So going from what I started in this thread (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25850), with my current calculations I'm on track to save $600 this year.

Hopefully this thread can answer a few questions and help you put an extra couple of hundred dollars in your pocket as well!

Questions:

1) How do I calculate my fuel economy?
2) Why doesn’t my fuel economy match what’s on the sticker?
3) How does the EPA test fuel economy?
4) What can I do to improve my fuel economy?
5) I’m getting horrible fuel economy! What can I do?!

Answers:

1) If you’ve never done this before or suspect that you may be doing it wrong, the next time you fill up at the gas station reset at least one of your trip meters to zero. Drive like you usually do until it’s time to fill up again. After you’ve filled up, divide the number of miles on the trip meter by the number of gallons you put in the tank. Because of the way pumps are, this won’t be 100% accurate and could vary by a few percentage points either way. If you’re trying to use the 15.9 fuel tank capacity in your math equation somewhere, you’re doing it wrong.

2) Real world driving conditions can and often does vary from the testing procedures used to calculate the fuel economy on your sticker. In addition, the condition of your vehicle, and whether it has been properly maintained will affect your fuel economy. A big factor in fuel economy is climate and temperature as well. Extreme heat or extreme cold will result in lower fuel economy. Other factors include engine break-in period, variations in fuel and fuel types, and inherent differences between any two Elements.

3) EPA testing procedures are pretty outdated and don’t reflect real world driving conditions at all. This is set to change in the near future (and there will probably be a flux of new threads that ask why fuel economy changed between the 2003-2007 years and 2008 on). In any case, the test is done on 1 vehicle in the following conditions:

a) Average Highway Speed of 49mph
b) Maximum Highway Speed of 60mph
c) Ambient Temperature at 75 degrees
d) No rapid acceleration
e) No air conditioning used
f) No passengers or cargo
g) No rough roads
h) No hills
i) No wind
j) No low tire pressure
k) No ethanol in gas

4) It’s all about your driving style and making sure your vehicle is properly maintained at all times. Following the tips below could save you hundreds of dollars a year.

a) Keep the car properly maintained at all times. Check tire air pressure every two weeks and top them off to specifications - but don't buy into the "fill your tires with nitrogen" snake-oil some places will try to sell you for a few bucks... air is already 78% nitrogen. Change your oil and fluids at the recommended service intervals specified in your owner’s manual. Make sure your air filter is clean and replaced when it gets dirty.

b) Slow down. Seriously. At speeds past 65mph, every 10mph over could mean a 20% loss of fuel economy. That starts to add up very quickly with $3/gallon gas. The reason behind the loss? Wind resistance. It’s probably even more pronounced with the Element since it’s not exactly the bastion of aerodynamics. You also want to keep you acceleration light and under 3000rpm when shifting if possible.

c) Lose the dead weight. If you’re carrying a load of bricks in the cargo area for no reason, you’re not going to get the fuel economy you could be getting. Each 100lbs lost will net you about 3% better fuel economy.

d) Lose the drag. Roof racks, bug deflectors, cargo carriers, et al. all create drag. Lose them and gain a bit more fuel economy and efficiency.


5) Make sure you’ve taken heed of my advice and followed all the steps in this FAQ. If you’re sure you’ve calculated your fuel economy correctly, and you’re well clear of the engine break-in period, and your driving style shadows my recommendations, and the mileage is far worse than a 20% deviation from sticker (sticker 21mpg, so 20% less than that is 16.8mpg), and your calculated result is averaged over a few tanks, there is the possibility of mechanical defect. Take your car in to the dealer.

Very informative Sheniferous. Thank you for taking the time to explain it all.

Nicely done, Shen!

I'll chime in with my handy-dandy mileage tracking tip. Whenever I fill up the tank, I make sure to get the receipt. Then I scribble down the current main odometer reading on that receipt and stash it in my armrest.

That way, I can subtract the previous receipt's odometer from the current one to get the mileage driven on the last tank. This is a nice backup to the trip odometer, which could be accidentally reset. Plus it gives you a permanent paper record of miles-per-tank.

(Of course, if you are relying on the trip odometer, jotting down the trip miles on the receipt is still a quick way to keep a record.)

- Jeff

good job and informative.

Someone on here once said to save gas drive as if there was an egg between your foot and the gas pedal.
I never forgot that and I'm saving gas now.
Also only go 60 on the highway, BIG DIFFERENCE.
jurneez

Nicely done, Shen!

I'll chime in with my handy-dandy mileage tracking tip. Whenever I fill up the tank, I make sure to get the receipt. Then I scribble down the current main odometer reading on that receipt and stash it in my armrest.

That way, I can subtract the previous receipt's odometer from the current one to get the mileage driven on the last tank. This is a nice backup to the trip odometer, which could be accidentally reset. Plus it gives you a permanent paper record of miles-per-tank.
- Jeff

I too go by the main odometer reading- but I keep track of it all in a little notebook in the overhead bin- each time I fill up, I write down the date, main odo reading, gallons pumped, then do the calculations. I loose receipts too easily- this way its all there, ever since march 04 :)

It would also be worth noting the use of ethanol and various regional requirements of gasoline blends and how they might affect MPG as well.

