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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my wife drives a 03 element. Last summer i replaced a radiator fan thinking it was going bad because the radiator fan fuse kept blowing. Everything seemed ok up until this summer when it started blowing fuses again. I thought the fan felt a little sluggish so i replaced it again thinking it was just bad bearings. Long story short that didn't solve the problem.

For more info the AC blows cold as long as the car is moving. When idle it stops blowing cold and when idling to long starts to over heat. Over that last 7 years I have successfully repaired all car troubles but I feel like I might be out of my depth with this one. Maybe bad wiring somewhere? Short? Let me have it. Need the help to keep some money.
 

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07 2wd 5-speedauto
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Measure current draw of the offending fan motor.

Don't guess, or estimate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Already replaced it (again) assuming the motor was bad. Should i still measure that and would i jumper the fan at the relay and measure the amps at the battery?
 

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to measure amps, you need to either:
1) interrupt (temporarily) the circuit to the fan motor so that a meter can be inserted (in series)
or
2) use an inductive coupling with a meter on the wire going to the fan.
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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Just so we're all on the same page, in Honda speak the 'radiator' fan is the drivers side on fuse #4 and the 'condenser' fan is on the passenger side on fuse #1. A fairly simple way to measure the current drains for the fans is to pull the appropriate relay and put the ammeter (with a 20 or 30 amp DC capacity) across the contact terminals for that relay, NOT the coil terminals. This works because in these cases, only the fan is on that circuit. I use a set of modified spade lugs on insulated wire with alligator clips to the meter for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
More info.
So I loaded up to go to the auto parts store thinking they would have an amp reader. Had put a fresh fuse in. Doesn't blow on startup. Drive to Oriely's and check the fuse when I get into the parking lot. Fuse blown kind of expected that. Changed the fuse out and started the car. I turned the AC up to max and sat there for 15 min. No blown fuse. But I noticed that the compressor is cycling on and off within 5 secs. Now I can only tell this at a stop so I dont know if it is doing this when im driving. My next question is can my compressor running funny cause the #4 fuse fan to blow or are the unrelated? Also does the sound like low coolant for the compressor?
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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Can't speak to the coolant charge, given the cycling it would make sense to have it checked by someone with gauges and AC savvy if it hasn't been. The fuses for the fans are completely separate from anything else. #4 runs the driver side fan only and #1 the passenger side fan only.
A quiet plug here:-D for the electrical troubleshooting manual, available inexpensively in digital format as a package with the service manual (Bishko brand) from RockAuto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So update. Pulled an amp reading on the radiator fan. It reads normal operation around 9 to 10 amps when running. I also got 2 new relays to jump play around with. checked the radiator fan relay and it is fine.

We had also had some problems with the compressor having a quick cycle time. It turns on and then off within 5 secs. So we used the new relays and replaced RL1 and RL4. We picked up a charging kit from autozone and checked the gauge. It was reading low. So we added. Seemed to be charging. After doing that the cycle time still sucks. At this point we decide to call it a night. Since last night I have driven the car for more distance than normal before it pops and everything works great minus the ac.

My question is can the compressor not cycling properly cause the radiator fan to jump on and off too much causing an overload of the fuse? When the fan is running it holds at 10 amps no problems and has yet to bust since discontinuing use of the ac.
 

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07 2wd 5-speedauto
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Questions,
When you measured the amps, the fan running is the one you replaced?

What is the fuse rated at?

I don't have a schematic at home for your year, will take a look on Monday.

My 07 manual shows fuse 4 20 Amp supply's power to the driver side fan motor, nothing else is on that circuit. So either the power wire blue/black color is rubbing on a ground or the fan motor is drawing too much, is there anything that could be rubbing on the fan to overload it?

Doubt having the compressor cycling would pop the fan fuse.

When it cycles what is the current draw?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
1. The amp reading is on the radiator fan I replaced. It consistently only draws 9 to 10 amps.

2. The fuse is rated at 20amps.

3. When the fan first kicks on there is a amp spike above 20amps for a second.
 

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MM 2005 EX, AT southwest WI
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aaah, With that startup current, there is a possibility of some interaction. First, that fan run current seems totally normal, I've read 12 amps also, can't find the ref again at the moment.

Let's assume that the car is running at a normal temperature and AC is off. Both fans are off. Now, let's get the AC running (car temp still normal to cool) and the compressor doing the cycling dance. Are both fans cycling on and off with the AC compressor? If so, the 20A startup current pulses are coming every 5 seconds or so and the averaged current draw may be enough to blow the 20A fuse. The fuse that runs the condenser fan is a 30A fuse, again with nothing on that fuse except the fan. Are the current draws of the fans that much different? I don't know, you could measure that one for comparison.

Make any sense?

As an aside, when I've seen cycling in my admittedly limited AC experience it has been overcharging rather than under. An AC guy could quickly check the high side pressure as well as the low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
new info on ac...

A/C compressor runs fine with pressure staying within optimal range. Compressor at this point seems to be functioning. After a while I could see the pressure rising on the gauge to where eventually it got to the red and then started cycling. Its as if over time the low pressure is slowly building.
 

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07 2wd 5-speedauto
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Interesting...

General rule of thumb is. whatever the fuse is rated at, the normal draw is 1/2 of the fuse rating. So you seem to be ok there.
The current spike to 20 is not that far off for an electric motor start up. I would expect 15. Also fuses do not pop at exactly the rating usually higher. I've tested this a few times.

Is this a honda genuine part or aftermarket?

I can get a current reading of mine to compare to on monday.

If your positive the feed is not shorting to ground, then the only thing it can be is the fan motor.
 
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