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Old 09-29-2012, 04:30 AM   #51
eedviking
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:46 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basset Box View Post
One problem I ran in to was when tightening up the 6 nuts that anchor down the cover, a few started getting tight but then never got tighter. I can spin them. What happened? This happened prior to me getting it as tight as it was when I removed it. How big of a problem is this? Is it something that needs to be addressed? Will it work fine or will it need to be out of commission until something is done?
Sounds like you stripped the threads, hopefully in the nuts and not the studs. Don't torque a nut to be "as tight as it was when I removed it"; tighten it to spec with a torque wrench.
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:43 PM   #53
Basset Box
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblerdan View Post
Sounds like you stripped the threads, hopefully in the nuts and not the studs. Don't torque a nut to be "as tight as it was when I removed it"; tighten it to spec with a torque wrench.
Took forever to get a nut off and it does seem that the bolt was stripped. Going to replace them all tomorrow and getting new nuts too. Tonight I will be grabbing a torque wrench. I've put off getting one for too long, and it caught up to me.

Tough advice, but it's the truth. Thanks Dan!
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:06 PM   #54
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Luckily a dealer in town had all the parts for me. I just replaced all the bolts and nuts just in case there was some thread damage on the others. Getting some of the bolts loose was tough but after that it was a breeze. Also snagged a Torque wrench from Sears to do the job. Thanks Einstein for a great thread!
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:59 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jynx View Post
Going to do this but am wondering about the necessary replacement parts. I don't want to have the engine open and then need parts that are out of stock at the dealer or anything like that.

How much if this is necessary?
Honda bond (part #?)
valve cover gasket (12341-RTA-000)
spark plugs, and spark plug tube seals (30522-PFB-007)
valve cover bolt washers (90441-RAA-A00)

What about 12030-RAA-A01 GASKET SET, HEAD COVER

What does that include?
The gasket set comes with the gasket plug seals and top grommets.

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_p...nGroupID=11456

At minimum I would replace the gasket and plug seals. The top grommets seldom leak on new Hondas.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:07 PM   #56
AndyelemenT
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Tackled this today...went off great...except of you have a manual transmission MAKE SURE TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL..I put so much effort into turning it and I lost, it was so so strong- I gave up...then did some internet sleuthing and found that you should put it in neutral (did I miss it in the first post?)- once I put it in neutral smooth sailing.

Car has about 130,000 miles on it. My exhausts were all tight as heck, less than .07! Some of the intakes were tight but not by much, a few were out of the tolerance. I made them all the looser end of spec.

Last edited by ramblerdan; 05-19-2017 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:25 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyelemenT View Post
MAKE SURE TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL
Removing the spark plugs will also ease turning the engine. Just be sure no foreign objects fall down the holes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyelemenT View Post
Then when I was putting everything back together I was rushing and overtightened one of the bolts ... the one all the way to the far left and closest to the front of the car. Anyone know the part number of this?
Seems like you need either #8 or #9.



Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyelemenT View Post
Looking at the helms manual and can't find the part # for it anywhere.
You won't find part numbers in the service manual. A few online parts sources, in alpha order:

Bernardi (Massachusetts)
Cheap Honda Parts (California)
College Hills Honda (Ohio)
Honda Parts Deals (Rhode Island)
Honda Parts Now (California)
Honda Parts Store (Maryland)
Honda Parts Unlimited (Arizona)
Majestic (Rhode Island)
My Honda Parts Store (Oklahoma)
Real Honda Parts (Texas)
YourHondaParts.com (Arizona)
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:20 AM   #58
Kinsha
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What kind of torque wrench are you guys using for the valve locking nuts and the valve cover. I have a big one I use for wheel lugs and other big jobs. Are you using a small one that can measure under 20lbs.?
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:03 PM   #59
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Yes, you'll need a small torque wrench—maybe even one calibrated in inch-pounds, which of course you'll have to convert to Newton-meters.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:02 PM   #60
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Kinsha, yes a inch pound 1/4 drive torque wrench is best for torque specs with valve adjustment. Got mine from amazon good deal, precision instrustruments 1/4 drive. An example intake locknuts torque to 20NM=177inlbs, exhaust 14NM=124inchlbs. (Maybe that's why the exhaust is always tight 53 inslb difference ?)

Last edited by Bross; 07-30-2014 at 10:07 PM.
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