Some pictures of 3rd gear pressure switch replacement

[RarestRX]

Originally Posted by lizzurd

The part number is 28600-RCL-004.

I'm resurrecting this to add the crush washer part number for the above is:

90471-PW7-A00

10mm gasket.

Hope that helps!

[asm]

Originally Posted by ApriliaGuy

FWIW....your trans dipstick handle should be rotated to the left....lined up with that little black plastic "vent."

I don't know why, but thats what it says in the service manual.

Do you mean rotating left until the ring part of the dip stick is pointing at the plastic cap to the left?

B

[Turtle2]

Anyone save a copy of these pictures? I would like to see them now that I might need them.

[hawkns]

I have the flashing D right now and my shop said that the code is the bad pressure switch, so I ordered the switch ($35 shipped) and it should be here in a couple days. I will try to take some photos to update this post when I install mine.

[350zchad]

please do, or I will, have to do mine soon too

[torc]

So, has anyone actually followed through with gettings pics? The CRV owners club has great pics but they are getting to the switch from below. I was hoping to go in from the top. Can anyone confirm this photo is actaully from an Element?

[torc]

I was a victim of the pesky flashing D and since the original poster of this thread deleted the photos, I thought I’d replace them since I just changed out the 3rd gear pressure switch. As with all jobs, work at your own risk and you assume all responsibility for anything you do regardless of what I list here. This is how I accessed and changed the switch, there are other ways.

This is a simple job to do if you know what to look for and what to expect. When I was trying to find info about this job, I couldn’t find anything showing exactly where the switch was. This will clear it up. Some people prefer tackling the job from above but I chose to go through the wheel well. I’ve read posts where people removed the battery and battery tray but I’m fairly sure I could have done it by simply removing the battery.

I took my Element to my Honda dealer and had them check and confirm that the pressure switch was the culprit and it wasn’t a wiring problem. This cost me $55. They wanted $60 for the switch and another $6 for the new crush washer. I found it strange that they charged me ¾ of an hour to trouble shoot it but wanted to charge me another ¾ hour to replace the switch. They were already there and removed the wiring, I don’t understand. But, that’s why I rarely go to the dealer. Needless to say, I ordered my parts after doing a Google search for them.

Before you get started you’ll need the pressure switch. My Element is a 2004 4WD EX.
28610-RAY-003 Pressure Switch $34.93
90471-PW7-A00 Crush washer (dealer calls it a gasket) $1.87

Parts needed:
Car jack and lug wrench
Flat blade screwdriver
7/8” open end wrench
Rag

I raised the car up, put a jack stand under it and removed the driver side front wheel. You’ll clearly see the three plastic clips that hold the plastic shield on. There are two inside the wheel well and one under the front of the car. Slide a flat blade screwdriver under the little slot and carefully pry the plastic clip up. Eventually the clip will pop out. Once all three are removed, you can easily push the shield down and out of the way.

Here are a few pictures showing where the pressure switch is.




There's a small opening from the bottom on the front that allows a good look at the switch. Here's a peek at the old switch.


Once the shield is away, feel around the wiring harness and you should be able to feel the raised part that needs pushed in so it can be removed. Just one tab needs pressed in and I found the harness removed very easily. There’s plenty of room for a wrench or socket to swing. I used a 7/8” open end wrench because it’s the only thing I had that would fit. If you want to use a sillymeter socket or wrench, I think you’ll need something around 22. You’ll need a deep well socket.

Because this thing is not highly torque down, it was easy to break it loose and remove it. You’ll get a little tranny fluid running out but not much. I just jammed a rag in below the hole to soak it up as it leaked out. Not enough came out that I felt the need to check the fluid level. Thread the new one in and be careful you don’t cross thread it. Don’t forget to add the crush washer (like I did). Torque it down to about half a grunt. I have no idea what the torque recommendations are but… tight is tight and too tight is broke. Snap the wiring harness back on, replace the plastic shield, put the tire on and go for a test ride and check for leaks. No more flashing D….WOOHOO!

Here it is installed and wiring harness attached.


Here’s a side by side pic of the old and new pressure switch.