanger.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/uploads/files/wireposition.jpg
I used the bracket included with the outlet to trace a circle in the corner of the center console and cut out the hole fairly easily with my B&D Wizard tool and it popped in perfectly and solidly! I attached the ground to a bolt under the center console as shown, and crimped the blue wire that I ran to the + terminal of the outlet.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/uploads/files/underwires.jpg
I reinstalled the center console and viola! Here's the finished product!
http://www.elementownersclub.com/uploads/files/finished.jpg
Actually I did this prior to jumping the rear outlet to always on and it had power without the key as well. The only damage I did to the vehicle was the hole in the center console which is perfectly covered by the outlet.
Hope this helps!
Hmm. . .what shall I mod next?
Hopefully the pics are uploaded properly, it's the first time I've done it but they are uploaded to the EOC uploads folder.

HdHunter
05-02-2004, 08:52 AM
I picked up my 2004 EX just yesterday and have already purchased the Radio Shack outlet. Having th e utmost respect for plastic parts, I don't want to break any by forcing things - so. What's the best way to get the parking brake/cup holder console off the floor? How is it attached?

Thanx,

cslaughtermd
05-02-2004, 02:07 PM
I think that I pulled up on it from the rear and it popped up pretty easily. there are 2 plastic clips in the front and the back and it's a little difficult to pop them back in. If you push in the plastic in the back of the console while lifting up you shouldn't risk breaking anything. I haven't checked for other posts describing taking off the console, but there may be. Good luck!

Nanook
05-07-2004, 12:31 AM
[Moderator's note: Photos in this and some other posts in this thread have been lost, but other illustrated posts follow.]

One of my biggest annoyances about the E. was that there was only one 12V socket in the front. Isn't it standard to have two nowadays? I would expect to have three up there, because the E. is so cool, you know? And being a smoker (I know) it just seemed weird to me not to have a lighter. Plus, I have wanted a Dremel for a while. ;)

I basically followed cslaughtermd's plan (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36218&postcount=5) except for my socket I ran the hot wire down the left of the sub and straight back to the console under the rubber flooring. It was a pain to stick the coat hanger under from the console side until I unbolted the sub (two bolts on each side) and moved it aside. I stuck the Add-a-Circuit into the #3 fuse: DRL's, since I'm not a Canuck, I'm Nanook. :roll:

Here's a pic of the finished product:


http://www.lafn.org/~bf115/12V.jpg


The lighter I got from Pep Boys has a clear green plastic ring around it (matches!) with a light bulb that is supposed to be powered from the running lights wire so it comes on with them. For the life of me, I couldn't find the damn black/red running lights wire under there, so I discovered on another thread that the right of the three posts in a socket for the fogs was hot with the running lights. I used a female quick connect terminal to stick on there, and to make sure it didn't touch the middle post I stuck a small length of heat shrink tubing (white in the picture) on the middle post and wrapped the terminal in electrical tape. It's dead center in the picture.


http://www.lafn.org/~bf115/Wires.jpg


I didn't take a picture of the ground, but if you have your head in front of the fuse panel and you look to the right, you'll see a bolt with at least three wires grounded to it. I used that one. No hum on the stereo. Oh, I used fuse #2 for the Add-a-Circuit, the rear accessory, moved its 15A fuse to the lighter and put a 10A in for the rear socket.

Here's a pic of the lighter, and my first ding. I didn't expect to give myself the first one, but my car is not perfect anymore. I forgot to turn the Dremel off before removing it from the hole and put a nice gouge in the dash. It's thankfully obscured by the steering wheel when I am driving, along with half of the gauges. I wonder if that little piece of green vinyl/rubber (?) is replacable...?


http://www.lafn.org/~bf115/Lighter.jpg


The worst of it was lying on my back under the dash, trying to screw the two halves of the lighter together, one from the front and one from behind. A word of warning, plastic can be sharp!


http://www.lafn.org/~bf115/Hand.jpg


And finally, I found the perfect place for my Tomy 1:60 GGM E. Bought on eBay. Hasn't budged yet. I figure a really big speed bump taken fast might move it.


http://www.lafn.org/~bf115/Tomy.jpg

brendan
05-19-2004, 10:34 PM
Thanks for the reminder of this mod, nanook. The morning I left for the EOC meet, I drilled out *two* holes in the center console. One on the passenger side of the front cupholder (like yours) and an additional one on the driver side of the front cup holder. A 1&1/8" drill-bit was what I needed (for the marine sockets, see below).

Unfortunately, for the first hole, I "measured once and drilled twice", that is, I screwed it up by using a 1" bit. DOH.

Needless to say, drilling a 1.125" hole into the spot that a 1" hole already exists was not very fun. :) Then I installed two of the following sockets, cleverly covering up the butchering job on the first holel:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=265-274

http://www.partsexpress.com/images/265-274m.jpg

They're the generic versions of the Marinco boating sockets (which area also available from partsexpres). The sockets accept standard 12V DC plugs, but if you use Marinco plugs, they interlock and are water-resistant as well. That seemed appropriate for low-lying 12V DC sockets in the hose^H^H^H^H sponge-out-able E.

Anyway, today I finally finished the mod...

Thanks for the tip on the coat hanger. I used the unravelled coat hanger's twisty part to keep the wire in place. Still, I had to get creative...I had to pull up on the flooring between the center console and the middle column to give the coat hanger enough play to pull through. Three or more hands would have made this part much easier. What a pain in the tukus.

Since I was running *two* sets of wire, I chose to use the removal of the coat hanger to pull the second wire back through. I'm one clever monkey!

I routed the wire behind the wiring looms on the center column making it nearly impossible for the wires to come loose in the way of access to the gas or brake pedals.

Unfortunately, I used 10 gauge wire, thinking "hey, you never know when you might end up needing to rewire these for 20 amps. This ended up being amusing, since most of my connecting hardware, including the Littlefuse mini add-a-circuit wire endings, have connections for 14-16 gauge wire. Some snipping, part modifying and parts scrounging and I made due. Perhaps I should have stuck with 12-14 gauge wire...

For power, I used fuse locations 3 (DRL control unit) and 18 (front socket) to attach the add-a-circuits. The end result is that the driver's side socket is *always* powered (via position 3), and the passenger side socket is powered when the key is turned in the ignition (via position 18...). I like that combo.

For grounding, I used a bolt below the middle console to ground both sockets.

Lastly: have you noticed that the console seems a bit too easy to mistakely pull loose when removing plugs from the sockets? Hrm

I was going to post pics, but...damn, the interior of my E is DIIIIIRTY.

-brendan

MikeQBF
05-19-2004, 10:44 PM
>I wonder if that little piece of green vinyl/rubber (?) is replacable...?

Look here (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Element&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=5DR+EX+4WD+SIDE+SRS&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=INSTRUMENT+PANEL+GARNISH+%28DRIVER+SIDE%2 9). $2.21. $2.95 list price if you want to avoid Majestic's shipping and handling ($5).

>A word of warning, plastic can be sharp!

Ha. My wife knows well that any project I work on will not be successful until it is lubricated by my blood. The time I did the clutch on her Miata was really successful!

Good job, BTW. Inspires me to do something similar.

Nanook
05-20-2004, 03:49 AM
First of all, I'd just like to say thank GOD someone replied to this post already. Not even a "you know, smoking is bad for you" reply! ;)

Anyway, brendan re: the drilling mishap. I know the feeling. The cig lighter is just slightly off center and only I notice it, but damn. Drilling a bigger hole where one exists already really sounds like a pain no matter which bit you used. I just bought a Dremel.

10 guage? For your 12V hair drier?

Funny, *both* my Add-a-Circuit sockets are hot when the car is off. Maybe has something to do with the orientation of the AaC bypassing the relay?

And yeah, the floor console is a little too easy to remove once it's been done once.


MikeQBF: THANKS! That's a load off. Never knew the color was "field green."

"Lubricated by my blood." lol

brendan
05-20-2004, 09:06 AM
Anyway, brendan re: the drilling mishap. I know the feeling. The cig lighter is just slightly off center and only I notice it, but damn. Drilling a bigger hole where one exists already really sounds like a pain no matter whick bit you used. I just bought a Dremel.

Yeah. I tried moving to the 1.125" bit, but the way the bit works (it's more of a blade) requires that the center 1/4" of the blade be sort of anchored in the material to be drilled. So, I swapped that out with a regular old 1/8" drill bit and just shaved away additional material. Sloooowly. It was essentially dremeling work.

10 guage? For your 12V hair drier?

Hey, never know when I might install some sort of permanant inverter setup there. :)

Funny, *both* my Add-a-Circuit sockets are hot when the car is off. Maybe has something to do with the orientation of the AaC bypassing the relay?

What positions did you use for your AaCs?

I'm trying to visualize the add-a-circuit positions I used, but the fact that I was upside-down at the time of working on it is making it difficult. I *remember* that I used positions 3 (always hot) and 18 (hot on run), but my visualization is failing to verify that, due to the odd cortortions I used to get my head under the dash facing upward. Hrm. Now I have to go check again.

And yeah, the floor console is a little too easy to remove once it's been done once.

I guess I'll just warn my passengers.

-brendan

Nanook
05-21-2004, 03:20 AM
Great. Now I can't get the Ghostbusterstheme out of my head.

Joe, yeah you got an extra 2 hours' drive each way, too... Well, here are the parts for the "SD Meet."

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=270-1556
The trapezoidal black part is an extra piece only if you mount it under the dash. Any kind of 12V socket will do, although the install of this one couldn't have been easier; it just pops in. Brendan's one is a little beefier, but it looks like it screws in. [insert joke here]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-580
These are available at Pep Boys. I'm sure other auto parts stores will carry them, but I couldn't find 'em at Kragen. Make sure you get the mini fuse version.

An assortment of wire, I used 14 guage, butt connectors and a crimping tool, although pliers will do in a pinch. Oh yeah, the 12V socket requires, IIRC, a 1 3/32" hole. Try finding that size spade bit. I just used a 1" and Dremeled out the hole a bit. I think that's it.

As far as the contortions necessary to get at the fuse panel, I have fond memories of balancing on my belly over the driver's seat, lying on my side by the pedals, and for getting behind the dash, lying on my back with the top 1/3 of my body by the pedals and my feet scrabbling for purchase on my dirty garage floor.

And brendan, if that was you with the pony tail in the picture with who I can only assume to be honowcb, we apparently shop at the same store. Spitting image right down to the sandals. Except my pony tail was replaced by a shaved head 10 years ago.

And I still have a dot matrix printer for some strange reason in my closet. Does that count?

MikeQBF
05-21-2004, 05:44 AM
[Add-A-Circuit]... These are available at Pep Boys. I'm sure other auto parts stores will carry them, but I couldn't find 'em at Kragen.
They're only available at stores that carry the Littelfuse line of fuses and fuse products. There are two major brands of fuses - Littelfuse and Bussman. The parts chains carry one or the other, and never both. Bussman does not make an equivalent part.

Known to stock Littelfuse (and Add-A-Circuit): Pep Boys and AutoZone.

Known to stock Bussman (no possibility of Add-A-Circuit): Kragen and AdvanceAuto.

brendan
05-21-2004, 10:56 AM
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-580
These are available at Pep Boys. I'm sure other auto parts stores will carry them, but I couldn't find 'em at Kragen. Make sure you get the mini fuse version.

Unfortunately, I didn't trust that the AaC at partsexpress was not the ATO (larger) version, so I ended up finding the closest PepBoys. Man, was that place run down. The electrical section looked like a tornado had gone through: 1/2 of the stuff was lying on the floor under the hangers, and the stuff left up there only filled up about 1/4 of the space.

Luckily, the *fuse section* was on the other side of the store from the *electrical* section. So strange.

An assortment of wire, I used 14 guage, butt connectors and a crimping tool, although pliers will do in a pinch. Oh yeah, the 12V socket requires, IIRC, a 1 3/32" hole. Try finding that size spade bit. I just used a 1" and Dremeled out the hole a bit. I think that's it.

