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Hey guys,

First off, a disclaimer: I am a backyard mechanic and have no engineering degree, so take all this info with a big ol' grain of salt.

I did a bit more digging today. I brought my spare front struts to the local O'Reilly's and managed to pester an employee there to take some measurements on a CR-V strut. Unfortunately, I was only able to do one side, but the good news is, these things are near identical. I compared Monroe's 72135 (Element) to Monroe's 72143 (CR-V), because these had the biggest discrepancy on the Monroe .PDF. The CR-V shock should have almost an inch taller shock body and 0.5" shorter overall travel. I couldn't measure travel or extended length because new shocks are packaged compressed and I wasn't buying.

(Obviously, the first issue is that I'm not comparing OEM to Bilsteins, but I'm assuming the spec sheet aftermarket manufacturers get is the same across the board.)

After staring at the struts for way too long and getting plenty of weird stares from other customers and employees, here's what I found:

  • I'm pretty sure the Monroe PDF has some error in the listing of this shock, as the measurements don't really line up to what I measured, not to mention the 72143 and 172143 (complete strut assembly) also show different measurements AND shock body type, which is strange. Also, 72143 (Pass. CRV) and 72144 (Driv. CRV) have different shock bodies and slightly different measurements.
  • There were almost NO apparent differences between the two shock bodies.
  • The distance from lower mounting eyelets and spring perch appeared to be near identical (unfortunately it's hard to get exact measurements with the spring perch being so wide)
  • The only noticeable difference I could find was the mounting of the steering arm, which was 0.5" higher on the CR-V strut, but the arms themselves were near identical in length and rise. (this might help with the tie rods hitting the unibody/ needing clearance after a lift.
  • I had a difficult time seeing if the steering arms were actually pointing out at a different angle in relation to the mounting flange, but if there was a difference, it was small. If I stood them up and pointed the arms in the same direction, the mounts also lined up, so I'm assuming they're angled the same.
I'll be uploading some pictures soon, but they might not be incredibly useful. We'll see.

Edit: Here's a link to an imgur album with the strut photos. Obviously, the dirty one is the old Element one, the shiny clean one is the new CR-V one.
 

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i am hoping it handles my load without sagging the rear. thanks for letting me know you wanted to see pictures. made me wonder if my pics were working. figured out that you can't embed photos from google photos into forums. all fixed now with imgur

interesting stuff on the front shocks. you know i was comparing photos of them mounted on the vehicle and it didn't even look close but with them off and on the floor they look almost exactly the same. i will look into this more.
 

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Thanks! Pictures are great. Now how about a time-travel machine set for a year back just before I replaced my rears and put on adjustable upper arms:roll:
 

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partsbin - thanks for the pics. Are you able to share before and after numbers on the rear?

Looks like 4.5" after, so assuming 3.5" before? My starting point is a bit higher, so trying to calculate my end goal with a 1" shock lift.

Ultimately shooting for 5.75" rear gap.
 

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yeah my gap front and back were about the same. i forgot the exact before gap measurements. maybe the rear had a 1/4" more or something small. i just put the measuring tape up to all four gaps real quick before i put it on jacks and thought to myself, i thought these things were supposed to have a rake, wtf. i should of taken more time and pictures before taking things apart.

ok from no lift to 1" lift with these shocks if u start from stock height. our suspension moves on a some sort of curve so the lift ratio changes as the height changes. so if you already have a lift i don't know the exact lift you might see with these shocks. could be less or more i forget which way it goes. i hope i made sense haha
 

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yeah my gap front and back were about the same. i forgot the exact before gap measurements. maybe the rear had a 1/4" more or something small. i just put the measuring tape up to all for gaps real quick before i put it on jacks and thought to myself, i thought these things were supposed to have a rake, wtf. i should of taken more time and pictures before taking things apart.

ok from no lift to 1" lift with these shocks if u start from stock height. our suspension moves on a some sort of curve so the lift ratio changes as the height changes. so if you already have a lift i don't know the exact lift you might see with these shocks. could be less or more i forget which way it goes. i hope i made sense haha
No worries, thanks for the info. Yes its making sense. I'm having to triple read all the posts to make sure I didnt miss anything.

I'm currently not running any lift in the rear but of course want to, but also solve the rear sag and keep axle angles in check. So I figured a 1.5 to 2" rear lift would be ideal.

With a 1" shock lift, and add on a .25 - .375" top hat spacer that should get you right there. There is just enough thread on the top hat to sneak in a small spacer for that little extra. Been thinking about ways to approach this for quite a while...

Big Thanks to Cursh and Novasteve too!
 

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5/8" spacer will give you 1" of lift is what i know from personal experience. i have read 1" spacer will give you 1.6" of lift. sparman had a 1.5" spacer and he had 2.5" of lift i believe, not 100% on that.

the ebay aero? kits come in 2" front and 1" rear for a level 2" of lift they say. or the 1" front and 1" rear for a rake look. i think if you add the 2" level kit to this rear shock you will get a rake at maybe 2.25"-3". dunno no experience there all theory. i dont know which way it curves. if it curves on the less side like at 2.25" maybe the 1.5" front would work better so you can have a rake to absorb some of that sag loaded. they just released that if i remember right. im thinking about this stuff too
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Yeah - all my numbers are off everyone else because I think the bigger spring stock on the custom springs doesn't fit into the spring perches in the same way/adds a little extra space.