I use the trip odometer and each time I fill up I devide miles travled by amount fuel used ( I do top off, but dont spill) as I to try and allways start and end the calculation with a fuel tank level that is consistant. I just got back this afternoon from a 3 day fishing trip to the lower DelMarVa peninsula. My trip was almost 400 miles round trip. By my calculations I averaged 27.6 mpg on the Highway. I set the cruise for 5 mph over the speed limit and tried to save gas. My last trip down was without the cruise and driving fast, I got 24 mpg on the same trip. I get a real satisfation out of keeping track and saving gas/money.

BTW our motor fuel in the Baltimore metro area has 10% ethanol and other "clean air addatives". Our gasoline in this part of Maryland is referred to as a "boutique fuel" by the oil companies because of our required addatives. Gasoline was 30 cents a gallon cheaper when I reached my destination on lower DelMarVa.

I have been averaging nearly 23mpg over the past 4 tanks... I've never averaged this high before. I love driving conservatively!

On a related note, I'm much calmer staying in the right lanes. I'm not popping a vein out trying to merge around "slow" people in the left lane anymore. Happiness + Money in my pocket = Awesome!

I'm getting around 21 mpg in my 2005 AWD E. Anyway to improve it, I noticed that 2006 and 2007 have higher mpg. Do they have a chip that can be put into the 2005 AWD.:-D
MRC

I'm getting around 21 mpg in my 2005 AWD E. Anyway to improve it
Did you not just read this thread?

^ My mistake, lwc, not the poster's. Blame me.

espanolabass started a separate mileage thread. I closed it and moved the post here. There is an attempt by the moderators to not let mileage threads drown out the board. I recommended in a PM that espanolabass take Shen's advice here. I also wrote:

To answer your questions specifically, 21 MPG is not too bad. Maybe a hair on the low side but definitely in the range of what you can expect trying to move a 3,500 lb. box through the air. 2WD and manual transmission versions do get better mileage, maybe by 10-20%. Your 2005 has the same EPA rating as the 2006 (you're mistaken here) and the 2007 gets better mileage by going to a 5 speed automatic transmission with a really low geared overdrive for the 5th gear (yours is a 4 speed auto). There is no chip available.
I don't know if espanolabass has ever seen this thread.

Ah yes, that just might explain things :)

10 Ways to Lower the Cost of Driving
From saving gas to lowering the cost of routine maintenance, a few simple habits keep costs in check.

For most Americans, driving is a necessity of life. But as budgets tighten and fuel prices fluctuate, many people are looking for ways to trim the price of driving. When buying a car, opting for a used vehicle can cut the cost of ownership from the very first day. The price is normally thousands less than for the same car new. In addition, a lower price means less sales tax, less money to finance the purchase, and a lower premium on any collision and comprehensive insurance. To get the best fuel economy, choosing a four-cylinder engine rather than a V6, or a V6 rather than a V8, is usually the way to go. Likewise, small, light cars tend to be more miserly with fuel than are larger vehicles. To compare specific models, go to the Environmental Protection Agency's web site at www.fueleconomy.gov. Once you've bought a vehicle, you can still go farther for less money if you follow a few common-sense practices. To aid your efforts, keep a notebook in the car, and for a few months write down everything you spend on driving--fuel, maintenance, tolls, and parking. Knowing where the money goes is the best guide to finding significant places to save. Here are some other tips.

NO LOITERING

Think of it this way: while idling, your car is getting zero miles per gallon (mpg). Don't let the engine run at idle for any longer than necessary. After starting the car in the morning, begin driving right away; don't let it sit and "warm up" for several minutes. An engine actually warms up faster while driving. With most gasoline engines, it's more efficient to turn off the engine rather than idle for 30 seconds or longer. Think about going into a fast-food restaurant rather than waiting in a long line for the drive-through window.

EASY DOES IT

Driving smoothly and steadily makes the best use of your fuel. If you can, avoid hard acceleration or braking. When you move out from a standstill, bring the car up to speed briskly but not abruptly. You want to get up to cruising speed without straining, and then stay there. Once up to speed, maintain a steady pace in top gear. Varying your speed a lot wastes fuel. According to the EPA, the most fuel-efficient speeds are between about 25 and 60 mph. Smooth acceleration, cornering, and braking not only save fuel, but extend the life of the engine, transmission, and brakes.

DON'T BE A DRAG

At highway speeds, over 50 percent of engine power goes to overcoming aerodynamic drag. Try not to add to the drag by carrying things on top of your vehicle. A loaded roof rack can decrease a car's fuel economy by 5 percent. Even driving with empty ski racks wastes gas. In addition, if you have air conditioning, don't ride with your windows open on the highway; this also disturbs the outside airflow and creates extra drag.

STAY WARM

An engine runs most inefficiently when it's cold. It not only uses more fuel during this period, but also creates the dirtiest emissions and suffers the most wear. Avoid lots of short, separate trips--and unnecessary cold starts--by combining as many errands as possible into one trip.

GETTING REGULAR

If your car specifies regular fuel, don't buy premium in the mistaken belief that your engine will run better. Using premium fuel in those circumstances is like buying bigger sneakers in the hope they'll help you run faster. Most cars are designed to run just fine on regular gasoline. Furthermore, many cars that recommend premium fuel also run well on regular. You can check with your dealership as to whether your engine is designed to handle either grade. If so, try a tankful or two of regular. If you see no difference in mileage or engine performance, stick with it.

