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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I once was thoroughly immersed in car audo, but lost my way. The discussions here have prompted me to get back in the mix.

Question: a/d/s and Boston Acoustics' used to be held in high regard. Does that still hold true? I've seen little to no reference to their products here.

Just want to make sure I'm not wasting my time or money if other manufacturers have surpassed them in terms of quality per dollar.
 

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Wooderson,

Yes - a/d/s and BA are still held in high regard in car audio - it's just that some of the newer names have stolen the spotlight from them a bit.

Have these newer manufacturers surpassed them? Probably either a little or not at all. At the high end of car audio - unless you have a really good ear - it's very hard to hear any major sound quality difference. To me, after a certain sound quality point and dollar amount - I start looking closely at how well the speakers are made and how long they'll stay sounding good. :D

I used to be a huge MB Quart advocate until they dropped thier good crossovers and tweeters for less expensive, more easily mass-produced materials but most people would hardly be able to tell the difference anyway (unless you were used to the old ones).

Its been said that what ruins car stereo manufacturers is success - once they get big the quality usually drops in order to max profits. This phenomenon has not been the case with a/d/s although I've heard folks grumbling about BA price to quality ratios a bit in recent years.

Currently - I really like the mid and upper end of what Focal has to offer but they're really expensive and their low end products are not so hot. For pure bang for the buck quality and performance the hot speakers right now are Crystal Mobilesound - check this post for info: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2835

If you're looking fo absolutely no compromise speakers and are willing to pay for it - CDT Audio is the current champ in my book. These speakers are truly phenominal in every category, sound quality, build quality, and performance. Check this post for info: http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2879

IMHO - a/d/s and BA fall into roughly the same area as the Focal mid range stuff in terms of price/performance. I'd place the Crystal and mid-range MB Quart stuff below that and the CDT Audio above all else.

But keep it all in perspective - this is all good stuff. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. It's tough to tell with all the information out there nowadays. I'm particularly intriqued by the "fun-with-numbers" that many manufacturers use to confuse the masses. It was much easier (but costly) when there was only a few premiere players.

If you have time, I'd appreciate your thoughts on the following setup:

JL Audio VR separates up front;
JL Audio 8" or 10" sub;
JL Audio 300/4 amp.

I figured I could dedicate 75 X 2 to the separates, and 150 X 1 to the sub. Later, with the appropriate spousal consent of course, I could add TR coaxials to the rear and run 75 X 4, and a dedicated amp to the sub.

By the way, do you have any idea what size amp will fit under the front seats? Based upon the pictures of your system, I figure you're the most likely to know.
 

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[quote:22697b3157="wooderson"]Thanks for the info. It's tough to tell with all the information out there nowadays. I'm particularly intriqued by the "fun-with-numbers" that many manufacturers use to confuse the masses. It was much easier (but costly) when there was only a few premiere players.

If you have time, I'd appreciate your thoughts on the following setup:

JL Audio VR separates up front;
JL Audio 8" or 10" sub;
JL Audio 300/4 amp.

I figured I could dedicate 75 X 2 to the separates, and 150 X 1 to the sub. Later, with the appropriate spousal consent of course, I could add TR coaxials to the rear and run 75 X 4, and a dedicated amp to the sub.

By the way, do you have any idea what size amp will fit under the front seats? Based upon the pictures of your system, I figure you're the most likely to know.[/quote:22697b3157]

OK. :D

I like the sub choice - be sure to get a dual voice coil model so you can run it at 2 ohms and consider a 12" model especially if you'll only run 1 sub (the E has a big, hollow cabin). The 12W3 V2 at around $175 is a good choice for this application.

On the separates - JL is good but for the money you'll spend on the VR separates - I'd recommend the Crystal Mobilesound component set I mentioned above instead.

On the amp - JL makes GREAT amps but they're BIG. The best you can do size-wise under the seats is about 11" X 11" and the JL 300/4 is like 13.5" x 9.25" - although you might somehow be able to get it to fit with a little effort.