As mentioned above, the socket I used from partsexpress required a slightly different-sized hole (1.125"). It pops in the hole and has a plastic nut on the back to tighten it in place.

As far as the contortions necessary to get at the fuse panel, I have fond memories of balancing on my belly over the driver's seat, lying on my side by the pedals, and for getting behind the dash, lying on my back with the top 1/3 of my body by the pedals and my feet scrabbling for purchase on my dirty garage floor.

At least you weren't outside in the parking lot next to the stinky dumpster. Ugh. :) I tried the lying-over-the-door-sill approach and it was way too uncomfortable.

MikeQBF
05-25-2004, 05:02 AM
In finishing-up a foglight installation, I realized that the fog circuit took its 12V from a single-pin connector in the inside fusebox - a connector that is nothing more than a standard 1/4" spade (male). It attaches to one of the full-time-on power busses coming from the battery, this bus protected by a 50A fuse.

If you don't have the factory fogs installed, here's a great place to pick-up battery power with nothing more than a standard female spade-lug connector. From what I can tell, this bus is only shared with one other circuit, which is fused for 20A (exc. for Canada vehicles - there's also a DRL circuit). You will need to separately fuse your own device(s) if you tap here.

Here's the location:

http://www.everywherewest.com/12Vtap.gif

brendan
05-25-2004, 10:58 AM
That looks like where nanook tapped into power for his console 12V socket, I think...

hybris1
05-25-2004, 11:02 AM
Yes, I found that connection point also. Anyone know of a good switched connection point. It does not need to be high amp rated.

MikeQBF
05-25-2004, 11:59 AM
>That looks like where nanook tapped into power for his console 12V socket, I think...

Close. He picked the lead for the glow ring around the cig ligher from the next connector over. I'll betcha he's slapping his forehead about now for missing the lug right next to it.

:wink:

Sort of a post-surgery footnote - the under-dash harness for the fogs is a real piece of work. How could something so simple in function be made so complicated? If Honda was serious about the fogs as an accessory, the relay socket, fuse, and interconnects to the lights control would have been built into the main fusebox. As it is, there must be $50-60 in connectors alone in the harness. Go figure.

:roll:

Nanook
05-25-2004, 02:33 PM
What is the sound of one forehead slapping?

That's good to know, MikeQBF. I'm still satisfied I used an Add-a-Circuit, though. Rather than adding an inline fuse holder, or turning my cig lighter into an arc welder with 50A. ;)

SCREWaerodynamics!
05-25-2004, 10:48 PM
so what kinda devices are we talking about that could be powered by this?
i'm thinking LED lighting, the turn-on wire for mobile amplifiers, etc...
Or we talking heavier-duty applications?

MikeQBF
05-25-2004, 11:07 PM
>Or we talking heavier-duty applications?

Heavy-duty stuff. Maybe even as a source for an auxiliary fuse panel.

I'm planning to tap into this via the fog lead (looks to be #14 wire) as a source for two or three 12V outlets slated for the center console.

hownowcb
05-26-2004, 12:37 AM
In my conversations with Brendan, now two weekends ago, I shared that I'd discovered that the unused slots in the interior fuse box wouldn't accept a plain spade lug (for use with an in-line fused circuit) which dictated that I use a Tap-a-Circuit for whatever it was I needed to power way back then (memory fails!). And when I say "wouldn't accept" I mean there is nothing to keep the spade from just falling out. There's no "grip" in the empty sockets, that I could detect anyway. If you've just put a probe in there to detect power, that's one thing. It's something else again, if you can get a spade lug to actually stay in place. In contrast, a spade lug worked just fine in an unused slot in the under-hood fuse box. Go figure. :roll:

brendan
05-26-2004, 01:01 AM
>Or we talking heavier-duty applications?

Heavy-duty stuff. Maybe even as a source for an auxiliary fuse panel.

I'm planning to tap into this via the fog lead (looks to be #14 wire) as a source for two or three 12V outlets slated for the center console.

THREE? ? ? :shock:

Folks...what we've got here is what they call one of thems ARMS RACES!

:)

-brendan

MikeQBF
05-26-2004, 01:23 AM
>if you can get a spade lug to actually stay in place.

This particular lug appears to be standard thickness, Colin. If not, I've maneuvered around this in the past by a careful squeeze with needlenose.

>THREE? ? ? :shock:

You call yourself a ham and you're questioning this? :lol:

Seriously! One for the iQue, one for whatever HT I've just run the batteries down on, and one for the iPod or cellphone or laptop or whatever else is going along on the day's mission. Don't forget I've already put in that biga$$ Optima battery for stuff like this.

Putting multi outlets in the console is going to cut way back on the cord clutter, too. The stock outlet location is not all that great, and then there's the power-off factor (as the discharged battery on my iQue is reminding me right now... grrrr!).

brendan
05-26-2004, 02:01 AM
Seriously! One for the iQue, one for whatever HT I've just run the batteries down on, and one for the iPod or cellphone or laptop or whatever else is going along on the day's mission. Don't forget I've already put in that biga$$ Optima battery for stuff like this.

Putting multi outlets in the console is going to cut way back on the cord clutter, too. The stock outlet location is not all that great, and then there's the power-off factor (as the discharged battery on my iQue is reminding me right now... grrrr!).[/quote:df90774a79]

Heh. I was more reacting to the fact I'd just installed two on the floor console already in relatively spill-resistant locations (rubber covers, not on a flat area) and you're already upping the ante!

For three(!!!), I'm not sure where I'd put the third in the floor console...

I'm also thinking of installing a hidden one under the dash on the left side for my cell phone which currently "floats" magnetically on the driver side A column using the handa honda magnets. Then two more in the rear-seat mounts for passengers...then...

...yawn, ok bedtime.

-brendan

MikeQBF
05-26-2004, 02:18 AM
>I'm not sure where I'd put the third in the floor console...

Depending on what's underneath, I'm thinking either horizontal (socket facing upwards) immediately behind the parking brake lever, or on the front wall of the back pocket, facing towards the back.

I'll know more this afternoon. The big brown truck (Daddy!) should be dropping by a box of supplies from H&A, which should include an "official" Honda 12V outlet (the one for the DX rear). I figured for $10, why not make the sockets a stock part?

brendan
05-27-2004, 12:52 AM
What can I say: I love the always-hot 12V socket.

I was invariably forgetting to keep my cell phone charged. Now, every other day or so, when I go to the gym, I just pop the charger into the always-hot 12V socket and leave the phone in the car for that 60-90 minute period. Voila, instantly full.

And for some reason, I keep remembering to remove it from the hot side when I get back to the car.

Gotta take some pics...

-brendan

Nanook
05-27-2004, 02:29 PM
brendan, if you're worried about leaving the cig cord plugged in draining the battery, I can attest that two day's worth has no noticeable effect.

One more "feature" I love is my iPod's power is plugged in to the OG dash socket, and it automatically pauses and subsequently powers down when I turn off the car.

brendan
05-27-2004, 04:44 PM
In addition, it appears that the 75W DC->AC adapters have a no-load overhead of <0.5A, so I can use one of those for my mp3 player when doing errands before I go to the gym as well. Excellent!

-brendan

BigFoot
05-30-2004, 07:52 PM
Timely link to this recent posting Mike, thanks. I need that connection for a trailer brake controller I'm installing under the dash. Four weeks and I'll be towing a 13' Scamp with the Element!

UPDATE: No, I needed the one next to it that comes on with the car, as I don't want the Brake Controller on all the time, now do I?

fotobox
01-02-2005, 03:30 AM
One more "feature" I love is my iPod's power is plugged in to the OG dash socket, and it automatically pauses and subsequently powers down when I turn off the car.

Two things:
1. Seriously, it does this?? With just a cig lighter adapter? (which brand?)

2. Could someone give relatively basic steps for just making the front factory socket on constantly? Preferably without voiding the extended warranty. I'd like to not shorten the iPod's battery life with unnecessary connect/disconnect power cycles every time I turn the ignition.

I tried to glean from the earlier post but got lost...

Nanook
01-02-2005, 08:43 PM
Hi,

Haven't been around here much lately, but glad to see my magnum opus thread still gets some action.

I have a Belkin 12V adapter with a line out jack.

I did a little searching for constant on in the front socket, and couldn't find any "basic" instructions. Maybe you'll have better luck. I wouldn't worry too much about shortening your iPod's battery life by supplying it power. I sure don't. ;)

orome
01-02-2005, 09:56 PM
Has anyone tried to install the official Honda socket (avail for a song through Honda or third parties, but the former wants to charge $75 to install) in either of the two back-of-the-vehicle points? I could use at least one back there if not two, and read somewhere the wiring was present, just not the jack.

gizmo
01-18-2005, 02:39 PM
Great pics of the install, thanks.
Although smoking may be one thing, how about a GPS and a XM Roady radio?
Need 2 sockets to run those concurrently.

I use 1 to 3 adapter.
http://www.mobileplanet.com/assets/product_images/MP500180.gif

dfreeze
01-25-2005, 12:16 PM
Great idea and excellent pictures/instructions. I did this install myself a couple of weeks ago and love it.

I didn't have access to a drill press, and my largest drill bit wasn't anywhere near as large as necessary. So, I used a Dremel. This was a long, annoying process. I probably carved some plastic, stopped, checked the fit about 50 different times before I had a prefect fit. The hole is very jagged-looking, of course, but the lip of the outlet covers the butchering.

elemint8
10-24-2005, 02:40 PM
i know this thread is old, but its still a great one, and i need a place to practice posting a picture, anyway, heres another idea...i always have friends in the back seats that need to charge their cell phones...

Dom.five
11-10-2005, 01:18 PM
I know that I'm too late to help with the hole is too small thing. BUT ..... Have you boys ever thought about using a unibit??? They start with 1/4" hole and you can get them that go all the way to 2" if needed.

I just driled the 1/4" hole then used the unibit to take it to the 1 1/4" size. It's fast and clean !!

brokenjack
11-12-2005, 05:45 PM
heres another idea...i always have friends in the back seats that need to charge their cell phones...


I just did the same thing. Outlet in the rear console. This was a great Idea, and didn't really think of it until I read your post. Also I noticed if you put the add a circuit in fuse plug number 2 it's always on. This is great if you were planning on running a computer from under the seat to this location.

Dom.five
06-02-2006, 12:22 AM
T
I screwed it up by using a 1" bit. DOH.

Needless to say, drilling a 1.125" hole into the spot that a 1" hole already exists was not very fun. :) Then I installed two of the following sockets, cleverly covering up the butchering job on the first holel:


Brendan

If you do that ( put a 1" hole ) When you need a 1.125" hole . Then put the 1" bit inside the 1.125 bit on the arbor. It will only stick out about an eighth of an inch, but it works. ( can ya tell I've done this before ? )
Usually when I screw it up it's on someones 200,000$ boat. It has to look good when I'm done, or I have to pay to fix it!

Dom

SciJohn
06-15-2006, 11:13 PM
I wanted to move my iPod closer to the driver's seat but I really didn't want to drill or cut anything on my E so here's what I did.
1. I purchased a Ten Technology Flexible iPod Charger and Cradle Dock. $50 at Apple.
http://www.tentechnology.com/products/products_flexibledock.php
(see picture below)
19169

2. I installed a Bell Power Outlet Extension Model 39005-1. $8 at Pep Boys.
http://www.bellautomotive.com/asp/thumbnails.asp?cat=2209
It fits perfectly on the right side wall of of the tiny shelf to the right of the steering wheel. The outlet looks like it was made for that spot. It attaches with velcro so it should be easy to remove.
(see picture below)
19170

3. I snaked the outlet plug and a 5' mini Male / Male audio cable ($3) together down under the dash into the fuse door cover and out the back.
4. Then I popped the subwoofer cover off a bit (1 " should do it.) and snaked the cables from the left back of the cover, around the front, and to the back right. The cover pops off quite easily. Just pull it straight towards the emergency brake. An inch out is enough room to do this. It pops back on just as easily as it comes off.
5. The cable on the 12V extension is a bit short so you will either need to splice some wires to give you 2 -3 more feet or buy an extension cord ($4). Luckily, I already had an extension cord. (also from Bell)
(see picture below)
19172
6. Plug the extension into your front 12V outlet.
7. Plug the audio cable into the aux. jack.
8. Plug the flexible dock in the extended outlet.
9. Adjust the viewing height / angle and there you have a secure extended 12V outlet with no cutting or drilling. And it looks pretty neat.
(see picture below)
19171

Total time to set up: 5 to 10 minutes
Approximate cost: $65 to $70
Tools: none, unless you decide to splice the extension cord wires.

