Since I planned to make my Ecamper as close as possible to a mini RV, I thought I'd start this thread to list how to outfit the Ecamper, with the limitations of payload, space, etc. I am using my E for dirt bike camping, so I've included tow information. I'll be adding pix along the way.

Basic Element Upgrades
Towing:
Hidden Hitch (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Honda/Element/2011/87506.html?vehicleid=2011203595) Tow Hitch
Honda OEM Trailer Harness
Raised Hitch adaptor (http://www.aluminumcarrier.com/images/hitch-riser-3.jpg)(lifts the mounting point about 4 inches up, perfect for my trailer. The rear lower gate on the E just clears this adaptor so I can leave it plugged in all the time, but not when I've got the trailer hooked up. One benefit is that you can stand on the adaptor when raising or lowering the Ecamper without having to put the tail gate down.

E exterior:
OEM Mud Flaps

E Interior
DIY Reflectix Privacy Screens (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61514&highlight=curtains)
H and A Front Window Sunshade
Honda OEM all weather mats front and rear
Honda OEM rear cargo tray
Wet Okole Charcoal and Black seat covers
Harbor Freight Trunk Organizer (http://www.harborfreight.com/trunk-organizer-65178.html)

Ecamper and Options
Ecamper basic install
Thule Rack Podium mounts
Matching paint Option
30 amp power socket option
I had Ursa install marine grade stainless steel U bolts (http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/U-Bolt-9x130mm-S-S.aspx?pid=116182#Description)into the top of the Ecamper carbon fiber platform at each of the corners, so I could tie on a tarp on either side of the side doors.

Storage
Thule Cargo box (an older larger one). It will hold the Cabela's mattress pad, a few sleeping bags, and/or camp chairs. Empty, no worries with it sitting atop the Ecamper, easy to lift. I would not raise the Ecamper with it full, however.

Trailer
Aluma 548. (http://www.alumaklm.com/single-axle-utilities/item/1-548-utility-trailer.html) The trailer is super lightweight (320 lbs) and incredibly well built, with 14" wheels. It will hold one very large street motorcycle, and 2-3 dirt bikes, and comes with sidewalls. I outfitted mine with a cargo box, and reinforced tie downs, and added a Condor Chock for hauling larger street bikes.

https://blufiles.storage.live.com/y1p2P87T1S6FVkfCnsQTaSHmdkTFdMNz0Fy_1ACWwIlCLkPp3n t6ulYSekpYbL9oKNaHktybVUaVQk/P1040084.jpg?psid=1

Awning/Cover
Rear Hatch: REI Alcove (http://www.rei.com/product/794290/rei-alcove-shelter)plus 2 sets of "wind walls (http://www.rei.com/product/761882/rei-alcove-windwalls)". It clears the Ecamper platform perfectly (thanks for the tip, Ursa) and stows away reasonably small. Creates a nice private rear tent/covered area without needing to hook it up to the E or leave the rear hatch open. Perfect for setting up the kitchen and eating area.

Side Doors: Kelty Car tarp (http://www.rei.com/product/808944/kelty-car-tarp), with an additional set of poles (http://www.rei.com/product/628047/kelty-adjustable-tarp-pole)for a 4 pole setup. These will tie into the Ubolts I installed on either side of the Ecamper, and will let us exit the E from the side without getting wet.

Sleeping

Lower Mattress: Cabela's deluxe camp mattress (http://www.cabelas.com/sleeping-pads-cabelas-deluxe-camp-bed-150-48-x-78-x-3-1.shtml?WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=shopping&WT.z_mc_id1=732419&rid=40&mr:referralID=fc4262e0-1d67-11e1-9aae-001b2166c62d), fits like it was made for the bottom of the E. I need the rear seats for the kids, so I can't install a platform, and I don't have good luck with air mattresses. I really like this, my wife and I can sleep very comfortably below.

Sleeping Bags: Rectangle bags seem to work better than mummy bags. I have an REI big agnes, but I prefer my Costo Coleman bags (except for their size).

Pillows: Thermarest compressible pillows (http://www.rei.com/product/719843/therm-a-rest-compressible-pillow). These are amazing and well worth their cost. I can't imagine using anything else, and they compress down perfectly for travel.

