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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pulled vacuum on AC, added part of one can of R134a and that was it. No progress, no AC Compressor running.

Removed AC Relay under the hood relay box (driver's side) and used a set of small curved needle nose pliers to jumper the two connectors that the COPPER blades on the relay matched up with. See a small spark and hear AC Compressor kick in and the idle drop noticeably.

...and the system started taking refrigerant again.

Topped up the system until it seemed okay and started to provide cold air. 70F outside, about 175psi on the high side.

Shut it all down and removed the lines from the low side and then from the high side and WHOOSH!!!! Refrigerant leaking like mad. I grabbed set of forceps within reach (I had leather gloves on because...SAFETY) and tried to pop and reseal the internal shrader valve, but no joy.

Looked up the valve core for AC on Autozone, but found multiple styles. So here is the one I used, which was a perfect match for the original. FYI- the 4 pack is about 60% the price of the single. LOL.

I replaced the Valve Core and pulled another vacuum. I then added R134a again. I did NOT ADD ANY OIL. I didn't replace any components and didn't have any on hand. Everything I read is it is "ok" if not replacing parts (??)

I had reinstalled the AC relay the first time after pressure was up high enough, but the compressor wouldn't kick on with the relay. I tried one of the relays from another spot (behind the horn relay) and the compressor immediately kicked on. So I bought a new relay. They really saw me coming at $16, but I was thankful they had it in stock.

Here are some part numbers and pics from Autozone. I searched this site before ordering the valve core, but had to order two different types as I was unsure of the type. So now you know ;) Make sure you have a valve core tool on hand if you need to change it. Mine came out easily using a pair of straight picks in just the right configuration.

Hope this helps someone stay cool!

210440


Original:
210441



Relay:
210442


Original:
Rectangle Gas Font Office equipment Box
 

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Hi,
Trying to remember, but from my reading on Honda AC Systems...

The relay is a problem that occurs frequently and one of the first things suggested to check in a system that quits working.

Thanks for the info, I decided to get into the AC side of things because of what the Mechanics want to charge.

To much money to my mind for what is done, but...
 

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I have not seen this valve core info before, thanks for letting us know!...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi,
Trying to remember, but from my reading on Honda AC Systems...

The relay is a problem that occurs frequently and one of the first things suggested to check in a system that quits working.

Thanks for the info, I decided to get into the AC side of things because of what the Mechanics want to charge.

To much money to my mind for what is done, but...
Thanks for the reply and kind words

After investing in vacuum pump and gauge set and can piercing valve, it's pretty cheap to work on most AC problems. It just takes time and troubleshooting.

I think the relay I used for testing (just behind the big yellow horn relay) is for Condenser Fan, but couldn't find a decent pic and labeled diagram to post. I only used it for testing, so maybe 3 mins or so while testing dash switch, etc.

In retrospect, I SHOULD have checked the compressor was running before anything else. But if the refrigerant charge is too low, it won't run anyways.

I don't have a sniffer, so actually fortunate the leak was so pronounced at the high side port. The caps are supposed to be the final seal, so we need to be sure to have good sealing caps, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have not seen this valve core info before, thanks for letting us know!...
Sure thing. Trying to research doesn't result in anything definitive. Some links show replacing the entire fitting (I don't think ours comes off), some have custom or different sized valve cores, even BB stores list 2 very different valve cores when searching by specific vehicle.

Only way to know for sure is to change it. Or find someone who has and documented it.

I couldn't find what I needed when searching, so hopefully this will show up for the next guys who need it.

Thanks for the reply and kind words
 

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Great job and yes, thanks for posting! Part numbers are helpful!
 

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The caps are supposed to be the final seal, so we need to be sure to have good sealing caps, too.
The caps are just dust caps. They will not seal 200psi, they’d blow right off.

Good job though, that’s why I got into it, too much money. The problem is finding someone to take your spent R-134a if you actually end up removing any. Most shops look at you like you have 5 heads and 7 tails when you ask for them to take your refrigerant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The caps are just dust caps. They will not seal 200psi, they’d blow right off.

Good job though, that’s why I got into it, too much money. The problem is finding someone to take your spent R-134a if you actually end up removing any. Most shops look at you like you have 5 heads and 7 tails when you ask for them to take your refrigerant.
Thanks. I was surprised about the caps being a required sealing component, but do a search and find many AC shops saying the same thing. Here's one.

Service Port Caps—Small but Powerful – FJC Inc
 
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