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Rear trailing arm bushings... Where to get them ?

76K views 68 replies 25 participants last post by  Alloysnake 
#1 ·
Hello all.

2005 EX 2WD AT.

Got a problem - rear lower arm bushings are done, scary popping noise from the back.
But... these are not the ones that are being sold separately.

This is the one bolt 32 points to -

, the one that fits the arm to the chassis.
According to the dealer, i've got to buy two whole arms (16 and 17 in the picture, $209 each) but i feel kinda stupid to purchase the replacement for a perfectly normal arm.

Here is the guy -


Is there any chance to find just the bushing ?
The closest i got is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-8-304/ which obviously won't fit.

Please help.
Many thanks.
 
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#40 ·
Thanks, I did buy the Roca ones about a month ago, they were in stock then, was just curious what others use, and especially how they perform over time. The Roca bushings I installed on the driver's side last summer are doing fine so far, and the pass side original ones are still silent, but I imagine I will be replacing them in not too distant future - the car has about 170,000 mi on it.
 
#43 ·
So I have the solution to the original posting in regards to the from inner Rear Trailing Arm bushing.
You can order them from a company called PowerFlex located in the UK.
The part number is PFR25-320
They are a polyurethane bushing that was really easy to replace.

I haven't been on the forum in a while and forgot my password + the email account associated to my membership here is out of action so I needed to create a new profile.

Either way, there is an option to replace these bushings without having to buy a whole trailing arm

Cheers
Kamn
 
#46 ·
Febest hab-003

Thanks to all that contributed on this thread! I bought and installed the HAB-003 and HAB-004 from Febest for my rear trailing arms. No problems installing them on my E will all the help from here. They fit perfectly!! The HAB-003 was a little bit of a challenge but I was able to press these in with the various hardware mentioned here (Harbor Freight Ball Joint Tool #63279 and the Schley 68100). After pressing in the rubber, lubricated with silicone, it was time for the "wings". I pressed the inner wing in first by sliding the open end of the C tool over the wing, resting it on the base and having the pin of the wing well greased. The inner portion of the bushing sleeve was protected with a flat cap from the Harbor Freight kit. A Harbor Freight "Earthquake XT" air impact was used and it went in smoothly with little effort. The outer wing was a bit more challenging but the same C tool was used as it barely fit over the non pressed wing. Again, well lubricate the pin on this wing before pressing. The open end of the C tool was cupped over the wing tab on the inner pin then centered over the outer portion of the wing tab you are going to press. Using the air impact gun this side went in just as smooth. I came out with solid new bushings for trailing arms that had nothing else wrong with them, saving myself hundreds in not having to buy a compete trailing arm (400-600) and labor costs (few hundred there too). All for about $77 bucks through the Febest website.
 
#55 ·
Febest hab-003

Thanks to all that contributed on this thread! I bought and installed the HAB-003 and HAB-004 from Febest for my rear trailing arms. No problems installing them on my E will all the help from here. They fit perfectly!! The HAB-003 was a little bit of a challenge but I was able to press these in with the various hardware mentioned here (Harbor Freight Ball Joint Tool #63279 and the Schley 68100). After pressing in the rubber, lubricated with silicone, it was time for the "wings". I pressed the inner wing in first by sliding the open end of the C tool over the wing, resting it on the base and having the pin of the wing well greased. The inner portion of the bushing sleeve was protected with a flat cap from the Harbor Freight kit. A Harbor Freight "Earthquake XT" air impact was used and it went in smoothly with little effort. The outer wing was a bit more challenging but the same C tool was used as it barely fit over the non pressed wing. Again, well lubricate the pin on this wing before pressing. The open end of the C tool was cupped over the wing tab on the inner pin then centered over the outer portion of the wing tab you are going to press. Using the air impact gun this side went in just as smooth. I came out with solid new bushings for trailing arms that had nothing else wrong with them, saving myself hundreds in not having to buy a compete trailing arm (400-600) and labor costs (few hundred there too). All for about $77 bucks through the Febest website.
Hi Tom,
I'm new to this forum. I have been servicing my '03 Element since new and have gone through all of the suspension except the infamous rear trailing arms. I am happy to see your post and would appreciate clarification of one item. I just received the HAB-003 bushings and notice an interference fit between the "wings" and the center of the bushing. Is this what you are referring to when you refer to pressing the wings into the bushing center? I probably will have additional questions but the fit seemed pretty snug with 0.010" to 0.012" of interference. Thanks
Art Kimmel
 