BUY BARGIN FUEL AND OIL

Off-brand gasoline is most often identical to what is sold at franchised gas stations. Shop for the cheapest. Likewise, look for promotional sales at quick-lube shops. Just make sure the shop uses the correct service-grade and viscosity oil for your car. Following your car's recommended oil-change intervals is sufficient, which for most cars driven under normal conditions is 7,500 miles. While oil companies and lube shops may recommend changing oil every 3,000 miles, this can be an unnecessary expense. You can change the oil yourself-typically for $10 or so for oil and a filter. But since a commercial oil change routinely costs $20 or so, you have to weigh whether the savings is worth the time and effort, plus the hassle of safely disposing of your used oil.

STAY TUNED

The EPA mileage that's posted on new-car window stickers is based on a well-tuned and properly maintained vehicle. Running a car in subpar condition can lower that figure dramatically. A poorly tuned engine can cut gas mileage by 10 to 20 percent. Modern electronically controlled engines don't need the frequent and extensive tune-ups of older cars, but they still need regular maintenance and suffer component failures. A clogged air filter alone can cause up to a 10 percent increase in fuel consumption. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual, and act promptly if you sense any unusual sounds, smells, or vibration. . Dealership service departments tend to have the most up-to-date tools, equipment, and experience with your car, so they're the places to go if the problem is a real puzzle. But any good mechanic can perform routine service and repair, and independent shops or service stations are often cheaper than using the service department at a dealership.

ROUTINE ISN'T ALWAYS THE SAME

Before you have routine maintenance performed on your vehicle, call around for the best price. Even different dealerships of the same brand can charge varying amounts for the same service interval. Routine maintenance can also be done by independent shops, which are generally less expensive than dealerships. Just keep good records in case you later have a warranty claim. Check in your owner's manual to make sure that the price includes all necessary service, but doesn't add in unnecessary extras. If you're handy, you can also do simple maintenance yourself; just keep all receipts as proof of what parts or fluids were used and when.

WATCH THE TIRES
Keep your tires properly inflated. Underinflated tires require more energy to roll, which not only wastes fuel but wears the tires faster. According to the EPA, one tire that's underinflated by only two psi will result in a 1 percent increase in fuel consumption. Underinflated tires can also build up excess heat, which can lead to tire failure. Check tire pressures monthly when the tires are cold. The recommended tire pressures are found on a label inside the car--usually in a doorjamb or inside the glove-box lid.

SHOP FOR INSURANCE

Some insurers charge twice as much as others for the same customer and car. Using the Internet or the Yellow Pages, shop around for the best insurance-rate quotes you can find. You should carry ample liability insurance, but you don't need to splurge much on collision and comprehensive if your car is getting on in years. Once collision and comprehensive premiums reach 10 percent of the car's book value, consider dropping them. Also raise your deductibles to the highest limit you are comfortable with: say $500 or $1,000. Recheck the insurance market for competitive rates every year or two.

Bump......

Bump......


Yea... apparently a lot of people think the words "Fuel Economy FAQ" stickied on top of the forum doesn't apply to them. :-?

Well there are a lot of variables missing from this equation. First off, if you weigh 250 pounds as opposed to 150 that will matter. Average passenger weight will matter, also , the seats in the back weight (appx. guess, at the very least 50 lbs a pop, do you have one or both or none installed?) There are probably much more variables than this as well.:rolleyes:

Nevermind, passenger weight was included,...doh! Either way, there are tons of causal factors that would come in play.

I drove to Charlotte NC this weekend. On the way back, driving between 60-70 mph, on cruise control most of the time, I made 25.6 mpg. Usually in mixed driving I get about 21 mpg. Anyway, I'm happy and credit the results to previous posts by Shen, IRV, and others.

Hi Sheniferous ,
My sticker reads “Highway MPG 26” for my 2004 Element. The fine print reads: “Results reported to EPA indicate that the majority of vehicles with these estimates will achieve between 22 and 30 mpg on the highway.”
My previous experience with an estimated fuel economy sticker was on my Toyota Minivan and I was beating the high number, 32 mpg (highway) every time. I was really expecting at least 30 mpg for the Element. On our first trip (new Element) I saw 25 once and averaged only 22 mpg highway. I have a 2.4 liter, 4-cyl, 5-speed manual. Does anyone know of a mod that can be performed to change transmission gear ratio so we can go the speed limit at 2200 rpm instead of 3800 rpm? Also, if you could please explain where your 21 mpg came from I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Allan

This link allows conversion from the OLD EPA MPG ratings to the NEW more realistic EPA ratings.

My E lost 2 or 3 MPG. Not bad.:)



http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2007-02-22-hybrids-usat_x.htm

This link allows conversion from the OLD EPA MPG ratings to the NEW more realistic EPA ratings.

My E lost 2 or 3 MPG. Not bad.:)
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2007-02-22-hybrids-usat_x.htm
They have a place where you can add your Element and enter it's actual MPG. We should ALL add our E's so they will have some real-time data. My E gets avg 24.9mpg overall, which is 3.9mpg above the new estimated combined average of 21 for mine (60%local/40% hwy). Mine has gotten better MPG with each tank of gas and I just did my 1st oil change, which should bring it up even more. My 1st tank was slightly under 18MPG and I have gotten as much as 28.9 hwy (winter - plain gas, not ethanol mix).

They have a place where you can add your Element and enter it's actual MPG. We should ALL add our E's so they will have some real-time data......

Did this this morning. I fudged just a bit. I used 2006 as a benchmark and for that complete year I averaged 21.8 MPG. Actual overall is about 21.17.Don't tell anyone.:D

It was last updated 2/20/07. I'm watching how often they update. Hope we have a good representation from EOCers.

