Hey guys,

I'm looking to upgrade my sub with the Kicker 6.5" (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2068C65VT4/Kicker-CompVT-08CVT654.html?tp=111)

Can anybody give me any info on how your install went? I have an SC...here are the questions lingering in my mind:

Do I need to remove the console?
Will this particular sub seat well? AKA is it going to be a pain in the ass to install?
Will the grille cover it?
Do i need to splice connectors onto the old wires?
Will the factory head unit provide enough power?

Tell me as much as you can. (I have searched for posts similar and not really found the info I'm looking for, so if you are familiar with a post that can help me; by all means).

use the search tab, many posts on ppl who took out the center console and installed the SC or vise versa, there are diagrams there for taking it apart...

There are also many threads dealing with installing a sub, for starters if your using the stock headunit you will need to slice a some RCA cables onto the signal wire that runs to the stock amp so it will work with an aftermarket. New holes will be need to drilled on the enclosure and you are going to need to plug the port. My stock one can shake parts of the dash so at the very least you will need to deadmat it or something. Shops I have talked to basically told me that the stock enclosure would be extremely sub-par for a correctly powered aftermarket sub.

The factory amp will not provide enough power, apparently it gives you 40 watts max, if you are only going to do one thing it would be more effective to get more power to the stock amp.

The factory amp will not be anywhere enough power for the Kicker 6.5. You will need to get a seperate amplifier for it as well as reinforcing the factory box with fiberglass to make it not flex/rattle very badly. Although the grille may clear once you are putting a decent amount of power to it, which should be the goal to get more volume out of it by replacing it, you will probably have a clearance issue upon normal excursion (AKA every time the sube hits). If it is being replaced simply because it is blown you might want to get a less power hungry woofer to replace it with or you will end up having problems with the amplifer which also powers the other 6 factory speakers.

im looking into this as well

I have a jl 6.5 in mine. The factory box is actually pretty rugged if you take it apart and epoxy the two halves together. I don't see the need to do any fiberglass work. I also don't have any clearance issues, even when cranked. It's got 150 watts rms behind it and the cone has never hit the grill.

Okay, so what could you recommend for a stock head unit?

are you replacing it because it is blown or because you want better sound? if you are replacing a blown one then you are going to have to go with something cheap liek the one below

http://cgi.ebay.com/PYRAMID-250W-6-5-Inch-Car-Audio-Sub-Subwoofer-Woofer_W0QQitemZ350203626526QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar _Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item5189c3441e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1234%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

If you are looking for better sound then by all means get the kicker or a JL, just know that you will HAVE to add a decent amp to power it.