Greetings all,

I'm planning to do some upgrades to the audio in my element. I thought I'd start with the speakers and have a couple questions. Part of what I'm trying to figure out is whether to spend the extra $150 to have a local car audio shop do the install or to do it myself.

When I check Crutchfield's site, they recommend 5.25" speakers but it looks like a lot of folks are using 6.5's instead. Do these tend to be a straight drop-in install or would I end up having to cut some metal to make them fit? I see the grilles just pop out. But do I have to pull the door panels to do the install?

I assume the mounting depth is pretty important, anyone know what I need to look for here?

I'm planning on using comps in the front (maybe Kicker K5s), where are the x-overs located? I understand that the amp is in the kick panel but haven't seen any references to the stock x-overs are found.

I've got the EX with the amp. Anyone know how that's "really" rated? I know there can be huge difference between the auto dealer's spec and what you'd get from an audio manufacturer. I'm asking because I'm a little concerned about the power available to drive the new speakers and I'm not planning on adding an amp. Opinions?

Lastly, any feelings about using dynamat on the doors? Would I see a dramatic improvement? Or would foam baffles be enough?

Your opinions and advice are appreciated!!

Steve :?

I hate to be a "moderator" here but - all of your questions with the exception of one have been covered in this subforum many, many times. Please do a search and read the FAQ, those will cover everything else.

As for your question regarding where are the x-overs are located - there are none. All of the x-over work is done at the amp.

Please understand that I'm absolutely not blowing your questions off - it's really true that a search and FAQ read will give you more information on all the other questions than you can possibly imagine. :)

[quote:5029ee91c4=" "]As for your question regarding where are the x-overs are located - there are none. All of the x-over work is done at the amp.[/quote:5029ee91c4]

eMass - that's true for the transition from sub to full-range, but I was under the impression that the tweeters in the a-columns had inline cross overs (or really, just high-pass filters), yes?

-brendan

[quote:a572220227=" "][quote:a572220227=" "]As for your question regarding where are the x-overs are located - there are none. All of the x-over work is done at the amp.[/quote:a572220227]

eMass - that's true for the transition from sub to full-range, but I was under the impression that the tweeters in the a-columns had inline cross overs (or really, just high-pass filters), yes?

-brendan[/quote:a572220227]

Chalk it up to my Alzheimers - yes, there are inline high pass filters for the tweeters - I think they are right at the tweeter location itself. Sorry for adding confusion.

EMass

Thanks for the tip on the search function. Somehow I'd missed that. I think I've got pretty much all of my questions answered now. Of course in all my reading last night another one popped up.

I've been planning on using Kicker speakers, probably the K6.2 components in front and the K625 in the rear. Then I came across a number of references to the CDT CL-61. I've heard great things about these but I notice that the mounting depth is 2 7/8". I'm thinking that's just a little too deep for the front doors. Am I right? Oh, and would that 18 watts RMS from the amp really be enough to drive the CDTs?

I saw that Silk was planning on picking up a pair way back in July. Anyone know how that turned out?

Thanks!

CDT also makes a "slim" version of that speaker. You should be able to find the exact model on thier website. The sensitivity of those speakers is high and they are fairly efficient so yes, 18 watts should be enough to drive them. Being the audio fiend that I am though I always recommend people get amp(s) if they can afford to and if they would appreciate the flexibility and quality sound that most bring to the table.

eMass,

Actually I was thinking of the CDT component rather than the co-ax. The co-ax has the slim-line version (which I was thinking of for the rear doors). Part of the appeal of the CL-61 is that a couple different sites have it for $150 rather than the normal $300+. The co-ax looks like a pretty sweet deal $42 through www.thezeb.com. The components all seem to have that 2 7/8" depth. I keep checking the CDT web site and those speakers just aren't getting any smaller.

Personally I'm certainly not opposed to the idea of an amp but I'm trying to do this at a price that won't make the wife wince. :-)

I think I'll go the kicker K6.2 components for the front at $99 and the K625 co-ax for the rear at $49.

Thanks for the advice.

Steve

Ah, I thought you were getting the coaxials. In that case 18 watts really isn't enought to drive those components be sure to get a real amp if you want to drive those. Also, the rear doors have tons of depth and there's no window to roll down so you shouldn't have to worry about putting slims back there unless you're just going after price.

I think my Focals up front have a 2 7/8" depth but if you're very concerned, pull a speaker (it's easy) and stick a tape measure in there to be sure. Roll the window down so you can see where it lands when fully open as well.

eMass,

Good point - when in doubt, measure. :-)

Oh, should I remove the in-line high-pass filters and then splice in the x-overs? Or will the hi-pass filters do the job?

Steve

Well, I just got a reply back from the guys at CDT saying their speakers are very efficient and will work fine with minimal power. They suggest using the CL-6 components and add a spacer to adjust for the mounting depth. Pretty tempting since I can get these from an authorized dealer, www.thezeb.com, for about $150.

Any hints on building spacers? Don't worry, I'll run a search, too. :-)

Steve