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New Brakes & Tires?

3K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  ApriliaGuy 
#1 ·
It seems like every year or so I need at least 2 new tires and brakes, front in the winter and rear in the summer. I work about 25 miles away so I guess that doesn't help.

I always get my service done at the dealership because it's a block away, and they do my inspection free since I got the car there.

But right now I'm short on cash, I couldn't afford the new brakes and 2 front tires that they say I need, and even if I could they only had 1 tire in stock so I have to bring it back in for the 2nd one in a week or so anyway. THey're goodyear tires that cost $166.95 each. Yuck. What else sucks is this one new tire that I just got doesn't look all that new. I wonder if they just had a slightly used one that they put on just so I could pass the inspection....

Anyway, in 1000 miles my 70K extended warranty will be gone. I'm going to be moving also. So I'm thinking I might want to try getting some different tires and brakes this time. Do the honda dealerships usually use "the best"? Or can I get better stuff out there for the same price or less?

What are some good all weather tires to consider, possibly tires that will last more than a year? And what about brakes? Would I want to take it to a place like Just Tires or Pep Boys? Or find me a local mechanic? As far as my driving goes I'm pretty much 99.998% driving on roads & highways, but I want a tire that will be good in the snow in case we ever get a winter in Philly this year.

And on a side note, I am planning to trade my E in (it's an '03). I'm waiting to see what the 09 E's will be like since I heard they're getting totally redone. I'm also considering the Toyota FJ Cruiser. Anyway, if I do get all new tires and brakes, will I see any kind of return on that when I trade it in? Or will they just go with a generic Kelly Blue Book value and not care about the new stuff I just added?
 
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#2 ·
It seems like every year or so I need at least 2 new tires and brakes, front in the winter and rear in the summer. I work about 25 miles away so I guess that doesn't help.

I always get my service done at the dealership because it's a block away, and they do my inspection free since I got the car there.

But right now I'm short on cash, I couldn't afford the new brakes and 2 front tires that they say I need, and even if I could they only had 1 tire in stock so I have to bring it back in for the 2nd one in a week or so anyway. THey're goodyear tires that cost $166.95 each. Yuck. What else sucks is this one new tire that I just got doesn't look all that new. I wonder if they just had a slightly used one that they put on just so I could pass the inspection....

Anyway, in 1000 miles my 70K extended warranty will be gone. I'm going to be moving also. So I'm thinking I might want to try getting some different tires and brakes this time. Do the honda dealerships usually use "the best"? Or can I get better stuff out there for the same price or less?

What are some good all weather tires to consider, possibly tires that will last more than a year? And what about brakes? Would I want to take it to a place like Just Tires or Pep Boys? Or find me a local mechanic? As far as my driving goes I'm pretty much 99.998% driving on roads & highways, but I want a tire that will be good in the snow in case we ever get a winter in Philly this year.

And on a side note, I am planning to trade my E in (it's an '03). I'm waiting to see what the 09 E's will be like since I heard they're getting totally redone. I'm also considering the Toyota FJ Cruiser. Anyway, if I do get all new tires and brakes, will I see any kind of return on that when I trade it in? Or will they just go with a generic Kelly Blue Book value and not care about the new stuff I just added?

Since dealers tend to consider "reconditioning" costs into a trade you could make brake pads out of paper mache for all most of them care. My used car managers do a quick walk around the vehicle and a quick drive around the block when doing an appraisal. A quick check on any service history with that dealer ship is done as well. Blue book values are based on year,model,mileage, options and overall condition of vehicle.

At my dealer ship when possible we try to give the customer a few different options with replacement tires. Other vehicles we only keep the OE tire due to low demand.For what the Wranglers cost you can get better tires for the same or even less money.
 
#3 ·
thanks for the info

I alraedy was looking around on the web, heck at Sears I can get the same tires for $20 cheaper.

I will still need the brakes though. Wish I could do it myself. Always wanted to try but I'm too scared of screwing something up and brakes is the one thing I don't wanna screw up :)

Hell I don't even know how to replace a tire, never had a flat with my E so I never had to break out the jack or anything. I'll have to read the manual one day :)
 
#4 · (Edited)
If you want stock size all-season tires, you can get them far cheaper than $160 each. You could get a set of Bridgstone Revo All-Terrain tires in 235/70R16 size for a lot cheaper than $160 each.

Never go to the dealer for tires, they will always rip you off.

I notice you are in Philly, If you got some time and a place to put the new brakes on, I could help you with the brakes.
 
#5 · (Edited)
It sounds like you are going through your brake and tire really fast. My 03 EX has a bit over 60k miles on it and I just replaced the original front pads today. The old pads still have about 15% pads left and the rear still has about 40% pads left. As far as tires go, I replaced the wranglers at 50k miles and got the popular Yokahama Geolander.

If you want to save some money, I strongly suggest you read some of the other posts here regarding brakes and attempt to replace it yourself, it really isn't that hard. Here is a good DIY brake guide, even if it's not for honda. It's pretty much the same, just ignore the rotor replacement part. I went with the Akebono ProAct ceremic from tirerack.com. They were $59.99 +SH.