I know. I know. I am a wimp for not cutting into my pristine dashboard but I just don't think it is worth it if I can do it this way.

trombe
06-15-2006, 11:32 PM
This is real nice!!!! Mine connects fine with the RoadTrip, but it's a bit far away to reach.

How about a picture from the other side where the wires come out and hook into the aux?

How stable is this setup? Is the iPod held in place pretty well by the Flexible Dock? I haven't seen one if these in real life...

Here's a question for one of the advanced mod'ers..... So let's suppose I wanted to permanently wire this in place without using the existing outlets on the passenger side.... can this be done without getting too complex?

ramblerdan
06-15-2006, 11:48 PM
Cool beans, SciJohn, and nice writeup. Because of the leverage the Ipod holder can put on the outlet, you might consider mounting it with Dual Lock (3M's genderless super Velcro).

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/eoc/dual_lock.gif (http://www.3m.com/3Msearch/3Mproduct/reclosable-fasteners)

SciJohn
06-16-2006, 12:07 AM
This is real nice!!!! Mine connects fine with the RoadTrip, but it's a bit far away to reach.

How about a picture from the other side where the wires come out and hook into the aux?

How stable is this setup? Is the iPod held in place pretty well by the Flexible Dock? I haven't seen one if these in real life...

Here's a question for one of the advanced mod'ers..... So let's suppose I wanted to permanently wire this in place without using the existing outlets on the passenger side.... can this be done without getting too complex?

I'll take a picture of the other end and post it tomorrow. You do see more cable on that side but I tied it down with a little velcro.

The Flexible Dock holds my 4th Gen 40GB iPod (i.e. a heavy one) quite nicely. It locks into the cradle.

I used to plug it in to the existing 12V outlet but it is a bit of a stretch to change playlists. It's a tight fit in the outlet over there so it does not wobble much. It has never disconnected on speed bumps or pot holes.

Since this extension outlet is a perfect fit heightwise, my iPod does not wobble much in its new location either. The shelf shares the weight burden with the stick on velcro on the extension outlet so I don't expect it to work itself loose any time soon.

If that happens, I will probably consider screwing it into its current location. If I screw it in, then I'll probably hot wire it in to the fuse box too. (gasp)


There are plenty of threads on adding a more permanent 12V outlet.
Check out this http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4179&highlight=add-a-circuit
There is even thread from a guy who tapped a Y cable into the back of the aux. jack so that he could move it somewhere else on the dash and have the original jack still function.

SciJohn
06-16-2006, 12:10 AM
Cool beans, SciJohn, and nice writeup. Because of the leverage the Ipod holder can put on the outlet, you might consider mounting it with Dual Lock (3M's genderless super Velcro).

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/temp/images/dual_lock.gif (http://www.3m.com/3Msearch/3Mproduct/reclosable-fasteners)

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I'll wait until this configuration looks like it is ready to give in. At that point, I might take the plunge and drill and hot wire. (Shudder)

SciJohn
06-16-2006, 11:46 AM
Ok, so here are the rest of the pictures as promised.

I wound the male / male mini audio cable inside the power outlet extension cable just to make it look neater.
I tied the cables off with a small twist-tie wedged in between the shelf and the under-dash. The black twist-tie came from the power outlet packaging. Yeah, I am cheap. :)
(see picture below)
19183

The next picture shows the whole installation including the path I took with the cabling. (Inside the subwoofer console)
19184

SciJohn
06-16-2006, 11:56 AM
Panavise makes a bracket that requires no holes for mounting. I picked up two of these. One mounts on each side of the radio. One will be for my phone and the other will be for my bluetooth GPS kit. It's a little pricey @ 24.00 each, but when when you consider drilling a hole in the dash............... i think it's cheap


Mitch

That works too. All you need is a charger / audio jack. You can hide the cables just like I did.

Proclip also makes all kinds of holders. They are kind of expensive but you can get ones where you can adjust the angle for better viewing.

I used the flexible dock because I had it before I bought the outlet extension.

FYI: Sound from the bottom connector on an iPod is much better than through the headphone jack. It also disables the volume control on the iPod so you only have the radio volume to fiddle with.

Empire
06-16-2006, 12:18 PM
If you did want to mount another power port closer to the driver without drilling a hole thru the actual dash you could do it thru the removeable fuse panel cover. It's only about 6" lower than where your current setup is mounted. The wires would be hidden even more so and a replacement panel is only a few dollars.

SciJohn
06-16-2006, 12:25 PM
If you did want to mount another power port closer to the driver without drilling a hole thru the actual dash you could do it thru the removeable fuse panel cover. It's only about 6" lower than where your current setup is mounted. The wires would be hidden even more so and a replacement panel is only a few dollars.

I thought about that. I even have an add-a-circuit but I figured that I had to run the audio back to the right side anyway. The extension cord came for the ride.

I agree, it would be a little neater.

lwclancers
06-17-2006, 01:07 AM
I agree with Empire. You can hide all those wires behind some removeable dash pieces so you dont even see them...you already moved the sub cover, just keep going and remove the rest of the necessary pieces and hide that long gastly twirly wire :D

sunspot
07-14-2006, 12:11 PM
Need some help here, if you please.
I bought an power outlet I want to put in my console. Can anyone let me know how to wire it up and the best place to hook up the power wire. I really like the E because of all the panels pop off. Great to run wires in.
Inculded in the package was a relay? (see picture). What is this for?
I want it fused and always hot.
Please keep it simple for me. TIA.:)

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/2346/picture912345007small9jk.jpg

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/3369/picture9123450067small5ox.jpg

lizzurd
07-14-2006, 12:49 PM
Is it a honda outlet or an after market one?

rymo926
07-14-2006, 01:02 PM
what you have there seems to be the add a rear outlet to non-ex model. the relay is to plug into the spot that's already filled since you have a ex. the wiring for the rear outlet is hot but the relay is hooked up to the ignition(like the headlights and switch). this relay is located behind the glove, and you can modifiy to be always hot so the rear outlet will always be on. you can tap into that fuse now or do the mod and tap into the wiring going to the rear outlet depending on location of the new outlet.

on a side note-i tap into that fuse (not knowing it was hot) for my amp. and it took 2 weeks to finally drain the battery(happened yesterday). it was tap into the front outlet, then i got a garmin for the front and switch tap fuse. they are wired totally different. why would they do that?

sunspot
07-14-2006, 01:26 PM
It's a Honda outlet. I belive it's for adding one in the back but I want to install in the center console.
So I don't need the relay?:confused:

Wangofree
07-14-2006, 01:36 PM
Hey Dana,
I hear what you want to do...you might look at this thread and take a close look at the connections. This might be a good place to start if you want to add a power outlet to your console. I know this isn't exactly what you're trying to do, but the photographs of the area you need to work in may be helpful.

http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~joel/fun/element/RearOutletWire/rearoutletwire.htm

Hope you figure it out.

Mike

sunspot
07-14-2006, 02:57 PM
Thanks Mike.
Looks like I need to make a stop to buy an add a link. Most likely I can do this now. I wasn't sure about the relay I was sent. :-?

rymo926
07-14-2006, 03:44 PM
so yea, add a line to rear acc in the fuse panel and your set.

future reference, if adding to the rear of the car, do mod and there would be two hot outlet plus a lot less wire to run.

bgottschall
07-16-2006, 11:34 AM
I have added 2 power outlets to my center console, one rear facing, and one forward facing - both hot all the time. I have had no problems with power drain.

I also added an outlet to the dash in the space immediately to the right of the steering wheel. I use this outlet solely for my iPod with a http://www.dlo.com/Products/TP_black_Prod.tpl?command=showpage&cart=11530639551053704 which places the iPod at perfect height and position for use without having eyes and hands out of position while driving.

I ran a heavy wire direct to the positive terminal of the battery with a 30A fuse and landed it under the dash on the driver's side. I used a simple wiring path from the passanger compartment through the front fender to the engine compartment. I landed this on a mounting stud and then distributed power from there to each of the outlets using 10A fuses on those lines.

All outlets were grounded with self tapping screws in the immediate vicinity of their mounting locations.

The pathing for the center console was simple - through the dash and then under the factory mat to the console (remove the sub woofer, it makes fishing under the mat about 10,000% easier). I then used a set of male/female bullet connectors to finish out the install so that I can still fully disconnect and remove the console if needed.

Pathing to the dash outlet was obvious.

Gilboy
10-07-2006, 09:34 PM
As soon as I picked up my 07 I knew I needed to do this. How can you charge something if the outlet goes off with the car? I put it on the rear so the cell phone could lay in that compartment. One improvement that no one mentioned is I put quick disconnects on the wires so I can remove the center cup holder tray when (not if) it gets coffee soda, etc spilled in it and needs to be hosed out. I also have a picture of the unibit in case someone didn't know what one was.

wli98122
10-08-2006, 11:34 PM
That is a nice neat install on the center console. Don't forget the fuse! esp if it is always *on*

Gilboy
10-09-2006, 08:37 AM
The fuse is in the add a circuit power tap at the fuse panel. Good point though. I don't know how many times I've see "tuner" or other cars in flames and I think... The kid probably did not fuse protect something, or did not use loom, or did not solder and heat shrink his connections. or did not use a grommet, or used wire taps...

Element Art
12-10-2006, 10:58 PM
I just wired in an extra outlet in the center console too. I put mine in next to the second drink holder. Mostly for my son's Game Boy and an LCD DVD player we use on trips. ...also for cell chargers. I still need to pull the wires under the floor when I get more time. I have them under the front mat temporarily. It felt great to rip out my 3 plug adapter that I had above the glove box. I also put an extra fuse in the line next to the outlet inside the console.

Timg
12-19-2006, 11:44 AM
Newby here. I also would like to put an auziliary socket onto the dash, but to the left of the steering wheel. I have the parts, including an add-a-circuit.

I do not understand the basic wiring. From the fuse block/add-a-circuit to the socket to the ground?

ramblerdan
12-19-2006, 12:14 PM
From the fuse block/add-a-circuit to the socket to the ground?
That sounds right. Just make sure the polarity is correct (the right wires on the socket go to positive and ground). Electronic gadgets are fussy about that.

Rocket Dog
12-22-2006, 02:06 PM
As soon as I picked up my 07 I knew I needed to do this. How can you charge something if the outlet goes off with the car? I put it on the rear so the cell phone could lay in that compartment. One improvement that no one mentioned is I put quick disconnects on the wires so I can remove the center cup holder tray when (not if) it gets coffee soda, etc spilled in it and needs to be hosed out. I also have a picture of the unibit in case someone didn't know what one was.

Is that a unibit on your drill in the first picture?

Gilboy
12-22-2006, 06:46 PM
Yes, it's a unibit

GreenElement13
01-14-2007, 11:48 AM
Pretty cool stuff. I am still looking for the right mount/holder for my 30 gig pod, havn't found one yet. I don't think I want the 3 outlets by the steering wheel, but it looks like your happy with the set-up!

SciJohn
01-14-2007, 11:53 AM
Pretty cool stuff. I am still looking for the right mount/holder for my 30 gig pod, havn't found one yet. I don't think I want the 3 outlets by the steering wheel, but it looks like your happy with the set-up!

Before I got the triple outlet, I plugged the Ten Technology iPod adapter right into the lighter outlet.
It worked ok there but I really wanted to keep my eyes on the road. :)

SciJohn
01-28-2007, 07:10 PM
OK. I am resurrecting my thread because I have a simple question for the electronics modders.