I had a 2" compressed spring add which should be 3"-3.5" based on everyone else measurements and I ended up with closer to 4.25" extra height. (over front height. I also didn't measure before, but had a lot of negative rake spring sag to make up for.)

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ probably shouldn't even have shared those data points, lol.
 

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ok, my driver's side front is bottoming out ez so im thinking of new shocks for the front now. i might take a gamble with bilstein fronts after checking out novasteve's shock comparison photos. not sure yet. this time if i change out the front i want to lift it too so wanted some thoughts on if the crv will give me a height change. doesn't seem like it would as the only difference i can see is the steering arm height.

my plan, throw in a 1.5" spacer in the front and 10mm spacer in the rear. the 10mm should put me higher than 1.5" as i already got 1" from the shock. so as long as the front bilstein shock doesn't lower or higher the ride height my plan should work out. 1.5-1.75" front and 2-2.5" rear total lift. top of fender to center wheel hub measurements goal
front 18.5"
rear 19.25"
current
front 17"
rear 18.375"

deezy, do you know exactly how much spacer the stock rear top hat studs can take? i am hoping a 10mm will fit...like .4" what you think?

novasteve, are you 100% sure the parts guy gave you the correct strut to compare to yours?

haha, found out that the fronts are at least 221 per side. i can get them for 420 out the door but this might have to wait until my fronts leak
 

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anyone coming across this might wonder why do all this? why not just use the coilovers? 2 reasons really, bilsteins shocks and articulation. i am pretty sure the stock spring coils will articulate much better than the coilover springs. if anyone has numbers for the wheel travel for the bc coil overs vs the stock springs, i'd like to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
woof. I dunno. I was looking at mine when I was considering spacers or springs and I think I only saw 3-4 threads sticking above the nut. That's only 4-6mm of wiggle room before you start losing purchase on your nut. I'm not enough of an engineer to know when that starts making a big enough difference to matter. I could also measure the monroe replacement top hats I have here because those threads looked longer (I think I paid $17 a pop.)
 

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I measured a little over 1" stud on the top hat. And then the nut was a little over .50".

So if you left 1 thread above the nut, you'd still have approx .400" of space to play with.

I'd typically be leary of 1 thread above the nut, but seeing how its 1.25mm pitch with about 10 full threads fully engaged..I'd feel confident in that.

Another option would be to get a reduced height nut for more thread above.
 

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thanks for that. yep, saw only a few threads above the nut. yep the stock nut has a built in washer or something and that makes it taller than a standard nut.

i need at least 10mm's in spacer so probably can't use stock studs. gonna have to hammer out the old studs and hammer in some longer ones.
 

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Is there going to be a final parts list and write up? So much info needs to be condensed bad ?
 

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everyone is trying different things I think. parts depend on what you are trying to do to your particular e. in past threads on this forum it was said that crv bilsteins will not work so this thread is like a work in progress. stack info into it as we figure things out.
 

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at20rule

Any word on the Tundra shocks or anything that gives me more weight carrying ability for the camping gear, skid plates and, offroad bumpers. That is other than the BC coils
 

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No worries, thanks for the info. Yes its making sense. I'm having to triple read all the posts to make sure I didnt miss anything.

I'm currently not running any lift in the rear but of course want to, but also solve the rear sag and keep axle angles in check. So I figured a 1.5 to 2" rear lift would be ideal.

With a 1" shock lift, and add on a .25 - .375" top hat spacer that should get you right there. There is just enough thread on the top hat to sneak in a small spacer for that little extra. Been thinking about ways to approach this for quite a while...

Big Thanks to Cursh and Novasteve too!
There is a post on here about using the crv read shocks and springs with the element top hat. This gives a stiffer rear with a 1-inch lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #59
OK. I hopped on the phone with Rocky road outfitters and they said they were just beefier G2 shocks from KYB. They are basically just OE quality struts, so I'm heading for the Bilsteins. I suspect that my extra 2-3" of spring would put these out of the appropriate range just like my stock shocks (which I'm pretty sure were Midas brand from the P.O.)

What I'm going to do (with my weird ass springs) is pick up some of these (00-06 tundra fronts) and add a few grooves to level out the spring height. Hypothetically I'll be able to lift it an inch (for towing) pretty easily? I'll see what happens when everything gets here. I've got an appointment with a shop to toss them on Monday of next week. I'm very much looking forward to having rear shocks again.

My only concern heading into this is that the strut body is an extra 2.1" longer than the factory strut. I've added 1.75" subframe spacers, which should eat up most of that, but I'd hate to have these things bottom out.

Will report with photos.

cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Here's the new grooves. We added one 3" down and one 2.5" down. The higher one will add about an inch of lift. I don't think I'm ever going to use it. If I had a mcphearson spring compressor maybe I could compress the springs on the car enough to pop that circlip up to the next notch.... I also assume that owning a suburban means that less stupid things will end up behind Miss Fitz. than would previously. (see 27ft airstream photos somewhere else on this site)

The tundra rear eyelet is a 1/4” narrower than the Element, CRV. I’m just making some delrin fender washers out of some stock I’ve got laying around. That’s the only issue I’ve noticed so far. Fingers crossed.

201962

201961


 
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