This diagram is ONLY for the SC, EX, and EX-P with the factory double-DIN radio, amplifier, and subwoofer. This is NOT for the DX or LX.

The first picture shows how the radio is basically wired from Honda. The radio puts out a line-level(low-level) signal to the amplifier thru the big black harness. It puts out a mono signal for the subwoofer via the small black harness with white guts. The amplifier then sends the amplified signal out to the speakers and subwoofer. Note the sub is dual voice coil but uses a mono signal.

To hook up the radio to the factory sub, you will need a male RCA plug to splice into the small black subwoofer harness. The easiest way to do this is take an old RCA cable, cut off an end and strip back the wires. On most cables there is an outer shield which is the negative, and a center conductor which goes to the pin for positive.

The diagram pic shows how an aftermarket radio would be hooked up. Metra makes a harness (70-1725) which allows you to hook the radio's RCA outputs to the facory harness (more on this later). You will also need an antenna adapter.

For the subwoofer connection, splice the RCA's negative wire to the red with white stripe on the subwoofer harness. Then splice the center (positve) conductor to the red with blue stripe. The pink with black stripe does not get hooked up. Since the signal is mono, you don't have to hook up both channels to the radio output unless you just want to.

Splicing the wires could be done several ways...you could just strip back some of the insulation behind the connector, wrap the RCA's wires around the bare conductor, then solder and tape. Another option would to use t-taps which you can buy at most auto parts stores. T-taps clamp onto the wire and when squeezed with pliers, a small blade pierces the insulation to complete the connection. Another option (not recommended if still under warranty) is to simply clip the black connector off and splice the wires directly.

The Metra harness mentioned earlier makes life so much easier, however any aftermarket wiring harness will do. You will just have to put male RCA plugs on all of the input wires.

If your radio doesn't have RCA outputs, you will have to install a line-level converter on the radio's speaker outputs. This will convert the high-level speaker outputs to line-level to go to the Honda amp.

A good point was brought up in another thread. You could just run the highs off of the radio output and run the sub off the facory amp if you wanted to. Either run new wires to the speaker locations or splice into them at the amp outputs. The amp is located behind the passenger-side kickpanel. See here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums//showthread.php?p=536425) for the amp's wiring color code.

Dude, thank god!!! This needs to be stickied...IMMEDIATELY!!! The only thing I would say is that I don't condone the use of t-taps, but to each their own. This should answer a lot of questions in the future, nice job.

What if your speakers are running off your harness and the back of the deck is as follows.
-----------F----R
L---O-----O----O
R---O-----O----O
--AUX IN


Where do I plug my sub into? Or do I need a line level converter?

Thanks

can we PM's moderators for a sticky.. great info right here...

Great writeup!!!! Thanks!!

What if your speakers are running off your harness and the back of the deck is as follows.
-----------F----R
L---O-----O----O
R---O-----O----O
--AUX IN


Where do I plug my sub into? Or do I need a line level converter?

Thanks

You can use either the front or rear rca outputs of the headunit, depends on how you want the sub to fade (if at all) Also, you will not have a sub "volume control" with this set-up. Also, (and BigAl might have the answer) not sure if the factory amp is has a built in crossover or if it was in the stock headunit.

You can use either the front or rear rca outputs of the headunit, depends on how you want the sub to fade (if at all) Also, you will not have a sub "volume control" with this set-up. Also, (and BigAl might have the answer) not sure if the factory amp is has a built in crossover or if it was in the stock headunit.
So no line level converter needed?

My new HU has no RCA's Labeled SUB out. Just RCA's for Aux, speakers and video.

Should I install a line level like bellow and connect the sub as discribed by the OP into the front outputs?

excellent write up, BigAl. This saved me from going insane since my initial Avic install gave mediocre sound. Thank you!

My new HU has no RCA's Labeled SUB out. Just RCA's for Aux, speakers and video.

Should I install a line level like bellow and connect the sub as discribed by the OP into the front outputs?

What model radio do you have? I don't know if the factory amp has a built in crossover so you might have to install one if your radio doesn't have one built-in.

Nice job there Alan. Now I will take on the addition of an amp! Thank you.

I made an addition to my OP. See above...

Great job on the how to Big Al.

What model radio do you have? I don't know if the factory amp has a built in crossover so you might have to install one if your radio doesn't have one built-in.

http://www.mp3playerstore.com/stuff_you_need/dvd/IN-657GPS.html

:confused:

And if I do need one will this work? Or do I need a 4 channel one?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444188 9475&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672459&bmUID=1230471106222

http://www.canadiantire.ca/media/images/products/images/Automotive/CarStereos/WiringInstallationKits/0350012_450_SC_v1_m56577569830569237.jpg

http://www.mp3playerstore.com/stuff_you_need/dvd/IN-657GPS.html

:confused:
In your particular case, you don't need a line-level converter since it has RCA outputs. Your unit, however doesn't have sub outs so you will need to 'Y' off of one of the channels and install an in-line crossover to cut out the high frequencies. You could use something as simple as an F-Mod in-line (easy), or you could go with something with adjustment. http://www.crutchfield.com/g_82600/Crossovers.html?tp=117

http://www.mp3playerstore.com/stuff_you_need/dvd/IN-657GPS.html

:confused:

And if I do need one will this work? Or do I need a 4 channel one?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444188 9475&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672459&bmUID=1230471106222

http://www.canadiantire.ca/media/images/products/images/Automotive/CarStereos/WiringInstallationKits/0350012_450_SC_v1_m56577569830569237.jpg

Wow, a $500 head unit that doesn't have a sub out on it :confused: I personally don't see the need to do what your diagram is suggesting. If your not using the RCA outs that come with the head unit to power the factory amp, why pay for another part to accomplish what is already provided. My only concern is whether or not there is a crossover built into the factory amp.

I've got an idea...My Pioneer radio has the x-over built in. I will play it with the x-over turned on and then turn it off. If the sub starts playing full-range, then I will know that the amp doesn't have one built in. It's raining right now so give me a few minutes...

Okay...aparrently the facory amp does NOT have a built in crossover...or at least it's filtered at such a high frequency that it's useless IMO. After playing around with the crossover settings on my headunit, I think the factory sub sounds best filtered at either 80 or 100 HZ, with 80 Hertz being my choice. If an aftermarket radio doesn't have sub outs, then it would definately sound better with some sort of low-pass filter.

Okay...aparrently the facory amp does NOT have a built in crossover...or at least it's filtered at such a high frequency that it's useless IMO. After playing around with the crossover settings on my headunit, I think the factory sub sounds best filtered at either 80 or 100 HZ, with 80 Hertz being my choice. If an aftermarket radio doesn't have sub outs, then it would definately sound better with some sort of low-pass filter.

With that being said, then OUZO Power may want to consider something like this PAC XOVER (http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-Active-Electronic-Low-Pass-Subwoofer-Crossover_W0QQitemZ110329453243QQcmdZViewItemQQims xZ20081223?IMSfp=TL081223118004r8792#ebayphotohost ing)

Wow, a $500 head unit that doesn't have a sub out on it :confused: I personally don't see the need to do what your diagram is suggesting. If your not using the RCA outs that come with the head unit to power the factory amp, why pay for another part to accomplish what is already provided. My only concern is whether or not there is a crossover built into the factory amp.Well it's all in one with GPS and I got it for $220 new. Got 4 of them for all my cars.

They work great in all of them. But I have no sub function in the element.

Okay...aparrently the facory amp does NOT have a built in crossover...or at least it's filtered at such a high frequency that it's useless IMO. After playing around with the crossover settings on my headunit, I think the factory sub sounds best filtered at either 80 or 100 HZ, with 80 Hertz being my choice. If an aftermarket radio doesn't have sub outs, then it would definately sound better with some sort of low-pass filter.So get a 80 HZ Fmod.

THANK YOU SO MUCH.

