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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Some of you may know that I had chimed in on the "cheap fog lights" thread a while back, and I had promised to keep everyone updated. Sorry for the delay. They've been working fine up up to now, though I did notice some condensation collecting behind the lenses on some rainy days, so that's not too promising. I might try to smear a bit of silicone sealant into the edge of the lenses to see if that helps sealing.

At this point, I've had the install done for a month or so, sourcing OEM-style parts to make it a perfect retrofit into the existing wiring harness. No splicing or cutting of the OEM wiring was necessary to do this install, and it installs identical to factory (once prepped).
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Aftermarket Fog Light Install - OEM-style Retrofit

For the most part, I followed the OEM installation instructions found here. This tutorial is really focused around the relatively simple modifications to the wiring harness that is included with the Winjet/CCIYU fog light kit. You will need some basic soldering/crimping skills for the connectors.

This ONLY applies to '07-'08 years, currently. If I get the right information from other users, I can update methods for other years, as I know 03-06 used a different harness, and I'm unsure about '09-'11.

First, this tutorial is using this Fog Light Kit

Additional Parts You Will Need:

Switch:


  • OEM Honda headlight fog light combination switch - 35255-S5K-F12 - Pilot Element Fit (you can usually find a few of these on ebay for $40-60)


Connectors Needed:

  • Engine bay connection - Sumitomo HD 250 Unsealed 1 pin male - PN 6098-0232
    (Ordered a 5-pack of these off Alibaba)
  • Interior fuse box connection - Sumitomo HD 250 Unsealed 1 pin female - PN 6098-0234
    (These can usually be sourced from the original engine-side fog light wiring on a donor vehicle, ironically)
  • Interior blue-taped hidden connection - Sumitomo HD 090 Unsealed 3 pin female - PN 6098-0241
    (These are pretty common behind the dash and door panels of most Honda vehicles)
I was able to find the female interior fuse box connector, as well as the female-side interior blue-taped hidden connector at the local pick and pull from a 1st gen CR-V and an early 2000's accord. I'm sure they are plentiful on other Hondas and Acuras. I was NOT able to find the engine-side male connector anywhere, and ended up ordering a 5-pack (with terminals) off of Alibaba for ~$5 shipped.

Wiring Harness Modifications

These modifications will help you get from this mess:


To this OEM-style hotness:


From here on out, modification will ONLY be made to the harness in the fog-light kit.

Engine-side kit harness:
  • Pretty simple. The kit comes with a barrel connector at the end of the positive cable (blue, in this case) that leads to the fog-light plugs. Use PN 6098-0232 terminal and connector here.
    Before (with crude smashing of barrel terminal to test connection)


    After

  • The ground (black) wire comes with a ring terminal, leave that as-is. Install according to factory directions.
Dash-side (Interior) kit harness

This is where things get a bit more involved, but still relatively simple.

First, we will be doing away with all of this on the kit harness:


Also, there is a lot of excess wire that comes in the harness. I temporarily installed the relay in the stock location (found in the OEM instruction PDF) with a spare bolt/nut I had so I could route the kit harness to the proper locations and get an idea of how much I could cut off. This will get you closer to OEM lengths and tidiness.

The only connections we will be dealing with on the fog light kit interior harness are +12V power coming from the fuse box (thicker red wire), the power for the included relay (black wire from relay with ring terminal end, yellow wire from the relay the led to original kit switch connector), and +12V through the relay (thick blue wire from relay).

Fuse Box Connection - +12V - Thick red wire
The first and easy connection is the +12V from the fuse box. Cut the barrel connector off, and replace it with PN 6098-0234 on the end of the wire.



(Even though I sourced a pigtail from the Pick and Pull, the engine side fog light wiring is a much smaller gauge than the power wire on the kit harness, so I sourced a new metal terminal to crimp on the wire and then insert into the connector, so there wouldn't be a gauge discrepancy)

3-Terminal Hidden Blue-Taped Connection
The three connections being made at this connector (in order from left to right looking at the clip side of the plug, facing you are:
  • Relay +12V (yellow)
  • Relay -12V (ground, black)
  • Battery Power +12V (From Fuse Box, thick blue)



(I sourced a pigtail from a donor car, so I spliced these wires together. If you buy a new connector with terminals, just crimp the terminals on and insert into the new connector housing)

The order of the wires is obviously important, so double check your work!

Once these modifications are done, you'll be able to plug in the harness as noted in the OEM Fog Light Installation Instruction PDF! I then mounted the relay as close to the intended OEM position using a spare nut/bolt.

After that, installation of the fog light assemblies and associated bumper cutting, as well as the sourced fog light turn signal stalk you bought are exactly as OEM.

 
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that is nice. you should buy a bunch of the same fog lights and put together wiring harnesses and sell the package to us for 100$. then we just buy the combo switch and install. i'd buy one from you. you won't have to ship to me either, i can pick it up from you. haha

i'd like some smoke or yellow fog lights if winjet makes em.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've thought about doing something like that. If there's enough interest, I can look into doing that.
 

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Highmotherfu58’nfive

Great writeup! Adding this to my to do list. Thanks for the excellent photos and documentation..
 

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Looks great! Does anyone have a pic of the fog light plugs down below the bumper? I replaced my bumper recently and don't recall seeing any plugs down there.
 

