A shunt installs in line (series) with the load. The one I want to install is rated at 100 amps, so it can NOT include the current through the starter. Can I split the ground paths from the body and the engine? Another words, leave the engine ground on the battery negative post, but break out the body ground from the battery negative post and place the shunt there. Any body install an ammeter with the shunt on the negative side of the load?

Ground is ground, the world around !

I don't believe it's possible to isolate the ground that way. You can Isolate the component itself. I think there are far too many common points of ground in a uni-body design do allow you to do that. In theory it's possible, in practice in this car I think it's next to impossible.

In the past we thought that high dc voltage was required to have Capacitive coupling take place. We now know, that it takes place with voltages in the Milli volt range. ( thanks to computers. )

The parts in the structure that are not directly grounded to the frame, become capacitively coupled (http://www.glow-discharge.com/Index.html?/Power_Supply_2.html). Do to the proximity of the part to the grounded structure.

You can Isolate specific components easily. I am guessing this is for a stereo install.

I'm still not clear on why you want to SHUNT (http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia_term/0,2542,t=shunt&i=51303,00.asp) a ground.


Dom

Nope. Nope nope nope. Chassis-drivetrain ground bonds are everywhere.

OTOH, you can most certainly find higher-capacity shunts. Easiest non-industrial sources are the places selling parts for electric car conversions.

Ground is ground, the world around !

I don't believe it's possible to isolate the ground that way. You can Isolate the component itself. I think there are far too many common points of ground in a uni-body design do allow you to do that. In theory it's possible, in practice in this car I think it's next to impossible.

In the past we thought that high dc voltage was required to have Capacitive coupling take place. We now know, that it takes place with voltages in the Milli volt range. ( thanks to computers. )

The parts in the structure that are not directly grounded to the frame, become capacitively coupled (http://www.glow-discharge.com/Index.html?/Power_Supply_2.html). Do to the proximity of the part to the grounded structure.

You can Isolate specific components easily. I am guessing this is for a stereo install.

I'm still not clear on why you want to SHUNT (http://www.pcmag.com/encyclopedia_term/0,2542,t=shunt&i=51303,00.asp) a ground.


Dom

Dom, I want to install an ammeter. Both the shunt and the meter are rated to 100A. The starter draws more than 100A. The shunt has to be close to the negative side of the load. the meter will not work if the shunt is installed near the positive side of the load.

OK ,, Now I see. There are several methods that work well for that application. There was a good thread that you may find helpful on another forum. Let me see if I can find it.

Located Here! (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28092)

See if that helps you.

Dom

I think this is what you have to do Joe.
Remove the Engine to body ground, T4 to G2. This should isolate the eng/trans from the body. The starter current will take the path of least resistance through the battery - to transmission cable, and not any sensor wiring. Sorry, the diagram is not of an Element, but its fairly accurate.