With that being said, then OUZO Power may want to consider something like this PAC XOVER (http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-Active-Electronic-Low-Pass-Subwoofer-Crossover_W0QQitemZ110329453243QQcmdZViewItemQQims xZ20081223?IMSfp=TL081223118004r8792#ebayphotohost ing)
That would work to give frequency adjustment. I just think the F-Mod would be an easier 'no-wires' installation. Either way, you won't have any independent subwoofer volume control unless you went with a more expensive AudioControl or Rockford Fosgate. Try the F-Mod first, that way you're not out a whole lot of cash.

So get a 80 HZ Fmod.

THANK YOU SO MUCH.
No problem...keep us posted.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2w7pm38.jpg

thats my new hifonics amp, i bought for 1 10" sub in the back... i also have a diamond audio amp i will be using for my front door speakers, and the factory sub.

only problem.. the factory sub.. or "factory sub replacement" (kicker 6.5") won't take those really low freq... it hits really hard, but won't rock those low notes.. so im going to be using the subsonic filter..

subsonic filters are basically freq. baselines. for instance. this amp in particular will go down to 15hz. and i can set its low pass (high baseline) to 35hz. thats not much bass to hear. but with the subsonic.. i can raise my lowpass to 100hz, and raise my subsonic to 60hz... and i wont get all those low freq. and really heat up my voice coils on that tiny 6.5'' kicker.

so if your head units don't have EQ's.. you can still get away with using your amps crossovers.

Well the good news is I got my sub to work.

- I went and bought a Crossover. Nada
- Tried different configurations. Nada

- Finally I went back to the original setup. Pluged the RCA into the Rear Right RCA Output. TADA

Now I only have to figure out why I have alternator whine when in GPS mode. It has to do with the external GPS HardDrive. Cause when I unplug it the whine goes away.

Thanks for your help guys.

alt. whine is always grounds.. end of story.

and when you unplug that GPS, your lowering the current usage. so its a ground issue.

To hook up the radio to the factory sub, you will need a male RCA plug to splice into the small black subwoofer harness. The easiest way to do this is take an old RCA cable, cut off an end and strip back the wires. On most cables there is an outer shield which is the negative, and a center conductor which goes to the pin for positive.

The diagram pic shows how an aftermarket radio would be hooked up. Metra makes a harness (70-1725) which allows you to hook the radio's RCA outputs to the facory harness (more on this later). You will also need an antenna adapter.

ok, i have the metra with the RCAS. now, i plug the RCA's into the front and rear inputs, and the speaker wire on the harness that came with my kenwood is not used. then for the sub, i splice a RCA onto it with a splice and plug that into the other set of RCA's?

My 3 rows of RCA inputs are as follows

AV out W-R
Rear/SW W-R
Front W-R

now, with the Metra with the RCA's, does it matter what color goes into red or white? i know that white and grey and purple and green should go in the same rows since they are connected, but im not sure if it matters if "Green goes in red and Purple goes in White" etc.

thanks

Left is white, right is red. I just realized that in my drawing I drew them backwards...ooops. :oops: So whatever the instructions for the metra says, plug the left into white and the right into red.

Up until now I haven't looked up your particular radio but it looks like it has only front and rear OR front and sub outputs, depending on how you set it up in the menu. I think the A/V outputs are only to be hooked up to external devices such as wireless headsets, etc. I don't know if you could use it as a subwoofer output. You may have to wye off of one of the rear channels to run the sub.

Left is white, right is red. I just realized that in my drawing I drew them backwards...ooops. :oops: So whatever the instructions for the metra says, plug the left into white and the right into red.

Up until now I haven't looked up your particular radio but it looks like it has only front and rear OR front and sub outputs, depending on how you set it up in the menu. I think the A/V outputs are only to be hooked up to external devices such as wireless headsets, etc. I don't know if you could use it as a subwoofer output. You may have to wye off of one of the rear channels to run the sub.


He might be better off to y-off of the front channels to run the 4 door speakers and use the rear to drive the subs so he can utilize the crossover portion of the headunit. Why don't companies just make them full equipped with F/R/S out, especiall on a head unit like that. WTF :rolleyes:

He might be better off to y-off of the front channels to run the 4 door speakers and use the rear to drive the subs so he can utilize the crossover portion of the headunit. Why don't companies just make them full equipped with F/R/S out, especiall on a head unit like that. WTF :rolleyes:
Good idea...you wouldn't have fader control but you would have control over the sub.

would that be like this diagram you posted?
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=701631&postcount=18

would that be like this diagram you posted?
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=701631&postcount=18
What we're talking about is running the sub off of the Rear/SW output and running the rest with just the front outputs. You will need a couple of 2-Female to 1-Male Y-adapters (looks like a trip to the elecronics store). You will be running all of the Metra RCA's to just the front radio outputs. You will lose fader control from front to rear (which I leave centered, anyways) but you will have control of the subwoofer and it's crossover point :wink:

What we're talking about is running the sub off of the Rear/SW output and running the rest with just the front outputs. You will need a couple of 2-Female to 1-Male Y-adapters (looks like a trip to the elecronics store). You will be running all of the Metra RCA's to just the front radio outputs. You will lose fader control from front to rear (which I leave centered, anyways) but you will have control of the subwoofer and it's crossover point :wink:

ahhhh i was just there to get the Metra and antenna pieces!!!! im going mad! :evil::evil::evil:

but what you said, is it like that picture that i linked to? sounds like it but i want to make sure

ahhhh i was just there to get the Metra and antenna pieces!!!! im going mad! :evil::evil::evil:

but what you said, is it like that picture that i linked to? sounds like it but i want to make sure
Not quite. You just had to make me draw another picture didn't you? :wink:

P.S. Don't blame me...blame Kenwood. :cool:

sweet thanks

your good at drawing them, so im sure its ok haha

We could make it more complicated and say to use a LOC on the rear speaker outputs to feed the OEM amp a line level signal for rear speakers, use the front rca outputs for the fronts and switch the rears to sub to run the sub :cool: Although I love to have control over the entire system, I am with BigAl, not having front/rear fad control is not as critical as having sub level and xover control. Don't make me drive down to Indiana to install this for you ;)

...or just for giggles I could have the next guy wire his remote output straight to ground. Who needs a fuse? :rolleyes:

Just kidding...DO NOT do this.

We could make it more complicated and say to use a LOC on the rear speaker outputs to feed the OEM amp a line level signal for rear speakers, use the front rca outputs for the fronts and switch the rears to sub to run the sub :cool: Although I love to have control over the entire system, I am with BigAl, not having front/rear fad control is not as critical as having sub level and xover control. Don't make me drive down to Indiana to install this for you ;)

haha with that final diagram, i get it
but 3 or 4 days ago you should have offered this

i got my Y splitters in and ready to go, all i need is my neighbors soldering gun, which im borrowing tomorrow

Oh wait! You have Rallye Red. Those wire up completely different. :rolleyes:

JK

haha this changes everything....

haha with that final diagram, i get it
but 3 or 4 days ago you should have offered this

i got my Y splitters in and ready to go, all i need is my neighbors soldering gun, which im borrowing tomorrow

Well, see, if I would have had to drive down there to install it, I would have had to beaten you like a ralley red headed step child :razz: Anyways, hope it works out and you get it all done soon.

should i use both white and red RCAs for the sub? using just the red (right) input, im missing some bass from the sub. should i also wire a white (left) connector? where would i tie this in?

should i use both white and red RCAs for the sub? using just the red (right) input, im missing some bass from the sub. should i also wire a white (left) connector? where would i tie this in?

Mine worked just with connecting the right alone.

Do you have sub control? If not your sub will work but but not like it was with the stock radio.

Mine worked just with connecting the right alone.

Do you have sub control? If not your sub will work but but not like it was with the stock radio.

what could i use for sub control? and do you think plugging in a white would help me out?

should i use both white and red RCAs for the sub? using just the red (right) input, im missing some bass from the sub. should i also wire a white (left) connector? where would i tie this in?
It shouldn't matter. Since the sub out should be strictly mono. Are you sure that you have it set for "sub out" in the radio's audio setting and not "full range" or "rear". I don't know how your menu works, you will have to do some searching and experimenting. You may have the crossover set too low (I reccomend 80 or 100 HZ) or the sub out may be turned too low.