I noticed one thing regarding the different fuels and my previous vehicle (95 Pathfinder). I lived in California, where 87 octane was the minimum fuel you could get. When I moved to Colorado, I started using 85 octane, and I noticed a SIGNIFICANT drop in my fuel mileage, like 30-40 miles less per tank of gas. I thought perhaps it was my new driving habits or the altitude, but I changed back to 87 octane, and my mileage immediately increased back to what it was in California. Now, I haven't tested this theory on my new E yet as I'm still in the break-in period, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

85 octane? I'm surprised your engine didnt start knocking and overheating!

Wanna hear how bad my mileage is, check out my reply here: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=394113#post394113

Like you guys, I use the trip odometer for distance travelled divided by how much gas I had put in.

Was lurking around Ebay during the night and they have "fuel saving kits" that look like really thick ninja stars that you add to your engine/fuel uptake somethingerother and it ionized the gas, saying it improves your gas mileage... not something I really intend on getting at the moment, but do those things really work????

jen

Was lurking around Ebay during the night and they have "fuel saving kits" that look like really thick ninja stars that you add to your engine/fuel uptake somethingerother and it ionized the gas, saying it improves your gas mileage... not something I really intend on getting at the moment, but do those things really work????

jen

Nope, they had them on Mythbusters...I think the "tornado" style inserts made mileage worse.

Was lurking around Ebay during the night and they have "fuel saving kits" that look like really thick ninja stars that you add to your engine/fuel uptake somethingerother and it ionized the gas, saying it improves your gas mileage... not something I really intend on getting at the moment, but do those things really work????

jen


Any "miracle" aids sold on fleabay or anywhere else online are just gimics to seperate you from you hard earned money.


If getting better gas mileage was that easy all the car manufacturers would be using them to increase fuel mileage and get CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy ) off their backs.

Nope, they had them on Mythbusters...I think the "tornado" style inserts made mileage worse.

Ah, God bless Mythbusters! I love that show!

Anyone here have some thoughts as to why the CRV tends to get slightly better MPG than the Element? When I bought my 2006 E I asked the salesman the same question, which only showed how naïve I am. A knowledgeable salesperson?

In 06 we have the same engines but the Element’s AT in a 4 speed vs. the CRV 5 speed, but in 07 the Element gets a 5 speed. The differences are not vast but the CRV dose get a rating of one MPG better city and 2 to 3 better highway. Thoughts? Oh heck – maybe even facts.:confused:

Anyone here have some thoughts as to why the CRV tends to get slightly better MPG than the Element? When I bought my 2006 E I asked the salesman the same question, which only showed how naïve I am. A knowledgeable salesperson?

In 06 we have the same engines but the Element’s AT in a 4 speed vs. the CRV 5 speed, but in 07 the Element gets a 5 speed. The differences are not vast but the CRV dose get a rating of one MPG better city and 2 to 3 better highway. Thoughts? Oh heck – maybe even facts.:confused:


Very simple....the Element is shaped like a brick.The CRV isnt.Being more aerodynamic the CRV would be have less wind resistance.

Very simple....the Element is shaped like a brick.The CRV isnt.Being more aerodynamic the CRV would be have less wind resistance.

Simple - yes - just not convincing when it comes to city driving.:neutral:

Alright, everyone stop just one minute and answer a question for me....and be toatlly honest..

How many of us thought, when we saw the E for the first time,,,,,Man, I just got to have one of these because the gas mileage has to be fantastic?

I'm willing to bet that was the last thing on anyones mind!!!!!!!

Alright, everyone stop just one minute and answer a question for me....and be toatlly honest..

How many of us thought, when we saw the E for the first time,,,,,Man, I just got to have one of these because the gas mileage has to be fantastic?

I'm willing to bet that was the last thing on anyones mind!!!!!!!


Your right.....fule mileage was the last thing.....i can still remember that cold january night in 2003 i was out in 2 degree F weather checking this thing out as soon as the first one came off the truck.....i didnt even take a proper test drive....i went for a short drive aound the block and i was sold....2 weeks later i had one in my driveway.Mileage has only become an issue since we bought the house and i drive twice as far to work now.

I'm willing to bet that was the last thing on anyone’s mind!!!!!!!

I’m apparently the exception to your assumption – but hey – I’ve been known to wash a rental car – so you can’t gauge anything by me. I was drawn to the E by its quirky and functional layout and I just didn’t like the pedestrian looks of the CRV and that freakin tire on the back. I do like the new CRV though.

My original query was just a shot in the dark that maybe someone here would have some insider type info that might shed light on the question – but :-(

Simple - yes - just not convincing when it comes to city driving.:neutral:

Also consider that the E is heavier and has different sized tires.

Also consider that the E is heavier and has different sized tires.


I guess I hadn't considered a little over 100lbs all that significant - but your right - it might be relevant. The tire sizes had completely escaped my attention but I don't have any real sense as to which is best for gas economy. In 06 everything was the same except the CRV had a slightly lower aspect ratio, 65 vs. 70 for the E. I just now noticed that the 07 CRV now comes standard with 17" wheels (225/65R17) which is interesting. Hey - if they came out with a CRV Hybrid in 08 I would be there - but apparently early rumors have turned out to be erroneous.

