So I'm looking to redo my 13Av.2 Box. This will go behind the back right rear seat. The port would be made out of regular 6" pvc and then used a roundover bit to flare the port a little bit. After speaker and port displacement the box is almost *exactly* 2.0 ft3 @ 30hz. Any thoughts?
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/1.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/2.jpg

GOOGLE SKETCHUP! at least it looks like it. Anyway, I like the design, you sure you don't want a square-type port that would come off of 2 90* angles? You got a lot of room in that box to do that, it would also give you a little more interior air volume for the "non-port" housing. Just a thought. I used to build large speaker boxes.

Yep, good ole easy to use and free sketchup. Also just for clarification, the hole on the left would be the port, I didn't draw the whole port out, but it would be "L" shaped and flared at the other end as well.

Yep, good ole easy to use and free sketchup. Also just for clarification, the hole on the left would be the port, I didn't draw the whole port out, but it would be "L" shaped and flared at the other end as well.

Oh ok, well, then it sounds like you got it right. I'd do it, but draw up a couple more maybe and make sure that's what you want. Google sketchup is awesome, I use it to do a lot of quick projects, but I usually do the final drawing (if it's that important) on CAD.

Also, are you going with simplicity for the box's final exterior shape? Or do you mind making a few more angles? Cause I have some ideas.

Here's a view from the back:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/3.jpg
Here's another one I did.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/untitled1.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/untitled2.jpg

NEXT! This one is 2.5 ft3 @ 32hz. dual 4" aeroports. Should come right up to the top of the seat. But I'm going to have to make a mockup out of cardboard or something to insure that i have all the angles and everything correct.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/robot2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/robot1.jpg

I like the first one the best. See, to me, I like more complexity in a shape. It makes it feel like I truly built it. AS for the last two you made, they are cool yes, but too simple if you ask me. I Think something even more innovative would be to honeycomb the back as well and widen the box. Hold on, I'm downloading google-sketchup myself and I'm going to draw with you to better show you what I'm taking about.

I would make it wider, however I'm trying to keep the box a reasonable size... otherwise I would have followed through with putting in my 2 18's :D I've still got a couple ideas, and I'm sure I'll have a bunch of designs to chose from by the time I get around to actually making the next box. I'm definitely open to whatever ideas you throw out though. Another one I'm looking at is a bit shallower (about 14~15" deep) and 15" tall, but runs the whole width of the cargo area. I gotta stop fiddling around on here tonight though. I've got a big physio exam tomorrow and I've gotta do well to 'graduate' in the near future. Post what you come up with though. Looking forward to see what you come up with.

I like the second one personally, it looks compact and not over done, would be a clean and light wieght box, just my $.02.

Haha. Just remembered why I nixed the 2nd one... its 27 deep.... which is how deep the cargo area is. It'd be jackhammering into the tailgate. Its tricky to get a box that is 2-2.5 ft3, w/ 35+ in2 port area and have a silly little angle in the back so the seat can be at a comfortable angle.

I know it's rough, but here's one of my ideas using your fitment of shape. I like complexity, that's just me. hehe. I had fun drawing again though.

with all this talk and messing around with "CAD" drawing the thing up you could have built all these with a table saw and some MDF at this point...;-)

with all this talk and messing around with "CAD" drawing the thing up you could have built all these with a table saw and some MDF at this point...;-)

Table saw, psh... be a man. I cut MDF all the time with my bare hands.:cool:

Chalk line and jigsaw for me :D

Meh, I use the saw included in the leatherman multi-tool. All by eye no measuring. :cool:

Hey Peasley, here's an idear. Just use the driver's side rear window as an infinite baffle. It would cool to have the back of your sub sticking out of the car. ;-)

Meh, I use the saw included in the leatherman multi-tool. All by eye no measuring. :cool:

Hey Peasley, here's an idear. Just use the driver's side rear window as an infinite baffle. It would cool to have the back of your sub sticking out of the car. ;-)

Until it just blows out the glass and flies out the side of the car. I thought about that. It reminds me of that roof of boom car. Can't find a pic... damn.
It was just a car with two huge 15" subs magnets on the top of the vehicle like an infinite baffle and the cone face on the inside on the ceiling.

The leatherman saw is alright, and I've used it before to cut through solid steel, but find it much harder to cut through MDF with it, so I just use my bear hands and basically rip the piece in half to make a cut. It's always perfectly clean too.:cool:

I've got my name all spelled out in my user name and you still mispell it? Well, that's the life of a peaslee I guess. Haha.