I'm in the minority on this but - I like the new line of MTX amps - they're smallish at less than 10" X 10" inexpensive, and they have a nice clean sound quality. The D class amps pack over 400 watts into the same size and are also inexpensive. So for the $400 you might spend for a JL 300/4 - I'd recommend 2 MTX amps - one under each seat:

1. $180 MTX Thunder 342 - 2 X 85 @ 4 ohms for the front components
2. $210 MTX Thunder 421D - 1 X 420 @ 2 ohms for the sub.

Sure, you'll spend a little more on installation and materials for two amps but the end result is really great plus the sub won't overdraw on your front speakers potentially like if they were being run off the same amp. Not to mention the fact that and you can tune the amps and set crossovers with more flexibility.

The JL TR coaxials are a great choice for the rear fill and I would recommend that you simply run them off of the the head unit power and fade them down so they don't interfere too much with the front soundstage.

Hope this helps. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
eMass,

Thanks again for the sound advice (double entendre intended). Since you have unwittingly been dubbed the crown prince of EOC audio, please allow me to barrage you with additional questions (feel free to ignore them if you have neither the time nor patience):

Question 1: I can't find the MTX 342 or 421D on the MTX website. Have these models been replaced?

Questions 2: Is the JL W7 complete overkill, or what? Looks bada$$ (with the emphasis on $$), but it seems that the speaker and box would weigh 60 lbs.

Question 3: I considered the CDT braxials, and then I'd use a circular cutting bit on my drill to make a small hole in the front grills for the tweeter to stick out. Am I insane?

Question 4: I assume you side with those who favor rear fill?

Question 5: In what sort of applications is a capacitor necessary or justified?

I'll shut up now.
 

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[quote:c631190bb3="wooderson"]eMass,

Thanks again for the sound advice (double entendre intended). Since you have unwittingly been dubbed the crown prince of EOC audio, please allow me to barrage you with additional questions (feel free to ignore them if you have neither the time nor patience):

Question 1: I can't find the MTX 342 or 421D on the MTX website. Have these models been replaced?[/quote:c631190bb3]

Dunno why you're having a hard time - they're both right on thier web site, try this page: http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/index.cfm

Questions 2: Is the JL W7 complete overkill, or what? Looks bada$$ (with the emphasis on $$), but it seems that the speaker and box would weigh 60 lbs.
It's probably overkill unless you have a really good amp and are planning on trying to knock down some sound pressure level records. :lol:

Question 3: I considered the CDT braxials, and then I'd use a circular cutting bit on my drill to make a small hole in the front grills for the tweeter to stick out. Am I insane?
Absolutely insane! :D Stealth is a good thing! Just get the component set - it's really the same thing as the component set with the tweeter mounted right on the speaker. And it's about the same price as the component set anyway.

Question 4: I assume you side with those who favor rear fill?
Rear fill certainly has it's place - especially in a vehicle that has a cabin as big and sparse as the Element. Just fade those rear fill speakers down a litlle so they won't interfere with the front soundstage. I prefer to use mid-bass speakers without tweeters (read: coaxials) so they don't compete with the front highs. In fact, I have cut the wires going to the tweeters on my rear fill JL's specifically for this purpose.

Question 5: In what sort of applications is a capacitor necessary or justified?
IMHO - almost never in moderate to low end systems. On the high end systems though if it's designed properly with the right alternator and battery there really should be no need for a cap. However, in certain conditions where a high output alternator cannot be used - a capacitor can help your amps provide the power they need even during the most challenging musical transients (read: bass heavy). In case you're wondering, my system does not have one and I haven't seen the need to add one.

I'll shut up now.
Good! (just kidding) :lol:
 

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Hey I used Boston Acoustics in my E and I am Stoked on the sound quality. I used the entry level FS60 Componet set in factory locations($199.95). For the rear fill (or back speakers) I used Boston NX60 two-way speakers($149.95). I also used the new Boston Acoustic amplifiers in my set-up. For the Highs I used a GT-40 four channel amp. As for the woofers I believe I might have one the most ground-pounding E's out there. I am currently running With four Powerbase X-treme 12" subs. Those are ran with a Boston Acoustics
GT-28 Amplifier that produces about 1250 Watts. I need to get some pics out there so people can see this system. I was afraid that the entry level Boston speaks couldn't hang with the amount of bass, but the do very well.
Hope that helps you out!
Audiohabitat
 
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