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Old 08-18-2011, 12:55 PM   #1
vpanin
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Brake caliper bracket pin is stuck!

I am doing a brake pad and rotor change. I was trying to lube the pins with my CRC synthetic brake grease but it looks like The Caliper bolt or pin is stuck inside the caliper bracket. I think it rusted into the side walls inside. I have tried hitting it with a hammer and spraying Liquid wrench inside and nothing. The damn thing is stuck inside. I dont think that i want to order a whole new caliper bracket as well as the Pins. Anyone ever experienced this during their brake job???????!!!!!!
Also.........does anyone know which caliper pin goes on the top of the bracket and which goes on the bottom. I remember reading somewere that the pins are specific to the top hole of the bracket and bottom????

Last edited by vpanin; 08-18-2011 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:17 PM   #2
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You didn't say whether you're doing the front or rear brakes, Vpanin. The parts diagrams don't help a heck of a lot, but here they are:

FRONT
Top: Pin A, Honda p/n 45235-S9A-A01
Bottom: Pin B, 45236-S9A-A01, and bush, 45233-S01-A01





REAR
Top: Pin A, 43235-S84-A51
Bottom: Pin B, 43262-S84-A51




It looks like the upper pins have longitudinal grooves,[edit: flats] and the lowers don't. Can anybody verify that?
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:27 PM   #3
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Unless they were installed clean and dry, and the boots were cracked, the grease would have prevented moisture from entering. The pins don't fit the bore so snuggly that they should be rusted in place. It's more likely that the grease has thickened and is creating a vacuum lock.

Caliper brake cleaner is a better solvent for caliper lube than Liquid Wrench.

Have you attempted twisting them? You can either use the flats on their outboard ends, or thread the mounting bolts back into the pins and use the hex heads with a socket wrench. Another possibility would be to remount the caliper loosely, and work a pry lever between the caliper body flange and the mount.

The front bottom pin have replaceable rubber-like seals near the inboard end. I recall the rear upper pins have a lateral flat. (I service pins one at a time to avoid accidentally switching them.)
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:41 PM   #4
vpanin
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I am doing brakes all around but The pin that is stuck is the one in the front (bottom pin). I actually tried twisting them with a wrench and one foot planted on the Bracket........still nothing. Feels like the damn pin is welded on there. What would be the damage if I just leave it as is?????
I appreciate the diagram ramblerdan

Last edited by vpanin; 08-18-2011 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by vpanin View Post
. . . What would be the damage if I just leave it as is?????
A function of the guide pins on a single piston caliper, is to allow the lateral entering of the caliper over the disc, so the two pads get equal wear.

You say that you tried hitting the pins with a hammer. Was that as if they were nails, or radially on a wrench (as if it were an impact wrench)?

If the caliper body is mounted to it, you can't rotate the pin independent of the body. The flats on the pin and caliper body act as a wrench holding them locked together.

I'd remove the top caliper guide pin, reattach the caliper to the bracket with just the bottom bolt (torque 80 lbf-ft). With the pads out, using the biggest flat screwdriver or brake tool you have, try to pry the caliper away from the top of the bracket, The screwdriver against the bracket will work as a much longer lever than a socket wrench. Try to utilize your body weight to push the screwdriver handle.

If that doesn't work, I'd take the caliper to a automotive machine shop. They may be able to use an pneumatic impact wrench to free it. If they can, they can tell if the caliper bore can be chased, or if the caliper must be replaced.

Last edited by psschmied; 08-18-2011 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:26 PM   #6
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C clamp

Use the same c clamp that you use to push the piston back in the caliper , that should give you a start , then use a 17mm open end to twist the boot , once you get alittle movement then try to pull it out , don't worry , once you get past this point and actually get the pin out (taped goes on top) pack it with brake lube , then take your time , cause sometimes reseating the boot can be a pain !!!! Especially the rear boots ! You CAN NOT leave it like that , the pins act as a piston to set and release the pads while braking ......

Good luck
Guinness

Hey Dan , don't ever recall seeing a bushing on the front pin (lower) ???? I've removed them quite often , now i've got to look !

Last edited by jesbecause; 08-18-2011 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:58 PM   #7
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The pin w/ the "flats" goes towards the top. In the attached pic, the pin to the left is the top pin. *edit*These are from the rear. The fronts are almost identical, but the bottom one has a goofy sleeve around it*

I'm gonna recomend a new bracket and pins. It is very important that those pins move freely to keep the caliper (and pads) from binding against the rotor.

If you get it free and clean out the cylinder section of the bracket and the pin cleans up ok you might be alright. I'm guessing that the pin (and cylinder in the bracket) will likely end up very ugly/corroded/pitted.

To get it apart try mounting the bracket back on the car and using a 17mm wrench on the end of the pin to twist and free it.
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Last edited by ApriliaGuy; 08-19-2011 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 11:11 PM   #8
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Ah, so it's a flat, not a groove. Interesting. If you can turn the pin, what purpose does the flat serve? If you can't turn it, what's the point of having a hex head on it?
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Old 08-18-2011, 11:41 PM   #9
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^I was wondering that myself when I did mine. The C-clamp might work, but what about a torch to heat and expand the metal a bit? just dont fry the boot!
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblerdan View Post
Ah, so it's a flat, not a groove. Interesting. If you can turn the pin, what purpose does the flat serve? If you can't turn it, what's the point of having a hex head on it?
It is meant so you can hold it w/ a wrench while undoing the bolt - not always needed, but when you do need it...
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