I think I would like to take the plunge and hard wire my 3 port outlet to the fuse box. I have an add-a-circuit. I would like to cut the plug off the outlet and hook it up to the add-a-circuit but does anyone know which wire is the positive and which is the negative?

I could open up the plug and find out which wire connects to the end of the plug and which one connects to the side but I still don't know which one is supposed to be hot.

The end or the side?

28417

Does anyone know?
Thanks in advance. :)

bh241
01-28-2007, 07:39 PM
OK. I am resurrecting my thread because I have a simple question for the electronics modders.

I think I would like to take the plunge and hard wire my 3 port outlet to the fuse box. I have an add-a-circuit. I would like to cut the plug off the outlet and hook it up to the add-a-circuit but does anyone know which wire is the positive and which is the negative?

I could open up the plug and find out which wire connects to the end of the plug and which one connects to the side but I still don't know which one is supposed to be hot.

The end or the side?

28417

Does anyone know?
Thanks in advance. :)

The tip as indicated in the picture is + 12v the sides are gound.

drPheta
03-14-2007, 01:49 PM
Weeee, I just installed two sockets in the stock center console/cupholder areas.

Plugged them into fuse for the accessory rear socket using add-a-circuit, and now they're both always on.

While I was at it, I also "hardwired" my Garmin Nuvi to the fuse for the front accessory socket, add-a-circuit, and a spliced accessory socket (so that I wouldn't have to cut the Garmin supplied car adapter).

Sweet.

lefty
04-25-2007, 06:53 PM
Can cross another mod off my list.
Just finished instaling 2 always-on power outlets on each side of the steering wheel in the cubby holes. Did the rear always-on yesterday...

Pretty easy mod. Used Add-A-Circuit in the #2 fuse spot, a wire tap to get power to both outlets from the one line off the Add-A-Circuit and 2, flush mount power outlets I got from the local boat store.

Brent
06-21-2007, 09:35 AM
at first I thought I was going a bit overboard with the power sockets so I'm glad I found this thread.

I'm not much for drilling into my dash but I did find a clean under dash dual and single socket outlets at my local auto parts store.

I mounted a dual socket just under the dash over the hood release. Since they are small there is no kicking/knee clearance issues and it doesn't interfere with reaching down to release the hood.

I have either an IPOD or my portable sirius receiver powered up on the existing dash socket and wanted to have a spot to charge my cell phone and a radar detector (heh...needing a radar detector for my element....I can dream can't I?)

The kids need a power adapter for the DVD player so I mounted a single to the floor just under the back of the drivers seat to the right of the rear passenger a/c exhaust vent.

Since the rears seats are so far back, I don't think there is any worry of someone kicking this and it gives me a chance to keep all the wires, etc neatly tucked under the drivers seat. The seat has to be all the way forward for it to be exposed. I grounded it to the frame and ran the heavy guage hot wire under the moulding to the fuse box for the add-a-circuit.

So I have a total of 5 now in the car.

It would seem that convenience is a big deal to element owners.

Blank
10-12-2007, 03:14 PM
i realy want to do this mod next to the steering wheel, but i am not that electronicly (or spelling) inclined. Is this an easy mod? can some give me a little more heads up on how to do this so i dont **** anything up, or if any one knows anyone in chicago that could give me a hand? Thanks! Much Love For The E'S!!!!!!!!

In a nutshell, plug Add-A-Circuit into the desired fuse slot. (Check the fuse cover to see which you would like to tap into) Connect a wire of the same gauge (thickness) of the A-A-C to your desired length of red wire to the spot where you want to mount the socket. Connect the red wire to the red wire on the socket. Then, take some black wire and connect it to the black wire on the socket. (Easy, ain't it?). Lastly, take the other end of the black wire and attach it (using a ring terminal or something like it) to a bolt that screws into the chassis (basically, any bare metal of the car). For you, there's a grounding point under the dash, to the right of the steering wheel and left of the shifter/AC controls. Test it out before you mount it.

If you want an always on socket, do the Rear Socket Always-On mod and tap into it's fuse with the A-A-C.

liv2surf
12-27-2007, 10:51 AM
I just wired in an extra outlet in the center console too. I put mine in next to the second drink holder. Mostly for my son's Game Boy and an LCD DVD player we use on trips. ...also for cell chargers. I still need to pull the wires under the floor when I get more time. I have them under the front mat temporarily. It felt great to rip out my 3 plug adapter that I had above the glove box. I also put an extra fuse in the line next to the outlet inside the console.

what does he mean by routing the wires under the floor as opposed to under the front mat (temporarily) ? does he mean under the factory mats (for permanent) ? Thanks.

Element Art
12-27-2007, 11:25 AM
what does he mean by routing the wires under the floor as opposed to under the front mat (temporarily) ? does he mean under the factory mats (for permanent) ? Thanks.

Yup, you fish them under the stock vinyl floor. I used my "fish tape" that I use for running wires in my house walls. It is a flat metal that you push under the flooring and then attach wires and pull back under. You could use a coat hanger for fishing the wires. I think I went from the center console area to the sub woofer area...that was the shortest distance.

Free_man_E
02-06-2008, 05:19 PM
Well live and learn. :-x

I was trying to figure out where some noise was coming from when my
laptop was connected to auxiliary input jack. The noise is verry noticeable
with the radio volume is above #12 or higher. I thought it might be comming
from the wiring behind the dash. Anyway it turned out that the noise is
coming from the radio itself and there is nothing I can do about it, short of
replacing it with a aftermarket radio. The noise was there even if I had
nothing connetcted except the 3.5mm Mini Stereo Plug cord by itself.

__________________________________________________ _______________

So I had read in other threads that to remove the auxiliary input, the
12V power jack had to be pried out first.(With great difficulty!) Then the
auxiliary input can be removed next. Anyway now the 12V power jack
dosn't fit as snugly as it did before I removed it, because the plastic
around the mounting hole is deformed. (Of corse after I had pried, prodded
pulled and poked at the 12V power jack assembly) I found out there was a
easier way to remove the 12V plug.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Step one.> Remove the plastic side cover between the door and dash.
46381
Step two.> Remove screw on right side of upper trim beside the A/C vent.
46382
Step three.> Remove the two screws that are under the upper trim piece.
46383
After all three screws are removed then pull off the trim starting from
the bottem left and work your way (carefully) to the right side of the trim.
There are several snaps holding it in place. Also there is a A/C vent tube
thats attached to the back side of the trim piece that has to be maneuvered
through a hole in the dash.

Free_man_E
02-06-2008, 05:30 PM
Step four.> Remove the four screws marked with the arrows.
46388
Step five.> Remove plastic cover. There are some snaps holding it in in the back.
46389
Step six.> There is now a access hole that you can use to reach the
back side of the 12V jack.
46390

Free_man_E
02-06-2008, 06:14 PM
Now here is the good part. (You know, the one where I go DUHH!!)
__________________________________________________ ______________
There are two notches on the inside of the 12V socket that are part of the
latch assembly that hold the metal part of the 12V jack to the plastic
piece of the 12V jack assembly.
See arrows in this picture.
46391
First you push from the back side of the plug from the access hole.
And at the same time you push in at the plastic latches with a small
screwdriver from inside of the plug. Alternate back and forth between
the left and right inside hole with the screwdriver, while rocking the plug
from the back side.
46392
If your successful the metal part of the plug should pop out like this.
46393
Once the the metal plug is removed by pushing it all the way through
the plastic part of the assembly, this will release two more latches
that are on top and bottom of the 12V jack. These latches are what
secure the 12V jack to the dash. Then the plastic piece of the 12V jack
should be mutch easier to remove.
Then the auxiliary audio jack can be popped out with a screwdriver on the
right side of the plug. It's held in by metal spring clips.

Also when reassembling the 12V plug. First insert the plastic piece into the
dash, then push the metal piece in next. Make shure the clocking notches
are aligned.(See the red arrow in above picture)
Then reassemble the rest of the dash in reverse order.

lwclancers
02-06-2008, 09:23 PM
Indeed! Its the easiest way to do a lot by removing those dash pieces. I did the same when I added some LEDs to that black/flat part that creates the "bottom of that top piece." You can also use that area to easily run wires from outside to inside, like for a nav or satellite radio system!

If you wanted to go from that area down, its quite easy to remove the glove compartment to get access to lower wires from up top.

perfdata
02-07-2008, 04:50 PM
Has anyone removed both of these and put a cover on the opening? If so, what did you use to cover the hole?

Free_man_E
02-07-2008, 09:54 PM
Has anyone removed both of these and put a cover on the opening? If so, what did you use to cover the hole?

I haven't removed them before, but they sell ABS plastic sheets that can
be cut and shaped to cover the hole.

See link>
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=752&i=1208900903&c=11&tp=2114

Import04Si
02-09-2008, 06:38 PM
Do you have the Xm Radio hooked up to your custom 12V outlet? If so you could of hardwired the XM Radio 12V socket. It is ver simple and since your handy you could probably do it.

First you take apart the 12V socket adapter and find the pos and neg.
Second you soder one wire on the pos and one on the neg.
Third you put the socket back together and hook it up to a power source and ground out the neg.

blueboy
02-09-2008, 08:53 PM
I found an E on a junk yard and pulled the Aux-ligther outlets ($2).
Last weekend I added to my 2008 EX-E and installed both at the rear on the console.
The Aux-ligther outlets work really well and now I can plug it to the DVD player for my kid in the back w/o having all those wires all over the place.

As soon as I get a chance I'll post some pics.

liv2surf
03-06-2008, 02:37 AM
is this receptacle www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=265-274&scqty=2 OK or is the more expensive one http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=265-236 more more appropriate ?

does the rectangular plate come off both if I only want a cylinder coming out through my console ?

g13
04-21-2008, 11:03 PM
how did you get the 12v outlet nice and tight? I can only slide mine in and it wiggles a little

Snuffleupagus
04-21-2008, 11:56 PM
how did you get the 12v outlet nice and tight? I can only slide mine in and it wiggles a little

What style of outlet do you have?

Many models like this one have an outer cylinder and an inner core that you can unscrew from each other to separate.

52002

You insert the core through the hole you drilled. The core will have a small lip on the edge of the outlet opening that will hold it in place. Screw on the outer cylinder from the other side of the surface holding the outlet tight enough to keep it from moving and wiggling.

Snuffleupagus
04-22-2008, 12:00 AM
I added an add-a-circuit to the fuse box for mine.

One of these:
52006

g13
04-22-2008, 12:02 AM
i got one at auto zone. Looks similar to the one pictured at t he begining of this post next to his steering wheel. it has a lip on the front end but nothing on the back end. I think i might get one of the marine ones or just look for a different modle. Drilling the whole was scary, didnt want to f up my baby.

g13
04-22-2008, 12:04 AM
where can i pick one up at. And does the 12 volt just attach to the blue wire? Sorry im realy new to all this. But thanks for all your help Snuffy!!

Snuffleupagus
04-22-2008, 12:09 AM
i got one at auto zone. Looks similar to the one pictured at t he begining of this post next to his steering wheel. it has a lip on the front end but nothing on the back end. I think i might get one of the marine ones or just look for a different modle. Drilling the whole was scary, didnt want to f up my baby.

I think I've seen that one in the very first post before.

If I am right and that outlet is what I am thinking of, you can stick your thumb inside the core to hold it in place and start twisting the outer cylinder. It should screw off. Give it a try.

PS most instructions will not tell you that. You just have to look at it and either know to try before hand or guess.

Snuffleupagus
04-22-2008, 12:40 AM
I got my add-a-circuit from pep boys, but most large autoparts stores will most likely have them.

Here is how I did it when I installed a dedicated power for my Nuvi 760..

First take a look at Ramblerdan's really cool website, specifically the page about the fuse box under the dash. Click here (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/udfrb.htm). You will see that Fuse # 2 is for the rear accessory outlet and Fuse # 18 is for the front outlet. I removed the fuse in the # 18 slot and plugged the add-a-circuit in it's place. Instruction in the package is easy to follow. You may need to buy a fuse if the kit doesn't already come with one.