After you check your menu, change the balance to far left and then to far right and see if the outout on the sub changes. You may have to hook it up to a certain channel to get the best sound. Hooking up both shouldn't be necessay. If you did, you would just hook up the other RCA at the same points you did for the red one, thereby having two RCA's going to the same wires. Either this or use another Y-cable. Hook the two RCA's to the left and right sub outputs.

Don't make me draw another picture :twisted:

It shouldn't matter. Since the sub out should be strictly mono. Are you sure that you have it set for "sub out" in the radio's audio setting and not "full range" or "rear". I don't know how your menu works, you will have to do some searching and experimenting. You may have the crossover set too low (I reccomend 80 or 100 HZ) or the sub out may be turned too low.

After you check your menu, change the balance to far left and then to far right and see if the outout on the sub changes. You may have to hook it up to a certain channel to get the best sound. Hooking up both shouldn't be necessay. If you did, you would just hook up the other RCA at the same points you did for the red one, thereby having two RCA's going to the same wires. Either this or use another Y-cable. Hook the two RCA's to the left and right sub outputs.

Don't make me draw another picture :twisted:

ok ill go try this out

I know on my D3 I pretty much had to have to sub out on 4 out of 6 to be close to the factory radio's output on the sub channel. So like BigAl said, check the x-over and the level.

thought id ask the question here instead of pming bigal

since i JUST got my head unit in today and since i wont have any install time till sat around 4 i wanted to poll this audiance and ask the following

i jsut recived the pioneer f90bt

shall i bypass the stock amp and power the front four speakers from the reciver its self or should i use the 3 aux outs and wire into the stock amp with a wireing harness

then amp and speaker upgrades wont be shipped for a few weeks and id love to have the nav now and customize my avic before the rest of the goodies come in

ive looked over the wireing diagrams, none of the cabling is "frightening" its all cables to me but for sound quality and the such i was currious what other E users have done when using an aftermarket HU with the rest factory

and YES i have read that other guys (the harley tech) problems he had with this setup and im aware of the phasing issues jsut wanted insight how you all would do it

so

HU with indash amp ---> speakers
run an aux out to the factory amp ---> sub

or

HU 3 aux outs ---> all the appropriate inputs on the factory amp


remember its gunna be taken apart in a month for the rest of the install
thanks guys, cant wait for your recomendations

In my opinion, if your gonna be adding external amps for all speakers later, it's easier to just run line level out for F,R & S right now. You can basically do the entire install in the dash cavity and in a very short time. It's easy and cheap.

so grab a metra 70-1721 and just do it and call it good?

so grab a metra 70-1721 and just do it and call it good?

NOPE. Grab a metra 70-1725 for super easy rca plug in for the front and rear,then add your own RCA end for the sub. 8)

NOPE. Grab a metra 70-1725 for super easy rca plug in for the front and rear,then add your own RCA end for the sub. 8)

:Dhttp://www.sherv.net/cm/page/hidden/yahoo/hidden-33.gif:D

What he said...and don't forget an antenna adapter :cool:

What he said...and don't forget an antenna adapter :cool:

Yea, I forget that part cause mine didn't need it :-|

jsut called the local cartoys... install will be done sat after work thanks to them having ONE harness in stock :D install pictures to come

I have a 2004 EX with factory AMP and sub.
I'm installing a pioneer DEHP510UB for use with factory speakers for now.
The stereo shop sold me the metra 1721 harness instead of 1725.

They say they think the factory amp is ok to accept the speaker wire input as opposed to the 1725's line level RCA plugs.
"That's the way we've always done it"
Are they correct?

I've already got this 1721 all soldered up and ready to plug in.
I've made the RCA cable deal to power the amp.

Should I buy the AMP bypass harness and use the Pioneers internal amp?
Or go trade this 1721 for the 1725?

Am i gonna burn up the factory amp?
Thanks. Ben

And do i need to power the antenna?
This older Element doesn't have that newer goofy antenna plug, just the old standard round style.
thanks.

If your going to maintain the use of the factory amp, I would suggest feeding it a line level signal, not the powered output of the headunits internal amplifier. I will say this now though, because I know somebody is going to come and argue that I am wrong...it can and will work using the headunit's output to feed the factory amp, but I personally don't believe it to be the best way. Also, no power needed for the antenna on your 04.

thanks a ton for the quick response.
I'm a novice at car audio, but pretty good with electronics.
i'm not getting much help from the shop where i bought.
they are a little irritated i think that i didn't hire them to do it.

i cannot get this thing to work, but i'm learning a TON.

i've been messing with it all evening. (3 nights now)
i went ahead and plugged it all in tonight using the 1721 adapter.
i made an RCA plug to power the amp.
Still no sound.
then i made another plug to power the amp using the blue/white wire from the HU that's intended for powering external devices.
then i grounded the other wire.

i still cannot get any sound.

I think there is a setting in the HU to turn off the internal Amp.
will that change the standard speaker wires to line level?

Is there a chance the factory amp is not working since i'm trying to feed it the powered output?

If you were me......

would you just bypass the factory AMP?
i like good quality sound, but i'm not the type that has modified the sound systems in all my cars with huge woofers and amps.

i dont listed to loud thumpin' stuff, just country, rock, and lots of talk radio and audio books.

Ben.

What head unit are you installing?

What do you mean you made an RCA plug to power the amp?

You grounded what other wire?

I just used the factory amp, it made for a very easy installation. I plan on installing a 4 channel amp under the passenger seat eventually though.

Is there any way you can provide a picture of how you have the radio's harness wired into the 70-1721?

I'm installing a pioneer DEHP510UB.
The stereo shop sold me the metra 1721 harness instead of 1725
1721 has just bare speaker wires.
1725 has RCA male ends for line level connections.

RCA plug to power amp is in the 4th picture of this post
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41040&highlight=cda-9885

How did you power the factory amp?
i'll try to send a pic of mine.

I see that your uploading a pic, i will wait to see it. Do you have any instant messenger programs?

Here are some pics of my Metra 1721 that i can't get to work.

no sorry i have never used an IM
i appreciate your interest in helping.

the pics i posted don't have the rca to power adapter i made.
i couldn't get the system to work with that setup.

so then i wired it up as shown in the pics.
the read lead comes from the blue/white wire from the aftermarket HU.
Blck wire ground.

those two should power the amp

i went back out to the garage and tried turning off the HU's internal amp.
still no luck.

maybe i fried the Honda's amp.

What wire on the 1721 do you have the blue/white wire from the headunit hooked to? It should be hooked to the blue wire. Does the headunit even turn on?

that RCA wire trick is also shown very well at the beginning of this thread.

Herein Lies the problem.
the 1721 has no Blue wire.

so the head units blue/white is connected to my hillbilly homemade red wire to plug into the amps factory little black plug.

yes the HU turns on.

just no sound.

Ok...you should be pretty much color for color from the pioneer to the 1721


pioneer 1721
red red
yellow yellow
black black
blue/white blue
white white
white/blk white/bll
etc.....

The rca 'trick' has NOTHING to do with power, it just provides signal from the head unit to the sub portion of the factory amp. If you don't have the blue/white hooked to blue, the factory amp will not turn on.

what i haven't done is to open the passenger side kick panel to check with a V.O.Meter if power is getting down there.

i checked it at the back side of the little black plug and it gets 12v when HU is on and nothing when the HU is off. just like it's supposed to.

So, i think i'm powering the amp just fine.
just no sound.

and i'm gonna run out of beer if i mess with this too many more evenings.

there is no blue wire on the 1721

the pics i posted don't have the rca to power adapter i made.
i couldn't get the system to work with that setup.

so then i wired it up as shown in the pics.
the read lead comes from the blue/white wire from the aftermarket HU.
Blck wire ground.

those two should power the amp

NO no no, the blue/white wire from the headunit should mate with a wire that would be on the part of the harness that plugs into the 1721, not the sub portion....feeding power into that sub connector like your doing is wrong and could damage the factory amp.

there is no blue wire on the 1721


You got a jenky azz harness....there's your problem.

ok you're right.
i'm a little embarrassed.
i thought that little black plug was to power the amp, not the sub.

still, i think i've read that there is no blue wire in the 1721.

now i know why the shop sounds irritated when i keep calling.
they think i'm an idiot.
i guess i am.

i know i've told them that i don't have a blue wire on the 1721 though.

do you suppose they will reimburse me for all the beer i've gone thru?

now i know why the shop sounds irritated when i keep calling.
they think i'm an idiot.
i guess i am.

i know i've told them that i don't have a blue wire on the 1721 though.

do you suppose they will reimburse me for all the beer i've gone thru?

