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DIY: Projector Retrofitted HIDs

104K views 107 replies 44 participants last post by  TOAST3R 
#1 · (Edited)
Check out this thread for some background information. Disclaimer: Like any reasonable adult, in doing this mod you take full responsibility for your actions.

Materials needed:
  • OEM HID setup which consists of 2 HID projectors, 2 ballasts/igniters, 2 D2S bulbs
  • H4 wiring harness
  • JB-Weld
  • 8 3” bolts w/ nuts and washers
  • clear outdoor caulk/silicone
  • high temp spray paint, primer
  • bag of #8 washers (optional, to do a color mod)
  • metal stove burner trays (optional)
  • electrical tape
  • a small amount of any kind of paint
  • masking tape

Tools needed:
  • wrench/socket set with various sizes
  • screwdriver
  • drill with various bits
  • dremel tool with cutting wheel and various bits (cheap-o one here)
  • level
  • hacksaw
  • tape measure
  • mask, eye protection, gloves
  • metal snips (optional)


Procedure

Take off the bumper and remove the headlights
  • 3 bolts hold each headlight to the frame. Be sure to unplug the 2 bulb connectors as you remove the lights
  • remove the 2 bulbs (low beam and turn signal)
  • remove the black metal bar on top of the headlight (2 bolts on each)

Open up the headlights (see e-ride’s thread for pics and more detail)
  • preheat your oven to 200-250 degrees and place each headlight inside, one at a time, on a tray lined with a moist towel
  • put on some gloves and wait approximately 5 minutes for the adhesive to soften
  • take it out and use a flat-head screwdriver or other flat tool to pry open a corner
  • once you open enough to get some fingers in, use your fingers to pull the clear front lens apart from the rest of the housing

Remove the reflectors from the housing
  • using a 10mm wrench, turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise until it releases the reflector. The screw stays in place – it’s the reflector that is moved.

  • pull CAREFULLY on the two pivoting balls. It takes some force to release them, and I ended up breaking two of them. Remove the turn signal reflector the same way (it only has 2 pivoting balls)


Cut a hole in the back of the reflector that will accept the projector
  • take a piece of cardboard and cut a hole in it so that it fits the rear of the projector bowl. Cut it a bit bigger vertically to allow for some wiggle room, but be sure not to cut it too big on the corners, where you’ll need to drill some holes to attach the projector with nuts/bolts. If you cut too big of a hole, you’ll have nothing to bolt the projector to.

  • using this template, trace an outline on the reflector. Make sure it is somewhat centered (for aesthetic reasons more than anything)

  • cut the hole using the cutting wheel on your dremel. As you cut, absurd amounts of an unknown white dust will be released, so be sure to use some sort of mask, eye protection, and gloves. As you can see in the picture, I drilled a hole in each of the corners of my template to kind of guide me, as I found it was easier to cut from the back than inside the reflector. In hindsight, I should have just traced the template on the back of the reflector. After you finish cutting the hole, give it a little test fitting to make sure you didn’t cut it too big or too small.


Cut the back of the housing to gain access to bolts
  • there’s no real pretty way to do this, but basically just use a hacksaw or similar and cut an opening on the back of the black housing so you can gain access to adjust and glue the bolts later on. I didn’t do this until much later, but in hindsight it would have been helpful to have done it at this step. It should be about this big:
 
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#62 ·
Since you moved the projectors closer to the lens, are you concerned about heat causing distortion of the lens? The reason I ask is because someone had issues with blistering on the plastic portion of the projectors, I think it was Racerc2000.
 
#64 ·
yea that was the reflector inside the projector. supprisingly it was metal and the chrome was the issue?

the H1 version is smaller in diameter but longer. sofar the d2s version is holding up pretty well. you can tell the diff from curved to flat but all in all the output is pretty good for the price.

If down the road I redo my setup it will be a dual projector setup not a single biexenon

and full led blinkers and drl.

as for the heat and the lens. the polycarb lens can take much more heat then the light housing itself. so if it was that hot youde have a housing failure before the lens.

btw. do you have a light output test from the same projector in both normal position and closer to lens? i have literally 3-4 inches projector to lens if not more atm.
 