Camp Gear

Gander Mountain Deluxe Camp Kitchen (http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Gander_Mountain_Deluxe_Camp_Kitc hen&i=419430&r=view&aID=505S2&cID=GSHOP_419430): same as the Cabelas. Heavy and bulky, but it fits in my trailer fine.

Shower & Tent: Gander Mountain shower tent, plus a Zodi Extreme shower (http://www.zodi.com/Consumer/zodiextremeshower.html)system. This is for extended camp stays when we don't have access to shower facilities.

Picnic Table: Alps Mountaineering foldable table and benches. Lightweight and strong, and stores well for travel.

Stove: Coleman Dual Fuel, Jet Boil Java (for quick boiling and coffee)

Cookset: GSI Bugaboo (http://www.rei.com/product/784105/gsi-outdoors-bugaboo-camper-cookset)and related utensil (http://www.rei.com/product/815537/gsi-outdoors-nform-crossover-kitchen-kit)kit.

Water Storage: Thinking about a Sceptre 7 gallon system, with a battery powered pump, installed on the dirt bike trailer.

Fridge: I want an Engel, but for half the price, I can get a unit (http://www.compactappliance.com/FP430-Compact-EdgeStar-Portable-Refrigerator-Freezer/FP430,default,pd.html?cgid=Appliances-Freezers&mtcpromotion=cj)that is nearly the same (though of cheaper quality). It gets good marks on ExpeditionPortal.com

AC Power: Looking at a Honda EUi2000. It rains too much here to look at solar options to charge the battery for a fridge, laptop, etc.

Some pix of the setup. It will be a while until I can post pix of the full setup as winter is setting in:

Bottom of the E with the Cabelas mattress/pillows:
https://blufiles.storage.live.com/y1phcyIUJLmXcctJO6xvZUgeGMjbcKpQV4mcPcRDdJSTKFSTPg 50ALRGtwJMmfZl_dw5NBcMklPJq4/P1030738.jpg?psid=1

Driving near Morro Bay on the way home from Ursa Minor

http://candybutt.org/pix/rides/2011-11-20%20Hudson%20Morro%20Bay/5.jpg

Thanks for the roundup, Davehg.

What bike is that in the trailer?

Dan, its a Yamaha FJR1300. I normally tow dirt bikes.

Fantastic thread and great build, thanks for taking the time to share the info.
I did have a question regarding the sleeping pad, what is it on top of? I figu the back seats, but what else.

Thanks

Never mind the question, I'm guessing you are using it on top of the seats folded down.

That's right, the pad goes right on the seats. I thought it would be lumpy and uncomfortable but it works just great. There is a section (under the center cooler console) that is a bit less firm, but I usually sleep with my head at the rear so I don't notice it. I find this better than an air mattress, the only drawback is size. I can fit the Cabelas mattress in the Thule cargo box no problem, or in the rear (unless hauling kids).

great thread. As we outfit our Ecamper set up I'll share what we've done. Right now pretty stock, we just picked up the Ecamper in October & winter has arrived here in Minnesota, so we're backburnering the camping. We anticipate breaking hibernationin February.

Hifi Guy:

Curious about your screen name. Everyone I know that lives in Minnesota is almost always an audiophile, and I attribute that to the long cold winters, having to sit inside and await Spring. Most of them are vacuum tube guys too (possibly the heat given off warms the house?).


Went to Walmart today to get a decent size storage box for all the camp gear. I was hoping to find the Rubbermaid Action Packers (Walmart has the cheapest online price) but they didn't have them in the stores. I selected this super large green unit, (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Styleworks-PackHorse-50-Gallon-Wheeled-Tote/17481699)which had cool built in legs and wheels, but the handle broke off as I was wheeling it to the register. What a piece of junk!

I ended up buying a nice ABS plastic, super tough storage locker called a "Smart Bin" by Greene Horizons for $40. It looks rugged and swallowed all my camp cook gear really well! Plus it gets high marks on the various Expedition forums. Here's a nice review (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/mcb-reviews/71410-smart-bin-storage-bin.html). It fits perfectly in the back, and you could easily stack 2 on top of each other, and use them for seating. Lockable too.

Love your E. I'm pretty sure I see it or you on 405 at least once a week almost lol during my work commute on way home.

