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I was ready to try this modification on my 2003 EX with A/T after getting the information on the differences between M/T and A/T Elements...,
But when I read Joel Moore's original tutorial I got confused.

Joel wrote: "This shows the wire connector plugged in. They go into the two slots that are farthest away from you and run crossways to the car, i.e. from side to side. Do not use the two slots that run front to back."

In the photo that Joel used to illustrate that point the jumper appears to be plugged in to slots that run from front to back.

On my car the #3 relay sockets closest to me (and the rear of the car) are "crossways to the car, i.e. from side to side" The slots farther away from me run parallel with the car, or front to back.

My question is: Is the rule I should follow to plug the jumper in the slots that run side to side irregardless of whether they are closer or farther from me?
.....or what?

I do not want to fry any circuits here. Thanks for any help.
 

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braided wire vs. solid wire?

gonna do this mod tonight and had one question re: the 12ga. wire. the small hardware store by my work only had 12ga. solid wire. (yes, insulated, just not braided inside.) so i was wondering if anyone knows if there'd be any difference using 12ga. solid wire vs. 12ga. braided wire??

it only cost me 6 cents for 6 inches, so i'm really not sweating having bought the wrong thing, if that's what it comes down to. i AM, however, sweating blowing up my electrical system.

any input would be greatly appreciated.
 

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ramblerdan said:
Solid conductor will be fine.
extra rock. thanks, ramblerdan.
 

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Help!!!

Hi! I have a tangerine 2006 EX-P 4wd AT and I'm a total klutz. :roll:

I need help!

I tried this mod and it took me a long time because I have the 4wd so there were the extra relay boxes behind the glove compartment and not much room. After I got the first male connector from the homemade connector into the slot, the other switch touched against the little metal thing on the front of the relay box and sparked! I finished installing it, but the rear outlet didn't work at all.

So I pulled the homemade connector out and replaced the relay plugs that were there in the first place. Neither the front nor the rear outlet worked any more even with the car started. I checked the fuses beneath the hood and steering wheel and found that the fuse for the front power outlet (the one under the steering wheel) had blown out, so I replaced that. Now the front outlet works with the car turned on but the rear one still doesn't work at all.

I learned my lesson and know I'm too big a klutz to do this on my own anymore, so my dad said he'd look at it this weekend for me. Does anyone have any ideas or advice on what's wrong with the rear outlet now? I didn't see any other blown fuses. Do you think we need to replace the switch or something? :confused:

I can't afford to take it in to Honda right now, so I'd really appreciate any ideas you have. I feel so bad about hurting my poor car. THANKS!!!!
 

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Suzi,

In the Under-Dash Relay Box, fuse No. 2 (15 amps) powers the rear accessory power outlet, and fuse No. 18 (15A) powers the front socket and the rear socket relay. In the Under-Hood Relay Box, fuse No. 14 (40A) powers fuse No. 2 in the under-dash box, among others. Pull and test fuses to make sure they are not blown. Hope this helps.
 

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2007 rear outlet always on

Has anyone tried this with a 2007? There are 3 relays on the right with a blank and I just wanted to ensure I get the correct one. Thanks.
 

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Celtfire said:
I was ready to try this modification on my 2003 EX with A/T after getting the information on the differences between M/T and A/T Elements...,
But when I read Joel Moore's original tutorial I got confused.

Joel wrote: "This shows the wire connector plugged in. They go into the two slots that are farthest away from you and run crossways to the car, i.e. from side to side. Do not use the two slots that run front to back."
In the photo that Joel used to illustrate that point the jumper appears to be plugged in to slots that run from front to back.

On my car the #3 relay sockets closest to me (and the rear of the car) are "crossways to the car, i.e. from side to side" The slots farther away from me run parallel with the car, or front to back.

My question is: Is the rule I should follow to plug the jumper in the slots that run side to side irregardless of whether they are closer or farther from me?
.....or what?

I do not want to fry any circuits here. Thanks for any help.
No one answered this question and I have the exact same question.
Quoted:
They go into the two slots that are farthest away from you and run crossways to the car, i.e. from side to side. Do not use the two slots that run front to back.

Just as Celtfire, on MY #3 relay the slots farthest away from me run "front to back" which is totally contradicting what's said here. What am I missing?
Thanks
 

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I got it....
I'm having one of those days that I just said the heck with it, hooked it up, reconnected the battery and gambled it was front to back.... it was. Don't know what he's talking about with that front to back/side to side stuff.

It works now,.... that's all I care about.
 

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ramblerdan said:
Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.
Yeah Dan I seen that, thanks. Actually it's what prompted me to just go ahead with the mod inspite of the warning on Joel's site not to use the slots that run front to back. Good instructions there with that one exception. Thanks again.
 

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They go into the two slots that are farthest away from you and run crossways to the car, i.e. from side to side. Do not use the two slots that run front to back.
Joel is referring to the orientation of the connectors' individual slots (which run laterally, or side-to-side), but it's easily confused with the orientation of the pair of connectors (which together are oriented longitudinally, or front-to-back). The most helpful words in the instruction above are "farthest away from you."

I struggled with these descriptions on my page, finally settling on "fore" and "aft" pairs of connectors, since "front" and "back" can also be ambiguous ("front" can mean facing the front of the car, or "front and center," i.e., closest to the observer).
 

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Well done, txbxdrvr, but you may want to remind everyone that BOTH outlets are now being powered through ONE 15-amp fuse (#2).
 

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You are correct BC246T..... This mod is more for low-amperage use like cellphone charging, GPS and other electronic devices.

BTW... Thanks to BC246T for his original post on the front outlet mod - that's what really spurred me on to finally do something.
 

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Not my mod...

Honda Tech said:
I'm sure everyone knows there is a fuse puller stowed in the under-dash fuse panel.
Okay.... I bit and looked real hard - AGAIN. Still didn't find it.:rolleyes:

FWIW - That's your mod... I just took the pics!! :D :D
 
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