Maybe you should take them some ;) I am trying to find a pic to show you were the blue wire should be.

i was just trying to find a pic too.
i'll bet it's supposed to be the spot right next to the red?

i was just trying to find a pic too.
i'll bet it's supposed to be the spot right next to the red?


Yep, that should be the spot. You can always verify the amp still works by plugging your factory head unit back in. If the amp does indeed still play, take your DMM and measure that spot with the radio off and on to make sure that is indeed the turn on lead. Make sense?

yeah, thanks.
i'll check the voltage at that position beside the red wire with the factory unit back in place. I've had that dang thing in and out 4 times now.

I'll go see my "friends" at the stereo shop and show them i'm not completely nuts.

i'll trade it for a 1725 if i didn't already fry my amp.
trade for another 1721 and an amp bypass harness if i did fry the amp.

man i learned a lot the last few nights.
thanks for your help.

yeah, thanks.
i'll check the voltage at that position beside the red wire with the factory unit back in place. I've had that dang thing in and out 4 times now.

I'll go see my "friends" at the stereo shop and show them i'm not completely nuts.

i'll trade it for a 1725 if i didn't already fry my amp.
trade for another 1721 and an amp bypass harness if i did fry the amp.

man i learned a lot the last few nights.
thanks for your help.

No problem, hope all turns out ok.

sorry wrong thread

3 pages in about 4 hours. :rolleyes:

Big Al, did i do something wrong by posting so much?
i'm new to forums, let me know if my forum etiquette needs work.

3 pages in about 4 hours. :rolleyes:

Big Al, did i do something wrong by posting so much?
i'm new to forums, let me know if my forum etiquette needs work.

Naa, I think he was poking fun. Actually, I was the one that should have took the 'conversation' to PM's that way we weren't tying up valuable space. Although, what we ended up with may indeed help somebody some day, it wasn't in the best format. A mod may come along and clean it up...who knows. Don't sweat it :D

I'm sorry, benl. I sent you a PM explaining what I meant. :oops:

Actually, I was following the dialogue with bated breath!:)

I can't wait to see the conclusion.

benl... you're in there slugging away and thats what its all about. You have good coaches on the sideline.

I just called my stereo shop.

My harness adapter is a db LINK brand as opposed to METRA

I had him look at another db LINK 1721 he had there.

there is NO BLUE WIRE in the db link brand harness adapter.

There IS a blue wire in the 1725

I'm guessing the METRA is the same.

My conclusions:
the 1721 was intended for non amped systems. (it has been around forever)
the 1725 is intended for the amped systems.

i can either make my own plug to feed that terminal or go trade for the 1725.
i will go trade.
and spend just one more evening on this.
i better go to the caryout first.

I just called my stereo shop.

My harness adapter is a db LINK brand as opposed to METRA

I had him look at another db LINK 1721 he had there.

there is NO BLUE WIRE in the db link brand harness adapter.

There IS a blue wire in the 1725

I'm guessing the METRA is the same.

My conclusions:
the 1721 was intended for non amped systems. (it has been around forever)
the 1725 is intended for the amped systems.

i can either make my own plug to feed that terminal or go trade for the 1725.
i will go trade.
and spend just one more evening on this.
i better go to the caryout first.
Okay...so the amp turn-on lead isn't blue on this harness. You will have to look at the wiring instructions for the 'remote' or 'remote turn-on' or whatever term they use. This will be the wire that you hook the radio's BLU/WHT wire up to.

What wire on the sub harness did you accidentally hook the power to? The PNK/BLK is a grounded shield so you might have blown a fuse somewhere.

Okay...so the amp turn-on lead isn't blue on this harness. You will have to look at the wiring instructions for the 'remote' or 'remote turn-on' or whatever term they use. This will be the wire that you hook the radio's BLU/WHT wire up to.

What wire on the sub harness did you accidentally hook the power to? The PNK/BLK is a grounded shield so you might have blown a fuse somewhere.

I don't even think it has a wire for the amp turn on in this harness. I believe what we figured out last night was that the location for the turn on lead was blank. I think he's better off just getting the 70-1725 or equivelant.

this is awesome! I just got a new Element and had a Kenwood system installed. Installer said he wouldn't be able to get the Sub to work. I'm going to print the diagram up and bring it to him on Saturday. See if he can make it work.

Thanks for the awesome post!!

AL

Hey I just bought and '07 EX and am currently working on putting in an aftermarket cd player. You have helped so ridiculously much already with this project, but I was wondering how you used the Metra 70-1725 harness on yours, did you just pull the pins out and use them to replace the ones with the actual fitting harness you can acquire from somewhere like crutchfield? I don't wanna buy the harness without actually seeing the pin sizes of the Metra compared to the other fitted one. Thanks...

the metra 70-1725 harness has rca inputs that go out to the factory amp instead of speaker wires. that is the difference between this and a normal 70-1721 style harness. look at bigal's sig and you can see what it is all about, easier than trying to explain it.

Right, I understand what needs to be done as far as hooking up RCA's, but does the 70-1725 actually FIT the stock stereo connector coming from the dash? I am just seeing picture of it online and it doesn't look like it fits, thats all. Just trying to avoid cutting up a bunch of RCA plugs...

yes it plugs right in, but only to the main harness. you will HAVE to cut up an rca to wire up the sub plug and something for the aux input if your new radio has that feature on the back of it. the 70-1725 is exactly the same harness as the 70-1721 but with rcas instead of speaker wires. same connector/plug.

Cool, I was just worried after looking at the two compared to each other, I hope everyone's word on here is correct. I have included some links so you can see what I mean by how drastically different they look. The second one is from crutchfield and matches exactly to the stock plug from my EX. The first doesn't even seem to come close to looking like it would fit...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12492_Metra+70-1725.html#


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701721/Honda-Acura-Suzuki-Receiver-Wire-Harness.html?tp=736

The reason you think the one looks like it fits and the other doesn't is because of the color of the plug. :)

Metra used to mold them in the factory color too and I bet the one you get from crutchfield would be whire as most are now days even if they are shown in blue in a picture. Trust us. The 70-1725 is what you need.

Actually, I just zoomed in on the two items pictured and saw that the actual construction of the plastic did not match up with each other. This is why I was worried about buying the Metra. The pegs along the top and bottom don't look like they match up at all. As long as the pins match up with the right female pins on the factory plug I suppose that is good enough for me. You have to understand that I am actually an aviation electronics technician in the Navy, so I am very used to having to have things EXACTLY like they should be (according to military specifications). Thanks for your help!

i hear what you're saying, but you wont get those "exacting standards" from ANY harness manufacturer. :) I live 15 minutes from metra and know alot of the guys there on a personal level and they have actually had my SC apart several times testing .... well lets just say "things" ;) that is the harness you need and it will work much better than going high level into the amp cause you wouldnt ever hear the sub. I hope you arent thinking me or anyone else on here is being harsh, it's just the way it comes across in typed form vs actually talking to someone.

Right right, awesome man. Yeah I have only had the Element for 3 weeks and never have I had trouble with aftermarket parts installation on any other car, I just want to make sure I get it right. I really appreciate the input and help, it definitely saved me money and headaches in the end... I hope I can use you as a resource in the future as well!

anytime :)

I think the picture on the Sonic website is just a generic pic...not the real one.