Wow! Thanks for the write up. We are leaving in a couple weeks from Big Bend for some major miles ahead (as always!!!). The E, I call "Sherpa" is new to us (Spirit and I). It has worked really well... My hack is heavy! The Featherlite is 700lbs, we are at about 1500lbs +/-...
I cook every day... Will read your notes in more detailed manner!
We have been with the hack and a tent full time for 5 years, I am keeping it all the same, but already noticing I want... more!!! Like a SunOven I use here at Base Camp!!!...
Thanks...

http://beemerchef.smugmug.com/photos/i-PRTQV2S/0/L/i-PRTQV2S-L.jpg

I splurged this Xmas and bought a fridge unit. I looked at Arb, Engel, and the cheap fridges discussed above, but found they have a higher current draw. The forum folks at Expedition Portal raved about the National Luna Weekender 50, (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=4sjtP95urc8) which has a 40L fridge and a 10L freezer in the same box, and draws a lot less current.

http://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/images/products/793.jpg

It runs on both 110 and 12volt, and has electronics that monitor the battery and shuts down if the battery reaches a set voltage, so no more dead batteries.

It's an easy solution if I camp at places with RV hookups or bring a generator, but still, the fridge will clearly require a second battery solution to run more than 24 hours. This means upgrading the Honda battery to an Optima, but also adding a second battery or using a Goal Zero Solar Extreme kit (a tough call in the PNW).

I may end up installing a second battery in the trailer, and using a National Luna dual battery kit, which alters the charge b/t the main and backup batteries. That way, I can do 2-3 day trips to more remote areas with no concerns. I like the solar options, but can't count on consistent sun here in the PNW.

I am a nut about saving weight and space in the E, given its low payload. I came across this cool set of collapsible silicone bowls/camp set (http://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/Camping-Gear/FRONT-RUNNER-OUTFITTERS-FLATPACK-KITCHENWARE-SET-p80.html), which fold flat for easy storage. It's a complete camp set, and costs about $65. Seems like a great addition to the chuck box, and will compliment my flat silicone coffee cups.

https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR2O_QBWdfs_LY6RNmG_aTNuPnI2fSdQ P4lM3pJsdB5GDak48_AXQ

https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcStB8En00VocyuiZjz08qPQCyCfEXtcF 0BfyfUrnCEdw9pX-MvR

Ah! Beautiful fridge... BTW, come to Overland Expo, Flagstaff May 18th and on. I will also be having presentations about "one-pan" cooking with the option of traveling without refrigeration. So much lasts so well without it. I have Friends that have the set up you have. Yes, they have added a second Optima and a switch. I use Goal Zero, very happy with it, have two Sherpa 120 as sometimes we are just on the hack and I carry one (with the folding panel of course). But it will not pull that fridge...
davehg, thanks for the link! Very nice.... just when I think I have seen it all... new comes up!
Be well... Ara and Spirit

Davehq - good choice, I did look at those. I went with the ARB and have been using a second battery to run it. I am thinking about the goal zero for the future as in CA that will do well to keep it charged.

Beemerchef, I will be going to the Overland Expo so will make sure to see your demo. Also you are joining us camping fools it looks like in Death Valley next month that will be great to meet you.

I have read about your adventures in various places on the web. My husband and myself are Beemer owners (the 2 wheeled kind) and have had several bikes over the years so lots to talk about.

DAVEHQ - good choice, I did look at those. I went with the ARB and have been using a second battery to run it. I am thinking about the goal zero for the future as in CA that will do well to keep it charged.

Beemerchief, I will be going to the Overland Expo so will make sure to see your demo. Also you are joining us camping fools it looks like in Death Valley this month that will be great to meet you.

I have read about your adventures in various places on the web. My husband and myself are Beemer owners (the 2 wheeled kind) and have had several bikes over the years so lots to talk about.


We are leaving in about a week for New Mexico and some snow camping. I would love to come to DV, it is really a matter of fuel $'s to be honest about it... It is our biggest expense always! So we will see how it goes... Otherwise will see you at OX in Flagstaff. It is a true fun event with a lot of interesting people from all over the World...
Be well... Ara and Spirit

I thought about doing this, but maybe flying down, since my vacation days are limited. My 10 yr old is totally into Overland stuff, so it would make a good trip if I can take him too. Would prefer to drive out, but that is a good 3 days each way.

I am now looking at doing a DIY solar kit. Maybe an 80 watt panel, mounted to the roof rack, with sliding braces to let me angle it towards the sun., or a brace to fit on my dirt bike trailer. Kits seem to be in the same range or less than a foldable power film panel. I am thinking I can do this for under $600 (not including battery). Stay tuned....

Mel, where did place the second battery in your E? And how did you rig it up for charging? I am eyeing installing in the trailer mainly for space and payload limits in the E.

Hifi Guy:

Curious about your screen name. Everyone I know that lives in Minnesota is almost always an audiophile, and I attribute that to the long cold winters, having to sit inside and await Spring. Most of them are vacuum tube guys too (possibly the heat given off warms the house?).


Hi Dave, sorry for the late reply to your post, I guess it's been a while since I lurked on the forum. Yes, there are many audiofools here in the frozen north. I was explaining to a young friend about tube electronics the other day..."tubes are a lifestyle." I like your advice on the storage unit, I'll investigate. We're planing a road trip to central Florida next month, with a detour on the return lag through Great Smokey NP then the bourbon country of Kentucky. I'll try to post photos.

I want to visit Kentucky's Bourbon counties one day! My fav's: Elmer Lee & Eagle's Rare 17!

The National Luna fridge solved one problem but introduced another: battery reserves. The E's battery is notoriously wimpy, and no doubt I'd need to bolster its reserves. Thanks to the die hard nerds at Expedition Portal, I was able to fashion a few solutions.

I purchased the Sears Diehard Platinum P4 (http://www.sears.com/diehard-automotive-battery-platinum-p-4-group-size-34-78dt/p-02850090000P?currentProductTitle=diehard-automotive-battery-platinum-p-4-group-size-34-78dt&partNumber=02850090000P&storeId=10153&isSEOCanonURL=true&PRODUCT_TITLE_BRAND=diehard-automotive-battery-platinum-p-4-group-size-34-78dt&catalogId=12605&catgroupId=02850090000P&pageInd=product&i_cntr=1325530198158)for the E.
http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/02850090000

It's a monster: 68 AH, 880 CCA, and 53 lbs. It's also too large to fit the stock battery tray. Rather than jury rig a battery mount (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67197)like some EOC members have, I want something more solid, so I've got a date with the local welder in 2 weeks. I'll have him fabricate a more solid mounting plate, but if this proves too much, I'll consider downsizing to the P5, which pops in easier without the need to fit a new mounting plate. Pix to come....

The E's battery might last 2 days powering the fridge, but I need something that will last for longer trips and let me hook up more gadgets, and as we all know, the E's bonnet has no room for a second battery. However, the trailer does. I can stash a battery in the trailer that will be the main one powering the fridge, lights, and other gadgets when we get to our campsite.

For that, I went nuts with a Group 31 Marine grade AGM Deep Cycle (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850131000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1) battery for the trailer.

http://s.shld.net/is/image/Sears/02850131000

This 70 lb bad boy has 100aH and 1150 CCA, and is specially made for deep cycling, meaning I can discharge it repeatedly without worrying about damage. The goal is to last 3-5 days off the grid if necessary.

To charge the trailer battery, I have 3 solutions. When stored, I have a marine grade 10amp charger connected to the wall. AGM batteries need something more powerful than your average 1 amp battery tender.

On the road, the trailer battery needs to charge from the E's alternator. I looked at several home brew solutions, but decided to bite down even harder and get the National Luna Portable Power pack (http://www.nationalluna.com/PPPack.htm). It's an integrated box with room for the Marine battery, and with battery charging and isolation electronics, and ports for various 12v appliances, including the fridge. Plus it's portable in case I wanted to transport to another rig (at 75 lbs, I won't be doing this much if ever).

http://www.nationalluna.com/images/BBox_thumb.jpg
http://www.nationalluna.com/images/PPP_panel.jpg

I'll need to run a heavy guage set of wires from the E's battery back to the trailer with quick disconnect (much like a trailer light harness). This will charge the trailer battery up as I drive to our destination, and will enable powering of laptops, lights, phone chargers, and other gadgets when we get to our campsite.