#50 ·
Thank you a million

Was just about to reassemble my entire rear end when I thought I would try (once again) to find a suitable replacement for the trailing arm forward bushing. Landed on this thread and found the Febest model afterwards. Thanks everyone for the contributions through the years! :-D
 
#54 ·
How are they performing? Road noise, vibrations, feel?
So far I haven't noticed any abnormal road noise or any squeaks from using the urethane bushings. The rear suspension also feels nice and tight. Then again, I haven't had a stock suspension in my element for 15 years. I always had a Tein Basic Coilovers until I switched out to a replacement strut/shock with drop springs recently.:-D
 
#58 ·
I’m in the process of dealing with hunting these bushing. I’m waiting for DST/Suspension.com to get back to me. But I know that the RSX Kit #16.3117 has the bushing that is at the front of the Rear LCA. The kit comes with four knuckle bushings but I’m not 100% if those bushings will fit the knuckle for the Element.
The bushings I’m talking about is..
  • #3421 x2
  • #3422 x2
  • #3423 x2
There listed on there website it’s just not bushing they keep in stock. I actually contacted Scott Takata at energy suspension and they did verify that they have them in stock at their warehouse I’m hoping they’re gonna drop ship them to me.

i’ve been pulling my hair out because I don’t wanna be stuck with four bushings I can’t necessarily use when I only know the six 100% fit


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#60 ·
But if I can’t find those I’m going to get the FEBEST HAB-003.

I just personally don’t like the price they’re sold in singles and one side is $28.95. I’m located in Georgia in there in Pompano Beach, Florida So even with free shipping I’m still $57.90 way to much.
The Energy Suspension bushings I mentioned above I think come out to $30.41 for all six of them
 
#62 ·
I just got my Febest bushings today to do my rear lower control arms and HAB-004 does NOT fit my 2007 element EX AWD. I will double check with Febest to see if there could be any mixup but it looks like the inner bore is 12 or 13mm and the factory is definitely a 14mm bolt so it physically cannot fit through the bushing. You guys for sure had HAB-004 fit yours? Febest lists 2003-2011 so there is either a part change not listed or I got a bad batch.
 
#64 ·
I'll be curious how HAB-003 works out for you. On the picture it does not appear to have an outer metal sleeve. The OEM bushing, as I recall, has an outer sleeve that's in two parts half a cylinder each. I wonder if you're supposed to reuse the OEM sleeve with HAB-003.
 
#66 ·
I now have experience with the FEBEST HAB-003. It's basically identical to the OEM bushing. The only difference I can see is the ears(lack of better term) on the FEBEST parts are painted, and the OEM had the yellow/gold anti-corrosive coating. I might post a video of the process later. But, I'm also lazy. I hope this is helpful for those looking to replace the rear trailing arm forward bushing.
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#68 ·
Good to know @Alloysnake , thanks. Was the new bushing hard to press in? I went with Roca, and that one had a solid cylinder outer sleeve (not two halves), which was hard to press in as I recall. I do like the solid cylinder design better, but the OEM one did last for 150K miles, and the one on the pass side is still original with 200K on the clock, so this is only an opinion grounded in theory.
 
#69 ·
It was easy. Though, I do have a press...
I used large channel lock pliers to press the two 'halves' together and get it started. Then I used a press to get it all the way in, though I think that probably wasn't necessary.

I'm not sure if the stock bushing needed replaced, but I was already replacing all the other bushings on the rear, so I thought I'd do these as well to make the rear tight as possible. Out of all the rear bushings, these were the second easiest to extract and install. The rearward RTA bushing being the easiest. The bushings in the knuckle were a PITA to exact, slightly easier than a PITA to install. The knuckle doesn't sit well in the press. I did leave the spindle attached. Not sure if its removal would've made it any easier, though.

Anyhow, I'll see how long the new bushings last...
 
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