Another quick question...my Pioneer has awesome audio options, and crystal clear sound when used in every car it has been in. With the RCA's running to the factory amp, will I still have the audio quality as if it were hooked up to the regular speaker wires coming from the head unit? I will not be putting in subs or anything like that either, so I am hoping the head unit will complement the factory speakers well enough...

all you can do there is try. that is a matter of personal taste but i would plan on maybe running wires down to the passenger kickpanel and catching the output of the factory amp and bypassing it for the 6 inside speakers and just let the sub run off the factory amp if you arent happy with it. try it and see.

Do the volume control buttons on the steering wheel still work with an aftermarket cd player?

PAC make interface adapters for certain radios. http://www.pac-audio.com/productSearch.aspx?Make=Honda&MakeId=12&Model=Element&ModelId=1244&Year=2008&YearId=19

So I'm having a little trouble.

Here's my setup & I'm curious why I can't get my factory sub to work.

Avic F90BT

- the HU has a blue wire (antenna) which connects to the factory harness and is spliced into the blue wire on the factory Honda antenna harness
- using my L&R RCA Outs to power Front & Rear Speakers.
- nothing in my Sub RCA Outs

I wired up the single red RCA to the Sub PreOuts and spliced in the connectors as drawn up but I get nothing.

I have played w/ every setting on the HU and the sub definitely says "ON" but I get no sound out of it at all!

Any ideas on what I can do differently? Please help! its the last of my install!

Thanks!

Steve

So I'm having a little trouble.

Here's my setup & I'm curious why I can't get my factory sub to work.

Avic F90BT

- the HU has a blue wire (antenna) which connects to the factory harness and is spliced into the blue wire on the factory Honda antenna harness
- using my L&R RCA Outs to power Front & Rear Speakers.
- nothing in my Sub RCA Outs

I wired up the single red RCA to the Sub PreOuts and spliced in the connectors as drawn up but I get nothing.

I have played w/ every setting on the HU and the sub definitely says "ON" but I get no sound out of it at all!

Any ideas on what I can do differently? Please help! its the last of my install!

Thanks!

Steve
First of all, it would be helpful if you filled in your profile so we know what year and model you have. When you say "nothing in my Sub RCA Outs" does that mean you hooked the RCA from the little black harness to something else? Are the other speakers working? Have you tried hooking the RCA that you spliced into the sub harness into one of the other channel outputs to see if you get a signal? Please be more specific...and a picture would be worth 1000 words ;-)

It gives me great pleasure to make Big Al's thread a sticky. Hopefully more will see it this way and the world will be a better place because of it :)

I would like to thank the academy...:D

what did or do you guys do to keep the aux working ?
Asking as i would like to keep mine if i change the radio.

the same thing that is done with the subwoofer plug but with the center pin of rca going to the left aux wire, one going to the right aux wire and both shields on the rca going to the aux s gnd wire.

the same thing that is done with the subwoofer plug but with the center pin of rca going to the left aux wire, one going to the right aux wire and both shields on the rca going to the aux s gnd wire.

so am i suppose to use the .....:
white=left and brown=right + ?
and
both grounds to green?

thanks

correct, and the new radio must have an input for the rcas to plug into for aux in.

correct, and the new radio must have an input for the rcas to plug into for aux in.

:-D:-)
thanks

Can't seem to find a thread on this...but can anyone tell me if it's better to bypass the factory amp? Or use the metra harness with the RCA plugs and actually use the factory amp?

I have a pioneer DEH-p7700 which has a 50WX4 amp, and has always sounded great when hooked up straight to speakers in other vehicles I've had. I just want the best output, without wasting money on two harnesses just to test both ways. Thanks in advance...

if you bypass the factory amp totally then you will lose the factory sub. you could rig it up so that the deck powered the other speakers and the sub was still powered by the factory amp, but that would involve cutting and things that i wouldnt do personally. use the 1725 harness and tap into the sub input and be done.

Okay cool, but what if I just run the speaker wires straight from the head unit to the interior speakers, and keep the sub wired like BigAl's "schematic" on the first page of this thread. That'll work right?

you could, but have you seen how the rear doors are wired from the factory? the front doors wouldnt be that big of a deal.

Yeah, I know it's quite a long trail of wiring, but somewhere on here I found a post that had a schematic of the speaker outputs from the actual amp under the passenger side dash. So that being said I could wire them right up to the wires running into the outputs from all the speakers. I am not too worried about giving it a shot, but I cannot find anyone on here who has done it with results, whether they are positive or negative.

the same thing that is done with the subwoofer plug but with the center pin of rca going to the left aux wire, one going to the right aux wire and both shields on the rca going to the aux s gnd wire.

Hi Yoda,

With respect to hooking up the OEM AUX Input to an aftermarket headunit, I have the following questions:

1. The wiring diagram you referenced shows that there are 5 wires in the AUX harness (Yellow, Blue, White, Brown, Green). You mentioned above to connect the center pin of the LEFT RCA to the LEFT AUX wire (white) and the RIGHT RCA center pin to the RIGHT AUX wire (brown) and finally the shields of both RCA's to the one AUX S Ground (green). Do both the Yellow and Blue wires on the harness get left alone? What's the difference between the "S Ground" and the "Ground"?

2. Unlike the connection for the sub harness, you actually to use both the LEFT and RIGHT RCA's...is that correct?

3. On the back of my headunit (Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD), I have a left and right "Audio In" that will accept the RCA's. Will my AUX input work if I plug the RCA's into these inputs or do I need a specific "AUX input" on the back of my headunit?

Thanks!

Hi Yoda,

With respect to hooking up the OEM AUX Input to an aftermarket headunit, I have the following questions:

1. The wiring diagram you referenced shows that there are 5 wires in the AUX harness (Yellow, Blue, White, Brown, Green). You mentioned above to connect the center pin of the LEFT RCA to the LEFT AUX wire (white) and the RIGHT RCA center pin to the RIGHT AUX wire (brown) and finally the shields of both RCA's to the one AUX S Ground (green). Do both the Yellow and Blue wires on the harness get left alone? YES
2. Unlike the connection for the sub harness, you actually to use both the LEFT and RIGHT RCA's...is that correct? YES

3. On the back of my headunit (Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD), I have a left and right "Audio In" that will accept the RCA's. Will my AUX input work if I plug the RCA's into these inputs YES
Thanks!

that is all

Thanks Yoda!

Any experience with installing a digital tv converter/antenna and a power inverter? I found a guy online who was able to do this setup and watch live tv on the same Pioneer HU that I bought.

Thoughts, advice, links?

Thanks Yoda!

Any experience with installing a digital tv converter/antenna and a power inverter? I found a guy online who was able to do this setup and watch live tv on the same Pioneer HU that I bought.

Thoughts, advice, links?

sorry, dont condone it, you could end up like this...;-)

http://www.seattlepi.com/dayart/20070929/450wreck_3_34084.63.jpg

Here in SoCal, it's tough to get above 15MPH with our congested freeway traffic. I'd probably be better off driving through the weeds on the side of the freeway :razz:

I guess I was more curious about whether or not it could be done, as there really isn't a practical application for my situation. Now if I was more of an avid camper...hmm.

Any experience with installing a digital tv converter/antenna and a power inverter? I found a guy online who was able to do this setup and watch live tv on the same Pioneer HU that I bought.

Thoughts, advice, links?

Here's a thread that I contributed to with info. about my install that might be of interest to you.:-)

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57552

Here's a thread that I contributed to with info. about my install that might be of interest to you.:-)

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57552

Just the thread I was looking for! I just sent you a PM Eww-an E and I was hoping you could walk me through your setup in more detail. More specifically, I'm wondering how you ended up powering the DTV Converter box.

I'm hoping to have all my items delivered by next week so I can install next weekend.

Thanks!:grin:

Just the thread I was looking for! I just sent you a PM Eww-an E and I was hoping you could walk me through your setup in more detail. More specifically, I'm wondering how you ended up powering the DTV Converter box.

I'm hoping to have all my items delivered by next week so I can install next weekend.

Thanks!:grin:

You're welcome,it's actually pretty easy to do.:-) I'll respond to your PM in a few minutes.