The last power solution is still in progress. When I'm at the campsite, I'd like to be able to keep the trailer battery topped off. I could add a generator, but they are noisy, heavy, and take up more space. I am investigating using a 120 watt solar panel mounted on the E's roof rack, with an adjustable mount, to charge the battery via sunlight during the day.

I'll post up install pix in the next few weeks as I get started. I need to find a watertight aluminum tool box to mount in the trailer, to house the NL Power Pack/battery, and ultimately the solar electronics.

One suggestion for Ursa Minor (and something you may want to request if you are including Ursa' power port upgrade):

Ask Jon and crew to use 12 gauge cable to the battery. It shouldn't add any significant expense. Jon uses 16 gauge when adding the optional 12v power port wired direct to battery, which should be fine for most typical uses such as aux lights, DVD, or similar. However, some accessories (e.g. 12v air compressors, compressor fridges, inverters) can draw higher current, beyond the capabilities of thinner gauge wires. If this is something you might add, then best to request the heavier wire.

That's the case with my NL fridge which also uses the smaller "Hella" connectors instead of typical cigarette style connector. While I can buy a Hella-to-cigarette adapter, due to the need to use higher gauge cable, I'll be adding another power port using the Hella power port connector direct to the front battery. Rather than add what would be the third power port, I"ll probably replace the stock rear Honda 12v connector.

I got the P4 battery installed successfully with no mods, and no need to weld up any mount. Here's the write up (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=945935&postcount=182). I would recommend a P5 for almost everyone else, since few will be needing this level of battery capacity, but if you aren't doing a dual battery system, and want the largest battery possible, the P4 is a winner, though fitment is certainly tight.

Here's a shot of the fridge in the Element. It's pretty large:

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pvfvd2ei2FVr6u8g4QalijJKsKii4vxlNs3DjL2laIUpAd3q gx5bX4tVXzjPphhK7OpT8AQCQdpSGQOKG9HyO1Q/P1040235.jpg

For comparison, here's how it stacks up to the cooler I was using.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pZMNSqbDOzf9o0UzN03ipH9vnsqJZSOSg3gKJYTdHZxSihbq uMGWqbRriOj7E3iLyOJTMbULitAanYUx9c6gaIA/P1040239.jpg

Inside shots of the fridge (note the freezer compartment on the right side). The baskets stack inside of the fridge and freezer portions, and the plastic top lid covers the freezer:

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pDx3tMazj4jSEnm7Bg7FPFPkTv4Pm9t0sL7zjlgAfm1tjkUx DLY_G1-Vq-0MtKJeFiOc2ivQz0OaqQ0EE13KSgQ/P1040229.jpg

There are a lot less expensive options referenced in the first post, if you decide you want a fridge. Be forewarned that all of the them will likely require you to upgrade your 12v power port, as well as your battery, so no matter which way to go, it's at least a $700+ min commitment.

Very nice... My own simplicity to avoid all this is to travel without refrigeration. It has worked well for over 5 years full time... Funny though! I am at some Friends here in Tucson eating Ice Cream every night!!!
Ara and Spirit

Ara, makes complete sense to simplify, as all these gadgets introduce their own level of complexity and effort, not to mention cost. I love the 1 pan cooking approach, and hope to see your demo at the Overland Expo if I can make it to AZ in May.

Challenge for me has been to make 2-4 day camps comfortable/convenient so that my s/o and kids find it enjoyable and make this a regular occurence, not a rare event. It's funny how just a few things can change one's perspective (hot shower, for one).

For my solo trips, I think I prefer simplicity as do you.

Ara, makes complete sense to simplify, as all these gadgets introduce their own level of complexity and effort, not to mention cost. I love the 1 pan cooking approach, and hope to see your demo at the Overland Expo if I can make it to AZ in May.

Challenge for me has been to make 2-4 day camps comfortable/convenient so that my s/o and kids find it enjoyable and make this a regular occurence, not a rare event. It's funny how just a few things can change one's perspective (hot shower, for one).

For my solo trips, I think I prefer simplicity as do you.

