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Old 10-21-2012, 07:41 PM   #51
misdirection11082
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so if your running 17inch+ aftermarket wheels might not need to shave anything off of them?
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:48 PM   #52
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depending on the style but yea most 17s will work. some 16s work its rare but some have the golden offset and spoke design for big brakes

most oem wheels even the SC wheels would need a spacer I think the TL-s wheels have a +55 offset type R is +60 purely for the brake clearance but they have a flat inner face of wheel so brake clearance is min

diameter is to clear the top of caliper. offset/spoke design is to clear the caliper poke past the rotor. if your close to fitting most of the clearance issue is where the spoke meets the drum of the rim so the caliper gets shaved to get the 1mm clearance
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:25 PM   #53
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my calipers are being painted up all pretty like so I smoothed them out shaved the casting marks etc. which also gave me more clearance. and I get this with 25mm spacers. they clear with 20mm spacers but you cant run oem wheel weights. maybe smaller ones but I wouldnt trust such small clearance with a generic tire guy.

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Old 11-09-2012, 08:47 PM   #54
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Is that the TL-S setup? Looks great-REALLY fills out the wheel wells.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:28 PM   #55
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yep its the TL-S 12.2" kit. looks weird with the brembos in bare metal but now that they fit both my summer set and winter set of wheels I can paint them up nice.

just a teaser shot I helped a friend design these. mine will be similar.but for SC
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:14 AM   #56
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Those look GREAT!!!!!

Glad someone finally did this!

Do you have pics of the machining to the rear of the caliper?
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:05 AM   #57
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I will take pics shortly. it was pretty simple the caliper mount was 21mm thick I took it down to 16mm. I also had to ream the hole in the knuckle slightly also as the TL bolts are larger. but if your not into modding the original parts. so you can still reverse the mods you could just toss a helicoil into the caliper to reduce the threads to oem.

I have made them fit. but my mod isnt done yet. theres still a few variables im working out. I also figured out for an element unless you want to make a hard line for the fronts. order 2 sets of rear braided lines for a tl-s. or...just use stock element line it works to.

IE since theres a leading and trailing piston. instead of swapping right and left caliper sides. to get the bleeder up top.

can I remove the 2 allen plugs and swap the bleeders on the caliper itself?
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:55 AM   #58
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line on right is tl-s rear. left is tl-s front. they go hard line/rubber/hard line
so to use it you need to either get an oem hose to caliper hard line. make one or use a tl-s rear line up front. which also uses the same bracket as oem.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:34 PM   #59
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Cool... Good to know! Not sure if I am going to do this yet, but highly contemplating it as I do not like the amount of brake dust the Rotora put off. It is not bad for that aggressive of a pad, but I don't need that. A set of Hawk HPS will be plenty.

Also, what model car is the rotor you are using off of?
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:03 PM   #60
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I am using the set as it was intended. and all it took was 5mm of machine work. (you could also get extended studs and run 5mm spacers under the rotors. but I didnt want to push my wheels out anymore. even though the dC5-R front LCAs did pull the wheels in about 5-10mm

TL-S calipers
TL-S pads
TL-S 12.2 rotors

and while I was at it
TL-S rear rotors and pads.( TL-S uses more shims for pads in rear with the brembo kit)

for now im using the recommended pads. this may change as I break them in and learn the limits. but the improvement is huge. and almost feels like it was meant to have these brakes. semi met up front and ceramic out back. but I may eventually go with hps or ebc pads. and 2 piece rotors.

if I feel a lack of pedal pressure il swap to the TL-S master cyl but with the SS lines etc it feels great.

I didnt get to go nutz testing them out before removing them to do some refinishing but im very pleased sofar.

my total cost sofar was
270$ pads and rotors F+R
250$ pair of calipers
100$ SS lines and all rebuild kits including rear park brake

overall for alil over 600$ with all that was replaced (and I was due for a brake job anyway)ide say it was pretty cost effective.

I think ive said before a s2k rotor can be used with little to no machine work but the pads hang past the rotor which makes for periodic checking and trimming the pads as they wear. but for me my train of thought was... rotors dont give any extra clearance. the caliper sits where it is regardless. so I wanted the correct size rotor.

you should also look into the EPS steering swap im doing. it cleans up the area nicely for running turbos and less parasitic drag.
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Last edited by racerc2000; 11-13-2012 at 07:20 PM.
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