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Old 09-28-2012, 07:59 PM   #111
Basset Box
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I finally did this today. Finding the hash mark was actually tough for me, and even with removing the spark plugs it wasn't easy to rotate. I left the wheel on and would recommend taking that off, might be able to get more leverage.

Outside of the #1 exhaust and intake being a tad tight, nearly everything was within specs. Only had to adjust a few.

One problem I ran in to was when tightening up the 6 nuts that anchor down the cover, a few started getting tight but then never got tighter. I can spin them. What happened? This happened prior to me getting it as tight as it was when I removed it. How big of a problem is this? Is it something that needs to be addressed? Will it work fine or will it need to be out of commission until something is done?

This is by far the most intensive engine work I've done and don't want to cause any long term problems. Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:30 AM   #112
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:46 AM   #113
ramblerdan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basset Box View Post
One problem I ran in to was when tightening up the 6 nuts that anchor down the cover, a few started getting tight but then never got tighter. I can spin them. What happened? This happened prior to me getting it as tight as it was when I removed it. How big of a problem is this? Is it something that needs to be addressed? Will it work fine or will it need to be out of commission until something is done?
Sounds like you stripped the threads, hopefully in the nuts and not the studs. Don't torque a nut to be "as tight as it was when I removed it"; tighten it to spec with a torque wrench.
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:43 PM   #114
Basset Box
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblerdan View Post
Sounds like you stripped the threads, hopefully in the nuts and not the studs. Don't torque a nut to be "as tight as it was when I removed it"; tighten it to spec with a torque wrench.
Took forever to get a nut off and it does seem that the bolt was stripped. Going to replace them all tomorrow and getting new nuts too. Tonight I will be grabbing a torque wrench. I've put off getting one for too long, and it caught up to me.

Tough advice, but it's the truth. Thanks Dan!
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:06 PM   #115
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Luckily a dealer in town had all the parts for me. I just replaced all the bolts and nuts just in case there was some thread damage on the others. Getting some of the bolts loose was tough but after that it was a breeze. Also snagged a Torque wrench from Sears to do the job. Thanks Einstein for a great thread!
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:13 PM   #116
Afopto
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misfire/valve adjustment question

New to this thread...Not a real good regular maintenance type. Anyway, 2005 with 191,000 purchased @ 89000. Do not know if valve adjustment was ever done previous to my purchase. Never had idle or sluggish issues until recently. Started throwing misfire codes on 1 and 3, chnaged coil packs around then codes on 2 and 4. Replaced plugs and coils. Still will not run on all 4 cylinders. Starts great seems to run on all 4 for about 2-3 minutes then 2-3 cylinders poorly, when warm runs well but only on 3 cylinders (pretty sure). Going to check the valve adjustment tomorrow evening and adjust as needed. Could this be the cause? Have I burned a valve? Cam I know without pulling the head?

Thought appreciated. Hoping for a something less than major $$$
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:22 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afopto View Post
New to this thread...Not a real good regular maintenance type. Anyway, 2005 with 191,000 purchased @ 89000. Do not know if valve adjustment was ever done previous to my purchase. Never had idle or sluggish issues until recently. Started throwing misfire codes on 1 and 3, chnaged coil packs around then codes on 2 and 4. Replaced plugs and coils. Still will not run on all 4 cylinders. Starts great seems to run on all 4 for about 2-3 minutes then 2-3 cylinders poorly, when warm runs well but only on 3 cylinders (pretty sure). Going to check the valve adjustment tomorrow evening and adjust as needed. Could this be the cause? Have I burned a valve? Cam I know without pulling the head?

Thought appreciated. Hoping for a something less than major $$$
you don't need to pull the head to check...just the valve cover.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:20 PM   #118
Afopto
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I understand "not the head" for valve adjustment. But how can I know if I have toasted a valve?
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:46 PM   #119
Rick92040
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After your valve adjustment if it still isn't right run a compression test.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:34 PM   #120
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Just an update, now that it's cold again, on the valve job I did a few months ago. Had the dreaded stalling issue when cold. Even with the E left outside while at work, ABSOLUTELY no stalling issues whatsoever!! FWIW, I HIGHLY recommend this at/above recommended mileage, or if you're having any of the issues listed in this thread. It's a little of your time (or wallet) in trade for many years of savings.
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