The demos are in Flagstaff this year... May 18th for 3 days. Should be a blast and please let me know when there.
I fully understand getting into the gadget to make others happy... I would have also! Spirit does not complain though...
Ara and Spirit

....I am now looking at doing a DIY solar kit. Maybe an 80 watt panel, mounted to the roof rack, with sliding braces to let me angle it towards the sun., or a brace to fit on my dirt bike trailer. Kits seem to be in the same range or less than a foldable power film panel. I am thinking I can do this for under $600 (not including battery). Stay tuned....

Mel, where did place the second battery in your E? And how did you rig it up for charging? I am eyeing installing in the trailer mainly for space and payload limits in the E.

It is separate from the car - I will have to take a picture of it for you after I get back from a upcoming Death Valley trip. It has a attachment so I can plug in my ARB refrigerator. Also as you will be at the overland expo I can show you.

Just purchased also 4 of the Goal Zero Boulder 30 panels and the Sherpa 350 so that is also going to be great to use. I will still use the other battery setup.

It is separate from the car - I will have to take a picture of it for you after I get back from a upcoming Death Valley trip. It has a attachment so I can plug in my ARB refrigerator. Also as you will be at the overland expo I can show you.

Just purchased also 4 of the Goal Zero Boulder 30 panels and the Sherpa 350 so that is also going to be great to use. I will still use the other battery setup.

That is all out! Should be sufficient.
I like their products. Since I do not need refrigeration the 27W folding and 2 x 120 Sherpa has really been great. Also getting a Net book besides the Phone (and the laptop used now only for Photos and videos!) that draws so little has been also a good move.
Be well... we might see you in DV. Leaving Tucson on Tuesday am...
Ara and Spirit

If that works out it will be more than awesome if you make it to DV. The 120 Sherpa is very nice as well. I may get that for trips where I do not want to bring the whole solar setup.

If that works out it will be more than awesome if you make it to DV. The 120 Sherpa is very nice as well. I may get that for trips where I do not want to bring the whole solar setup.

Thanks... I am sure there is room. Been there a few times. Ara and Spirit

So after months of questions, visits to the Expedition Portal forum, and talks with vendors, I finally settled on the install options. The National Luna Portable Power Pack, described above. came right after Xmas, and it took me a while to get all the pieces necessary for the install. Once wired up, the alternator will charge both the vehicle battery and the trailer battery while in transit. Once at the camp site, the trailer battery does all the work, and on the way home, it is recharged.

I left the wiring to a local hifi shop, since it was necessary to run heavy 6 gauge cables inside the E from the battery to the rear bumper. Plus, it gave me an excuse to finally install the old amp and speakers I had left over from my Mini Cooper (more on that install later) while they had the E's interior apart. Finally, I had them install a Hella plug to power the fridge while in transit, and they used 10 gauge wiring.

The first time, they ignored mine and National Luna's instructions to not ground the negative terminal to the car, and had to redo the whole thing. But the second time worked fine, and they fashioned a nice mount for the rear anderson, right on the trailer hitch. (An anderson connector is just a fancy plug for hi power connections).

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pQ48VbXUJhXYqXyMG5UZ03V7_TFnkwkSZ5P9TP62mbYO5ZB2 0x9s7DwAiR9t73OQ_kdhon4tt05_919RJC2qzLA/P1040370.jpg

Next, I used the cable from the National Luna kit to run through the trailer, terminating the front with a 120 amp Anderson to match the hitch, and running the rear 50 amp red anderson to plug into the PPP.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1prK3K6MP3beMvItdcZ-lBt-tvkQ4XI1i2oSDKs9KCgbW8sUFpy0uIc_YjUuci8rfAy-nnEVIQkqeZ5IC8Jn7TCw/P1040371.jpg

Now the challenge was where to locate the PPP. The PPP is not waterproof, and I live in a wet climate. The battery was quite heavy (70 lbs), making the nosebox of the trailer not a good option (too much tongue weight). I also didn't want a huge tool box, since the trailer itself is pretty small and I want to be able to fit 2-3 bikes inside, plus camp gear. After tons of online research, I found this aluminum dry box on Ebay that would fit the PPP and still have room for other goodies such as a Noco A10 amp charger and a solar controller. The Noco keeps the trailer battery topped off while in storage or if I have access to a 110 socket at a campsite.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pOu7YvCNcWeXM10GA7PbEwg9zxwBsiNukO0-xNckPCACTPor8FfWFjsq0h3QhXFWqJmCvJK5VAzbsftQP79Rz1 A/WP_000140.jpg

