So it's all coming together now. I originally wanted a professional install but after working on the car through the year I've decided to do it myself.

Stealthbox vinyl
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/spicytripe/6327b29d.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/spicytripe/814cea3f.jpg

Arc mini 4 channel
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/spicytripe/2bc51403.jpg

I got this stuff for the ground and installation of the stealthbox. It's a flexible piece of metal. Not exactly sure how I'm going to do it. I'm hoping the ring terminals I got will do the job for ground cables.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/spicytripe/833560d7.jpg

Already have Polk db651s in the front. Don't have the money for components so I will stick with those for now. I'm assuming if I power the polks then I will lose the stock tweeters correct?

So it will be 250 bridged to stealthbox and the other two channels for the polks up front. Eclipse deck.

I bought some industrial strength Velcro for the amp under the drivers seat. Bad idea? The amp doesn't weigh much.

I guess this is my first install thread so any insight will be greatly appreciated. I have already read/bookmarked a ton of threads on here. I feel somewhat prepared. But there are still some uncertainties.

For example for the battery ground, I'm wanting ground to the same place as the factory chassis ground.

The amp ground I'm going to follow a Jl install thread on here where someone used the emergency brake handle bolt. Not sure if I should use the distro block though. The amp kit is suppose to be a dual amp kit but comes with two distro blocks that are two 4awg in and 4 8awg out.

Ok this is getting to be a long post so again any comments ideas will be great as I'm now finally starting to plan all this out.

I really like the wrapped stealthbox. I get tired of vaccuming the carpet on my stealthbox.

Well I failed today. Tried to install the stealthbox as a test fit and couldn't do it... Without the sub in it! I just couldn't rig it. I used the two bolts on the bottom of the pillars of the stock sub. Where there's a spot in the middle where you are supposed to drill through according to jls instructions. I connected a metal strap to those two bolts, bent it upwards and had a bolt in the middle going upwards to thread into the bottom of the box. I couldn't get it thread completely in and there was a giant gap.
The fitment of the box seems a little off because even if I was to drill where Jl wants, the bottom bolt hole still doesn't line up right. There's a big gap at the drivers side L bracket as well.

I'm going to have to go back to the drawing board on this one because it'll be even more difficult to install this with the sub in it.

For now... Fail

I really like the wrapped stealthbox. I get tired of vaccuming the carpet on my stealthbox.


Overall it looks ok. I took it to an auto/marine upholstry shop. You can see bumps towards the bottom in the light. It's not smooth all around. For the price compared to a car audio place I can't complain. Its pretty smooth from the top down towards the bottom ridge.
I spent all night last night trying to install that sucker in. Just couldn't do it. Now the subs in there and it's so much heavier. Can't even imagine how difficult it'd be now.

Well I got it installed at a shop a local forum member here suggested. The stealthbox looks really nice. There's a slight gap on the drivers side but hardly noticeable. The thing pounds but like another member here says it misses the lower frequencies. The Polk db651s came to life with the arc powering it. Now I want some components.... Heh. I find that I have to crank the gain almost all the way up for the subs to match up with the fronts. The fronts are a little over half way up.
Now for the crappy part. It seems the arc has a bad cap in it because when the amp is cold it makes this high pitch buzzing sound. It's not coming out of the speakers nor does it fluctuate with acceleration. The buzzing goes away after the amp has warmed up. Talked to the arc tech and did some tests and he concluded it's a bad cap. 100 bucks to fix it. Luckily the guy who traded me is willing to pay for the repair.
Ahhhh finally got a taste of some nice sounds and now I have to send the amp in.

On another note, thinking about getting a JL audio CL-RLC for volume control of the sub. Looks like a neat piece and maybe it'll boost the sensitivity as well.
Maybe even change out the 10w3v2 (it's old) to a 10w6v2 in the spring. Gotta find that thread on here where someone was asking about it.

I'll post some pics of the box.

the CL-RLC is an active device, and even give a little "boost" when turned up from what your rca's are getting now voltagewise. if you arent looking for the "boost" and more just a line level control look at the axxess AALC. it is much cheaper and may work for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Remote-Level-Controller/dp/B003FPD3IS

glad to see you found a good installer to install the stuff for you.