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Interesting Painting Info : FWIW

3K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  preludemd 
#1 ·
Found this on lambolounge.com:
[size=+1]How to paint your car's plastic panels - flex agent[/size]
Question: I just bought a 2003 Honda Element and if you haven't seen one, half of the car is the unpainted composite panels. Except for that, I love the car. I am trying to find out a way to paint the panels. A lot of people say if you paint it normally it will chip and break because the panels are flimsy. I have also found you can add a "flex agent" to the paint so it won't chip or break. What do I need to do to paint these panels?
Answer: As for flex agent - this additive does not prevent paint from chipping or breaking. For me, flex agent is "old tech"! The flex additive was designed to allow for flexible parts to be remounted onto the vehicle, when initially removed or replaced, and should the need arise to twist or bend more than usual would prevent the paint from breaking apart/flaking/cracking etc..

This was designed primarily for lacquer paint usage due to the brittleness of lacquer. The new urethane paints - especially the two/three stage paint systems have much more flex capability that flex additives are not required.

In any case flex additives will evaporate with the rest of the solvents in the paint leaving you with the original paint characteristics - thus you have a window in which you need to have the parts reinstalled. Once paint has cross linked completely (dried) even with a flex additive amalgamated into the paint during the window of time, the paint can still crack because it has its flexing threshold. From my own research I discovered on a test panel I painted, that paint will flex approximately 30 degrees within a 6 inch circumference before it stress fractures and that is also dependent upon the ambient temperature/paint film build and the type of substrate the paint was applied over. Mind you please, that this is only a simple test and that my findings are not absolute - but it did help me to understand and expand my education.

I have attempted to provide you with a step by step instruction on how to paint your car's plastic panels. I'm not cognizant of your painting skills so please don't take offense if I have gone into "too much detail". I am just trying to ensure that certain procedures are followed to hopefully provide you with systematic method of achieving your goal. Please understand that there are a variety of methods with which to accomplish this and that my method is not to be taken as dogma. I highly suggest you ask other accomplished painters at local auto repair shops how they would approach your situation. Then make your decision on the steps you need to take. Also research the paint procedure you would take when using another type of paint system other than the PPG products that I listed.
I looked over the cladding of the Honda Element. My observation of the panels is that it has very fine pebbly texture to it and is a raw plastic.

What I mean is that it doesn't have a coating applied over it. I would highly suggest you paint the cladding off of the car. It would be easier to sand the edges of the cladding which is where the flaking of paint usually starts due to poor adhesion at the edges.

Here is the method I would use to paint the cladding/panels:
(note: I use PPG paint products and I will reference certain products in my procedure)

- Remove cladding from car

- Clean the panels to remove grease and other heavy contaminants by using:
simple green/wax & grease remover/tsp (mild solution) - I prefer the following method:

- Obtain spray bottles of simple green or a gallon of simple green to mix your own batch of strong simple green solution and put in a spray bottle. This solution is used to remove the mold release agent that continuously bleeds from the plastic. When plastic panels are manufactured the mold release agent is readily absorbed into the plastic product and if it is not painted at the factory it will continue to bleed the mold release agent. You could also use one of the paint company's plastic prep solutions but I find that in bulk amounts simple green works great for the price but use what you feel will do the job for you. You must understand that it is imperative that you clean the panels well prior to sanding dry. I like to "clean and sand" at the same time.

- Spray the solution generously over the panels while sanding with #320 or #400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Use a small rubber squeegee often to see how well the sandpaper is cutting out the texture. Note: if the #320/400 grit s-paper is not cutting out the texture fast enough for you then you will need to obtain #180 grit dry sandpaper and a foam sanding pad and cut the texture out with this grit. Then you will need to apply a couple of good wet coats of urethane primer surfacer - let dry a day or two - then come back and spray guide coat and block sand with #500/600 grit s-paper wet - dry off - allow an hour before sealing and spraying the basecoat/clear coat.

If the #320/400 grit s-paper is cutting the texture out fast enough for you then continue with the following steps.

- Sand the panel smooth to rid of the texture completely

- rinse the panel well with clean water

- respray the simple green/plastic prep cleaner over the panel and scrub it well with a sponge then rinse once again very well

- dry off (do not use any shop rags that have been used before to wipe off grease/oils etc., even if they are laundered - you'll be asking for trouble!!) My recommendation is Scott Blue disposable paper shop towels. (Note: if you use a compressor with a air blow gun to assist in the drying of the panel I highly recommend that you attach a moisture filter right at the air gun to prevent blowing oils/moisture onto the panel that will contaminate it. Ask your paint supplier about it. Do not use the round orange filter (I can't remember the brand of it) it will work but could break at the threads - which happened to me - obtain the black filter which I believe is made by either DiVillbiss or Motorguard.

- After drying off allow the panels to sit for about 30 minutes or so to allow any moisture that is remaining in the sand scratches to evaporate. If the ambient temp in the room you will be painting is less than 70 degrees you will need to allow for longer dry time.

- I use a product by PPG DX103 - which is a universal plastics cleaner. This a alcohol based cleaner used prior to painting. Spray the panel with the DX103 and wipe dry immediately being sure you flip your paper towel often.

- Then apply DPX801 which is a plastics primer/adhesion promoter/sealer. This product is RFU (ready for use) RTS (readly to spray). Shake the can well prior to spraying - no need to mix with anything else

- Allow the sprayed DPX801 plastics primer to sit one hour prior to topcoating

- Spray basecoat/clear coat - no flex agents required (note: when spraying the basecoat color you notice that there is "fuzz" or small little hairs standing up, this is what happens when you cut into plastics. If this should happen apply 4-6 passes of wet basecoat color. Allow to dry for 24 hours then come back and wetsand the panel with #600-800 grit s-paper just enough to remove all the fuzzies and hopefuly not cut thru to the plastic- wipe clean - let dry. Then respray a coat or two of basecoat color.

- Apply clear coat

- sand and polish if necessary to match the factory orange peel texture

- wax/seal panels

- reinstall panels

- admire your accomplishment!!!!
 
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#2 ·
Can you just not get some Krylon paint and Spray it on..? I have painted graffitti on some boxcars once and that is what we used.....
 
#3 ·
Hondamade4dogs said:
Can you just not get some Krylon paint and Spray it on..? I have painted graffitti on some boxcars once and that is what we used.....
that was you? I have seen your work and was amazed at how good you were. :grin:
 
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