Does the Honda touch up paint contain rust inbitior to prevent the metal underneath and previously exposed from further rusting?

i wouldnt think so. as touchup paint is just a temporary fix.

rust inhibitors would normally go on before or be in the primer.

how bad are the scratches/gouges/chips? do they go to bare shiny metal?

if it is a pre existing rusty surface i would at min use petroleum jelly or somthing like this http://www.corroseal.com/

and use touchup paint over it

if its bad enough rust. it wont go away. the area would need to be ground to bare metal about an inch around and treated otherwise it can and will bubble the new paint in a year or so

i wish you luck

saw bare metal but no rust in it... (guess its fresh)...washed and touched up.... guess time will tell if it starts rusting

. . .
how bad are the scratches/gouges/chips? do they go to bare shiny metal?

if it is a pre existing rusty surface i would at min use petroleum jelly or somthing like this http://www.corroseal.com/

and use touchup paint over it . . .

Touchup paint is ordinary lacquer at a consistency intended to fill new small chips and scratches in the clear and color coats. It is not designed to adhere to rust or bare metal. Touchup paint will never look as good as a completely painted panel, but it's no less durable than an aftermarket lacquer paint job if you take the time to prep the surface properly.

Prepping the surface involves removing any loose paint, degreasing and drying the primer if it's intact, removing and replacing it if it isn't, and feathering the edge of the area.

Petroleum jelly is an absolute no-no - it'll trap moisture, and the oil will prevent llacquer from adhering. Using rust converter is ok to neutralize tiny deeper pits that don't penetrate the panel in an area where the surrounding surface is flush and sanded to the bare metal. If used this way the surrounding area should be sanded back to bare metal afterward.

It's ok on a bridge or ships hull, but on an auto body rust converter isn't a substitute for automotive primer.

all my methods were to facilitate removal of rust if present.

it wasnt to replace primer or leave on the surface. after rust removal(jelly) and converting the rest. the surface would still require some surface prep. cleaning,priming etc

for chips etc i use my airbrush. and depending on the color. touchup paint is either good or bad. s2000 yellow is very bad in a single stage touchup

but this is me i have 3 airbrushes a full size primer gun full size color gun and a small and large clear gun.

but if its a good match for touchup paint. i spray it with the airbrush and clear over a larger area. and polish to match

otherwise i completely strip the panel to bare metal. tin the pits and imperfections. prime,sand,prime,sand,3 color coats,color sand,5-7 wet coats of clear, cut and buff

regardless of quality of products used. the quality in a paint repair is all in the prep and how clean the piece and area is. and take your time to perfect it.