#66 · (Edited by Moderator)
Figured I'd pile on, just refitted my 2006 E with bi xenon projectors

Parts List
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=237
Bi-Xenon Morimoto Mini
-- 55w
-- 4300k
-- Gatling Gun Shroud
Post install, looks like I'll need an H4 error cancelling harness


I'd rate this medium easy.
Drop the front clip
Pull the lights
Partially dissemble the lights
Put them one at a time in the oven for 7 mins 265F
Pry them open (pull the clips up, use a chisel to work the pieces apart)
Install the projector and shroud
Fit the halves back, put in the over for 7 mins 265F
Push the clips back, let cool
Install and aim before putting the front clip back on
Front clip back on
Drive happy

My high and low beams work... but I always have the high beam indicator on. So I've ordered the extra harness to resolve that.
 

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#71 ·
No cutting required.

I did end up doing a CAN-BUS harness. Without it my high beam indicator in the dash was on all of the time. The ebay H4 error cancelling deal did not work.

I also have a CAI and removed the stock resonator and air piping. That leaves a ton of room on the driver's and battery side. I used that space to tuck and tidy up the wiring, relay, and driver's side ballast. Then followed a stock wiring run over to the passenger's side.
 
#74 ·
Thanks. It was a tedious job. Stayed up 12 hours straight to work on it. Got out from work Friday night at 8PM and retrofitting it til 530AM the next morning.

There's alot of learning curve to the E and this forum contains alot of information that I need.

I say, coming from Mini H1 and RX330 w/TSX-R lens projectors. The FX-R 3.0 is by far the best projectors I got, it has a clean and sharp cutoff, plus it gives out more colors that you don't get coming from the Mini H1 and RX330 with TSX-R lens straight out from the box.
 
#79 ·
I want to do this so bad but am very intimidated by it. Is Racer2k the only one to do this with an SC? I think I bounced around hidplanet a few years ago, might have to check back over there. Went through this whole thread and really like what everyone has done, good work!
 
#80 ·
This mod takes alot of time and patients, but anyone can do it. Its not a one day event, if you have an extra pair of headlamps you can take your time doing the retro.

Racer2k used the Mini Morimoto D2S projectors, which doesnt require cutting the housing to put the projectors on.

I used the Mini Morimoto projectors before on my previous vehicles and I don't have to do any cutting on the housing. Maybe you should ask Racer2k to see if cutting require on the SC housing.
 
#81 ·
some guys on hidplanet thought the SC projectors looked a lot like the TSX ones and were the same as the non-HD projector in another car (will have to dig around for which Acura/Honda model they referred to). Would love for it to be just a simple swap. I'd rather than get a spare set of lights mostly due to the cost but it might be an option to do that and then retrofit the 2nd set and sell them too.
 
#82 ·
Just thought I'd chime in with my project. I'm following Bright Light Tech's fabulous idea of making mdf brackets. Ive retro fitted a few different lights and hate dremeling the reflector buckets so just taking them out seems like a better option.

Things I already have:
FXR
Morimoto 35w ballasts
Morimoto 5k D2S bulbs
Possibly a useable wiring harness

Things I need:
Shroud
Possibly a wiring harness
Spare set of headlights for inspection purposes

Cant wait to start but I need some warmer weather
 
#86 ·
Well I already have a 9006 wiring harness from a previous install. I maybe be able to retool that....but Im thinking about just getting another one since I need the shrouds anyways..

I have some pics of the output from my fxr's in a different housing...Ill post in a bit
 
#87 ·
Going to be ordering my parts from TRS...here's what I'm getting:

BI-XENON: 'MOTOCONTROL 9003/H4/HB2
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=14027

PANAMERA Shrouds
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=4547

MORIMOTO XBALED ANGEL EYES 120mm
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=14906

9006 Male Plugs
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=255

I already have the FXR's, bulbs, and ballasts


Heres what it should look like when done:
 
#93 ·
Well the morimoto is good. I have the h1 version in my fit but the beam width and intensity go to the fxr. The fxr also displays more color. It does require fabrication though. If I had it to do over, I'd probably go with the d2s morimoto though.
 
#98 ·
This sounds like something I could easily do... Are there wiring instructions or should I look to that other retrofit forum? I have more research to do I know that much.

Another question about Halos- what diameter do people get/will look proper?

Assuming 70mm halo is a good size, would this all be ok? Thank you :
 

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#96 ·
Just got Retrofits From Ebay Very Pricy

Got some retrofits from EBay , Very Pricy, and very bad made halos fell of in the first month :x, seller didnt want to fix them:evil: , so i tried opening them, then i just found a friend that did his, and he fixed it, all am saying is if there is someone Here that makes them and chargers a fair labor to put them together will be awesome,, :-D
 

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