But thanks for the earnest suggestions. :)

A free offer.....to anyone who can can post an Excel generated graph here on our site.:)

Here's what I got. I just turned 50,000 miles on my Element. I purchased my E in late December of 04 and have kept pretty close track of MPG since. I'll admit, there were one or two times I got a bum receipts and had to "figure" the numbers. And once I filled up and the damn pump never turned off, the gas kept coming (all over the pavement till I realized it) and a few other glitches. But for the most part the numbers are based on fill ups over two years (about 220 times) and 49,000 + miles in a "seasonal" climate.

Now I don't know how to post this info, but the line graph is illustrative of how cold and hot weather effects MPG and MPG improvement over time.

So pm me and I'll email you the file for sharing with the club.:D

Quote: Coaster says
>>I’m apparently the exception to your assumption – but hey – I’ve been known to wash a rental car – so you can’t gauge anything by me.<<

You are truly sick!!:-P

Here's my spreadsheet, copied into a paint program, saved as a jpeg, then image-reduced until it fit the site limits. This is about 100 fill-ups from Dec 2004 to present, over about 28K miles. Average overall is 24.28 mpg, with a best of 30.9 and a worst of 18.3.

Mileage was a prime factor in my purchase decision. I wish my E did better, but it's still about the best one can get in a vehicle with enough heft to feel comfortable on logging roads. Just waiting for that Euro 2.2L diesel...

That looks like about what I'm getting. Over the 4000 miles since I bought the E I have averaged about 24.5 mpg. I haven't kept it written down, but I believe I had a high of about 29 on a road trip and a low of 19 on a week when I was in traffic A LOT and was driving kind of aggressively. Compared to a lot of other SUV's out there, I'm pretty happy with what I'm getting. It just takes some getting used to when I come from a Honda Civic that gets around 35-38mpg.

That looks like about what I'm getting. Over the 4000 miles since I bought the E I have averaged about 24.5 mpg. I haven't kept it written down, but I believe I had a high of about 29 on a road trip and a low of 19 on a week when I was in traffic A LOT and was driving kind of aggressively. Compared to a lot of other SUV's out there, I'm pretty happy with what I'm getting. It just takes some getting used to when I come from a Honda Civic that gets around 35-38mpg.

I get similar numbers, maybe a little lower but not much, that Tracy reports. That's with 28,000 miles and in 2 years. The main point is that it carries more than our old Jeep Grand Cherokee and even more compared with our Jeep Cherokee. With AWD, fantastic space available, and cool individuality, what the he!! more could you ask from the Element? If you want great mileage, get a Civic, if you want versatility and really good mileage, get an Element!

Hey, what do you know?:lol: If you go back to post #37 can you see what MY MILEAGE has been in just about 52,000 miles of service.

EDIT: Never mind. Here it is.

I have posted a DIY mileage tracking booklet in the Mods section (seemed like the place to put DIY stuff).

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=426194#post426194

~500 miles, getting 22 MPG in the city and 24 on highway. If it is the case that MPG increase as the engine gets its legs I am a happy camper indeed.

Well I finally did it. After 3 years of wanting one I finally have my Element. I love it. I just took some road trips with it so here are the numbers I am getting. When I set the cruise control at 65 mph, I get 30 mpg. Around town I get mid 20s. I have almost 10,000 miles on it now and the milage seems to be getting better as it breaks in.

No way this thing should only get a couple more MPG than say a Ford F-150. Give me a break.
Even Reading the above "DONT BASH HONDA E BEFORE READING" post...A car with a 4 cylinder engine shoud get more than 21, 22, 23,24, even 25 in the city.

No way this thing should only get a couple more MPG than say a Ford F-150. Give me a break.
Even Reading the above "DONT BASH HONDA E BEFORE READING" post...A car with a 4 cylinder engine shoud get more than 21, 22, 23,24, even 25 in the city.
Excuse? Give me a break. A Ford F-150 with the smallest engine is rated at 14 mpg city. If you're going to make comparisons against a perceived baseline, you probably want to be aware of what that baseline is.

My E isn't the mystery, my accord is. On our recent trip to Michigan we got 37mpg!! Same engine as the E. But when we're back home in the city it gets 17-19mpg, a freakin' accord! It's only 2 years old and has 18k on it, no low fluids, nada, not sure what's goin on.

I agree with this post, except one thing. I shift with higher revs, around 4000 rpms. In first gear, slowly accelerate all the way up to 4000, shift to 2nd, take it all the way up to 4000, shift to third, take it up to ~3000-3500. Usually, I'm at the right speed at that time and short shift it into fifth to cruise. Since doing that, I've been getting 25 or more mpg of mix driving (stop and go traffic).

My rationale is that I spend less time in the bigger gears trying to accelerate, which requires more throttle input (meaning more air equating to the computer adding more fuel). By keeping it in the lower gears longer, I use less throttle input (i.e., less opening of the throttle body, less air, less fuel, more propulsion due to the low gear). In other words, ever try riding your 10 speed bike up a hill in the 10th gear? Pretty hard. How about getting that 10 speed bike up to speed from a stop in 10th gear? Or even 5th gear?

Use the lower gears for what they're made for. The E peaks, torque wise at 4000 rpms. After that, it flattens out. Take it right to peak so that the engine performs the most work it can per gear, instead of short changing the engine and using less torque in higher gears to do the same work.

lol, good call you got to this one first. Pretty bad statement right there.

Excuse? Give me a break. A Ford F-150 with the smallest engine is rated at 14 mpg city. If you're going to make comparisons against a perceived baseline, you probably want to be aware of what that baseline is.

