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Some pictures of 3rd gear pressure switch replacement

141K views 86 replies 28 participants last post by  mix123 
#1 ·
I had the flashin "D" light so I had it diagnosed by the dealer (autozone cant do trans diag apparently as it came up "no codes")and they said it's the 3rd gear pressure switch. They wanted $318 to replace it and do a fluid change so I'm doing it myself as the diff fluid is due too. Which of these two pictured items is it? I picked up the one in the second picture (with the blue connector) but I suspect it may be the one in the first pic. Anyone? TIA (oh, 2006 EX-P w/65k BTW)



 
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#2 · (Edited)
I can tell you for sure which one it ISN'T

Your first picture is a solenoid, NOT a pressure switch.

If I recall correctly, a "blue" connector was used for the 2nd clutch pressure switch, and the 3rd clutch pressure switch was black in color.

If you don't want to buy a service manual, an ETM would still come in very handy in such a situation. Then again, if a service department MIS-DIAGNOSES a fault and you authorize a repair, you can usually get some relief, but if you do the repair yourself and the diagnosis was wrong to begin with, you'll pretty much be S-O-O-L.
 
#5 ·
Umm..... No....

The "Second pic" is the 2nd clutch pressure switch underneath the engine wiring harness to the rear of the thermostat housing - the give-away is the transaxle lift bracket right next to the switch.

The correct picture is the one that Lizzurd, a Honda dealership professional, posted.

Thanks for playing, though. :rolleyes:
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I had the wrong switch (had the second gear one) It looks and costs ($42) the same as the 3rd gear but it is a different part no. Maybe it "switches" at a different PSI? Whatever the case the E is getting some love today; Diff fluid, Trans fluid, Mobile1 oil change and of course the switch.

Thanks again to the braintrust for the info!:)
 
#9 · (Edited)
I searched the archives and while the 3rd gear pressure switch has been mentioned and is often the culprit when the "D" light flashes, I saw no pictures of it so here a couple from when i changed it last weekend (sorry for crappy cell phone pics)

Here it is when the battery is removed. It is directly under tha battery:


Here is a closeup of it:


Here is the new one next to the old one with the crush washer. The new (green) one looked a little different. IDK why but I hope it is because it's been redesigned. Whatever the case it seems to have cured the flashing "D" light:


I hope this clears up the location of it. Otherwise, the installation is sraight forward. Toughest part is getting to it.

I gave the E some much needed love as well including tranny fluid change, diff fluid change, oil/filter change, and I replaced the air filter and cabin filters, put a bottle of techtron in it and filled it with super.

Next up is a serpentine belt, brake fluid flush (and brakes while i'm there) and power steering fluid change (I'll just suck the fuid from the reservior and replace it)
 
#11 ·
Thank you for posting the pics.:) Just had that sucker replaced, happily under a extended warranty. How many miles on your E? I'm at 92,600 when this became a problem.

(This Thread should be mergered with "Flashing D Thread".)
 
#14 ·
Mine started last week at about 65,XXX miles. Tried to have it diagnosed by Autozone to avoid the $100 Honda charges but they were unable to do it.

I wonder what the real reason is for the dipstick position thing. That's weird.

IDK how to merge a thread but I agree. Is it something anyone can do or do I need to be the one? Is it just a matter of adding a hotlink to the previous thread?
 
#15 ·
I have the same problem with my E, the "D" flashing, I didn't know this issue before, so I when to $$$Honda Dealer and they diagnose that it requires replacement of 3RD PRESSURE SWITCH $190 + Tax, + the diagnose that I already paid $116. I think to much money for a simple switch.

Anyway, I reset the battery and the "D" drive return to normal, my E is running well, but I still worry about it. It is bad for the transmission? I don't know if I am wrong doing that, but it looks like the problem was solve, to be honest I can not believe, that's why I need help to be sure about it.

I see here many E with the same issue; So it could be this switch a defective part? Or why it fail? I would like to make a complain to Honda Motors, somebody have previous experience with doing that? or it is better to forget it about and buy the part.

If I buy the switch, how can I to erase the code? It has to be done by Honda?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Oscar
 
#84 ·
If I buy the switch, how can I to erase the code? It has to be done by Honda?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Oscar
I just replaced mine today.
Same question. Has the code been stored that I need to wipe it? If so, how? I didn't see an answer yet.
 
#16 ·
i need help here also, I just brought my E to the dealer and they diagnosed as 3rd gear pressure switch, and want $425 to replace it (425 - 116 diagnostic=$309 to replace the switch!)

so can anyone tell me the part # of the 3rd gear switch.
 
#17 · (Edited)
i need help here also, I just brought my E to the dealer and they diagnosed as 3rd gear pressure switch, and want $425 to replace it (425 - 116 diagnostic=$309 to replace the switch!)

so can anyone tell me the part # of the 3rd gear switch.

The part number is 28600-RCL-004.

They are out to lunch on the labour. Unless the service advisor looked up the labour on the wrong part. Flat rate time is only .3 for the pressure switch.
 
#22 ·
I have the flashing D right now and my shop said that the code is the bad pressure switch, so I ordered the switch ($35 shipped) and it should be here in a couple days. I will try to take some photos to update this post when I install mine.
 
