Possible to bridge a 2 channel amp to 2 subs instead of 1? I know that bridging is basically combining the power of both channel into 1 (twice as strong). Would that also make the 2 subs that I would power twice as strong compared to a regular hookup to the 2 channel?

You can do that, but it is important to make sure that you're not overloading the amp. What is the voice coil configuration of your subs and what amp is it?

as already stated you need to provide more info about the subs and amp. the impedence the amplifier sees halfs when you bridge it. if an amp is bridged at 4 ohms, it is the equivilant of running both channels at 2 ohm individually. all amps that are bridgeable you will notice their bridged impedence is double the individual channel impedence. you can get creative with wiring sometimes to meet the ohm loads but again it all depends on the equipment being used.

Amp:
Jenson 300 Watts Peak Peak 2-Channel Amplifier
MOSFET Power Supply, Bi-polar Output Transistors
2 ohm Stable (Stereo Operation), Tri-Mode Operation
Variable Low Pass Crossover (40-240Hz), 12 dB/Octave Crossover Slope, 6dB Fixed Bass Boost @ 45Hz, High Level Inputs
Bridgeable Operation, Variable High Pass Crossover (40-240Hz)Input Level Control(s), Pass Through RCA Outputs
Extruded Aluminum Heatsink, Top Mounted Controls
Thermal/Short Circuit Protection, Power LED Indicator
Protect LED Indicator, Illuminated JENSEN Logo

Output Specifications:
Number of Channels:2
Peak Power Per Channel @ 4 ohm:150 Watts
RMS Power Per Channel @ 4 ohm:75 Watts
Peak Power Per Channel @ 2 ohm:200 Watts
RMS Power Per Channel @ 2 ohm:100 Watts
Peak Power Bridged @ 4 ohm:400 Watts
RMS Power Bridged @ 4 ohm:200 Watts


Speakers:
Pyramid WX120X 12-Inch High Power White Injected P.P. Cone Woofer
White Injected Polypropylene ConeSpecially Treated Black Rubber Edge Suspension Vented Motor Structure1.5-Inch High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil Heavy Duty Magnet Structure Bumped Yoke Plate for Extended Excursion Impedance: 4 Ohm 300 Watts RMS/600 Watts Peak Overall Diameter: 12.01-Inch SPL @ 1W/1M: 87.5 DB 80 Oz. Magnet Structure Mounting Depth: 4.84-Inch

even without resistance specs on the subs im gonna go ahead and say no. you should wire them up to each channel and go with it or get a mono ap that you can use for them and possibly get better subs later

http://reviews.cnet.com/car-audio/pyramid-wx120x-car-subwoofer/4505-3425_7-32067779.html

so they are 4 ohm, and you cant bridge the amp and wire the speakers in parallel to it. and if you bridge it and wire the subs in series it will yeild the same power and results as wiring them to each channel unbridged.

Well I got my 2 subs new free from a friend so I don't think I want to buy better subs. Couldn't I just replace the Jenson 300watt with a 600 watt and bridge it?

if you actually read the posts, you would know that watts arent whats important in this case. the jensen says its 2 ohm stable (and a dont really believe that but thats another discussion). 2 4 ohm subs wired together presents a 2 ohm load. Bridging an amp cuts the impedence in half yielding a 1 ohm load which will work until the amp overheats and dies a quick death.

Buy a better amp, or just buy better subs or both.

There is a reason why Yoda is Yoda... he is very wise and speaks the truth. Listen to him.

listen you should. ;-)

All this bridging talk takes me back to 1992. I had a Rockford DSM 60 bridged to a half a ohm, I swear that thing could push 4 15"s back then!

Well I sold the amp on ebay, what type of spec should I get for my new amp if I wanted to bridge it or would bridging be not worth it and I should just wire it up regularly?

what are your overall system goals? You do know that those are $20 each subs new right? I would rather have a decent single subwoofer run of a decent single channel amp. Im running a single 10" apline s series off of a mono alpine amp. If I want to add another sub, itll handle it but its enough for me.
Back when I was younger, I had much bigger systems. one or two quality subs with power to match the subs appropriately. a single JL, orion, etc and a quality amp can really pound.

running really low impedences (ie bridged with 2 subs on it) is really only a benefit for cost (usually ends up blowing up the cheap amp) size (reasonable decision) or to get into a lower competition power rating.

One good option might be to get 2 dual voice coil subs, run them off a stereo amp and put 2 of the voice coils on each channel... or get a mono amp and 1 sub now and add another 4 ohm sub later if you still need it.

You know what you're right, cheap sub with cheap amp=****ty system. I'm just going to get a better name brand amp and single sub. But I do want it to bump hard. Should I get a higher watt amp or bridge a 2 channel to the single sub?

Generally I prefer a monoblock amp for my subs, but theres nothing wrong with a stereo/bridged amp in the correct application. Check out this (http://www.crutchfield.com/Learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_faq.html) link. It might answer some of your questions and give you a better overall understanding of what's going on.

I'm not much of a car audio guy... However, while in college I had a fair amount of experience with pro concert audio...

Having given the disclaimer there, here's my $.02...

You need to pick your speaker first. If you try to power with an under powered amp, you'll blow the speaker and probably the amp. You don't want to waste money on an amp that is over powered b/c you'll have wasted money and probably blow the speaker that one day you want to crank it up extra loud.

Having said all of that, I'll let the pro car audio guys explain watts rms vs peak and how to pick an amp that would properly match your speaker. I'm thinking it's about the same rule of thumb I'd use with pro audio but, these are two completely different areas with completely different goals.

a simple equation is this. remember, simple, not always exact, but pretty accurate in most realistic cases.

the amount of money you are going to spend on a quality subwoofer is going to be about half of what you spend on the amplifier to power it correctly. Example below. using kicker's sub to amp guide the ix5001 to L7 12

http://www.kicker.com/content/Sub_Amp_Guide

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11346_Kicker+Solo-Baric+L7+08S12L74.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21904_Kicker+IX500.1+-10IX500.1-.html

the equation we tell people plan on spending around a dollar a watt for amps. this is the true power (RMS) and with the internet and ebay you might do a little better, but beware of 1000 watt amps that can be had for 12 cents a watt. ;-)