My E isn't the mystery, my accord is. On our recent trip to Michigan we got 37mpg!! Same engine as the E. But when we're back home in the city it gets 17-19mpg, a freakin' accord! It's only 2 years old and has 18k on it, no low fluids, nada, not sure what's goin on.37 mpg is great! Sounds like your city must be much worse to drive in than the made-up "city" in the EPA test...

37 mpg is great! Sounds like your city must be much worse to drive in than the made-up "city" in the EPA test...


Problem is most of the driving on it is done in the city. It is my car of choice for long trips thanks to the mileage.

I agree with this post, except one thing. I shift with higher revs, around 4000 rpms. In first gear, slowly accelerate all the way up to 4000, shift to 2nd, take it all the way up to 4000, shift to third, take it up to ~3000-3500. Usually, I'm at the right speed at that time and short shift it into fifth to cruise. Since doing that, I've been getting 25 or more mpg of mix driving (stop and go traffic).

My rationale is that I spend less time in the bigger gears trying to accelerate, which requires more throttle input (meaning more air equating to the computer adding more fuel). By keeping it in the lower gears longer, I use less throttle input (i.e., less opening of the throttle body, less air, less fuel, more propulsion due to the low gear). In other words, ever try riding your 10 speed bike up a hill in the 10th gear? Pretty hard. How about getting that 10 speed bike up to speed from a stop in 10th gear? Or even 5th gear?


Use the lower gears for what they're made for. The E peaks, torque wise at 4000 rpms. After that, it flattens out. Take it right to peak so that the engine performs the most work it can per gear, instead of short changing the engine and using less torque in higher gears to do the same work.

This may be useless info in regard to your post. I took your advice to heart for the past week and find it hard to wait that long to shift. The throttle response is so sensitive that I keep bumping into the person in front of me. Anyway just for fun I wanted to see what speed 4000 rpm correlated to and what rpm the Honda recommended shift points correlated to. The numbers are not exact. I tried to get them while driving around in traffic.

From the Honda owners manual:
1st 15 mph 3,500 rpm
2nd 25 mph 3,100 rpm
3rd 40 mph 3,300 rpm
4th 48 mph 3,000 rpm
Looks like Honda targets shifting around 3,300 rpm

Shifting at 4000 rpm:
1st 18 mph 4000 rpm
2nd 32 mph "
3rd 48 mph "
4th 65 mph "
5th 80 mph "

On the MT you will want to shift around 2400-2600 rpm to stay closer to the best efficiency point.

On the MT you will want to shift around 2400-2600 rpm to stay closer to the best efficiency point.
Agreed. More than usual there is a little magic here - this amounts to shifting before the i-VTEC kicks in and sucks more air/fuel mixture.

I just filled up my new for the second time (AWD, 5SPD) and it came out to be just over 23 MPG. Not as high as I would like it, but mods may help with that. But, for a vehicle with only 800 miles on it, I can't complain too much.

ATO:shock:

I've been consistently getting 21 around town. Around town for me is 30mph and below, AC use, hills, and about a 3.5 mile one-way trip to work.

On the highway, it's been variable depending on conditions. As low as 25 (70-75 mph, AC use, lots of hills), and as high as 29 (65 mph, some AC use, a few hills). I've had two highway tanks of gas above 28 mpg, one at 25, and one at 26.5 mpg.

I'm THRILLED with the mileage I've been getting:-D:-D:-D. I think it's all about perspective...my previous vehicle would get 11-12 city and 17-18 highway in the conditions I described above. Also, my expectations I think were pessimistic...before I bought my E, I'd read threads of people complaining about gas mileage, so I had been counting on getting roughly about the new lower 2008 EPA ratings. I seem to be running roughly equal to or above the 07 ratings, so I'm very happy.

I commute between Orange County and LA. I usually gas up at the cheap Shell station off Brookhurst before making a 98% all highway commute to USC. I found I get 27 to 29 MPG. This is driving between 70-75 MPH, air conditioning on, no traffic.

I have an '04 Element 4WD EX, with 53,000 miles on it. I think the new found MPG came from my new Yokohama Geolandar H/T-S G051.

Before that I averaged 21 MPG with All Terrain Tires and a Roof rack for the same commute.

I've since removed the roof rack and put on the new tires and wow BLOWN AWAY by the gas mileage. I commute with an '07 Civic Hybrid which gets me about 45 MPG doing the same route. Taking the Element instead doesn't take as big of a bite out of the wallet anymore.

I drive the Chicago area, and never seem to get the MPG ratings I've seen posted here. My combined is about 18 MPG, city only 16.5 - 17.5 MPG.
HGHWY only 22-23 MPG. The best MPG I ever had was 24.5 @ 60 mph.
2004 AWD element w/ 70,000.
I'm not impressed with the gas mileage.:sad:

Go to www.GasPrices.com and check out their FUEL LOGBOOK feature!! I've used it over (2) years and it gives very precise accounting of your fuel usage.

Also, no place in this tread have I read about Modifications that can be done to INCREASE an Element's fuel mileage.

I've done a Search and obviously didn't type in the right words to find what I'm looking for. :rolleyes:

So, what Modifications can be done to INCREASE fuel mileage ? Please point my to the right place if need be. :cool:

I do not agree with IRVs comment on regular gas nor oils.

Though normal oils are initially fine...less refined oils do tend to break down much faster under heat and compression...I personally think mid or honda's synthetic oil are better choices for cars under waranty. I will probably go full synthetic once my waranty expires.

