Honda Element Owners Club banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 03 has thrown another 2646, did the usual repair which worked for 3k miles. It’s now back. My question: would swapping to a full synthetic help this, or am I just doomed to always clean the screens every oil change?
 

·
Registered
2008 LX FWD AT
Joined
·
2,526 Posts
How many miles on it? How much junk are you getting in the screens at every oil change? What is your definition of "usual repair"? What weight oil are you running? My 08 had P2646 problems caused by low oil pressure (ever measured yours?). I've been running 5W40 for 1500+ miles when it wouldn't normally tolerate 45 minutes of continuous driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How many miles on it? How much junk are you getting in the screens at every oil change? What is your definition of "usual repair"? What weight oil are you running? My 08 had P2646 problems caused by low oil pressure (every measured yours?). I've been running 5W40 for 1500+ miles when it wouldn't normally tolerate 45 minutes of continuous driving.
How many miles on it? How much junk are you getting in the screens at every oil change? What is your definition of "usual repair"? What weight oil are you running? My 08 had P2646 problems caused by low oil pressure (every measured yours?). I've been running 5W40 for 1500+ miles when it wouldn't normally tolerate 45 minutes of continuous driving.
openly, I ran too long on my last oil change, 4600 miles running valvoline 5w20 synthetic blend high mileage. Did just an oil change hoping it would solve it. I’ll get 36 hours with check engine light, it will go away for 48 then randomly come back for 36 hours again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,605 Posts
I have been on this forum for many years and in my experience aftermarket parts typically do not work right. My Element is super sensitive and I have almost always had to replace aftermarket parts with OEM, especially if it has a sensor in it. Do you still have your original OEM solenoid? Did you first try cleaning the screen and re-inserting old OEM v-tec solenoid before swapping for aftermarket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Don't be a cheap ass. Do an oil/filter change, clear the code. If it returns, get an OEM valve, and junk the Autozone China one.

The non-OEM ones are very spotty on their quality.

FWIW, I run 10-30 oil above 200k on Honda K-series engines.
 

·
Registered
2009 LX, Auto, AWD, Omni Pearl Blue
Joined
·
163 Posts
I’m a bit confused . . . I have an Element with 65,000 miles on it and I prophylactically replaced the screens recently and there was nothing (I mean NOTHING) in the screens. I am pretty confident that the screens had not been examined previously.

If, as you say, you are having to clean the screens every oil change (and the presumption is that there is something there to clean), then your dilemma is much greater than the question of which weight oil to use.

The fact that you had one oil change interval spanning 4,600 miles should be of zero concern. Now, if you did that oil change and had not checked your oil in that 4,600 miles, and you drained out far less than should have drained out, then that should be a concern.

Odds are this engine has not been maintained for a long time and you are now reaping the benefits of poor maintenance.

You need to tell us the full story. Are you the original owner? Do you know this car’s complete maintenance history?

Simply changing the weight of your oil is not going to solve your problem, it’s simply going to allow you to ignore it for some unknown number of miles. Whatever damage is done, is done, and changing the weight of the oil is not going to “fix” the real problem.

That said, if increasing the weight of the oil allows you to drive the car, trouble-free, for another 50,000 miles, then that is your best option--much better than having to rebuild the engine. But that assumes that, in the future, you maintain the car with a quality oil on a regular basis.

Best of luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Second owner to my knowledge. 170k at purchase. It seems to be at least decently maintained. First time the screens were broken/dirty. Replaced and ran like butter until code came back. Second oil change I’ve done, didn’t check the screens, and code comes back intermittently. Was just testing the waters if anyone else has run into this, had suggestions as to why it’s intermittent. My gut is saying it’s the sensor in the new solenoid. It appears Honda has updated it.

as is always, since posting this,code has cleared and it’s running great. Maybe I just needed to threaten it hahahahahaha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Along same lines, I also think I may just be fighting the **** oil/filter from previous over. Planning another change this weekend hoping it just needed a “clean” from original owner. Was also curious if swapping to full synthetic would help as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
This past Spring I bought an element that had 0 maintenance for 100k, with a 2646. It took me 3 attacks of Seafoam, and oil/filter changes, and 2 screen replacements (and cleanings), to get it running properly. To get all the garbage out of the engine triggering the 2646. The oil out of the pan on the first oil change was grizzly, and 1 oil change is not going to fix that.

It is worth mentioning that these cars ARE 15yrs old now, and some of what you are dealing with is deteriorated rubber. Both suspension bushings, and engine seals. Fortunately the screens are pretty cheap, and replacement isn't a huge job, just do it if you haven't already.
 

·
Registered
2008 LX FWD AT
Joined
·
2,526 Posts
With the oil pressure gauge in mine, I can understand why it would be intermittent. Even if the temperature gauge comes up relatively quickly, it seems to take 30+ minutes of driving to get the engine/oil fully up to temperature. I'm basing this on how long before the oil pressure is running about 8 psi at idle; this also corresponds to the time when I see the lowest oil pressure at various engine speeds. So, if you're mostly making short trips, the oil may not thin out enough to trip the code and when you take a longer trip, it might.

If you want a better idea of what's going on, install an oil pressure gauge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,605 Posts
With the oil pressure gauge in mine, I can understand why it would be intermittent. Even if the temperature gauge comes up relatively quickly, it seems to take 30+ minutes of driving to get the engine/oil fully up to temperature. I'm basing this on how long before the oil pressure is running about 8 psi at idle; this also corresponds to the time when I see the lowest oil pressure at various engine speeds. So, if you're mostly making short trips, the oil may not thin out enough to trip the code and when you take a longer trip, it might.

If you want a better idea of what's going on, install an oil pressure gauge.
I could see a cheap/ bad sensor causing intermittent CEL's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update: Did an oil change(valvoline high mileage synthetic blend 5w20) and K&n oil filter. Cleaned both screens. Screen on spool assembly had a crack in the gasket rubber, replaced but spool assembly is still autozone one.
Got to use my buddies obd2 reader after the change, which apparently is more accurate then the free to use one at auto zone. Showing both 2646 and 2647 which leads me to believe it’s the entire assembly not being OEM. Will replace with OEM this weekend and see if that’s the issue. If not, I assume it’s the wiring itself or the oil pump which are beyond me so to Honda it goes!
 

·
Registered
2009 LX, Auto, AWD, Omni Pearl Blue
Joined
·
163 Posts
I think UtahJohn's comments were instructive. I suspect that much of the 2646 issue for all Element owners is due to crap floating around in the engine due to many years of haphazard maintenance. I'm sure the tolerances on the VTEC solenoid (the mechanical part of the solenoid) are pretty tight, as are the tolerances on the VTC shuttle valve. Even the pressure sensors might be compromised by dirt. So any kind of gunk floating around the engine is gong to cause these parts to possibly bind and malfunction, even if partially so. It seems the first step that everyone takes is to start replacing parts when the problem may be less due to parts than due to the state of cleanliness of the engine. Just a thought.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top