To save money on tire, I suggest you do your research on tirerack.com because they have the best price. Once you decide on a model, try to get a local shop to price match. That way you get the low price and get them install the same day. I got my Geolanders from America's Tire but at tirerack's price which was $89.99. I think the regular price was $130ish.

Good Luck
 
#6 ·
2nd on ZPhat's recommendation. I have used Tirerack in the past (to replace the runflats on my MINI Cooper, $249 per at the Dealership $120 at Tirerack). Discount Tire, if they are in your area, will usually match Tirerack's prices. If not, Tirerack has a list of local tire shops they will ship the tires too, to be installed. Usually only take a few days to ship, as Tirerack has warehouses in several parts of the country. You can also get brake pads, etc from Tirerack.
 
#7 · (Edited)
dude, discounttiredirect dot com has Yokohama Geolandar tires for $96 each, with free shipping. I paid $84 per tire, but they just had a price increase. (Do not go to the dicounttire dot com site! Although sister companies, they do not give the best pricing, as they are $125 on there.) The YokoGeo HT-S is a far better tire from my experience. I have a local tire shop mount for $12. I cannot imagine using the Goodyears ever again!

As for the brakes... Make sure you do not rest your foot on the brake pedal when you are not braking! I'd go to another shop for a second opinion. I've got 53K on mine, and I am no where near wearing out even the front brake pads.
 
#8 ·
Well I guess that's part of the problem with the brakes for me.. around here, my ride to and from work is mostly on a highway that's pretty packed, I usually have my foot on the brake pedal for half the trip, just coasting along.

I looked at the DIY page or replacing brakes, I think that might be a little beyond me. I might try it some time but right now I just wanna get it done by a pro :) I'm scared I'll mess it up and also I don't think I have all the right tools
 
#9 ·
You will not have to change the brakes, and you will get better fuel mileage if you don't rest your foot on the brake pedal. Drive with your right foot, on either the gas or the brake. Leave your left over on the firewall spot where it cannot do harm.

My father used to hit me when I left my foot on the clutch between shifting! I trained my wife that way, and our marriage survived...:D
 
#10 ·
hehe I do drive with my right. What I meant was the highway I have to ride on to and from work is always backed up for half the trip, so it's like the only pedal I'm using is the break and just coasting in between :)

I'm glad I picked and E though, I love driving it so I don't mind the long & sucky commute :)
 
#11 ·
I'll put +1 on never getting the Wranglers again. HORRIBLY overpriced tire that has zero traction and wears out insanely fast. And also don't go to the dealer for tires, they'll generally jack you around for at least 50% more. Check Tire Rack, they have great deals. I'm currently running the Yokohama Geolandars H/T-S that I picked up for $89.99 each and I'm lovin 'em. Honestly the fact that you're still running the Wranglers probably has a lot to do with the fact that you're wearing through them so fast. The Wranglers on my first Element were bald at 12K miles! :shock: Switched to the Yokohamas and never looked back :D

And take Critical_Level_2 up on his offer to help you with brakes. You can save a ton of cash!!



 
#13 ·
Disc brakes are a piece of cake to deal with. I did it and while I am mechanically inclined, I had zero car mechanic experience :D



 
#14 ·
Hondas have brake wear indicators that set up a noticeable racket when the pads are getting thin. You have a while after the noise starts before you have metal on metal. If you aren't hearing the noise you don't need brakes assumeing there are no other problems like warped rotors.
 
#15 ·
In general, front brakes are the easiest. On some cars the caliper bolts are a bear to get loose but the Element bolts come off OK if you have the right size socket and a half-inch ratchet. I would say the hardest part is squeezing the piston back in so the new pads will fit. I have used one of those yellow and black wood clamps for this one the last 10 or so brake jobs I did, but you have to have a pretty strong grip to make it work.
The rears would probably take a special tool to get the piston back in because most of them have to be rotated with a tool the right size to fit the grooves in the piston. Haven’t done my rears yet but all of the rear disks I have ever worked on have this set up.
I got over 70k out of the front brakes and I am an aggressive driver. The rears are still original after 80k.

Roach
 
#16 · (Edited)
..... I would say the hardest part is squeezing the piston back in so the new pads will fit. I have used one of those yellow and black wood clamps for this one the last 10 or so brake jobs I did, but you have to have a pretty strong grip to make it work.

The rears would probably take a special tool to get the piston back in because most of them have to be rotated with a tool the right size to fit the grooves in the piston..
I've found that by loosening the bleeder screw the piston should move back in easily. If you can't easily push the piston back in something ain't right.
Just put a piece of hose on the bleeder to direct the fluid into a container to cut down on the mess. Clamps work, but w/ this method you also get to make sure there is no crud causing the piston to stick. :wink: (And you're prolly gonna bleed the brake fluid anyway, right?)

I also like to push the calipers in and out several times to be sure the piston isn't stuck. To get it back out just push down gently on the brake pedal. Be sure to put a wood block the thickness of the 2 backing plates and the rotor (about 1-1/2" - 2" if I recall correctly) in the caliper to prevent the piston from coming completely out.

The rear calipers on the E are like the fronts....just push 'em in....no need to rotate them.

I've mentioned it hundred of times before but....don't forget to use caliper grease on the caliper slides and ears of the pads.

Will
 
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