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Old 04-18-2010, 08:33 PM   #1
mrpolice
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How to replace rear stabilizer / sway bar links

No one had a how to on this so I made one. Many have complained about a groan and rattle from the rear suspension. Some suggested replacing the sway bar bushings. For some that worked, for me it did not. It was my stabilizer end links a.k.a. sway bar end links. Here is how I got them off...
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:40 PM   #2
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Next steps...

You can beat the crap out of these and you wont hurt your E unless you miss. Once the ball joint looking ends are exposed - put a vice grip on them and using a 14 mm socket or impact gun (like I did) take em' out. You have to use a vice grip or a strong friend with pliers because that mofo will just spin if you torque on it.

The new ones go right back in their place. They are right and left specific however. Stick an allen wrench in the end of the link - the tip of the threaded part (the only place it will fit) - then use a 14 mm open ended wrench to tighten it down. Hold the allen wrench steady as you go. I spent $15 and bought a 14 mm ratcheting open ended wrench to make it go faster. While the car is up in the air, tighten it but not all the way - just so it is snug. Then use a jack and jack up the rear hub you are working on. When you see all the vehicle's weight is on the jack - then tighten down the link ends all the way. - You're done. I spent $62 total on the parts.

I did both sides, the second one was about 3x as fast as the first.

My car has groaned for a year and after this fix it feels like a new car although Im sure it rides the same it's just so quiet. After I was done (last picture) I sprayed brake cleaner all over to get rid of the penetrating oil. Then I spray flat black high temp paint all over everything so any scuffs I made wouldn't rust.

All the other rust you see is typical for this climate where they use salt on the roads 6 months outta they year - bleh!

If this posts helps you let me know! This forum has saved me $1000's so far...
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Last edited by mrpolice; 04-18-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:10 AM   #3
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Just wanted to say NICELY DONE...!!! *applause*, *applause*...!

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Old 05-28-2010, 10:38 AM   #4
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Good work on those links, Mrpolice. Mine had rusted threads too, and ate two Allen keys before I finally removed the nuts. I like the "hammer justice" idea.

Best to put some anti-seize or grease on the exposed threads of the new links, or paint as Mrpolice did, to avoid the rust problem in the future.

Last edited by ramblerdan; 05-28-2010 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:51 PM   #5
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Great pics....I am down south of you in Akron...howdy E neighbor. Did you remove your tires when you did this? This is a great site to help us with our E's
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:45 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by SOCIAL DISTORTION View Post
Did you remove your tires when you did this?
Yes I removed the tires - without doing that it would be a bigger pain than it already was. If you see LeBron down there kick him in the nuts.
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:20 PM   #7
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Thanks for the tutorial. I just bought a pair of those links. Weird thing though, they cost me $16 each side at a Toronto Honda dealership and they were even in stock, no waiting. Hope mine aren't seized and I plan to use graphite on the threads when installing. Since I'm reusing the old nuts, I'm going to include a couple of split washers to prevent them from backing out.
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Old 08-28-2010, 04:39 PM   #8
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Added to the FAQ. Thanks! I am in the middle of doing this and will be using these instructions tomorrow to finish.
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Old 12-24-2010, 01:39 PM   #9
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mrpolice -- Are your new endlinks OEM or aftermarket?

If I go OEM, does anyone know if I'll need new Stabilizer Link Protectors? Or can the old ones be reused?

Confused over the price difference. Looks like the important part is only ten bucks and the plastic protector is sixty.
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:34 AM   #10
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Great article Jon!!

I have a Q; how did you know they were bad..? did they have play or what?

MTIA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpolice View Post
You can beat the crap out of these and you wont hurt your E unless you miss. Once the ball joint looking ends are exposed - put a vice grip on them and using a 14 mm socket or impact gun (like I did) take em' out. You have to use a vice grip or a strong friend with pliers because that mofo will just spin if you torque on it.

The new ones go right back in their place. They are right and left specific however. Stick an allen wrench in the end of the link - the tip of the threaded part (the only place it will fit) - then use a 14 mm open ended wrench to tighten it down. Hold the allen wrench steady as you go. I spent $15 and bought a 14 mm ratcheting open ended wrench to make it go faster. While the car is up in the air, tighten it but not all the way - just so it is snug. Then use a jack and jack up the rear hub you are working on. When you see all the vehicle's weight is on the jack - then tighten down the link ends all the way. - You're done. I spent $62 total on the parts.

I did both sides, the second one was about 3x as fast as the first.

My car has groaned for a year and after this fix it feels like a new car although Im sure it rides the same it's just so quiet. After I was done (last picture) I sprayed brake cleaner all over to get rid of the penetrating oil. Then I spray flat black high temp paint all over everything so any scuffs I made wouldn't rust.

All the other rust you see is typical for this climate where they use salt on the roads 6 months outta they year - bleh!

If this posts helps you let me know! This forum has saved me $1000's so far...
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