Why do they have to do so much odd ball stuff and have no proper adapters? An oddball antenna connection . . . check. Lets see, three dozen or so head unit installs in my lifetime (side job in college) and never had a car that didn't have a standard antenna plug. So, everything is torn apart and realize I need a special adapter, but where to find? Local shop doesn't have, they can order it but 2 weeks!!!. My stuff is torn apart right now!!!!

I have the Metra 70-1725 w/ RCA spliced in already, just need to splice in for sub. My question is, do you just stick the male RCA into one channel on the HU or do you buy, yet another adapter to bridge the two females down to one? Also, what is with the leftover plugs from the factory HU (green and white)? Green = xm? White = ?

~$20 for harness
~$20 for dash kit
~$6 for (1) male RCA
~$? power antenna adapter
~$? steering wheel control (going to wait, I don't remember the exact price, but it was a lot and it is manufacture specific. I may switch to another manufacturer for something like the Avic D3 at some point.)

Either way, it is a pricey install. I would have preferred a discount and had them just leave the factory system out.

Yeah, welcome to the "new" world of moblie electronics. At least Honda had the sense to not put an oil pressure sensor, or a computer that would disable the car's computer if the radio wasn't there. Did you check your local bestbuy/circuitcity/walmart or local mom and pop stores? Somebody's bound to have one.

Ok I tracked one down, another $17. Damn, expensive install. Ok, so one last question. The sub has the red/white and red/blue, but what is the third wire (black or dark grey)? What do I connect it to?

Sub is a dual voice coil sub.
Just a little gee wiz info that I could have used BEFORE I tore my stuff apart to do my Parrot 3200 bluetooth install. Grrrr.
I think each one of those red/something wires is the positive for one voice coil.

I just capped off the black wire and all seems to work. Quite well, actually. :) A sound test around the block, I noticed that I miss the clock. But the sound is great and I am glad to have iPod integration/control through the deck again. The deck came out of my old Volvo and I had been driving with the stock since October and the Alpine just sitting around, glad it is finally in.

However, after reading about the $500 Jensen, it is tickling my fancy. I always thought Jensen, Audiovox, Kraco, Pyramid, etc. will fire catching flea market crap, but a lot seem to like the Jensen unit. I may have to see if I can sell the 9883 ($100-125) and put towards the Jensen. Now that I have all the installation accessories and know what is what, it would be easy to swap out.

RED/BLU is sub+....RED/WHT is sub-....PNK/BLK is just a shield around the cable, don't hook it up. Hook these wires up to a male RCA and just hook to one RCA subwoofer output of your HU. One of the colored connector is XM (I think green) and the other is the Aux input from the plug above the glove box.

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42074

if you're going to be doing a lot of electrical installs yourself on the E, it would be a good suggestion to get a service manual.....they're around $75 but worth every penny :D

RED/BLU is sub+....RED/WHT is sub-....PNK/BLK is just a shield around the cable

You sure about that? Because when I did the bluetooth install, I cut both of those wires and hooked them into the switched circuit on the bluetooth controller. It opens up and is supposed to mute the sub when making a call. Well, I checked both those wires and tried to open them up and the sub never completely went dead because the other coil was still being powered somehow. I ended up hooking another relay in line with the actual wires coming out of the amp to finally get the thing to shut down when in a call.

What years is that schematic for? Maybe things changed for the 08's?

You sure about that? Because when I did the bluetooth install, I cut both of those wires and hooked them into the switched circuit on the bluetooth controller. It opens up and is supposed to mute the sub when making a call. Well, I checked both those wires and tried to open them up and the sub never completely went dead because the other coil was still being powered somehow. I ended up hooking another relay in line with the actual wires coming out of the amp to finally get the thing to shut down when in a call.

What years is that schematic for? Maybe things changed for the 08's?
I've got an '08 and I hooked my Pioneer HU up to the factory sub just as I described above. Maybe the sheild is grounded somewhere inline and you were getting half voltage:confused: