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Is VALVE adjustment really needed? or is it hype

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#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm asking because I'm scheduled for a valve adjustment tomorrow at the local Honda Dealership (BURNS HONDA) hear in Southern NJ for 199.00.

My 03 has 121,000 miles on it and runs well. Someone said that a valve adjustment will improve gas mileage is that true?
 
#34 ·
I was in to the dealer this week to have several things attended to, including valve adjustment. 2007 SC with 165,000 kms. Was charged $160 for the adjustment. Trying to determine where that amount came from. I was in the shop for 90 minutes in total. The shop rate is $95/hour. That means they charged me for 2 3/4 hours for the valve adjustment. Am I missing something here?

Ted
 
#36 ·
I was in to the dealer this week to have several things attended to, including valve adjustment. 2007 SC with 165,000 kms. Was charged $160 for the adjustment. Trying to determine where that amount came from. I was in the shop for 90 minutes in total. The shop rate is $95/hour. That means they charged me for 2 3/4 hours for the valve adjustment. Am I missing something here?

Ted

If the door rate is $95 and you paid $160 they charged you 1.7 hours labour.

Flat rate times are based off industry guides for how long a job should take. It doesn't matter if it takes ten minutes or 3 hours. If the book calls for the valve ajustment to be 1.7 hours that it is what the tech will expect to be paid.
 
#35 ·
They charge based on what the service time book tells them to charge. I just took mine in to do the tie rod ends and got charged $97 per side which is 1.75hrs labor per side and it only took them 10 minutes to do each one.
 
#40 ·
- oil change (labour $18.37)
- replaced air filter, pollen filter, inspect and adjust drive belt (labour $57.07)
- Honda multi-point inspection (no labour)

The maintenance minder was A24. The "4" indicates replace spark plugs and adjust valve clearance. I had the plugs replaced last year so I just authorized the valve adjustment.

Ted
 
#41 ·
Was quoted $127.50 for a valve adjustment on my E from a local reputable tuner shop. Was advised that I may need a new valve cover gasket as well. Is this necessary?
 
#42 · (Edited)
Well. Changing the gasket is the best way to do it. Rubber dries and could break during disassembly. Easier for them, safer for you. You "could" get away without change it but you risk that the engine starts leaking oil. Since you are already paying for the labor, it makes sense to do it.

I did not change mine. :shock: i did the adjustment on a sunday out of an impulse, so I had no gasket handy. I was very careful disassemblying and cleanning it. I look into the engine bay in regular basis and check for leaks. I think I got away with it, but if not, I have a way to look for it and do not intent to pay for labor if I have to do the job again just to change the gasket. It will be just another fun sunday.

If I was paying for the job, By all means, I would be puting a new gasket. A leaky engine is a fire risk.

Btw. At $127, You are getting a decent deal.
 
#43 ·
Kaoss. . .I had the values on mine adjusted by a local Honda dealer about six months ago. Quoted price was $120 plus "parts" which was the gasket. I had them change it anyway. Total ened up at $140 with the gasket and taxes. You will notice a big difference in performance.
 
#47 ·
Made an appointment at a local Honda dealership for $125 labour + $18 for the valve cover gasket! Will let you guys know how it feels once the car is done.
 
#48 ·
Thanks ramblerdan. I read through it but did not see that the clearances would work for the 07 and onward engines. I did verify through Honda that they were the same.

Im going to do them tonight as well as the plugs and accessory drive belt. Thanks to all the knowledge that all have brought here.

Regards,

Tim
 
#49 ·
Hey all,
I'm going to be buying an element - private sale - about 500km from here. The owner says that he hasn't had the valve adjustment done - the vehicle has 225000km. Should I take the car to a garage there and have the clearance checked? I'd obviously have to pay for the service, but at that mileage would it be something that could have led to major problems at this point?

Cheers,
Rob
 
#51 ·
I think that with about 140,000 miles, a valve check would be due, but at the same time, I wouldn't worry too much about rushing to do it before making the 500km drive back home.

I would drive it home, and plan to do it yourself the next time you have a day available.

Although, if the car hasn't been checked out at all, it might be work taking it somewhere local to have it all checked (and maybe do the valve check while you're there) before driving all the way home.
 
#52 ·
Thanks guys,
I'm definitely going to get it done, but as mentioned, was planning to do it once back home. Just wasn't sure if it would be a deal breaker if it hadn't been done already. I was concerned there might be possible/probable valve damage.

I'm actually going to get the car safety checked and looked over while I'm there. I spoke to the shop on the phone and they were saying that they don't need adjustment unless they're noisy. I wasn't speaking to the tech himself, so I didn't really go into the whole tight exhaust valves don't noise thing, cause I didn't really want to argue on the phone.


Rob
 
#53 ·
Had 180,000 on 98 Honda CRV. Intermittent misfiring all cylinders. One mechanic replaced spark plugs, distributor cap. Still misfiring. Mechanic put on spark plug wires and new fuel filter. Total $420. Continued misfire. New mechanic said wrong plugs--new plugs $120. Still misfiring. Emission stuff checked. All fine. Still misfiring. Back to mechanic 2--said unusual but could need valve adjustment. Back to mechanic 1. Charged 1.5 hours to remove cover, adj 1 valve. Checked Internet on my own--5 min to figure out should have checked valve first for about $70 instead of $600 and 6 trips to 2 mechanics. Honda Technical Bulletin #03-038.
 
#62 ·
Absolutely get them done. My milage is consistently 27, always. Unless my valves are out of adjustment, then I get 23.
Also, cold starts are tough when valves are tight. Stalling, run rough, etc.
Tight valves can cause major engine problems.
200 bucks is cheap.!.
Sorry it took me 6 years to answer.
 
#63 ·
27 mpg. That's what I get going down a long, long hill. But someone always sticks twice as many uphills in my way.

Funny note on valve adjust cost. Edmund's has a service schedule for the Element based on mileage. At 110,000 miles they say you need to change oil, rotate tires, change spark plugs and adjust valves - total parts and labor is $101.00. Valve adjustment was $3.50. I'll be looking for the dealer who will do it for that amount when time for my valves need adjusting.
 
#64 · (Edited)
I did mine last weekend, 60K on the odo. All the exhaust were tight, .007 so set them to spec. The intakes were all on the loose side. Set those to spec. Does not run any different, maybe a a tad quieter.
Glad I checked them. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.. Good for another 60k. Was also able to re-use the gasket, but had one on hand just in case.

Was able to try the valve adjuster tool from Amazon, works great way easier than regular wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648...2&sr=8-1&keywords=honda+valve+adjustment+tool
 
#65 ·
My opinion in case anyone is considering it, it's trickier than you might think on a K series. I've done Honda valve adjustments starting with a B16 years ago, and the angle of the engine and the clearances make adjusting the exhaust side a real pain. Even with angled feelers, it's easy to think you're in straight, but you're not, so you think exhaust side is tighter than it is.

13 years, ~85k miles and the intake side was perfect, exhaust was a little on the tight side but nothing significant. Absolutely no MPG or HP gain.
 
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