So I just finished my install of my Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD headunit and I have a question:

1. The antenna adapter that I received from Crutchfield has a blue wire on it as well as the adapter piece that fits into the OEM antenna wire. The radio on my new HU is working WITHOUT the blue wire hooked up; is it necessary to hook this wire up to say the blue wire coming out of the HU wiring harness? My AM channels seem much weaker than they did with the factory head unit and I'm wondering if it has something to do with me not hooking up this blue wire.

Thoughts?

is it necessary to hook this wire up to say the blue wire coming out of the hu wiring harness? yes

my am channels seem much weaker than they did with the factory head unit and i'm wondering if it has something to do with me not hooking up this blue wire.yes

I just installed a Kenwood x993 using the instructions on this site(actually eMass's directions), and realized that I basically bypassed the 22 watts per channel in the unit since I used an OEM PAC 2 with the levels turned down.

My question is should I have just bypassed the stock amp(except for the subwoofer) like one of the other write ups I've found, instead of what I've done? Or, more to the point, how much power does the stock amp have?

Thanks

I just installed a Kenwood x993 using the instructions on this site(actually eMass's directions), and realized that I basically bypassed the 22 watts per channel in the unit since I used an OEM PAC 2 with the levels turned down.

My question is should I have just bypassed the stock amp(except for the subwoofer) like one of the other write ups I've found, instead of what I've done? Or, more to the point, how much power does the stock amp have?

Thanks

It seems that model unit actually has front,rear and sub RCA outputs,so I'm not really sure why you chose to use the PAC 2:? The Metra 70-1725 harness would of made your install much easier.:-)

I just installed a Kenwood x993 using the instructions on this site(actually eMass's directions), and realized that I basically bypassed the 22 watts per channel in the unit since I used an OEM PAC 2 with the levels turned down.

My question is should I have just bypassed the stock amp(except for the subwoofer) like one of the other write ups I've found, instead of what I've done? Or, more to the point, how much power does the stock amp have?

Thanks

the "amplifier" in the element is basically an amp chip like a headunit has for the 6 regular speakers and an actual amp, but a small one, for the sub. 6 or half a dozen, no real difference in what you did or could have done.

I'm also looking at going with the Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD headunit but was wondering if anyone has tried a PAC interface as quoted below - assuming that the steering wheel buttons no longer work with an aftermarket headunit... which I don't see anyone specifically mention or complain about...

PAC make interface adapters for certain radios. http://www.pac-audio.com/productSearch.aspx?Make=Honda&MakeId=12&Model=Element&ModelId=1244&Year=2008&YearId=19

Do the volume control buttons on the steering wheel still work with an aftermarket cd player?

metra has a new interface out called the ASWC that will auto program to the element and 80 percent of the other vehicles out there that it will work with. i know cause i still have the prototype in mine for it and they just released it at CES. ;-) you could also use the PAC SWC-PS but it is a pain to program after the install. use the 70-1725 metra harness 40-hd10 antenna adaptor and the scosche ha-1702b kit and you have all you need.

Fantastic threads. Thanks.

I am looking at adding a head unit using the "double Y" as shown in the diagram. Can anyone comment on how happy they have been using this set up? My intended HU only has the two sets of RCA's, one set which is SUB switchable. Thanks.

I just installed a new deck via the Metra harness with the rca jacks. I used the above diagram. Everything works great, except I couldn't get the factory sub to work.

As a trial run, I took the subwoofer out of the enclosure and hooked up a spliced rca cable directly to it. The sub came alive, but no sound. I did this trial run before hacking into the sub harness. Thoughts?

Also, in the above diagram, there are only three wires coming from the sub harness. I'm going to assume the diagram is specific to an older sub because my sub has four wires. Two positive and two negative. Any thoughts or sugguestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Thank you!

I just installed a new deck via the Metra harness with the rca jacks. I used the above diagram. Everything works great, except I couldn't get the factory sub to work.

As a trial run, I took the subwoofer out of the enclosure and hooked up a spliced rca cable directly to it. The sub came alive, but no sound. I did this trial run before hacking into the sub harness. Thoughts?

Also, in the above diagram, there are only three wires coming from the sub harness. I'm going to assume the diagram is specific to an older sub because my sub has four wires. Two positive and two negative. Any thoughts or sugguestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Thank you!

the subwoofer itself is not amplified. it shares the amplifier with the other 4 speakers in the truck that resides in the passenger kickpanel. the rca splicing detailed should be taking place behind the radio.

the subwoofer itself is not amplified. it shares the amplifier with the other 4 speakers in the truck that resides in the passenger kickpanel. the rca splicing detailed should be taking place behind the radio.

That makes sense. OK, back to the drawing board. Thank you very much.

That makes sense. OK, back to the drawing board. Thank you very much.

Based on your response I guess you spliced in post amplifier? Please let us know how it works out. I'd like to do mine in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks!

Howdy. I've been searching the web the last couple of days to find out about how to swap out my Factory Head Unit for a new one, and this is a best thread I've seen. Between BigAl, Nismo, Yoda, and busboy I figure this is a good chance for me to learn something.

Here's the short of it: I have an '04 EX model with the factory head unit, speakers, and sub. I want to replace the HU with something like the Sony CDX-GT700HD or Kenwood MP345U, mainly because I want to have a Front USB port for music on a flash drive. I'm not looking to redo my whole care audio setup; I just want a new head unit, but I don't want to lose the functionality of the factory sub, and I don't have the budget or interest to replace it.

I'm considering ordering the HU from Crutchfield, so they'd provide the install kit and a harness, but seems like they won't provide the Metra 70-1725 I've seen mentioned here. They methods discussed on this thread seem somewhat straightforward, but it seems like it doesn't quite work out for everyone to get the factory sub working.

I'm not particularly car savvy, but I want to do this project myself. I replaced the factory head unit in my wife's '02 Focus a few years ago, but I didn't have to contend with a sub in that little POS. And I don't want to buy the new unit only to find out it won't work with my setup for some reason. BigAl's diagrams are awesome reference points, but I don't want to screw things up. :|

Sorry for being such a novice, but any advice would be welcomed.

Thanks fellas.

I think that for $10, it's worth the money for less hassle. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12492_Metra+70-1725.html

...especially since they have the same radios for $10-30 less http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23318_Sony+CDX-GT700HD.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22094_Kenwood+KDC-MP345U.html

I think that for $10, it's worth the money for less hassle. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12492_Metra+70-1725.html

...especially since they have the same radios for $10-30 less http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23318_Sony+CDX-GT700HD.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22094_Kenwood+KDC-MP345U.html

Wow. Yup. Done. Thanks, BigAl! :-) I didn't know about SonicElectronix.com, but I'll check them out now. And for $30 less than Crutchfield, I'll probably get the GT700HD. Also seems like they give the free wiring harness and mounting kit deal like Crutchfield, so that's a win.

So if I understand correctly (and that could be asking a lot), here's what I'm going to do:

1-Order the HU (probably the Sony) and the Metra 70-1725
2-Follow BigAl's original wiring diagram from back at the beginning of the thread and connect the Metra to the HU
3-Curse a little bit
4-Splice in an RCA plug onto the factory sub harness and connect that to the sub-out on the HU


Am I missing anything? Anything else I'll need to order or do? I'm expecting to use t-taps to connect the male RCA to the factory sub harness (I know other people aren't fans of them, but I've used them in other applications and am comfortable with them). What gauge should they be?

And roughly how long should I expect this install debacle to take?

Thanks again!

Wow. Yup. Done. Thanks, BigAl! :-) I didn't know about SonicElectronix.com, but I'll check them out now. And for $30 less than Crutchfield, I'll probably get the GT700HD. Also seems like they give the free wiring harness and mounting kit deal like Crutchfield, so that's a win.

So if I understand correctly (and that could be asking a lot), here's what I'm going to do:

1-Order the HU (probably the Sony) and the Metra 70-1725
2-Follow BigAl's original wiring diagram from back at the beginning of the thread and connect the Metra to the HU
3-Curse a little bit
4-Splice in an RCA plug onto the factory sub harness and connect that to the sub-out on the HU


Am I missing anything? Anything else I'll need to order or do? I'm expecting to use t-taps to connect the male RCA to the factory sub harness (I know other people aren't fans of them, but I've used them in other applications and am comfortable with them). What gauge should they be?

