BlingLights Driving lights

[ApriliaGuy]

I finally decided to do something about the big light pockets in my front bumper….I installed some driving lights.

I installed the BlingLight driving light kit. Available to EOC members for a discount….follow this link for more info..

Andrew is a great guy and shipped them right out, I think they took about 3 days to get to me.

The lights and included wire harness are nice. The lights are a driving pattern light, and they have a led halo glow type feature. The housings on ones I got look different than the ones in that ad.

These would be a great choice for anyone that wants daytime running lights. Personally, I’m not a fan of most factory methods of achieving DRLs, but I agree with the improved safety in some conditions. With these lights you could easy wire them to go on and off with the ignition, and still have a manual override should the need arise.

I’ll break the install into 2 parts:

1. Mounting the lights
2. Installing the wiring harness


Much of these install instructions will work for you if you have another type/brand of light.

[ApriliaGuy]

Installing the lights can be a little tricky.

The easiest way I can think of is the ToolJedi light bracket method. They look like they would work perfectly.

An other method is the one used by forum member Burn619. This works nice and uses the brackets included in the kit, but I wanted the lights to fit in “deeper” in the light pocket in the bumper.

There may be some other great ideas out there...but here is “my way” 'cause I can't think of anything "great"!

To install my way you’ll need:

Tools
“Sharpie” for marking
3-1/2” hole saw w/ arbor
1 ¼ drill bit
1 3/16 drill bit
Small flat/square file

Hardware
2 each 4” scd 35 pvc pipe caps
8 each #8x3/4” SS tapping screw
4 each M6x20 hex head bolts (SS) w/ lock washers
Nylon spacers (bushings/standoffs/etc) trimmed down to about 3/8” long. Optional ?

Start by removing the front bumper cover. This is easier than it looks, and takes less than 5min if you’ve done it before. There are various instructions around the forum on how to do this.



Set it on something like a blanket so it won’t get marred.

I cut out the centers out of the light pockets w/ a 3-1/2” hole saw.




I used a 4” PVC (Schedule 35) pipe cap as a “bracket.” This is the thinner style PVC often used for drainage. They cost about $2 each. Regular schedule 40 caps are a bit bigger and stronger and run about $7 each (and may work better), but I didn’t have any layin’ round the shop.

I marked 4 points on the pvc caps and drilled 3/16” holes so the caps could be screwed to the mounting “posts” on the bumper covers. The holes need to be very close to the edge....the schedul 40 might be better because it is a bit more "oversize" and allow more room for the holes.


The centers of the caps were also cut out w/ the same 3-1/2” hole saw.



I drilled two holes in the sides of the caps and cleaned them up w/ a file as adjustment slots for the side bolts.



I trimmed back the posts about 1/8” with a utility knife so the pvc cap would sit more towards the front, so there light could move a bit for adjustment/aiming.

The pvc caps get screwed to the inside of the bumper cover w/ 3/4" tapping screws, and then the light gets held in place by the two 6mm hex cap screws through the sides of the cap. I used lock washers too.


I cut down some nylon spacers to fill the gap, but this might not be necessary. They interfered a bit w/ getting the right alignment.


Leave the lights hand tight for now, they’ll be adjusted once they’re wired up.

[ApriliaGuy]

Speaking of wiring…..
Pretty much everything you need for the wiring is included w/ the kit. I’d suggest the following though:

Tools-
Screw drivers
Wire cutters
10mm wrench
M6x1.0 tap and handle
3/8” drill bit
Coat hanger/”fish” wire

Hardware/Materials-
Electric tape-I like the good stuff-3M is $8 but much easier/neater to use.
M6 x short screw (SS) (I used a button head w/ a washer)
Split plastic wire loom (keeps wires from shorting on the metal inside fender and helps things look “factory.”)
Fuse tap
Lots of black wire ties


The wire harness is just about the perfect length. It just reaches both lights, the part by the fuse has maybe an extra inch to go to the positive battery post. The wires to the switch from the relay have an extra 3 inches or so that is easy to "tucK up out of the way as you route it to the switch. Except for the change I made for powering the switch there is no cutting/splicing necessary.

You can lay out the wires however you want, but be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting anything. You’ll need to reset your driver express window feature and reprogram your battery.

I started by laying the light end of the wire harness on the front bumper support and trying to center it. Don’t snug it down tight w/ zip ties yet, you need it to reach both lights!

I routed the other end up between the fender/lights to the area by the fuse box.



The fuse holder for the lights stays there nice by just friction alone.

I used the existing ground screw for the harness ground.



Now is a good time to disconnect the negative battery cable!
I routed the power wire along the factory harness and connected it at the positive battery post.


I used a 6mm x 1.0 tap to thread one of the existing holes by the top of the strut.
A #14 tapping screw should work also. I used a M6 "Button Head" socket screw w/ a washer to mount the relay and a small cable clamp.




This is what it looks like under the hood (before tidying everything up).



Now the fun part! I took the wires for the switch and cut the red/power wire about 2” from where it connects to the relay. I carefully taped it off. At this point, I wrapped the 2 remaining switch wires w/ split plastic loom and some electric tape. I managed to snake the wires for the switch down inside the fender and through an existing hole in the foot well area just like the hood release cable.



I used a fish wire from the inside and then taped the wires to it and pulled it back inside. I reused the plastic grommet by drilling a 3/8” hole in it for the wires and split wire loom to squeeze thru.

I mounted the switch in the lower section of the steering column cover just below the turn signal switch. Not a normal spot, but I don’t like the factory location. It is a good spot for me, but feel free to pick one you like better.



I routed the 2 light wire to the switch, then I ran the power wire to the switch from the dash power/accy fuse (#18 ) w/ the fuse tap thing.

not my pic...I forgot to grab one

This way the lights go off if I shut off the ignition instead of killing the battery.

I used a few wire ties (zip ties) to snug everything down and tidy things up.

Reconnect your neg battery cable and test the lights. Put it all back together and you’re almost done….leave the front bumper cover loose, so you can access the back of the lights.

[ApriliaGuy]

Now wait for dark so you can align the lights and snug everything back down and you’re good to go.

I had to fiddle with one quite a bit to aim it how I liked, but the other side was almost perfect.















Good luck….have fun.

Will

[Flashbox]

I can't wait to see some pics. I've thought about these before but forgot about em till i read this.

[kastivich]

Great write-up! Thats a very clever way of mounting the lights.

Do the halos glow more then shown in that picture? They look pretty dim but its probably just the camera.

[ApriliaGuy]

Originally Posted by kastivich

Do the halos glow more then shown in that picture? They look pretty dim but its probably just the camera.

They are kinda dim, but not as bad as the camera makes them look. I'll try to get a better pic.

Will

[ApriliaGuy]

This what the fuse tap thing looks like. I exceeded the image limit for the post...

[IMG][/IMG]

[Patman]

Looks good! I've had the tooljedi brackets for awhile now, was waiting to see how the lights would get wired on in. Too bad the stock switch couldn't be used, but you do get the extra halo effect in exchange.

[Burn619]

Nice job! I like how far back they sit in the cup. I couldn't go back that far because of my intake. I have the plexiglass actually touching my CAI now.