Real Intermittent Wipers

[bh241]

DIY circuit info moved to a separate thread.

Summary
Updated August 23, 2010

The following encapsulates information from subsequent posts. BH241 pioneered this modification and started the thread; other members contributed information about parts and procedures. —Ramblerdan


Tools and Supplies

• About 3' of dual-conductor wire, preferably color-coded
• Medium Phillips screwdriver
• Very small slotted screwdriver
• Wire cutter
• Wire stripper
• Crimper (if using crimp-style butt connectors)
• Wire connectors: Posi-Lock or crimp-style butt connectors, small wire nuts, or equivalent
(Alternately, a soldering iron or gun, solder, and electrical tape or shrink tubing)
• Continuity test light or VOM to check connections (recommended)
• Small zip ties or electrical tape
• Tiny jeweler's screwdriver or equivalent (if removing pigtails from a donor X connector or a Metra 71-7992 connector)


Parts

• 2003–08 Pilot wiper switch, Honda p/n 35256-S9V-A01
• Two pigtails for the switch connector
• Two pigtails for the X connector at the back of the under-dash fuse box

For the switch connector pigtails, you can use either Honda p/n 04320-SP0-A00 or 04320-SP0-B00. The terminals are the same on both parts. The wire gauges differ slightly, but either will work. It might be advantageous to have both, for color-coding purposes.

For the X connector, you have these choices:

a) Terminals with wire stubs from the X connector of a donor (junkyard) car. This is a sure bet, and each connector contains several usable parts.

b) Pigtails removed from a Metra 71-7992 connector. The 71-7992 has the advantage of being readily available, and each connector has eight of the small pigtails. The 7992 terminals don't snap smartly into the X connector the way the Honda part does, but they do work. You will have to file, cut, or fold over the tabs on the back of each terminal to make it fit into the X connector.

To remove terminals from the donor connector, gently press each wire in toward the front of the plastic shell to unload the locking tab, insert a tiny jeweler's screwdriver or equivalent from the front to compress the tab, and pull the wire out the back. (Illustration below is for a different connector, but the idea is the same.)


Honda

c) Pigtails from a dealer's kit if you can match them to the ones on the X connector.

d) Honda wire terminals, p/n 07JAZ-001360A. You will have to crimp a wire onto each terminal.

e) Tyco part 173681-6, referenced below. This is available in reasonable quantitites only by begging free samples from Tyco.


Procedure

1) Remove the upper and lower garnish from the steering column.


Honda

2) Disconnect the wiper switch connector by pressing the release tab and pulling straight out.

3) Remove the old wiper switch by taking out two screws, prying at a point between them just enough to release a locking tab (arrow in photo below), and sliding the switch out to the right.


Gambling Element

4) Install the new wiper switch.

5) Remove the X connector from the back of the under-dash fuse box by pressing the release tab and pulling straight out.


Ramblerdan

6) Release the retaining tabs on the back of the switch connector and the X connector. (The tabs on the switch connector looks like those in the photos below and are released exactly as shown; the X connector is similar.)


Ramblerdan

7) Note the orientation of the terminals inside the switch connector and add pigtails to empty slots #9 and #10. Record the color coding of the pigtails.


BH241

8) Note the orientation of the terminals inside the X connector, and add pigtails to empty slots #3 and #4 (already wired in photo below). Record the color coding (or other marking) of the pigtails. If you are using pigtails from a Metra 71-7992 connector, you will need to file, cut, or fold the tabs on the rear of each terminal before fitting it into the X connector.


BH241

9) Replace the retaining tabs on both connectors.

10) Connect one wire between X connector pin #4 and switch connector pin #9. Leave enough slack for the connector to reach to the back of the fuse box.

11) Connect the other wire between X connector pin #3 and switch connector pin #10.

12) Check continuity between X connector pin #4 and switch connector pin #9, and between X connector pin #3 and switch connector #10 (recommended).

13) Reinstall the X and switch connectors, secure the wire, and reinstall the steering wheel garnish.

[bh241]

How about an interesting twist of this whole concept.

I just finished installing a 2006 Honda Pilot wiper switch on my Element. It's part # 35256-S9V-A01. I bought it from Honda for $36.00 give or take.




Here's the deal, this thing bolts right up, you have to run two wires from the additional two terminals on the switch ( # 9 & #10 ) to the Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box connector X ( pins #3 & #4 ). Granted it's a royal pain in the ass to get to since it's in the rear of the UDFR Box, but it's about as easy a way to get real intermittent wipers in the Element as I've seen.

Why didn't Honda do this to begin with? or at least offer it as an option?

[_jea_]

Wow, this looks cool! Would it be easy for a biologist to install it?

[tribalelement]

Wow thats nuts, I have to have one :)

[box-E]

Your kidding, it was that easy, bad Honda:-x. Thanks for posting and thanks for the part number. Do you think it's any different on an 07?:confused: Drew:)

[bh241]

Originally Posted by box-E

Do you think it's any different on an 07?:confused:

Shouldn't be any different. The same part # is in the '08 pilot, and the E's hasn't changed.

I really don't see why this wasn't put in the E to begin with, what would the cost have been anyway? The part was readily available, the MCU doesn't need to be modified, the only real addition would be two wires...

Maybe next they will put it in the '09.... would be a nice "upgrade"

[NismoGriff]

Now this is what I am talking about. I had built the other circuit but never installed it yet because I didn't really like the idea of a random knob/box mounted on the dash some place. I had done something just like this on the wife's Mazda Protege 5 using a control stalk from an MPV van. I will defintately be ordering one one of these switch's. Thanks!! On another note, do you have a diagram of what wires I will be accessing when I install this....I have yet to purchase a FSM

[bh241]

Originally Posted by NismoGriff

do you have a diagram of what wires I will be accessing when I install this....

That's the funny part... the wires are not in the harness! You'll have to run two wires from the UDFR's "X" connector on the back, to the two additional pins on the Pilot's switch.

Just run a couple of wires, connect the UDFR's "X" connector pin # 4 to the new Pilot's switch pin # 9, and the UDFR's "X" connector pin # 3 to the Pilot switch pin # 10.

yes, it's a royal pain to do.... especially for a middle aged (maybe a tad more than middle.... ) guy....

The "X" connector:


Yes, it's located on the back of the UDFR Box


Here's the two wires in place:


The two wires need to go up to the Wiper/Washer Switch.


I would recommend going to Honda and trying to get the 'pigtail' connectors - I didn't but then again, I do work in an electronics shop. :wink:

[NismoGriff]

Thanks for the pics bh241, that rocks!! I highly doubt I will try to get the pigtails from Honda. I have quite a few incomplete Honda engine and interior wiring harness parts at my shop. I am sure I can find the appropriate pins to remove from one plug and graft into the E's plugs. Oh and I agree, accessing the under dash fuse/relay box is a complete PITA :-x

[ramblerdan]

Super cool mod, BH.