And roughly how long should I expect this install debacle to take?

Thanks again!
I think red t-taps would work fine.

Thanks. I'll get the red t-taps.

One more question: The I checked out the original post and wiring diagram again, and I noticed you mentioned needing an antenna adapter. Is that something like the Metra 40-HD10?

Then I assume I'd just connect the blue wire from the 40-HD10 to the blue off the back of the Head Unit, since the Metra Harness doesn't appear to have an antenna connection.

If that antenna adapter is correct, I'll put my order in before the end of the week.

Thanks.

Thanks. I'll get the red t-taps.

One more question: The I checked out the original post and wiring diagram again, and I noticed you mentioned needing an antenna adapter. Is that something like the Metra 40-HD10?

Then I assume I'd just connect the blue wire from the 40-HD10 to the blue off the back of the Head Unit, since the Metra Harness doesn't appear to have an antenna connection.

If that antenna adapter is correct, I'll put my order in before the end of the week.

Thanks.
The antenna adapter is only needed if you have the OEM satellite receiver. IIRC they didn't come out until 2006.

Hi,

I have a 2007 EX, I'm installing an AVIC-z120bt.

It looks like everything is working but the factory sub. I get speaker output etc, just no sub.

I spliced an RCA cable in according to the diagram and plugged it into the sub out of the AVIC.

I did get the 1721 when I ordered. Am I correct in assuming I need the 1725? I'm not sure where the blue wire some have talked about goes. I have a blue wire spliced in already that provides power to the amp. Is there a separate power circuit to the amp for the sub?

The only other difference I have is the blue wire from the antenna adapter is not hooked to anything currently. I'd assume that's a separate issue.

Edit: Nevermind, I can see now that I need the 1725, I'm not sure why I can't use the speaker wires and the sub but I ordered a 1725 to fix things.

Any thoughts?

The sub was probably working fine for you when you had it hooked up the way you did but you couldnt hear it. the 4 speaker inputs were being driven at a high level by the radio's internal amp, while you were feeding the level for the sub at a low/RCA level, when they both should be getting the same level of input. there is like a 6-10x difference in the level of output between the two.

this is all assuming that you correctly hooked up the rca as you said you did. ;-)


Hi,

I have a 2007 EX, I'm installing an AVIC-z120bt.

It looks like everything is working but the factory sub. I get speaker output etc, just no sub.

I spliced an RCA cable in according to the diagram and plugged it into the sub out of the AVIC.

I did get the 1721 when I ordered. Am I correct in assuming I need the 1725? I'm not sure where the blue wire some have talked about goes. I have a blue wire spliced in already that provides power to the amp. Is there a separate power circuit to the amp for the sub?

The only other difference I have is the blue wire from the antenna adapter is not hooked to anything currently. I'd assume that's a separate issue.

Edit: Nevermind, I can see now that I need the 1725, I'm not sure why I can't use the speaker wires and the sub but I ordered a 1725 to fix things.

Any thoughts?

The sub was probably working fine for you when you had it hooked up the way you did but you couldnt hear it. the 4 speaker inputs were being driven at a high level by the radio's internal amp, while you were feeding the level for the sub at a low/RCA level, when they both should be getting the same level of input. there is like a 6-10x difference in the level of output between the two.

this is all assuming that you correctly hooked up the rca as you said you did. ;-)

So I probably don't need the 1725 then. I just need to re-balance the 4 speaker inputs.

Is there another reason to use the 1725 other than convenience?

So I probably don't need the 1725 then. I just need to re-balance the 4 speaker inputs.

Is there another reason to use the 1725 other than convenience?

not sure what you are refering to by saying "re-balance" but you would need to use cut off male rca's attached to the 1721 instead of using the speaker outputs from the radio. that is what a 1725 is.

not sure what you are refering to by saying "re-balance" but you would need to use cut off male rca's attached to the 1721 instead of using the speaker outputs from the radio. that is what a 1725 is.

I was hoping maybe I could turn down the speakers in settings to bring them in line with the sub :)

The sound isn't bad with the setup I have now, but I'm pretty sure it could be better.

As cheap as the 1725 is I'll just order one and re-do everything and see if that helps. That sounds like the path of least resistance right now.

Thanks ;)

I was hoping maybe I could turn down the speakers in settings to bring them in line with the sub :)



you can...

by using the RCA outputs for front and rear also ;-)

Posted this tonight in the other audio thread. Got the official Honda Service Manual for the 2007-2009 Element and scanned the full audio schematics for the EX and SC stereos, Non-Navigation and Navigation Systems, with the external amplifier.

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=863445&postcount=49

Just an update: I finally was able to order a new head unit and the Metra 70-1725 harness this past weekend. Hoping to have it all by the end of the week. Thanks again for the heads up to SonicElectronix, BigAl. And for all the instructions. I'll post again one I finish hooking my new gear up.

Howdy! I got my new headunit on Friday, and hooked it up. Works perfectly, including my factory sub! Took about 15 minutes to solder up the Metra harness, and another 20 odd minutes actually installing the unit. I'm pleased with the result. I wound up ordering and installing a Sony CDX-GT740ui headunit, mainly because I liked the clear 4-line of text display, good price, and a nice tone.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Sweet! Of course...pics would be nice :grin:

Hey All,

Here are some pictures from my stereo install. My car is kinda beat up, but the install went really smoothly. The mounting kit from SonicElectronix has a great clean look, and the stereo (Sony CDX-GT740ui) has a great full text screen. Sound and tone is great for the price, and the USB drive functionality is easy to use. I kinda wish I had done this a couple years ago.

Now, was that so hard? :-D

Looks great!

looks good. Is the volume level any different over all in yours. I've heard people say that sub doesn't hit as hard as it did before. How many volts are your pre-outs. I'm going to assume that the higher the voltage the better but looking for opinions on Head Units. I like your install kit for the single din. Is it reversable? Could I install it upside down so the bin was on top instead of underneath?

Thanks

JoSh

Howdy Josh! Glad you like my setup.

Volume is pretty much the same. The new headunit has a bit more power than the stock unit had, but not a huge difference. I have to admit, I don't really blast music in my car, so maybe I'm not the best to gauge. But the sound is solid, the tone from the headunit is nicely customizable. And the sub seems to hit about as hard as it did before. Again, I was able to customize the EQ and the sub settings on the headunit, so I could dial it in to the tone/sound I wanted. I'm pleased with it. Again, I don't blast my music too much so YMMV.

The pre-outs are 4 volts, I believe. Not 100% on that.

I'm not sure if the install kit is reversible. I didn't even think about it, honestly. I'm just so used to having the stereo on top and the storage below, that's how I immediately set about installing it. I think the radio is somewhat supported by a couple tabs at the storage space, so reversing this one might not be possible. Maybe someone else will know better than I do.

Here's a link to the install kit I used:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3768_Scosche+HA1571B+-+HA1571.html


I hope this helps.

I found this thread to be very helpful. I installed a JVC KW-XR810 head unit, and I used a Metra wiring harness. I spliced in an RCA plug as listed in the diagram, but I do not get any sound from the factory subwoofer either (as some have found). I soldered the wires to the spliced wires in the sub harness...would that make a difference? I really would like the sub to work as there are many sound settings in the HU that I can dial in the sounds. Any help would be much appreciated! Again great thread!!!

For the subwoofer connection, splice the RCA's negative wire to the red with white stripe on the subwoofer harness. Then splice the center (positve) conductor to the red with blue stripe. The pink with black stripe does not get hooked up. Since the signal is mono, you don't have to hook up both channels to the radio output unless you just want to.

Splicing the wires could be done several ways...you could just strip back some of the insulation behind the connector, wrap the RCA's wires around the bare conductor, then solder and tape. Another option would to use t-taps which you can buy at most auto parts stores. T-taps clamp onto the wire and when squeezed with pliers, a small blade pierces the insulation to complete the connection. Another option (not recommended if still under warranty) is to simply clip the black connector off and splice the wires directly.