You connect your positive lead (red) from your addon outlet to the lead (red) coming from the add-a-circuit. That blue object on the red wire in the picture is one of those squeeze connectors, if you are not familiar with them. Insert your wire and squeeze real tight with a pair of pliers. Then you take the negative lead (black) from the outlet and connect that to a grounding point on the car.

A lot of those outlet kits do not have a long enough negative lead wire (black) on them so you will most likely have to extend it. I used 16 gauge wire. Most exposed metal will do for a grounding point. I used the actual ground points already in the car.

There are two ground points you can readily access underneath the driver's side dash. If you take a peek under the dash and look towards the center console, you will see a bolt with multiple wires attached to it. That is one. If you look towards the door, you will see another bolt with wires attached to it. That is number two. I used number one.

Hope that helps! :)

g13
04-22-2008, 10:39 AM
i think my outlet only came with a neg. lead and no posotive.

g13
04-22-2008, 12:51 PM
does anyone have the part number for the add-a-circuit. Ive bought 2 and neither of them are the right ones. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Snuffleupagus
04-22-2008, 01:29 PM
i think my outlet only came with a neg. lead and no posotive.

Never seen that before. Do you atleast have a place to attach wires to? Easy enough to attach wires.

does anyone have the part number for the add-a-circuit. Ive bought 2 and neither of them are the right ones. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You need the mini blade ones. Give me a few minutes to do some searching. I'll post back when I find something.

EDIT:
Ok, I couldn't find the specific part numbers for pep boys or autozone. But here are a few links to give you an idea of what it is you're looking for.

Parts Express: Littelfuse Add-a-circuit for mini fuse (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=071-585)

Amazon.com: Bussman BP/HHH ATM Add-a-fuse (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXK2/ref=pd_cp_e_1?pf_rd_p=250314601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000FIWAP0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1RQSDSVWNPT2TCTD8A14)

g13
04-22-2008, 02:44 PM
with the add a fuse do you use a standard fuse on the back end of it or a different kind. Also i had the mini add-a-circuit but when i put it in the fuse spot it was realy loose? I wish this whole thing was eaiser. Thanks for all your help

Snuffleupagus
04-22-2008, 04:44 PM
with the add a fuse do you use a standard fuse on the back end of it or a different kind.

You use the same type fuse. It's 10amp max.

Also i had the mini add-a-circuit but when i put it in the fuse spot it was realy loose?

The loose feeling should be ok as long as you can feel it making contact with the metal contacts in the slot as you push it in. I've owned previous cars that had fuse boxes like that.

But sometimes the loose feeling is because it's not yet fully in but feels like it's. Just make sure you push it all the way in.

I wish this whole thing was eaiser. Thanks for all your help

No sweat! That's what this club is here for. :)

g13
04-23-2008, 09:50 AM
Ok it totatly worked. After 8 trips to auto zone and me realizing i was just being worried, i got it all figured out. The loose feeling was because before i took the fuse out of 18 i put the add-a-circuit into 16 and it was loose. I was just testing to see if it was the right size. And yes it is the basic fuse, but when i got supplies i bought some extra fuses that i thought were standard, but were to big. All is well now and i have power running through. Thanks a ton, and ill try to post some pics soon!!!




Next mod--- HD lower grille

a2j812
10-17-2008, 08:55 AM
I just did the DIY accessory plug mod. That was one of the easiest things I've ever done. I installed of the marine grade outlets. One on either side of the front of the console between the seats. Thanks to everybody for posting such great instructions and ideas. You all rock!

phlymation
10-19-2008, 01:22 AM
I've been looking for an outlet to add to my console and I haven't found any that I felt would mount securely... Where did you purchase yours?

NV_05_AWD
10-19-2008, 01:55 AM
Check out the Boating / Marine sites... tons of them with differnt caps etc...

a2j812
10-20-2008, 05:01 PM
I didn't have time to snap any pictures during the install, but it was vERY easy to do. Get yourself a wire coat hanger to run the wire under the floor and you will save yourself a lot of trouble and time. I got my plugs from partsexpress.com.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=265-274

Totally worth it! I like the quality of the socket very much.

I used a couple of add-a-circuit's to tie in the electricity. I put one on the radio's fuse slot and that is off when the car is off. The other one I plugged into the TPMS slot and that is always on.

Espina
10-20-2008, 09:29 PM
...just finished mine to day too:
...Removed the power socket and aux by pressing on the back of the socket to give enough "play" to lever 1st the socket cover, and 2nd, the Aux assembly using a long handled flat head screw driver covered in tape with a cloth covered putty knife to protect the dash plastic. The Aux & Socket covers are intertwined so the socket has to come off first.
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/7968/img0157ql2.jpg
Reamed out the old aux hole a bit so the "3.5mm Y" harness would fit. Trimmed back the 3.5 mm female insulation so it would snap into the reamed hole. Then filled the back of the aux cover & bracket assembly with Gorilla glue for structure. Glued the original aux socket parts (sans bracket & cover) together, taped it over with electrical tape, and pushed it back into the dash just behind its original spot. Hooked the 3.5 mm Y into it. One female of the "Y" went to the aux cover and the other hooked into a 3.5 mm extension cable that snaked to the other side of the stereo head unit. Used another "Y" at the other side, and the unused female will eventually hook up with the SC console. The new 12v socket power came from the original dash 12v socket using a fused wiring loom. The SC console 12v will also splice into this fused wiring loom.
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/8352/img0161se9.jpg
Some of the Gorilla glue oozed thru in spite of the tape. I'll have to trim it later. Note the trim damage from a 5in1 tool prying try!!
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/4611/img0162tz0.jpg
The iPhone socket adapter does "spin" in the socket which is why I placed it in this spot so to brace it.
http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/994/img0163ho3.jpg


WARNING

Hooking more than one device into the various spliced (Y) aux inputs will instantly create a wormhole that will immediately teleport you to an evil parallel universe. Even if the units are "power off" you will be only partially teleported.

phlymation
10-26-2008, 09:13 PM
I didn't have time to snap any pictures during the install, but it was vERY easy to do. Get yourself a wire coat hanger to run the wire under the floor and you will save yourself a lot of trouble and time. I got my plugs from partsexpress.com.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=265-274

Totally worth it! I like the quality of the socket very much.

I used a couple of add-a-circuit's to tie in the electricity. I put one on the radio's fuse slot and that is off when the car is off. The other one I plugged into the TPMS slot and that is always on.

Picked up a socket at a local marine supply store this weekend. Put the new socket in the rear tray of the floor cup holder / console. Running the wire from the add-a-circuit was a chore even with the coat hanger.

Thanks for pointing me to the socket, much better than anything I found in the auto parts stores.

a2j812
10-28-2008, 08:21 AM
Glad you got it all squared away. I know how difficult getting that wire under the floor can be. I found it a HUGE help to remove the sub-woofer for that. I love having my two extra sockets. I'm using them a lot just because of the location. It's a little more convenient for me having them right there at arms length.

mrsafety
11-20-2008, 12:31 PM
I added a 12V outlet to the right of the shifter so that it was within my reach. Its wired to the ignition with an in-line 10A fuse.

I use it for a handsfree speaker phone and mobile tunes.

I use the Belkin TuneBase FM for iPhone or iPod.The mount has a FM transmitter, but I still prefer to use the AUX input jack for better quality audio. When calls come through the music pauses and the handsfree speaker phone through the cars speakers takes over, then music resumes after the call. It has a swivel so it can be positioned long or tall and the mount is really stiff so no wobble or bounce.

Love it.:grin:

ZOMBIEinvader
11-20-2008, 12:35 PM
Looks great.
Because I have a MT it would be too crowded for me. If I had an AT though I would not hesitate to do your set up. Because of my MT I have been mounting things off to the right or left of the center console

hogdrafter
11-20-2008, 02:43 PM
were did you purchace this? i am wondering if it will work for my instinct?

mrsafety
11-20-2008, 06:12 PM
Got it from Future Shop. It's on the belkin website. It has an ipod connector for charging / powering /fm transmitting the iphone / ipod
http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=457256

ayf
01-10-2009, 11:18 PM
Nice job, I moved my hazard switch and installed the power outlet there. I used an AAC to fuse #2, so that its alway "hot". The outlet is a Honda OEM for the back outlet, I couldn't find any good quality ones anywhere else. The hazard switch hole is larger than the outlet, so I wrapped some "fusion tape" around the outlet and snugged it in. I moved the hazard switch to panel under the radio, because my fog light switch was lonely.:lol: I probably have to do it again, not satisfied with look.

TSac
07-01-2009, 07:05 PM
I'm seeking info regarding adding another 12V outlet to the front dash; hopefully in the recess between the steering column and the console. I've discovered a possible point of access via the fuse panel, but am unsure at this point where it's feasible to punch a hole there and how to hook up the wiring, with an eye to having power only when the ignition is on. I'm interested in this for plugging my Bluetooth, in to which I speak directly, rather than having it on the other side of the console.

If anyone can help, I appreciate it. Pictures and step by step are always helpful to this novice.

Thank you.

Yoda E SC
07-01-2009, 10:50 PM
pop the panel under the steering column out and feel up behind there. the area you are talking about putting the extra outlet is part of the main dash assembly so you cant just take it out to cut your hole. you may want to consider putting it in a more easily replacable panel but if not just make sure you are clear behind there before drilling. use a unibit/stepbit to make your hole not a hole saw as they allow for better control and less chance the drill will walk and make the hole bigger than you expected. as far as connections are you wanting it switched with the ignition or are you going for constant power? the best place to grab power would be right there at the ignition harness for either one. the heavy gauge white wire is constant 12v (+) and the black/yellow heavy gauge wire is true ignition, meaning it has power when the key in is "on" (not acc) and during start. If you want accessory that is the heavy gauge white/red wire. all these wires are found in the main ignition wiring harness that is accessible when you remove the under steering column panel. although these are the colors given by honda they along with any wiring should be tested with a digital multimeter before hooking to them. make sure you put a fuse in line with your new outlet within 10 inches of your connection to any of these power wires as they are all high current (fused at 50 amps main).

buttermilk
09-24-2009, 09:30 AM
I added a power outlet to the driver's side for my gps so I wouldn't have wires hanging all over the place. The location was perfect. Nothing behind the dash in that area and easy to get my hand in behind it. Also close to the fuse panel. I got the outlet at Walmart and got the fuse tap at Advance Auto for $6.99. It's a Buss Fuses HHH Accessory Mini Add-A-Line. BP/HHH. It makes for a real easy separate fused connection.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/power1.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/power2.jpg

buttermilk
09-29-2009, 06:43 AM
The fuse panel door just below the steering wheel has two knobs. Just turn them clockwise 1/4 turn and the whole panel comes off. That leaves a lot of room to get your hand behind the panel.

Kira
09-29-2009, 10:13 PM
i need another outlet, but I always use that spot for my business cards

zulu226
11-27-2009, 07:31 PM
ok how did you pull apart the console to do this? I don't want to break anything.

ramblerdan
11-28-2009, 12:17 AM
Search phrase "remove shifter panel" returned a few useful posts, including this one (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=156002).

gotgills
01-01-2010, 11:21 AM
Hey

I've done a lot of searching and want to mimic an easy setup like what he did:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24719&page=3

But I want it to look a little cleaner. My goal is to get a similar unit like he has but I want to run the wires internally and maybe even tap into the fuse box like someone had suggested he do. I'm savy with DIY but not so savy with electrical stuff, so I was hoping someone could dummy proof this for me.

If I get an add-a-circuit I can then splice the end of the 12V accessory into that and just plug it into my fuse box? If so, anyone know the part numbers?

Some help would be most greatly appreciated. BTW its a '10 element, in case that changes anything.

Kristen

Dom.five
01-01-2010, 11:54 AM
I think this (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53169&highlight=12V+accessory+olug) post will help you out!