As for gas octanes. I think that his analogy is way off. Certainly you cannot CANNOT drive a car luxury or sports car efficiently or even close to well with regular octane gas. I have had friends out of desparation have fuel up with 89 and less in thier Lexus, Audis, Infinity..etc. I myself have done it with a BMW on a long drive trust me it is not pretty. Everything is thrown off. Car iddles harshly...like the engine is going to rock right off the mounts. It is a bad scene and I would not suggest this to anyone unless you HAVE to.

Higher octane results in higher temp combustion...also cleaner...you can achieve same power with less rpms...though not enough to register on your tach...but enough so that you can feel it when you drive. Try driving arround with a full tank of 87 octane...then try it with 94 octane...or 91 or whatever the highest is available in your area. See for yourself. Take nnote of mileage...and try to get a feel for the pedal. You will feel more power under hood.

A friend of mine has a tuned VW and he sees a huge difference in horse power between 94 and race gas...these are dyno tested results.

I am certainly not a gear head or anything like that but octane level does matter when it comes to power and economy.

Rather than the "shoe" anaolgy used...think of octane levels of concentration levels...the lower you go...you are getting less of the good stuff your engine needs to make clean and powerful combustions.

The trick is finding the balance between power and economy.

YIKES!!!!

I had to go back through this Thread to find out what I said.:D

This was quoted (a long time ago) from a .....don't ask me now from where, maybe GasBuddy.com....a respected source that is in agreement with most mainstream automotive advice that I've been exposed to.

If I owned a tuned VW or some LexusAudiInfinityCaddyHummerWinnabagoFJCruiserLinc olnCorvette that works better on high octane.....damn, I'd buy high octane.

I don't. I won't. 87 works just fine for me.

DISCLAIMER: I am not an automotive expert nor do not write an article for any newspapers. I do not have a radio or TV show giving advice on car care. I have never written a book...on any subject. I know how to drive (some family members disagree) and put gas in the tank.

This is the Internet.

"GETTING REGULAR

If your car specifies regular fuel, don't buy premium in the mistaken belief that your engine will run better. Using premium fuel in those circumstances is like buying bigger sneakers in the hope they'll help you run faster. Most cars are designed to run just fine on regular gasoline. Furthermore, many cars that recommend premium fuel also run well on regular. You can check with your dealership as to whether your engine is designed to handle either grade. If so, try a tankful or two of regular. If you see no difference in mileage or engine performance, stick with it.

BUY BARGIN FUEL AND OIL

Off-brand gasoline is most often identical to what is sold at franchised gas stations. Shop for the cheapest. Likewise, look for promotional sales at quick-lube shops. Just make sure the shop uses the correct service-grade and viscosity oil for your car. Following your car's recommended oil-change intervals is sufficient, which for most cars driven under normal conditions is 7,500 miles. While oil companies and lube shops may recommend changing oil every 3,000 miles, this can be an unnecessary expense. You can change the oil yourself-typically for $10 or so for oil and a filter. But since a commercial oil change routinely costs $20 or so, you have to weigh whether the savings is worth the time and effort, plus the hassle of safely disposing of your used oil."

I just bought a brand new SC and after my third fill up, I am still averaging 15.2 MPG. I don't accelerate or brake hard but I am still getting horrible gas milage. Any suggestions on what I should do or maybe get checked by the dealership? Or should this improve as the car gets broken in some more?

Had my SC for two weeks now and I am getting 24 MPH. Not bad I think..........

Go to www.GasPrices.com and check out their FUEL LOGBOOK feature!! I've used it over (2) years and it gives very precise accounting of your fuel usage.



Good gosh thats a lot of pop-ups on that site! I think I will stick to Excel for tracking mileage.

I'm sort of in the same boat, although not quite as bad as patr. My new SC barely makes 20 MPG, and I drive it conservatively. I'm patiently waiting until it's a few months old and have maybe 5-10K miles on it to see if it gets any better. By way of comparison, my '04 EX and '06 LX never got below 23, and I drive the new one the same way.

I just bought a brand new SC and after my third fill up, I am still averaging 15.2 MPG. I don't accelerate or brake hard but I am still getting horrible gas milage. Any suggestions on what I should do or maybe get checked by the dealership? Or should this improve as the car gets broken in some more?

Im sure somebody has already done some sort of poll like this but lets start another one! How many miles per gallon are you getting on average? What year is your car? What model? 2wd or 4wd? How many miles do you have on it?

I have a 2008 LX. Its 4wd. Its got 780 miles on it. The lowest i've ever gotten was 19mpg (and that was driving 70 on the freeway) and highest was 24mpg and that was doing 55mph freeway, city and stop n' go traffic. Today i've clocked it on average 21mpg. Better then my truck I got rid off for the Element! Lets do some sharing :razz:

2007 LX MT 4WD

About 17 or so in town driving like a maniac and about 26 on straight freeway driving around 70.

City = 19-21 MPG
Highway = 23-26 MPG

Mixed driving = 21 ave
hwy--23-24 ave

Mixed driving = 21 ave
hwy--23-24 ave


avg ~ 22 mpg

06 EX 2wd, 21-22 city driving. have only had the E for a month, and no real highway driving yet. but i'm going to tennessee in a week, so i'll get back with you....

04 EX 4wd
Avg 24mpg (about 70-80% freeway)
low 22mpg
high 27mpg
I have driven it about 6000 miles since I got it 10/30/2007

2005 AWD EX w/ Auto (4spd)
24K Miles in about 2 1/4 years
We are getting about 20 - 22 mpg in regular driving and 24-25mpg on the highway.

