VTEC problem: Code P2646 (also 2647, 2648, 2649) - Page 12 - Honda Element Owners Club Forum
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #111
jasoncarpenter1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larsa39 View Post
Had P2647 OBD trouble code, and car would "stall" at about 2800 rpm, just as stated in comments above. I read that this was typically a problem re low oil pressure and/or clogged screen in the VTEC oil pressure sensor (reportedly about $250-$300 P+L to replace the sensor at dealership). Since I hadn't had the oil changed in about 8 months I went to Jiffy Lube and had flush (oil bath flush), and oil and filter change (total cost about $110 with discount - note that Jiffy Lube will give you a discount on bundled services purchase if you ask). Now, no problem whatsoever with operation. Just had to clear the engine light w/my Actron brand OBD II PocketScan.
I have never had jiffy lube do a oil bath flush. when i first got the E there seem to be a lot sludge in the engine, when you took the oil cap off and looked inside. I have done 12 oil changes in the last 18 months. four of which i did put in motor flush before changing. My buddy has a Snap-On OBD II. we have erased the codes 50-60 times. they always come back...........will look into it thanks. jason
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:20 PM   #112
englocon
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What are the torque specs?

Hello All, I have read this thread from start to finish and I have performed both of the procedures suggested here (cleaned filters on strainer assembly and spool valve assembly) on my 2003 Element. However, now I have a couple of questions as I wrap up working on this project.

I am having trouble finding the torque specs for the following items in the manual I have:
1. Tensioner pulley assembly bolts
2. Strainer assembly bolts (#19 in parts fiche)
3. Spool valve assembly bolts (#20 in parts fiche?) - I have seen both 7.2 lbf/ft and 7.5 lbf/ft...

The only torque value I could find in the manual was for the power steering pump (16 lbf/ft) in the "power steering" section of the manual.

In addition, does anyone have a good technique for getting to the bolt on the underside of the tensioner pulley assembly? I can't seem to get to the bolt due to the engine mount and tensioner pulley and I'm afraid I won't be able to torque it down properly.

Last edited by englocon; 12-29-2012 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:35 AM   #113
brando462
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When I replace the entire solenoid assy, do I need to apply oil to the gasket?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:36 PM   #114
Island E
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Is it an actual gasket or a rubber o-ring type of thing? If it's the rubber one I would. If it's the cardboard looking one I wouldn't. Just make sure that the surface it butts up against is clean and has no residue from the old gasket.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:32 PM   #115
jasoncarpenter1
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update on mine...... i had some early success when i was dealing with the limp mode 2646 code. right before i would change the oil i would put in a bottle of motor flush. per directions it says idle motor for five minutes before changing. so i got to thinking maybe i would drive around the block and give the motor flush a little more time to work under a little more pressure. well i have had some more success, i have driven 20-30 miles at freeway speed without my E going into limp mode or engine light coming on. i was able to drive there fine. but on my return trip it did go into limp mode. so now i thinking about doing it again but giving the motor flush even longer time in motor. i remember how much sludge was in top of motor just by taking off the oil filler cap and looking in there. i'm thinking the slugde has something to do with it.
any idea's why?????
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:09 PM   #116
Island E
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Ever try running that sea foam stuff in your engine for a while? Supposedly that's some decent stuff for cleaning out gunk. Run a little though the vacuum booster and then put the rest in the crank case. Instructions are on the can.

I ran a whole can through my brake booster on an old neglected beater civic I bought a while back and the smoke show was crazy.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:11 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island E View Post
Ever try running that sea foam stuff in your engine for a while? Supposedly that's some decent stuff for cleaning out gunk. Run a little though the vacuum booster and then put the rest in the crank case. Instructions are on the can.

I ran a whole can through my brake booster on an old neglected beater civic I bought a while back and the smoke show was crazy.
thats sounds like a good idea, am going to buy some and use.......
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:39 PM   #118
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So I went down to orlando for a work conference this weekend. On my way back I started to get the 3k rpm buck. I thought it was my transmission, so I pulled off the highway and got a hotel. I've now seen all these vtec pressure switch problems and I think that's probably what it is. Is this something I can limp back 200 miles at 50mph (no problems at 50mph) to my home and then work on it (or take it to honda) there? I can go to an autozone in the morning to verify the engine code. I doubt they'll have the correct switch. If I wanted to take out the screen (part #5) is oil going to leak out everywhere? Do you have to drain the oil first?

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Old 01-20-2013, 02:48 PM   #119
jasoncarpenter1
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it is fairly easy to clean screen. you have to take out 3 bolts (10mm) on the v-tec spoo,l unplug the sensors. very little oil will come out. just use a rag to wipe up. the screen is on the spool. clean, change oil and filter. you should be good. if you still have limp mode, you can still drive about 65-68mph you just cant go past 2900 rpm are it will sputter or give you no throttle responce until your speed is lower than 60mph. hope this helps

Last edited by ramblerdan; 01-22-2013 at 09:00 AM. Reason: quote
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:00 PM   #120
Ghoelix
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First post!

This has been an excellent site for researching before I actually bought my Element and recently, for troubleshooting problems.

I had VSA, CEL lights come on a couple days ago with engine stuttering while getting up to freeway speeds. Upon the recommendations of this website I got an OBD2 scanner and P2646 and P2647 came up. I called the local Honda dealership and they had the oil pressure switch / valve assembly in stock. I actually managed to successfully replace it, wasn't as hard as it first looked. Got an oil change right after. P2646 cleared on its own and I used scanner to clear P2647, will test on freeway in a bit to make sure it doesn't come back ( I hope it stays gone ).

Did run into one small problem, though I got a torque wrench that fit my sockets ( with adapter ), the handle is too long for me to use it effectively on the bolts that hold the oil pressure assembly in place. I tightened them pretty good but not so much that I couldn't turn them anymore. My question would be, how important is it to get just the right torque on them? I'm hoping that the Honda dealer wouldn't mind checking for me but I doubt I can do that today or tomorrow.

So what do you think? Is it probably fine, or is it important to get it just right and get it done right away? Also, how are you guys managing to torque the bolts, is there a certain wrench that works best for that space?

Thank you,

Ghoelix
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cel , engine , jumping , limp mode , malfuntion , p2646 , p2647 , p2648 , p2649 , rpm , vsa , vtec

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