Maybe I'll have the basket all rhino lined too :D I'd love to try out an infinite baffle, but don't think thats gonna happen in the E. I finally went and got a protractor, so I'm gonna see what the angle actually is and draft up a new box. As far as drafting and not cutting, I gotta mock it up somehow, and to me its quicker and more accurate in sketchup. Takes about 10-15 mins a box. Definitely takes a bit longer to make one, especially when adding angles and slot ports and bracing. Plus its free to draft it up, costs money and have to borrow a car to get the wood. Oh, and I gotta go to the parents house to use pop's table saw.

On the plus side I got the new headunit installed and setup. (Pioneer Premier fh-p800 bt) Just waiting on new amp and getting some rear fill speakers.... and a new sub box :)

I got a small table-saw and stuff to do work in my garage, only problem is when I need a jig, then I have to go to the shop to take care of that. It's better to draw a box than wait till its built to be disatisfied with the work. I want to make two boxes for my wheel wells to put 6X9's in to face forward.], and I'm going to use this sketchup to do it. Not as clean as CAD but it works for a short drawing. You know what they say, measure once, cut twice.:cool:

For a moment I thought it could be J. P. Easley (Easlee).

I think Sketch Up is great. You definitely have some skills using the program. I want to try and design my box with it but it's curvy.

For a moment I thought it could be J. P. Easley (Easlee).

I think Sketch Up is great. You definitely have some skills using the program. I want to try and design my box with it but it's curvy.

I'm all for the sketchup program, but designt it the old fassion way... with an mdf skeleton and some fleece :)

I'm all for the sketchup program, but designt it the old fassion way... with an mdf skeleton and some fleece :)
Needs more Kermit!:lol:

Next design. This runs the width of the cargo area. 2.5ft3 @ ~30hz.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/widebox1.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/widebox2.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/widebox3.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/widebox4.jpg

Looks nice!

Thanks. The more I'm looking at it the more I'm liking it. As far as simplicity goes, I'd love to just do a 6" aeroport, but thats a significant bit of extra $$$ as well as just trying to find an elbow and extension and whatnot. I just started to think about how much this joker is going to weight. 59lbs for the woofer and maybe another 70-90lbs in mdf... yeah, it'll be heavy.

On top of that I've got to figure out how exactly I'm going to do the new spare tire cover. It's going to have to be able to support that box on the 'seat side' and then on the 'tailgate side' I've got to come up with a way to put my amps in (JL 300/4 and eD niNe.1, and possibly a niNe.2 for rear fill). I'd like to do it how Yoda E SC did it here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=786786#post786786), but I'm pretty sure I won't be able to make all 3 amps fit without raising it up a little bit.

And any suggestions on a finish for all of this? One thought is Line-X/Rhino Liner, but I hear that's pretty pricey. Another is carpet, but I have no carpet, so it seems out of place. However carpet or the bedliner would be durable. Another thought is Vinyl, but it seems like that might get torn or scuffed pretty easy. Any thoughts?

On top of that I've got to figure out how exactly I'm going to do the new spare tire cover. It's going to have to be able to support that box on the 'seat side' and then on the 'tailgate side' I've got to come up with a way to put my amps in (JL 300/4 and eD niNe.1, and possibly a niNe.2 for rear fill). I'd like to do it how Yoda E SC did it here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=786786#post786786), but I'm pretty sure I won't be able to make all 3 amps fit without raising it up a little bit.

And any suggestions on a finish for all of this? One thought is Line-X/Rhino Liner, but I hear that's pretty pricey. Another is carpet, but I have no carpet, so it seems out of place. However carpet or the bedliner would be durable. Another thought is Vinyl, but it seems like that might get torn or scuffed pretty easy. Any thoughts?

if you plan on removing the spare you will have all types of room, probably enough for all 3 amps, but if not you will be hard pressed to fit them all if even possible. as far as finish, i did vinyl in my 04 that had a very similar finish to that of the rubber floor in the truck. it never ripped or tore. you will just want to make sure it is an industrial/heavy duty type vinyl that is avalible from most fabric/upolstry shops. the rhyno lining is great stuff and you may be able to talk them into doing it cheaper if you are willing to drop it off for a while (days or week) and they do it when they have another truck bed or something going on. just remember if you flush the amp into the board to account for the thickness of either the carpet, vinyl or rhyno type liner in your cut.

