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Discussion Starter #1
I want to replace my OEM sub with a 6.5'' kicker sub but they sell two models

the 2-ohm and the 4-ohm...which one i should buy???




Thanks


Bert
 

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It's really not that simple. The factory sub is a dual voice coil unit. IIRC each coil is a 4 ohm coil. Most have had better luck by adding another amp to power the oem sub, or seal off the factory enclosure, replace the sub with an aftermarket unit and use an aftermarket amp to power it.
 

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+1

I didn't mess around with the stock subwoofer but I've seen people on here state that the factory amp wasn't even enough to push the puny stocker.

Are the subs you're looking at single or dual VC? Were you just looking to replace the sub and leave the rest of the stereo OEM?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I forgot to said that i bought another amp,a JL Audio XD600/6 and like others here i bought 4 polk db650s.

The sub i'm looking to buy is a kicker CVT65 300W available in 2 or 4 ohm.



Bert
 

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honestly the stock sub re wired with both voice coils going on an after market hu via the oem amp and the polks wired directly to the hu not the oem amp sound pretty good - to me I went out and purchased some amps and a 6" sub (jl) waiting for a sunny day and no kids to wire it but now im thinking its good as it is ....:twisted:

im not a big boom rattle boom person but i like clear sound with a punchy base and it seems to give me that
 

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I forgot to said that i bought another amp,a JL Audio XD600/6 and like others here i bought 4 polk db650s.

The sub i'm looking to buy is a kicker CVT65 300W available in 2 or 4 ohm.



Bert
Oh, well, then if your amp is a 6 ch. and I believe that amp is...and is only stable to 2ohm per channel, your best bet would be bridge the two channels you plan on using for the sub and run it to a single 4 ohm coil sub. OR.... if you decide on a DVC sub (like something other than the Kicker), get dual 2 ohm coils, run the coils in series creating a single 4 ohm load and bridge the 2 channels to that sub.
 
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