The box is just fine for my needs, light and watertight. First I installed the Noco charger, using a punch kit to make the insert for the Marinco outlet. Now I can just plug in an extension cord from the outside of the box.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pMMEsvUabC01Tiq9MPBNFj_NgY9nRvpHlf4cjm0aY7_d2ZgK iRHP1Au_yZXJ1HuY5IAd8A9nDCEVw8HgWezoQkQ/P1040372.jpg

But how to get the power cable into the dry box, and how to get the 12 volt and fridge cables out of the dry box and still maintain waterproofness? I settled on getting a hinged electrical access door I located at the local Platt's for $12. It required punching another 2 1/4" hole, and grinding out a section of the hinged door cover to let the power input cable exit without keeping the hinged door open during transit.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p_xMQUKXaf7H6uPEoNXdWPP9TBpgxNHuIkjyVwRwfNniP1Z0 8EMWfYUjSQQgxg7C5zgji1A7Uj6QW5EhNunxCdQ/P1040374.jpg

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pkvhqMy7dgc7611M3-TPI0BRbtOJD_iTZgA4LPSJOI3MPyzvh5wVQxlfUYZsgScgzaRT Qy6LGG52Z5LTl_wu6Rw/WP_000144.jpg

Here's the completed install with the PPP inside:

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pl8mXAFh9q77cnkPVoHpl4KFv8fL1Nvg2PPom97Fwab5hfKE _SenzM8NuxhmDRgmspNxceTLECYslj2mf6vwnWQ/P1040376.jpg

I had a 1M section of battery cable left over and I made an extension cable with 50 amp Andersons. You can see that with the cables connected, it is a nice and flush, and when I need to move the box, I can quickly disconnect the extension cable and push it into the box.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p_5McRfxTdvdxR_Yw1-6c0OwhuKDyAahsS2dpgda5xlotuYIYDq0J-9hiQ-wMxIM5iZzgYkp2xAJfcp0XAkyqYw/P1040377.jpg

Final shot of the box inside the trailer. It takes up very little space, and is bolted into the trailer for theft protection.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pj7vVmfC7TnHhUhOHK8hE29RctfyML3UjtVBEHx3XQPO3kiD xKbQAAT8PEpg0nyBJIIi9YlVWJA97kzxahzrNFw/P1040378.jpg

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pM7QUKN_P3-JooLwlK2ZWv_pS0qdowcbpx0a3XczNG5rcJtnI5SgG2JF7iOTo nvwtCnVTWY2kS3NVqCglDeTTFQ/WP_000143.jpg

Ok. Upgraded battery, and another extra battery for max. power advantage. Check.

Next project, coming up with a water and gas storage option for the trailer. Enough water to support a shower option, enough gas for several days of dirt bike fun. First test will be this weekend. Stay tuned for pix.

Hifi install write-up forthcoming....

Forgot to note. My dear sweet wife got me a great Valentine's day gift: GSI stainless steep camp wine glasses.

I think she finally gets me.

Finished the HiFi install. Write up here (http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72704).

I find it sort of odd to be rockin' out the Ecamper, and I did give up a bit of space in the rear with a sub. But I spend 90 minutes a day during the R/T commute and its the only time I really get to listen to music. I likes my music clean. Bonus was the back up camera which helps out when hitching the trailer and parking.

Recall my request that Ursa consider a small gear pocket for the top of the Ecamper? Well, I found just the thing at REI: schwag pockets (http://www.rei.com/product/681993/rei-schwag-pockets-pair)!

Only 10 bucks for two and they clip inside easy.

http://www.rei.com/media/1012946.jpg

This weekend I tackled my biggest gripe with the Ecamper: road noise. Installing the Ecamper made a noticeable difference in reducing road noise, so I decided to soundproof using Raamat sound deading products (http://www.raamaudio.com/), after doing lots of online research.

There was a group buy here a few years back, so Rick (the owner) has lots of experience with the E. He recommended 2 "units" of his BXT product and 6 yards of PS Ensolite.

Having completed the rear hatch, spare tire well, and rear doors, with the floor and front doors left to complete, I noticed a large improvement. Can't wait to finish the rest.