VTEC problem: Code P2646 (also 2647, 2648, 2649) - Page 11 - Honda Element Owners Club Forum
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Old 12-01-2012, 11:41 AM   #101
jasoncarpenter1
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i took mine to Penske Honda in Ontario Ca. told them i replaced VTEC spool and oil pressure switch that i bought from them. Told them the whole story with mine. They had my Element about two days said it was fixed, said the check engine light did not come back on. i asked if they took it on a test drive on the freeway, he said no. I told them it wasn't fixed then. As soon as i got up to freeway speed then go under fourty, engine light comes on and limp mode ensues......... The helpful Honda guy said bring it back and they will look into it. I just don't want them doing a process of elimination on parts i have already replaced, charging me for everything. Any ideas????? Someone said i might have a faulty computer. i can get one off e-bay. any help is appreciated????
thanks Jason, the guy with cronic limp mode......
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:05 AM   #102
Larsa39
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Had P2647 OBD trouble code, and car would "stall" at about 2800 rpm, just as stated in comments above. I read that this was typically a problem re low oil pressure and/or clogged screen in the VTEC oil pressure sensor (reportedly about $250-$300 P+L to replace the sensor at dealership). Since I hadn't had the oil changed in about 8 months I went to Jiffy Lube and had flush (oil bath flush), and oil and filter change (total cost about $110 with discount - note that Jiffy Lube will give you a discount on bundled services purchase if you ask). Now, no problem whatsoever with operation. Just had to clear the engine light w/my Actron brand OBD II PocketScan.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #103
jasoncarpenter1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsa39 View Post
Had P2647 OBD trouble code, and car would "stall" at about 2800 rpm, just as stated in comments above. I read that this was typically a problem re low oil pressure and/or clogged screen in the VTEC oil pressure sensor (reportedly about $250-$300 P+L to replace the sensor at dealership). Since I hadn't had the oil changed in about 8 months I went to Jiffy Lube and had flush (oil bath flush), and oil and filter change (total cost about $110 with discount - note that Jiffy Lube will give you a discount on bundled services purchase if you ask). Now, no problem whatsoever with operation. Just had to clear the engine light w/my Actron brand OBD II PocketScan.
I have never had jiffy lube do a oil bath flush. when i first got the E there seem to be a lot sludge in the engine, when you took the oil cap off and looked inside. I have done 12 oil changes in the last 18 months. four of which i did put in motor flush before changing. My buddy has a Snap-On OBD II. we have erased the codes 50-60 times. they always come back...........will look into it thanks. jason
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:20 PM   #104
englocon
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What are the torque specs?

Hello All, I have read this thread from start to finish and I have performed both of the procedures suggested here (cleaned filters on strainer assembly and spool valve assembly) on my 2003 Element. However, now I have a couple of questions as I wrap up working on this project.

I am having trouble finding the torque specs for the following items in the manual I have:
1. Tensioner pulley assembly bolts
2. Strainer assembly bolts (#19 in parts fiche)
3. Spool valve assembly bolts (#20 in parts fiche?) - I have seen both 7.2 lbf/ft and 7.5 lbf/ft...

The only torque value I could find in the manual was for the power steering pump (16 lbf/ft) in the "power steering" section of the manual.

In addition, does anyone have a good technique for getting to the bolt on the underside of the tensioner pulley assembly? I can't seem to get to the bolt due to the engine mount and tensioner pulley and I'm afraid I won't be able to torque it down properly.

Last edited by englocon; 12-29-2012 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:35 AM   #105
brando462
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When I replace the entire solenoid assy, do I need to apply oil to the gasket?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:36 PM   #106
Island E
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Is it an actual gasket or a rubber o-ring type of thing? If it's the rubber one I would. If it's the cardboard looking one I wouldn't. Just make sure that the surface it butts up against is clean and has no residue from the old gasket.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:32 PM   #107
jasoncarpenter1
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update on mine...... i had some early success when i was dealing with the limp mode 2646 code. right before i would change the oil i would put in a bottle of motor flush. per directions it says idle motor for five minutes before changing. so i got to thinking maybe i would drive around the block and give the motor flush a little more time to work under a little more pressure. well i have had some more success, i have driven 20-30 miles at freeway speed without my E going into limp mode or engine light coming on. i was able to drive there fine. but on my return trip it did go into limp mode. so now i thinking about doing it again but giving the motor flush even longer time in motor. i remember how much sludge was in top of motor just by taking off the oil filler cap and looking in there. i'm thinking the slugde has something to do with it.
any idea's why?????
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:09 PM   #108
Island E
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Ever try running that sea foam stuff in your engine for a while? Supposedly that's some decent stuff for cleaning out gunk. Run a little though the vacuum booster and then put the rest in the crank case. Instructions are on the can.

I ran a whole can through my brake booster on an old neglected beater civic I bought a while back and the smoke show was crazy.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:11 PM   #109
jasoncarpenter1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island E View Post
Ever try running that sea foam stuff in your engine for a while? Supposedly that's some decent stuff for cleaning out gunk. Run a little though the vacuum booster and then put the rest in the crank case. Instructions are on the can.

I ran a whole can through my brake booster on an old neglected beater civic I bought a while back and the smoke show was crazy.
thats sounds like a good idea, am going to buy some and use.......
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:39 PM   #110
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So I went down to orlando for a work conference this weekend. On my way back I started to get the 3k rpm buck. I thought it was my transmission, so I pulled off the highway and got a hotel. I've now seen all these vtec pressure switch problems and I think that's probably what it is. Is this something I can limp back 200 miles at 50mph (no problems at 50mph) to my home and then work on it (or take it to honda) there? I can go to an autozone in the morning to verify the engine code. I doubt they'll have the correct switch. If I wanted to take out the screen (part #5) is oil going to leak out everywhere? Do you have to drain the oil first?

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cel , engine , jumping , limp mode , malfuntion , p2646 , p2647 , p2648 , p2649 , rpm , vsa , vtec

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