I drive about 75% highway and 25% city and get between 25-28 mpg. That's taking it easy on the gas and easy on the brakes. Also turn the engine off at lights when I know I'm going to sit there for over 20-30 seconds.

My '05 EX AWD MT has averaged 21.5 to 24.5 in mixed driving' depending heavily on temperature- this has much to do with the stiff Cooper ATR tires I run. They are very high rolling resistance in cold weather. On highway trips the range is 24.5 to 27.7 mpg running 65-70 through the PA mountains.

Note: I record every gallon of gas I use and odometer reading at each fill up. The only way to get a true mpg average and a great way to spot bad gas or engine trouble too.

Wifes '05 EX AWD AT averages 21 to 23 mpg in mixed driving and around 25 mpg on the highway with me driving. She is kinda hard on the brakes and not real smooth so her average is around 20 mpg in mixed.

Im sure somebody has already done some sort of poll like this but lets start another one!
No, let's not. New thread appended to this one.

City = ~21 MPG
Highway = ~24 MPG

I just got through my first tank of gas on an 03 EX AWD 4spd Auto. I averaged 23.4 MPG over 7 days of mixed driving and highway commuting to work every day.

That's right around to the highway estimate on the original sticker.

The AVERAGE mileage is exactly 22.97 MPG since new

I actually just got my Element yesterday, and I hooked up my Scangauge to it and put in the engine size and tank size so I could get my accurate readings. If you guys don't have one, I highly recommend in getting one. They are very precise. Anyway, I went to Blockbuster and Home Depot this morning (about 13 miles away from my home) and I averaged 28.9 mpg going there, and actually got 30.9 mpg on the way home. I wasn't driving like I normally do... I tend to have a lead foot :0 but I just wanted to see how many mpg I could get if I drove conservatively. Anyway, I am very happy with the results thus far.

-Greg

The best we get is 16 mpg ! we have the roof rack , bug shield , window visors , and Sc tires and wheels on a 2007 AWD ex .
i can not see how others are getting 20 mpg ? and i drive very easy going .

take the roof rack off ya might pick up some mpg..:D

This site is replete with threads about gas mileage. For a start you might want to take a look here:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34310

Your mileage varies with driving conditions (highway vs city traffic), how much stuff you're carrying in your Element, your use of accelerator, etc.

Take a look at what's been said, I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for.

The truth is out there!

jjpsuperdad i merged your thread with this one.You may find some hlepfull info here.

The AVERAGE mileage is exactly 22.97 MPG since new

That is a huge range. I know many of those are "break-in" miles, but still :confused:

If I throw out my two highest and lowest (over the past 4 years and 60,000miles) each of my tankfulls read 20point something to 23point something. There are a couple of 19s and 24s too, but very few.

I wish my numbers were higher, but I do like the consistancy.

Will

That is a huge range.

If I took the time to plot my mpg, thats exactly how mine would look too-- all city usually 17-19, once I get on the highway it jumps to 25-28, the only tanks inbetween are half city/ half highway. My old E got the same mpg as my new E too :rolleyes:

I got a 08' EX-AWD.
About four months old.
Currently about 7K miles.

On the first 3K I got about 18MPG city (but not city like NYC bumper to bumper). I am in Denver CO.
Hwy= 24MPG.

I put about 4K in the last two weeks. Trip to NY.
HWY=I got about 21.2MPG at worse and 22.1 at best.
Keep in mind we were doing about 75-82MPH and I noticed the RPM rised lots of times to 4.5. Cruise control was on most of the time.

In Denver the gas stations sell 85,87 and 89 gas. Because the altitude you can get away with 85 Octane here (was told at the dealership to use 85 octane).
However, I am gonna give it a shot to the 89 octane the next fill up and will report back.

There is no point in running premium in your E

If I took the time to plot my mpg, thats exactly how mine would look too--

Yeah....but 33-34ish mixed w/ mid to high teens seems kinds drastic to me.

I Have found that my "E" gets the best mileage on premium fuel. The difference in cost is made up in better mileage. The best highway speed is 65 mph and city driving is best at 2000 rpm and below.

Welcome, Gko1.

The regular-vs.-premium debate has been waged ad nauseam here and elsewhere. Please let's not stir up that hornet's nest.

I Have found that my "E" gets the best mileage on premium fuel. The difference in cost is made up in better mileage. The best highway speed is 65 mph and city driving is best at 2000 rpm and below.

I agree with what ramblerdan said about premium vs. regular so would not discuss that, but I agree on the < 2000 rpm in the city!

Hey all,

The one I use is the fact that 10 litres per 100 kilometres is 28 mpg Canadian. (24 US??)
Since my E almost always gets around this number...its a good reference point.

If I buy 44 litres of gas... and the odometer shows 440 km, I got 28 mpg...

If it shows 400 km.. I got 25mpg (10% less)

easy eh? :-)

Clunie...

Hey all,

The one I use is the fact that 10 litres per 100 kilometres is 28 mpg Canadian. (24 US??)
Since my E almost always gets around this number...its a good reference point.

If I buy 44 litres of gas... and the odometer shows 440 km, I got 28 mpg...

If it shows 400 km.. I got 25mpg (10% less)

easy eh? :-)

Clunie...



...watch out this dude is likely using the dreaded Imperial Gallen further skewing the results.... :-)