#25 ·
I was a victim of the pesky flashing D and since the original poster of this thread deleted the photos, I thought I’d replace them since I just changed out the 3rd gear pressure switch. As with all jobs, work at your own risk and you assume all responsibility for anything you do regardless of what I list here. This is how I accessed and changed the switch, there are other ways.

This is a simple job to do if you know what to look for and what to expect. When I was trying to find info about this job, I couldn’t find anything showing exactly where the switch was. This will clear it up. Some people prefer tackling the job from above but I chose to go through the wheel well. I’ve read posts where people removed the battery and battery tray but I’m fairly sure I could have done it by simply removing the battery.

I took my Element to my Honda dealer and had them check and confirm that the pressure switch was the culprit and it wasn’t a wiring problem. This cost me $55. They wanted $60 for the switch and another $6 for the new crush washer. I found it strange that they charged me ¾ of an hour to trouble shoot it but wanted to charge me another ¾ hour to replace the switch. They were already there and removed the wiring, I don’t understand. But, that’s why I rarely go to the dealer. Needless to say, I ordered my parts after doing a Google search for them.

Before you get started you’ll need the pressure switch. My Element is a 2004 4WD EX.
28610-RAY-003 Pressure Switch $34.93
90471-PW7-A00 Crush washer (dealer calls it a gasket) $1.87

Parts needed:
Car jack and lug wrench
Flat blade screwdriver
7/8” open end wrench
Rag

I raised the car up, put a jack stand under it and removed the driver side front wheel. You’ll clearly see the three plastic clips that hold the plastic shield on. There are two inside the wheel well and one under the front of the car. Slide a flat blade screwdriver under the little slot and carefully pry the plastic clip up. Eventually the clip will pop out. Once all three are removed, you can easily push the shield down and out of the way.

Here are a few pictures showing where the pressure switch is.




There's a small opening from the bottom on the front that allows a good look at the switch. Here's a peek at the old switch.


Once the shield is away, feel around the wiring harness and you should be able to feel the raised part that needs pushed in so it can be removed. Just one tab needs pressed in and I found the harness removed very easily. There’s plenty of room for a wrench or socket to swing. I used a 7/8” open end wrench because it’s the only thing I had that would fit. If you want to use a sillymeter socket or wrench, I think you’ll need something around 22. You’ll need a deep well socket.

Because this thing is not highly torque down, it was easy to break it loose and remove it. You’ll get a little tranny fluid running out but not much. I just jammed a rag in below the hole to soak it up as it leaked out. Not enough came out that I felt the need to check the fluid level. Thread the new one in and be careful you don’t cross thread it. Don’t forget to add the crush washer (like I did). Torque it down to about half a grunt. I have no idea what the torque recommendations are but… tight is tight and too tight is broke. Snap the wiring harness back on, replace the plastic shield, put the tire on and go for a test ride and check for leaks. No more flashing D….WOOHOO!

Here it is installed and wiring harness attached.


Here’s a side by side pic of the old and new pressure switch.
 
#29 ·
Well, it could either one of them, or both, or something else. You're best bet is to take the car to the dealer and have them do diagnostics. That's what I did, of course they attempted to talk me into having them install a new pressure switch. The dealer had all the info on the paperwork including the name of the needed part and the part number. Made it real easy to order it.

Here's a pix of the parts fiche. Number 10 is the third gear pressure switch, number 11 is the second gear. Both are the same price but are made by different manufactures.

 
#31 · (Edited)
2010 Element EX 4WD Switch

The 3rd gear pressure switch on my 2010 Honda Element EX 4WD failed after 71K miles. Saved myself $350 by doing it myself. Dealer and repair shop wanted to charge $370 ($250 for repair + $120 for the diagnostic) for the repair. I paid only $12 for the switch and $3 for the 10mm gasket. Parts can be purchased from the Honda dealer's parts department. If the parts are not available, the Honda dealer's parts department can have the parts shipped and arrive by the next day for pick up. I found it very hard to find these parts at O'Reilly or NAPA.

Here is the location of the 2010 Element EX 4WD 3rd gear pressure switch...



Side by side of old and new switch...



Parts I used for the replacment...

3rd Gear pressure switch (SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE):
28600-R90-013

Crush washer (10mm Gasket):
90471-PW7-A00

The part 28600-R90-003 is what is listed on most auto parts websites. The 28600-R90-013 part is interchangable with the 28600-R90-003 part number. At least that's what the Honda parts store told me. I think the 28600-R90-013 is a newer replacement for the 28600-R90-003 and is used on the newer Honda transmissions as well.
 
#32 ·
$12.00? Where and how did you score a deal like that?

So basically the issue now is determining if it is the 2nd or 3rd switch that is the fault in my Dad's 03. With no check engine light, how can I pull a code? Would a transmission shop need to do something special to read the transmission codes since there is no check engine light activated?
 
#33 · (Edited)
RE: Where and how did you score a deal like that?



I purchased the part at the Honda Dealer's parts department. Just call your local Honda dealer and ask for the parts department. All of the dealers in my area have a parts department.

If you get the flashing 'D', then it is definitely the 3rd gear pressure switch. The part used for the 2nd and 3rd gear pressure switch are different and are not interchangeable.

This website is a good place to go to look up the part needed for your vehicle: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com

You can go to the O'Reilly Auto Parts store to have them pull the code from vehicle.
 
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