The Metra harness mentioned earlier makes life so much easier, however any aftermarket wiring harness will do. You will just have to put male RCA plugs on all of the input wires.

If your radio doesn't have RCA outputs, you will have to install a line-level converter on the radio's speaker outputs. This will convert the high-level speaker outputs to line-level to go to the Honda amp.

Do I have to wire RCA plugs to the Metra wiring harness? I used the wiring harness from the JVC HU box and then to the Metra harness to tap into the factory harness. If I want to use the factory sub do I have to wire all RCA to the back of the HU?

Do I have to wire RCA plugs to the Metra wiring harness? I used the wiring harness from the JVC HU box and then to the Metra harness to tap into the factory harness. If I want to use the factory sub do I have to wire all RCA to the back of the HU?

did you use a 70-1721 or a 70-1725 harness? if you used a 1721 then you need to rca's to the harness (+'s to the center conductors, -'s to the shields). if you hooked everything else up as instructed then the sube is probably working, just just cant hear it play as you are feeding a high level signal to the other speakers that is about 6-10 times higher than the one you are feeding the sub thru low level.

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to audio stuff, and just had a question after reading this thread, I see you guys talking about the 70-1721 and the 70-1725 harnesses and understand the differences for those, but I've also found a 70-1726 harness and was curious what the purpose of that would be and if I should still go with the 70-1725 harness.

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to audio stuff, and just had a question after reading this thread, I see you guys talking about the 70-1721 and the 70-1725 harnesses and understand the differences for those, but I've also found a 70-1726 harness and was curious what the purpose of that would be and if I should still go with the 70-1725 harness.

That harness is used if you're wanting to bypass the factory amplifier. So if that's what you're looking to actually do,that would be the harness for you. If not,just go with the Metra 1725 harness.

Here's a great price on a 1725 harness.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12492_Metra+70-1725.html

oh okay, thanks!

oh okay, thanks!
You're welcome.:-)

okay, more questions, sorry, I'm new to this, haha. So I'm looking at getting a Pioneer AVH-3200DVD unit which has a built in amp. So using this unit, would I still use the 1725 harness? Or can I bypass the factory amp using the 1726? or is the 1726 only for use with a completely separate amp?

the 70-1726 would require you to get an external sub amplifier along with using the new radio for the other stock speakers. the 70-1725 will integrate the 4 main input channels to the factory amp and the sub connection detailed earlier in this thread will get you subwoofer retention.

thank you much sir! Wont be doing the swap for a little while though, at the moment mostly just gathering my proper information, you guys have been really helpful thanks!

did you use a 70-1721 or a 70-1725 harness? if you used a 1721 then you need to rca's to the harness (+'s to the center conductors, -'s to the shields). if you hooked everything else up as instructed then the sube is probably working, just just cant hear it play as you are feeding a high level signal to the other speakers that is about 6-10 times higher than the one you are feeding the sub thru low level.

Took me a while to get my receipt and wrapper for the stuff I bought. I got a 1721 harness, but I wired straight to the HU harness versus using RCAs. I found a nice Polk Audio amp for a good price and picked it up, but I am not confident in wiring it in. I think I may try to rewire the 1721 with RCAs first to see if better sound with stock sub/amp. Otherwise I am traveling down the road to more equip and cash spent to complete the project.

I rewired this harness with RCA plugs off the Metra wiring hiring harness and plugged them into the speaker line outs as well as the RCA plug tied into the sub harness. I put everything back together and viola! It's all good! Sub works just fine and no distortion out of speakers. Head unit controls the sub woofer just fine!!! This diagram is really helpful:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3065

Check that out!

After rewiring my stereo with RCA plugs to speakers and sub...things sounded great. I went on a road trip with a friend who is a huge Meshuggah fan (Swedish Death Metal), and we tested the capabilities hardcore. Things still sounded good, but a little muddy. I was curious about what the speakers were in the doors. I was able to get the plastic grill off by hand, and I saw that the speakers were really cheap ones. I picked up some fairly inexpensive Pioneer speakers (6.5 inches) from Walmart of all places...$80 for all four. I installed them this morning...WOW! Sounds great. By following the diagram provided here on EOC putting in my JVC head was easy and sounds great with Pioneer speakers...I spent a total of $279.99 on JVC head unit. $359.99 for the whole deal is pretty damn good and fun project to do. Sounds great and I am proud to say I did it all myself (a novice at car stereos)!:-)

Thanks to BigAl for this thread as well as all the contributors. I completed my first stereo install this morning using the Yoda designed Metra 70-7863 and Sony MEX-BT5700U. This install also gave my first experience soldering.

The only thing I have left to do is install the Axxess ASWC. The instructions confused me a bit and I did not have time to try and figure it out this morning. I guess I'll reread the instructions a few more times maybe it'll sink in.

Thanks to BigAl for this thread as well as all the contributors. I completed my first stereo install this morning using the Yoda designed Metra 70-7863 and Sony MEX-BT5700U. This install also gave my first experience soldering.

The only thing I have left to do is install the Axxess ASWC. The instructions confused me a bit and I did not have time to try and figure it out this morning. I guess I'll reread the instructions a few more times maybe it'll sink in.

its pretty easy. all you need is the red, black, and white/green wires from the aswc. switched power to the red of the aswc, ground to the black wire on the aswc and the brown wire in the factory honda harness (pin 14), and the white/green wire on the aswc goes to green/red (pin 3) of the honda factory harness. done. cycle the key and watch the LED flashes. will auto program in about 15 seconds.

its pretty easy. all you need is the red, black, and white/green wires from the aswc. switched power to the red of the aswc, ground to the black wire on the aswc and the brown wire in the factory honda harness (pin 14), and the white/green wire on the aswc goes to green/red (pin 3) of the honda factory harness. done. cycle the key and watch the LED flashes. will auto program in about 15 seconds.
Thanks Yoda.

For the red and black, could I should be able to tap into the stereo wiring harness for those, correct?

For the brown wire, do I remove that from the connector? Do I somehow jump the wire?

Also, I take it t-taps would be acceptable to use?

Thanks Yoda.

For the red and black, could I should be able to tap into the stereo wiring harness for those, correct?

For the brown wire, do I remove that from the connector? Do I somehow jump the wire?

Also, I take it t-taps would be acceptable to use?

all the wires can be attached behind the radio. That is why it is so much better than the other ones by PAC where on some vehicles you have to get wires elsewhere in the car. That and the autoprogramming. Dont use t-taps for the connection of the aswc. multiplex communication like that done with the steering wheel control wire andother data wires, can experience some intermittent issues if not soldered and taped/heat shrunk. That is why it says that specifically in the instructions not to use t-taps. ;-)

this (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67403) thread shows the metra harness (70-7863) that fully integrates with the element and does what is described at the begining of this thread. some people are having issue finding their answer apparently, so here it is in a stickied thread...

Quick question - my new head unit (Clarion CX201) doesn't have a separate RCA out for the sub. Instead it looks like the rear RCAs are for rear/sub. I have the Metra 70-1725 harness, just wondering what to do next? Do I need a crossover for the rear/sub RCAs?

Many thanks!

Quick question - my new head unit (Clarion CX201) doesn't have a separate RCA out for the sub. Instead it looks like the rear RCAs are for rear/sub. I have the Metra 70-1725 harness, just wondering what to do next? Do I need a crossover for the rear/sub RCAs?

Many thanks!

How much did you spend on your new HU??
I ask because if its still in the box, I would take it back and get one that
works with the E. How much are you going to spend on a crossover?? You
could add the price of the crossover to what you paid for the Clarion, and
get a better HU. Remember, that if you dont get a crossover with a separate
volume control, you will not be able to adjust the sub volume.

You can use a crossover, but you have the wrong wiring harness. You need
the Metra 70-7863. It has all the wiring for all the amp channels. It is the
correct harness if you are using a HU with front, rear and sub out, or if you
are using a crossover.

I would trade it in for the CX501. It has front, rear, AND sub outs!!! Not that
much more money either.

Do you have the Metra 95-7863 to mount the new HU to the E??
Here is a thread with some really good info:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67403