Dom

gotgills
01-01-2010, 12:09 PM
Thanks for that great link - I hadn't found that thread in my search. Keyword selection...

So if I read that correctly, I just need to do this:

Setup - power:

1. Install an add-a-fuse (w/ 10a fuse, may need to buy separately) to slot #18 (fuse for front 12v outlet) in the under dash fuse box.
2. Mount the distribution block on a nice flat spot underneath the steering column (same spot as Genome's mounting point for 12v power socket here, post #3). (see Figure 1)
3. Mount the 12v power socket on the opposite side of that flat spot underneath - LED light on Garmin plug gives a nice soft glow in the foot well. (see Figure 1 - not visible but underneath the distribution block)
4. Connect the add-a-fuse to the distribution block.
5. Run a ground wire from the distribution block to chassis.
6. Connect the 12v power socket to the distribution block.

What does he mean when he says 'distribution block'? The pics on the other thread are missing so I can't tell what he means by that.

gotgills
01-01-2010, 12:18 PM
One other question - I assume you can chop the wire and splice it directly into the add a fuse or does there need to be something between the add-a-fuse and the spliced wire on the outlet?

buttermilk
01-01-2010, 02:16 PM
Get one of these at Advance Auto for $6.99. You just remove a fuse and plug it in where the fuse went. Then plug the fuse you removed and the fuse for the new stuff into it.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/fusetap.jpg


http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/power2.jpg

Dom.five
01-01-2010, 05:19 PM
One other question - I assume you can chop the wire and splice it directly into the add a fuse or does there need to be something between the add-a-fuse and the spliced wire on the outlet?


You can cut the end off, ( if your unit does NOT have traffic ) . Or you can get Lighter plug with wires on it to splice to the Add-a-fuse. That will keep the plug intact. That way you can use in another car, if you travel, or rent one.

The other option is to go on line and get another power cord for the unit. In case you want to use it in a rental.


Dom

ramblerdan
03-22-2010, 11:57 AM
Just added another power outlet and thought I'd share. Installation was just a wee bit tricky because the rear sleeve has to be screwed onto the main body of the outlet from behind, and space is tight back there.

The center (+) lead goes to Fuse #3, always on, rated for 15A. The fuse is intended for the Canadian DRL, so is unused in U.S. cars.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/eoc/power_outlet.gifhttp://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/spacer10.gifhttp://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/eoc/power_outlet02.gif

Rick92040
03-22-2010, 12:25 PM
I use the usa spec found here http://www.usaspec.com/page.php?PageID=19
Set it up inside my glove box and it works with my xm radio. And I can use my steering wheel controls.

g13
03-22-2010, 01:09 PM
I did this too but I did drill a hole and add an outlet and add-a-circuit. But it works awesome and I love having it closer.

SciJohn
03-22-2010, 03:20 PM
Hey guys,
I eventually got brave and installed a new outlet in the cup holder console last year. I used the same Marine 12V Outlet you did Rambler. I snaked the power and audio wires under the floor mat. It was a piece of cake. It works great with my iTouch & Belkin iPod mount (Tunebase) http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=492842

The Belkin also works in the factory / shelf 12V outlet. It is not too far away and right next to the radio.

I'll add a picture in my next post.

Now I want to put an outlet on the left side of the steering wheel for my GPS or Droid.

I never stop poking around with my E. :)

SciJohn
03-22-2010, 04:18 PM
Here are the two ways I can use the Belkin Tune Dock.
In dash:

78054


In console with added outlet:

78055

Somuchtwosay
04-02-2010, 08:12 PM
Hey guys I just have a few questions regarding installing another 12v outlet. I would like to add the West Marine outlet or something similar down by the center console, or right above the subwoofer. I would also like to hardwire my GPS on the left side of the steering wheel, because I have it mounted by my inspection sticker. The question is, if I use the extra canadian DRL circuit for the second 12v outlet, where could I hardwire the GPS to? I don't necessarily need them to be live without the car on, i'd actually prefer that their not always on. I would probably kill my battery. I have never attempted any wiring MODS, but my friend used to work for Honda, and he would help me. Anyone who could fill me in on what relays and fuses I would need to tap into would really help me out. Thanks in advance. :-)

Joe

Snuffleupagus
04-02-2010, 09:49 PM
Hey guys I just have a few questions regarding installing another 12v outlet. I would like to add the West Marine outlet or something similar down by the center console, or right above the subwoofer. I would also like to hardwire my GPS on the left side of the steering wheel, because I have it mounted by my inspection sticker. The question is, if I use the extra canadian DRL circuit for the second 12v outlet, where could I hardwire the GPS to? I don't necessarily need them to be live without the car on, i'd actually prefer that their not always on. I would probably kill my battery. I have never attempted any wiring MODS, but my friend used to work for Honda, and he would help me. Anyone who could fill me in on what relays and fuses I would need to tap into would really help me out. Thanks in advance. :-)

Joe

You can use fuse #18 if you want it powered only when the key is inserted and turned.

I hardwired my GPS with a setup that is hidden under the dash. See this thread.
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53169

ramblerdan
04-02-2010, 11:23 PM
Switched power sources are more plentiful than always-on ones are.

Add-A-Circuit is your friend.

mmjcarr
05-10-2010, 04:02 PM
I'm thinking about installed an extra 12v outlet right next to the gear shifter. The same spot as the emergency flasher but the opposite side.

Any reasons why I should or could not?

ReaperZune8
05-10-2010, 04:07 PM
mm,

The only issue might be space and mounting. Theres a lot of stuffs right there in the middle of the E under all that plastic. If you decide to do this, i would reccomend taking everything apart and carefully measuring all spaces/distances/etc and figure what youre going to mount it to BEFORE drilling any holes. DO NOT drill any holes while those plastic pieces are still on your car. Wouldnt want you to cut into any wires n such.

Also, see the 12v Socket Sticky thread for additional ideas.

ramblerdan
05-10-2010, 05:13 PM
CoffeeDragon did a similar swap on his shifter panel. Thread here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27510). You won't have to do all the work he did just to relocate the stock 4-way flasher switch, but it appears that there is room behind that panel for the switch. Even so, Reaper's caution is good: Pull the panel before drilling.

buttermilk
05-10-2010, 06:26 PM
The Walmart version worked fine for me. If you place it in the hole to the right of the steering column, there's nothing in the way back there and you can easily get your hand in there to install it.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/power1.jpg

fightingzero
05-14-2010, 12:54 PM
(thought I'd give this thread a useful title) ;)

I currently have the panel-mount 12V outlet mounted to the right of the steering column. The 12V outlet is from Radio Shack...

This is my first time tearing into the electrical. I know that I want to tap into fuse block #18, which is what I understand to be the interior/passenger side 12v outlet.

A few things:
1. Is there an easier way to access the interior fuse panel? It's mounted way up in there, and I can't make out what's what.

2. I could simply just tap into the wires if I knew what color hot/ground were; no prob if I just knew what they looked like.

I've seen other postings on this and trying to make sense of it all.

Any help is appreciated.

Takers?

-Scott

buttermilk
05-14-2010, 01:55 PM
Go to the parts store and get a fuse tap like the one shown below.

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/fusetap.jpg

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/mccoysphotos/power2.jpg

fightingzero
05-14-2010, 02:26 PM
Boooyah! Did exactly that! Thank you!

I connected the (+).

Do I still have to ground the new 12v outlet? I'm guessing so.... please correct me if I'm wrong.

BigAl205
05-15-2010, 10:13 AM
Boooyah! Did exactly that! Thank you!

I connected the (+).

Do I still have to ground the new 12v outlet? I'm guessing so.... please correct me if I'm wrong.
Only if you want it to work :razz:

Center is +, outer cup is -

tgbrendaj
06-02-2010, 05:23 AM
Is there a utility ower plug installation kit out there that can be installed in the front dash, next to the original utility plug? I have a 2003 Element.

dammitjim
06-02-2010, 09:05 AM
You can buy socket kits at any auto parts store and just tap into the wires for the existing socket. I'd probably get a stock one from honda because the cover would match.

Other options are get a 2 or 3 way splitter:
http://www.amazon.com/Socket-Converter-Cigarette-Lighter-Splitter/dp/B000RB7C4E

Or get the socket kit from an auto parts store and install it behind the dash and plug into that one something that is permanently in the car or has a power cord you can leave in the car.

viking vol
08-14-2010, 08:18 PM
I'd been planning to do this for a couple of years, but I never could get around to it. I finally did it today and I was surprised how easy it was. I put one in the cubby to the right of the steering wheel (#18 ) and one in the console (#3). I ran the wire for the console under the seat and under the door molding. I connected to the fuse box with an add-a-circuit. I just followed what everyone on here said to do and it was a piece of cake. I used Parts Express marine outlets like everyone else. The hardest part for me was getting the hole drilled in the console. Thanks to everyone for providing such good instructions!! If I can do this, anybody can do it!!

AztecRol
08-14-2010, 09:15 PM
I'd been planning to do this for a couple of years, but I never could get around to it. I finally did it today and I was surprised how easy it was. I put one in the cubby to the right of the steering wheel (#18 ) and one in the console (#3). I ran the wire for the console under the seat and under the door molding. I connected to the fuse box with an add-a-circuit. I just followed what everyone on here said to do and it was a piece of cake. I used Parts Express marine outlets like everyone else. The hardest part for me was getting the hole drilled in the console. Thanks to everyone for providing such good instructions!! If I can do this, anybody can do it!!

Makes you wonder why you waited so long!!!

Good to hear it went easy!!!

Spur's Addiction
08-22-2010, 08:25 PM
Just did this today.

Excellent. Cost about 14 bucks in parts. Had to make 2 trips to autozone because I got the wrong a"ad a fuse". but otherwise was pretty straight forward.

viking vol
08-22-2010, 09:33 PM
My problem was I got over-confident after the first one went in so easy in the dash cubby. When I went to do the one in the floor console, I only measured once and tried to cut twice instead of the other way around. I used a Dremel to try to make the hole oval and ended messing up the whole thing. Quick trip via computer to Majestic had a new console here in no time. Took my time and still had it done in less than 10 minutes. Do it slow and pay attention!! At least the new console fits much tighter!!

Spur's Addiction
08-23-2010, 09:58 AM
My problem was I got over-confident after the first one went in so easy in the dash cubby. When I went to do the one in the floor console, I only measured once and tried to cut twice instead of the other way around. I used a Dremel to try to make the hole oval and ended messing up the whole thing. Quick trip via computer to Majestic had a new console here in no time. Took my time and still had it done in less than 10 minutes. Do it slow and pay attention!! At least the new console fits much tighter!!


speedbor

perfect hole every time

zoetropico
09-18-2010, 01:47 PM
Hi everyone,
I am so grateful for this thread! But, I'm still not sufficiently confident enough to begin my mod without asking a question that I'm sure has already been asked in some form or another... so, please bear with me. :)

This is what I want to do and what I plan to do based on what I've learned in this thread. Basically, I'm looking for confirmation that I've got it right. I am not an electrician by any means but follow directions well. So, here goes!

Task #1) Convert the rear socket to "always-on"

Follow the instructions as laid out here: http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~joel/fun/element/RearOutletWire/rearoutletwire.htm

Has anyone had a problem doing it this way? Is there another way to do it that I should consider?

And for Task #2) Convert the front 12v (lighter) socket to "always-on".

I don't even know if this is possible. I want an always-on socket in the front, but am trying to avoid drilling. But, if I must, I will. And in that case it seems that an "Add-a-circuit" or add-a-fuse" is my best bet. (not sure of the difference here) I then should put that added fuse/circuit in the hot fuse slot (3?) and wire it to wherever I put the socket.

How does all this sound? Surgery is due to start tomorrow and I'm making trips to the auto parts stores today!

Thanks for any help!

Stacey

nacranym
09-18-2010, 07:20 PM
go for it.

the only caution i would add it, make sure you distinguish slot direction from wire direction. ie, you want to connect the slots that go from side to side w/ a wire that goes front to back.

zoetropico
09-20-2010, 11:27 AM
Done! Rear socket is live! It was much easier than I thought it would be!

Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to post up instructions and answer questions in this thread. It was an invaluable resource.

Stacey

yemen85
01-28-2011, 03:55 AM
Does anyone know if the 09 EX is prewired for a power outlet under the console housing?
Thanks

lizzurd
01-28-2011, 10:27 PM
Does anyone know if the 09 EX is prewired for a power outlet under the console housing?
Thanks


You will have to add it your self. Only the SC is prewired.

PhatB
02-14-2011, 01:26 PM
Over the weekend I added a socket to the front pocket to the left of the steering wheel. I keep my Droid mounted in the upper left windshield when I'm using the GPS navigation, and I really hate stringing a power adapter all the way across the dash.

I picked up a Honda rear socket kit (about $13 from HandA) to keep it looking factory, and I used a Busman add-a-circuit ($3 at Advanced Auto) in fuse 18. Grounding the socket was easy since there's a common ground really close to where I installed.

Very handy mod, and really easy. It took my about a half hour total. Thanks to all who posted tips and tricks here!

I think the next project will be adding an aux input over there...

marzipan
02-15-2011, 10:40 PM
I'm desperately trying to do this mod. We're off on our first road trip in the E on Friday and I wanted to add the extra socket to power the GPS as well as the iPod, but I can't find this add-a-circuit gizmo anywhere. Does anyone know where I can get it up here in Canada? The socket kit I bought from Circuit City came with a fused line that splices into an existing line, anyone know which line I can use? I did a search and always ended back at the add-a-circuit solution.

Rick92040
02-16-2011, 08:08 AM
In the US you can get them in any auto store.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&q=add+a+circuit&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=10733906293614744164&ei=C8xbTdfkAYyusAP8-vSSCg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBwQ8wIwAA#

ramblerdan
02-16-2011, 09:41 AM
Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit Mini
FHM 200 (http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FHM02FHA02.pdf) / FHM 200BP (UPC 0 79458 03509 4)

Napa Mini Add-A-Circuit
BK 7822226 (http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7822226_0282404530)

Buss (Cooper Bussmann) Mini Add-A-Line
BP/HHH

PICO (Littelfuse) 0956PT (http://www.qualitydist.net/pico-0956pt.html)

Here's one at Princess Auto (http://www.princessauto.com/trailer/truck/truck-accessories/truck-electrical/8311003-10a-atm-dual-fuse-tap)

marzipan
02-16-2011, 10:48 PM
thanks guys, I didn't have time to go to Princess Auto, but found some at Canadian Tire. $15.99 for one including 3 fuses, ouch!

jinxedta
03-11-2011, 06:51 PM
I just finish adding a 12voly socket and a USB port for my element. It is perfect for what i needed it for. The USB and new socket I wired to be constantly on.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_HJB__oxEW4Q/TXq1W_6khUI/AAAAAAAAAE4/yKLilW-8rSQ/s512/IMG_5995.jpg

weasel14
06-01-2011, 10:44 PM
I just finished adding two 12 volt power outlets to my element. It took me a while to decide on a location but I finally settle on the following location because there was plenty of room for 2 outlets. Also, it was easy to access behind the dash by dropping down the glove box.

I purchased the outlets on ebay for $8 with free shipping. The outlet matches the outlet that came stock in the rear of my element. Here is the link to the outlet: evilbay item number 130433591586

Here are pictures of the finished product.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j127/zs145/CIMG0076.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j127/zs145/CIMG0077.jpg

AztecRol
06-02-2011, 12:58 AM
How did hook those up weasel14? What did you use on the back of them
to hook them up to 12vdc?? Post pix of that if you have them.

Looks good BTW!!

weasel14
06-02-2011, 10:30 AM
How did hook those up weasel14? What did you use on the back of them
to hook them up to 12vdc?? Post pix of that if you have them.

Looks good BTW!!

Sorry I did not think about taking picture while I was doing it. I used T-tap connecters from 3M to tap into the wires that run to the existing outlet. It was very easy and it only took me 30 to 45 minutes to complete.

AztecRol
06-02-2011, 12:14 PM
Sorry I did not think about taking picture while I was doing it. I used T-tap connecters from 3M to tap into the wires that run to the existing outlet. It was very easy and it only took me 30 to 45 minutes to complete.

Sorry, I should have been more clear, what did you use on the back of the
new 12v outlets?? They have two connectors in a "T" shape.

weasel14
06-02-2011, 04:28 PM
Sorry, I should have been more clear, what did you use on the back of the
new 12v outlets?? They have two connectors in a "T" shape.

I used two female fully insulated wire terminal connectors (as pictured below)

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j127/zs145/femaleconnector.jpg

vegas_84
07-13-2011, 04:17 PM
After reading through this whole thread I decided to finally try it myself. While I didn't think it was as easy as advertised due to the location of the fuse box and grounding screws I still think 90% of us could do this mod. I bought an accessory power outlet from RadioShack and an Add a Circuit HHH-ATM from AutoZone. I used a 1 1/8" speedbore drill bit from Home depot to drill a hole above the cubby to the left of the steering wheel...I practiced on an old plastic storage bin several times before doing the real thing- I would highly recommend this, it help me determine a good speed to prevent the bit from slipping or going sideways. I plugged the add a circuit into #18, connected the wires and just like that I have an additional outlet. A huge thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!!!!

bigsmokes
07-14-2011, 10:44 AM
iam going to do this mod this afternoon...i will be installing a double outlet right above the screen to the sub,,its a one piece unit i got at pepboys..i will be cutting off the power plug and hard wire it in to the fuse box with an a a c,,,and as always pictures to follow

weasel14
07-14-2011, 11:57 AM
iam going to do this mod this afternoon...i will be installing a double outlet right above the screen to the sub,,its a one piece unit i got at pepboys..i will be cutting off the power plug and hard wire it in to the fuse box with an a a c,,,and as always pictures to follow

Just thought I would let you know that I was also originally going to install my two outlets above the screen of the sub. It seemed like a nice accessable location. However, once I removed the sub cover, it was obvious there was not enough room there. Unless you have a different type of outlet that is not as deep, I don't think it will work without a lot of cutting of the plastic inner structure. I hope this helps.

bigsmokes
07-14-2011, 12:33 PM
Just thought I would let you know that I was also originally going to install my two outlets above the screen of the sub. It seemed like a nice accessable location. However, once I removed the sub cover, it was obvious there was not enough room there. Unless you have a different type of outlet that is not as deep, I don't think it will work without a lot of cutting of the plastic inner structure. I hope this helps.

It's done. I am putting everything back together now. I will post pictures in a few. I am glad I picked this spot. As you said it's very accessible Iam tired of leaning over to the passenger side to charge stuff.

bigsmokes
07-14-2011, 12:47 PM
i used the a-a-c to fuse #2 i wanted it to always be hot..i used the ground screw to the right of the steering wheel..

davecoon13
07-17-2011, 12:05 PM
I did it! I stole the idea from BigSmokes. At first, I was going to mount the outlets on the side of the cup holder. But I changed my mind after I saw how difficult it would be to fish wire under the rubber flooring. I mounted a 4 outlet strip to the place where he mounted his 2 outlet. Then I used an Add A circuit to wire it to the existing power outlet fuse.


If I can figure out how to get my FTP server working again, I can post pictures. EDIT: I could not get my FTP server up so I am trying Photobucket.
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m584/davecoon13/CIMG0537.jpg?t=1310931800
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m584/davecoon13/CIMG0536.jpg
In the bottom pic you can see the double sided foam mounting tape from where I dry fitted it, before mounting. Since then, I screwed the mounting plate tightly to the subwoofer cover and the tape or seam no longer shows. The unit is completely removable and the mounting plate is detachable and hardly noticeable on the subwoofer. If the dealer hassles me about voiding the warranty, I will remove the "add a circuit" and go to another dealer. The default fuse was 15Amp, but I replaced it with 20Amp on the Add A Circuit, even though the Add A circut is supposedly limited to 10Amps, it still works.

Question: I broke the plastic plugs that hold the subwoofer cover assembly. Is there a Honda part number for those plugs? EDIT: I think I will get some of the aftermarket DOORMAN plug at Autozone.

Next project is to install the aftermarket reverse camera.

I ordered 3 of the outlets in the earlier post which I don't need. I would be willing to part with them for $5 each, just PM me. (I think I paid $8 each on ebay, Honda wants $20-30 each).

bigsmokes
07-17-2011, 12:22 PM
Good job bro. As far as those cheap clips. I also broke one. I was able to get a nut and bolt I had laying around in there. It was tight but do able. As far as replacing them Iam positive I seen those clips in autozone. They have a section with nuts. Bolts. And plastic clips. Now get that server working. We want pictures

davecoon13
07-17-2011, 03:53 PM
Now get that server working. We want pictures

I just setup a Photobucket account cause I could not get the server working. I tried to put the pix inline in the original post. I can see them, can you? I gotta contact my web hosting service. They migrated all the servers to a new platform and didn't reset my ports etc.

mikepjvs
12-26-2011, 07:06 PM
I finally read through all the info here and added an additional plug to my center console. It was an easy process other than fishing the wire under the rubber flooring. I started over and made my wire and tape thin enough that it pulled through finally. My only concern is that after the installation was complete the plug works fine, but only with the key on. I thought it would be hot all the time. I used an add a circuit and put it in the front accessory # 18 fuse slot. Not sure why it did not work??? Any ideas or suggestions??? Thanks

lizzurd
12-26-2011, 07:12 PM
I finally read through all the info here and added an additional plug to my center console. It was an easy process other than fishing the wire under the rubber flooring. I started over and made my wire and tape thin enough that it pulled through finally. My only concern is that after the installation was complete the plug works fine, but only with the key on. I thought it would be hot all the time. I used an add a circuit and put it in the front accessory # 18 fuse slot. Not sure why it did not work??? Any ideas or suggestions??? Thanks

Unless you modify them the accessory sockets are only live when the ignition is on.

12V sockets, front & rear, always on (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36143)

davecoon13
12-26-2011, 07:19 PM
If you use the add a circuit on an always on circuit like the lock circuit, it might work, but I wouldn't keep any high draw accessories like an inverter hooked up or you could drain the battery quickly. Cellphone chargers probably would be ok if you use the vehicle often.

mikepjvs
12-26-2011, 08:05 PM
I think i understand it now. There was a post on the first page of this thread that says he just added the circuit into the rear fuse slot and they were always hot without the additional mod. That is what confused me. So now I will do the rear outlet always on mod first ,then i can move my "add a circuit" to that fuse slot and my new outlet will be always hot. Thanks for the info.

viking vol
12-27-2011, 08:12 AM
If you tap into Fuse #3, the socket will always be hot. I installed two sockets in mine. One was in the dash cubby to right of steering wheel. I put the add-a-circuit in fuse #18 with it so it is only hot when the ignition is turned on. I put the second socket in the floor console to the right of the emergency brake. This one I connected to an add-a-circuit in Fuse #3. This one is always hot. Plug a cellphone charger in this one and it charges regardless of switch position. Hope this helps. One of the easiest mods I ever did!

mikepjvs
12-27-2011, 09:26 PM
Thanks for the info,Viking. I will try it tomorrow.

kawika
02-13-2012, 12:57 PM
I am more or less an electrical noob. I have all but the add-a-circuit for this mod. Does the - or + terminal on the 12v go to ground? The pictures on the first page show wires in red, blue and black but the connection is not very clear in the pictures. I'll go on a limb and say my guess is - since that's how you jump a car battery. Is that correct?

buttermilk
02-13-2012, 01:30 PM
Yes. connect - to ground and + to positive.

kawika
02-13-2012, 04:12 PM
Perfect. This one looks like a pretty easy one to handle. Will be doing this one in the next couple of days, along with the intermittent wipers mod.

kawika
02-20-2012, 08:06 PM
Finally decided to get this one done. I added it to the passenger side of the front console. Certainly not original but it's the most practical location for my car. Drilled pilot hole with 1/4" bit. Used a unibit to finish drilling the hole. Cleaned up the excess with a utility knife. Used a bit of 100 grain sand paper, to smooth over the rough edges along the drill hole. Had a little trouble getting the Add-a-Circuit to work right. The directions on the AaC said to test with only the new accessory plugged in and if it didn't work turn it around but that didn't work at all. As soon as I added the second fuse everything worked as expected. I used #3 to be always hot.

The attached image shows the socket installed. Installed it "upside down" so when I need to plug something in the cover doesn't get in the way. Don't have a pic of the finished product. The garage lighting sucks, especially inside the car.

davecoon13
03-04-2012, 05:18 PM
I currently have two Add a Circuits connected to each other on one fuse (backup camera display and lighter outlet strip). Is there one of the blank (unused) fuse slots that is not always hot and is only hot when the motor is on that I could tap into?

ramblerdan
03-05-2012, 01:58 PM
Switched sources are easier to find than ones that are always on. See

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/udfrb.htm

If there's any doubt, a test light or meter will verify.

davecoon13
03-05-2012, 02:24 PM
Thanks for the great diagram!

So, this diagram shows blank fuse slots for the under-dash fuse box in slot numbers 5,16,21,24,25.

So, I guess if my Test light illuminates with the key on and shows these as switched fuses, I guess that means I could just plug the add-a-circut into one of those fuse blocks with a 15A fuse, right?

I will give it a try this weekend.

Thanks for the diagram!

Does anyone have a diagram of how to wire the compass mirror? My backup camera is currently wired to a monitor, but i ordered the mirror kit so it will display inside the mirror, and if there is already a wire for the compass mirror, maybe I can use that one rather than fishing a new wire.

sachase
03-10-2012, 09:28 PM
Ok, if I want one behind the dash out of site "permantly" pluged into my car cell phone charger, can I splice this (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bell-12-Volt-battery-clip-power-adapter/_/N-25ne?itemIdentifier=263165_0_0_)?

attach add a circuit to red and black to ground? done?

chuckc1971
03-10-2012, 09:30 PM
Ok, if I want one behind the dash out of site "permantly" pluged into my car cell phone charger, can I splice this (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bell-12-Volt-battery-clip-power-adapter/_/N-25ne?itemIdentifier=263165_0_0_)?

attach add a circuit to red and black to ground? done?

More like this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bell-12-Volt-auxiliary-power-socket/_/N-25ne?itemIdentifier=263161&_requestid=683876

NATOsElement
05-03-2012, 02:31 PM
has anybody thought of putting an actual 12v 2 prong plug in the front of their E? i am wondering how it would even work?

Island E
05-03-2012, 02:46 PM
12V 2 prong? Why? I can't think of anything that would even plug into that.

murso74
05-04-2012, 11:02 AM
do you mean like a camping hook up?

Island E
05-04-2012, 12:24 PM
Or a typo and he meant 120V 2 prong.
I'm actually thinking about hard wiring in a power inverter for the front. Maybe like an 800W one or something.

pedals
06-07-2012, 08:06 PM
Long story short, my old 12V Sirius radio died a couple weeks ago. I had it hard wired to the fuse panel. You can't do that the regular way since 12V will fry the newer 5V radios. I temporarily put a power outlet near the hood release but that was in the way and I didn't like the fragile wire snaked under and around the seat.
I put an outlet in the console which was no big deal. I didn't like the look of the flimsy cover that came with it so I ordered a Honda OEM cover. The threaded sleeve was too long with the Honda cover so I used a small hose clamp to prevent the socket from pulling out with the plug. This way I can keep the radio low and hidden like it was before and I don't have a lot of exposed wires cluttering everything up. I also get to keep the top power outlet free. With this Honda cover it looks like a stock outlet that matches the rear one. When I got the E I also hid the Sirius antenna under the plastic roof panel like some have done before. I like the stealth look and unless you look for it you'd never know it's in there. As long as there's no issues with the 12 gauge wire under the flooring I'm good with it.

Thanks to all for their tips and experience.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll249/pedalspics/IMG_1513.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll249/pedalspics/IMG_1515.jpg

since the threaded sleeve was now too long I just used a hose clamp to secure the socket behind the cover/cap:

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll249/pedalspics/IMG_1517.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll249/pedalspics/IMG_1490.jpg

Snuffleupagus
06-07-2012, 08:14 PM
Nice install, Pedals.

What's the Honda part number for that cover, if you don't mind me asking?

pedals
06-07-2012, 08:41 PM
Nice install, Pedals.

What's the Honda part number for that cover, if you don't mind me asking?

That part number is 39631-S5A-A01, mine was $12.38 (kinda steep but I don't mind for the stock look) :-)

Snuffleupagus
06-07-2012, 10:01 PM
That part number is 39631-S5A-A01, mine was $12.38 (kinda steep but I don't mind for the stock look) :-)

Thanks for the info, Pedals. :-)

cj5000
06-10-2012, 01:56 AM
A few extra tips:
I used the Blue Sea 1011 12v DC Socket purchased on Amazon. A 1.125 hole is good for it. You do not need to use the included rectangular front piece if you do not want to. The barrel is threaded and there is a ring to secure the socket.
There is no light element on this socket.
The Bussman ATM add-a-fuse should be inserted with the wire facing upwards. (I used fuse #3, which is always on and 10 amps.)
To remove the subwoofer enclosure, press the middle of the plastic plug with a small poking object.
To replace the plastic plug, push the prongs back the opposite way until the middle part of the plug (the part you pressed in to remove it) sticks out.
For snaking wires under the floor mat, remove the subwoofer (4 10mm bolts, bottom and mid-way up on each side). Also, if you have factory carpet, remove the middle carpet retainer stud. Once these two items are removed, it is very easy to snake a wire to the middle (I actually pushed the coat hanger from the middle towards the subwoofer location).
The inexpensive stepped 'cone' drill bit I got from Harbor Freight did as much plastic melting as cutting. I had to do a lot of trimming with a sharp knife. But I must say the stepped cone drill was accurate and easy to use.

Eww-an E
06-10-2012, 02:27 PM
Long story short, my old 12V Sirius radio died a couple weeks ago. I had it hard wired to the fuse panel. You can't do that the regular way since 12V will fry the newer 5V radios. I temporarily put a power outlet near the hood release but that was in the way and I didn't like the fragile wire snaked under and around the seat.

Not trying to rag on your install, but if you wanted to really clean up that look, I'd recommend unplugging the unit from that socket you just installed and installing a hidden 12volt adapter socket underneath the console, or somewhere else to power the satellite radio.

One like this.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889591

Powering your the satellite radio with a hidden 12volt socket and drilling the required holes to route the plugs through the console would hide pretty much all of that exposed wiring and look really good.

pedals
06-12-2012, 05:53 PM
Not trying to rag on your install, but if you wanted to really clean up that look, I'd recommend unplugging the unit from that socket you just installed and installing a hidden 12volt adapter socket underneath the console, or somewhere else to power the satellite radio.

One like this.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3889591

Powering your the satellite radio with a hidden 12volt socket and drilling the required holes to route the plugs through the console would hide pretty much all of that exposed wiring and look really good.


You know, I originally considered leaving the 12V socket under the console and running the wire out like the antenna wire etc. The fragility of the thin wire and the appeal of the outlet in the front of the console took me back to that route. I did clean it up a bit after that pic by temporarily using a twin socket adapter which is much more flexible. I tucked the unused outlet in with the wires under the radio and for now routed the outlet I used to the side along the seat. I'll see if they make a single outlet short extension and see if I can do what I have with only one outlet on the cord. it's a work in progress so I may still look at the hidden wires route.

Eww-an E
06-15-2012, 04:18 PM
You know, I originally considered leaving the 12V socket under the console and running the wire out like the antenna wire etc. The fragility of the thin wire and the appeal of the outlet in the front of the console took me back to that route. I did clean it up a bit after that pic by temporarily using a twin socket adapter which is much more flexible. I tucked the unused outlet in with the wires under the radio and for now routed the outlet I used to the side along the seat. I'll see if they make a single outlet short extension and see if I can do what I have with only one outlet on the cord. it's a work in progress so I may still look at the hidden wires route.

Gotcha.

Just thought I'd offer a few suggestions because a few years back I installed my Delphi SkyFi 3 satellite radio in pretty much the same location as yours and those were some of the things I did to give my install a clean appearance.

weldingwes
07-15-2012, 01:50 PM
added two new power outlets today. got the ones with the inline fuse from radio shack. 20 bucks well spent!

labhead
07-24-2012, 06:43 PM
Ok, I'm getting ready to do this mod and I have some questions.

I have purchased my two additional outlets (inline fuse ones from radio shack) and an add a fuse. (made sure to get the right part #). I don't want my connection to be always on so I will be using slot 18 in the fuse box under the steering wheel. I plan on putting both outlets in my center console. My first question is can I split the hot wire to go to the two outlets or do I need to run two wires, one to each outlet? I plan on grounding the neg wires to a screw under the console. My other question is wire size. The wire coming off the add a fuse is 16g. The wire on the outlet is 18g. I read on here about people using 10 or 12g. I have some 14g laying around, and I'd love to use that since I wouldn't have to go buy more wire. But I'm hesitant to use a bigger wire in the middle like that. So what size wire should I be using to do this the proper way?

ramblerdan
07-24-2012, 10:00 PM
can I split the hot wire to go to the two outlets or do I need to run two wires, one to each outlet?
You can run one wire as far as you need to, before splitting it.

The wire coming off the add a fuse is 16g. The wire on the outlet is 18g. ... I have some 14g
14 gauge will be fine. The only penalties for using thicker (lower number) wire are pliability and cost, and neither applies in this case.

labhead
07-25-2012, 08:02 AM
You can run one wire as far as you need to, before splitting it.



14 gauge will be fine. The only penalties for using thicker (lower number) wire are pliability and cost, and neither applies in this case.




Thanks. I was thinking the pliability of a thicker wire would be in my favor when trying to snake the wire under the flooring. But a coat hanger I'm sure works best.

labhead
07-25-2012, 11:18 AM
Done!

Only made one mistake. Plugged the add a fuse in before connecting wires to outlet and blew a fuse. No biggy.

I opted to put both outlets in the rear part of the console to keep from having cable clutter in the front.

Also, fishing the wire underneath the flooring is a LOT easier if you remove the sub housing. It was just two screws on each side. That way you can lift the mat up a bit more. I also used a pry bar from the console side to raise the flooring up more, giving me more room to work. It was super easy to feed the coat hanger through once I did that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/allprorock/839d3903.jpg

Also, to drill the holes in the console I used a 1" spade bit/wood bit like this...

http://images.drillspot.com/pimages/1532/153281_300.jpg

Then I used a dremel to to bore the hole out just a little more. I also used a hack saw blade to cut a little notch for the rib piece on the socket. (at least my socket had a ribbed piece on there that was keeping me from getting the socket in there).

Snuffleupagus
07-25-2012, 12:49 PM
Nice! Congrats on a successful install.

davecoon13
12-24-2012, 10:04 AM
i used the a-a-c to fuse #2 i wanted it to always be hot..i used the ground screw to the right of the steering wheel..

Can you show a picture of where this ground screw under the steering wheel is located? Right now I am currently using a binder clip plus electrical tape to the metal frame to hold ground for both this outlet strip and my backup camera, which I want to fix.

My next task is to figure out how to permantely spice the wires instead of using the Add a Circut for this and my backup camera. I think I am gonna hire the audio place, because I also want to mount my new CB radio under the dash.

davecoon13
02-04-2013, 09:48 PM
Can you show a picture of where this ground screw under the steering wheel is located?

Nevermind. I had the audio place hardwire my backup camera, my 4 outlet 12v lighter plug strip, my cb radio, and my electronic deer whistle. Now all I have to do is wire my $29 Harborfreight PIAA knockoff lights once I figure out how to mount them.

BEleMENTal
03-13-2013, 11:52 AM
Great Easy Mod. Always needed power access closer to the driver.