Thanks yoda. I was originally planning on dropping the spare and doing a fiberglass enclosure awhile back. I even did the initial mold and several layers. I finally decided that I'm just going to keep the spare for now. I do too much long distance traveling these days to do that. My plan was also do mount a full size spare (which i already have) on the roof, but i've steered away from that too. On my most recent build, I just build up the floor to accommodate the nine.1 and nine.2. I'll probably do something similar again, except suspend it from the top layer like you did, rather than mount it to the bottom layer and then put a cover over it. Just eyeballing it, I can get away with raising it an inch or two and pulling it off.

Has anyone actually gotten a quote on how much it would cost to have them bedline a box? I really haven't even heard a round about figure. I know it'll vary a bit from place to place and all.

Thanks yoda. I was originally planning on dropping the spare and doing a fiberglass enclosure awhile back. I even did the initial mold and several layers. I finally decided that I'm just going to keep the spare for now. I do too much long distance traveling these days to do that. My plan was also do mount a full size spare (which i already have) on the roof, but i've steered away from that too. On my most recent build, I just build up the floor to accommodate the nine.1 and nine.2. I'll probably do something similar again, except suspend it from the top layer like you did, rather than mount it to the bottom layer and then put a cover over it. Just eyeballing it, I can get away with raising it an inch or two and pulling it off.

not that i have to tell you because of seeing your work with sketchup but that will change some of the measurements on your box (IE top plate, back plate and back angle plate, though the angle will remain the same).

I gotcha. I'm still planning on keeping it 3/4" inch under the subwoofer, just raising it up at the tailgate end where the amps are and then sloping it back down flush with the box.

You can get the roll on bedliner from Schucks for about 20-30 bucks I think? I'm sure one can of that will work just fine :D

I have Three amps in my tire well :D ... Zapco 750.2, 350.2 and a Jl 300/4, so I know its possible. I raised my floor just a little bit because I still have the subwoofer in the Tire well.

Stoph: I've done the bedliner in a can before and wasn't paticularly impressed, but its still an option. I might just have to try a different brand or something. I also checked out your install when trying to come up with ideas of my own. Yours is very similar to what I was planning on doing if I had kept with my plan to fiberglass the woofer in the spare tire well. But the mold has been sitting my parents garage for about 2 years now...

I have never done the roll on stuff from the auto store. You might even be able to thin it down a bit and spray it? when I built my HT box I used the Rustoleum Hammered paint, and that turned out really good :D it was rolled on but it also self leveled so you couldn't really tell it was rolled on.

Last time I had a truck bed done it was about 200ish dollars? I can't remember it was a while ago. I wouldn't think a box would be that expensive tho.

I've been thinking about adding a external port to my box currently ... I have an addiction I think :(

I've been thinking about adding a external port to my box currently ... I have an addiction I think :(

And thats why I rarely, if ever, actually get to finishing a project completely. By the time I'm just about there I decide to change it all up.

And thats why I rarely, if ever, actually get to finishing a project completely. By the time I'm just about there I decide to change it all up.

pretty typical of a "car audio guy" (or girl...) :D

But isn't that what makes this hobby fun :D ...

Oh it definitely is. Although I'm sure my bank account can argue. It'd be a lot more fun if I had my own shop and a second car. Maybe after I graduate next year. I can get a job that actually pays some decent $$$.

Ok, I never built any of those boxes. But today I ordered parts for a 6" aeroport and this is what I'll hopefully be building within the next couple weeks.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/13Av2275ft330hzTopangleoutside.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/jpeaslee/13Av2275ft330hzTopanglexray.jpg

Is that 2 ports, or one port with a bend? If it's modelled to size, I would be afraid the end is too close to the front wall.

Its one port with a bend. I actually shortened the port a little bit, so it will be fine. The other thing I'd like to do is mount my amps either flush in the floor (without raising it... dunno if thats possible) or put them in the right rear cargo pocket area. There are a couple of members that have done that with amps or subs, but none have build pics. Is anyone here have some by chance? I'd like to have a little bit better idea before I go slicing and dicing.

Why vented? That woofer is a beast! I'm sure it will give you more than enough oomph in a simple sealed box. I prefer the sound of a sealed box too, especially in a car. If you really just want boom boom then horn load the damn thing.

Vented because its about the same sound quality vented, just with a little extra umph (I've tried both with this driver), and there's just not a whole lot in music below 28-30hz.

A horn would be awesome, just takes up way too much space and would be even bigger and heavier. With this, I'll still have a decent amount of cargo room and when needed I can still take it out by myself.