I have a couple of pending electronic installs, specifically hardwiring a new Garmin GPS, a cb radio and a radar detector.

After rooting around under the dash and hood, I've noted a handful of unused and unmarked fuse slots at both the steering column-mounted fuse panel and inside the hood-mounted fuse panel.

Question is; can I take advantage of any of these open slots by using an Add-A-Circuit jumper? A quick tester probe indicated they are all "live" when the ignition is turned pass ACC.

Under the dash (steering column fuse panel)
-Open Slot # 5 (between a 10A fuse @ #4 and a 7.5A fuse @ #6) see first photo
-Open Slot #16 (between a 20A fuse @ #15 and a 15A fuse @ #16)
-Open Slot #21 (next to a 20A fuse @ #22)

Under the hood
-Open Slot # OP1 (appears to be a 40A)
-Open Slot # Op 2 (appears to be a 15A) -see second photo


Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome!

This thread (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51973&highlight=add-a-circuit) has some info, and a link to another thread ...

I wired my radar into one of the open spots under the dash a couple years ago, and have had no problems since. Just be sure to use a fuse size that's recommended for whatever device you're installing, not necessarily what was in there before (if anything) or what size fuses are around it. And make sure when the ignition is turned off, that specific circuit goes off, or you'll end up draining your battery.

Atom:

I just so happen to have a wire diagram book. Not sure OP #? The one you're pointing to is UHFRB Fuse #8 for Trailer Lighting, a 7.5A, if so equipped. It connects DIRECTLY to + battery. Use a fuse:cool: The UDFRB Fuse #5 and #16 are on UHFRB Fuse #14, a 40A. HOT all the time. Looks like a good candidate for add-ons. However, use add a fuse on Fuse 16 only. If you place a fuse in #16, there will be power at G5 on the UDFRB. Don't use Fuse #5. It powers an MCU circuit +B RR FOG. Not sure what that is. Don't use Fuse #21 either.
There are also threads discussing UDFRB open connectors "U" and "V". "U" is were the OEM fogs connect to. It is HOT all the time, and feeds off of that UHFRB Fuse #14 above. The "V" connector, until recently, went largely undiscovered and unknown. There is much discussion over on DIY mods, Real Intermittent Windshield Wipers. Sorry, no time for link.

Atom:

I just so happen to have a wire diagram book. Not sure OP #? The one you're pointing to is UHFRB Fuse #8 for Trailer Lighting, a 7.5A, if so equipped. It connects DIRECTLY to + battery. Use a fuse:cool: The UDFRB Fuse #5 and #16 are on UHFRB Fuse #14, a 40A. HOT all the time. Looks like a good candidate for add-ons. However, use add a fuse on Fuse 16 only. If you place a fuse in #16, there will be power at G5 on the UDFRB. Don't use Fuse #5. It powers an MCU circuit +B RR FOG. Not sure what that is. Don't use Fuse #21 either.
There are also threads discussing UDFRB open connectors "U" and "V". "U" is were the OEM fogs connect to. It is HOT all the time, and feeds off of that UHFRB Fuse #14 above. The "V" connector, until recently, went largely undiscovered and unknown. There is much discussion over on DIY mods, Real Intermittent Windshield Wipers. Sorry, no time for link.

What and where is G5 on the UDFRB?

http://www.skidmore.edu/%7Epdwyer/e/images/udfrb.gif

Say UP&ATOM, what 'add-a-circuit' are you using? I may be wrong, but I thought that the "Littlefuse A-A-C" had a maximum total load of 10A. It looks like you're using more than that.

Say UP&ATOM, what 'add-a-circuit' are you using? I may be wrong, but I thought that the "Littlefuse A-A-C" had a maximum total load of 10A. It looks like you're using more than that.

Not sure AYF - the existing add-a-circuit you see in the photo was there when I purchased the vehicle - it powers a 12 volt aux plug mounted in the dash to the right of the steering wheel. I've used it regularly to power everything from a GPS to a 2-Meter handheld ham radio.

Do you see a problem?

You're fine fuse #2 is a 15 amp fuse like you have in there.

Jamie - if you're coming up tomorrow, we'll sit down and take a look at the electrical and get your answers.

You're fine fuse #2 is a 15 amp fuse like you have in there.

Jamie - if you're coming up tomorrow, we'll sit down and take a look at the electrical and get your answers.

Menne thanks!

I've got to figure out a new slot to tap off of for my birthday present - a new 40 channel cb radio!

Yes. Pretty old school I know. :cool:

-Jamie

[QUOTE=bh241;709344]You're fine fuse #2 is a 15 amp fuse like you have in there.

Say bh241, I know that the fuse slot #2 is 15A, but I thought the rating for the A-A-C was 10A max., 5A each slot is what I've been interpreting that to mean. That's the reason I looked into the Access-A-Fuse option. I know that you're much more qualified than I am, so I would appreciate any insight into this matter.:confused:

Technically, you are correct the 'Add-A-Circuit' unit is rated 10 amp max. Realistically, he's not pulling that much through it. For what he's doing, he's fine.

Anyone needing to pull large amounts of current should be doing something else instead of the 'Add-A-Circuit'. The additional current typically cannot be supplied by the OEM wiring. Think about it, do you really think any automotive manufacturer is going to put higher ampacity wiring then what they have to have? We have to look at the OEM wire feeding the circuits before we know what we can safely add to a circuit. (Yes, I own up to it, I am not a big fan of the 'Add-A-Circuit' - but that doesn't mean it's not acceptable to use in some situations.)

Electrical stuff is fairly basic physics, but there's a good bit of common sense tossed in too. Yes, in this situation it's OK, but this same way is not the right way all the time.

Technically, you are correct the 'Add-A-Circuit' unit is rated 10 amp max. Realistically, he's not pulling that much through it. For what he's doing, he's fine.

Anyone needing to pull large amounts of current should be doing something else instead of the 'Add-A-Circuit'. The additional current typically cannot be supplied by the OEM wiring. Think about it, do you really think any automotive manufacturer is going to put higher ampacity wiring then what they have to have? We have to look at the OEM wire feeding the circuits before we know what we can safely add to a circuit. (Yes, I own up to it, I am not a big fan of the 'Add-A-Circuit' - but that doesn't mean it's not acceptable to use in some situations.)

Electrical stuff is fairly basic physics, but there's a good bit of common sense tossed in too. Yes, in this situation it's OK, but this same way is not the right way all the time.

Thanks for the clarification. For a moment I thought that I was "telling" others the wrong thing when I mentioned the 10A max. (Just thought I'd let them know for "safety" sake.)

Thanks to both of you for the info!

I'm going to tackle the cb radio install Monday - working on a new camping rig today, if it will just stop sleeting!

There's something inherently wrong about sleet at the beach...

Jamie