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Looks great! Does anyone have a pic of the fog light plugs down below the bumper? I replaced my bumper recently and don't recall seeing any plugs down there.
The connectors for the foglights are part of an additional harness that is added if you buythe Honda Acessory fog light kit. It plugs in behind the bumper on the drivers side.

See step #9 here:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/element/elementfogs.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #7


This pic shows the OEM Fog Light plug that comes from the factory, and is on every Element (actually most Honda's from what I've found). It's tucked up just in front of the driver's fender well liner, and taped (with blue tape) to the ABS sensor harness. There's is an additional harness section that comes with the fog light kit(s) that plugs into this connector, which gets routed across the front upon installation, and then leads to two fog light assembly plugs (one for each fog light).
 

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Thanks Novasteve74. For some reason, I find it fascinating that Honda would stash these plugs away hidden in a fender for potential use some day.
 

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Thanks Novasteve74. For some reason, I find it fascinating that Honda would stash these plugs away hidden in a fender for potential use some day.
I'm 90% sure that the only "some day" was so that they could option them up on the lot when they were new. Only install the fog lights in the ones where someone has already paid for it.

way better cash flow/ it's hard to undo if someone doesn't want to pay for them.
 

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honestly, I just got the fogs and I'd be willing to pay you to not have to figure it out myself...


Or give you money for the extra bits you have in some sort of kit form (I have so much wire here, I just don't feel like scouring a pull a part to find something if you've got a spare.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
honestly, I just got the fogs and I'd be willing to pay you to not have to figure it out myself...


Or give you money for the extra bits you have in some sort of kit form (I have so much wire here, I just don't feel like scouring a pull a part to find something if you've got a spare.)
I can certainly work with you to get you a suitable solution. One thing to note is your model year. The wiring inside the vehicle will be a little different, as 03-06 used a similar push-button like the one that comes in the kit, rather than the turn signal stalk switch, and you should have an open slot next to the cruise button for that switch. I should be able to work out how the wiring goes to get similar functionality (only on w/ headlights, no high beam etc.) but I don't think the wiring in the column will be present to go to the turn signal stalk, unfortunately. I could be wrong though. At the very least, I should be able to help you out with some connectors.
 

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Yeah - I just realized that while re-reading everything. I think I'll have to do some figuring either way. I found the stalk + steering wheel spool + intermittent wiper stalk for $70 shipped, so I'll have 90% of what I need when it all gets here. I'll just take it from there. (also, my harness looks a little different than yours.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On another note, I'm happy to report that after bringing my E to the manual car wash yesterday, there was no water intrusion into the fog lights after blasting them directly with a power washer. Sure, that's not full submersion, but it's a sign that the gasket fix did at least a decent job.

Here's a recap of my response to the fog light sealing in the previous thread:

First and foremost, the instructions (or what they provide as instructions) DO have Winjet (the infamous fish tank fog lights) printed on it in the corner, so I'm going to assume these are also Winjet lights. I almost closed the box right up and sent them back, but being the tinkerer that I am, I wanted to have a look at this sealing problem that had been mentioned in reviews.

It's pretty obvious as to WHY they don't seal. There's a metal back plate to each light (what you would remove were you to need a bulb replacement) held on by 5 screws. Inside of this plate, there is a rubber gasket that seals along the inside edge of the housing and around each of the 5 screws. It is OBVIOUS that the manufacturing plant torques the heck out of these tiny screws during assembly, which in turn warps the rubber gasket and pulls the gasket away from the inside edge of the housing, leading to obvious water intrusion. If you look carefully, you might even be able to see the issue without taking it apart. To remedy this, all I did was unscrew the back plate and simply give the rubber gasket some time to retake it's shape and formed it a little with my hands. Once the gasket was the proper shape to match the mating surface, I assembled everything back together without going ape on the screws, tightening in the 5 star pattern (like the lugs on your wheels) and not overtightening. I also went a step further and grabbed some high-tack gasket sealant and applied a veeeery light coat with a toothpick to the inside edge of the housing and a tiny bit on the outside edge of the gasket, which should help the two surfaces stick together during assembly and keep the screws from torquing the gasket around. Hopefully this takes care of the water intrusion part.

Granted, I haven't installed them yet, but I will be sure to report back once I do and again after I get some rain or drive through some puddles.
 

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hey steve, i have a 2007 and planning to do this soon. gonna visit the pick n pull to score the connectors and the combo switch from pilots or other hondas. if i fail, can i buy the connectors from you too?
 

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I'm bowing out of needing the spare connectors.

I found a male/female 2 pack for $6 on alibabaexpress and don't think I need the 3 pin with the older model (05).

I'll likely have to do some splicing or swapping of wires in the X and M connectors, but I'm waiting until have the stalk to test continuity.

I kinda want to reuse the factory fog light switch for work lights if I get them.
I'll post up the how to on the early models. My electronics book says 03-06 and mostly doesn't specify years in line, so I'm hoping this will be "the other way to do this mod" for older vehicles.

cheers.
 

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hey novasteve, do you still have an extra Sumitomo HD 250 Unsealed 1 pin male - PN 6098-0232? how much would you sell me 1 for?

got my bid on some switches on ebay and ordered a fog kit.
 

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So I’m halfway through trying to retrofit this to my 05 with a stalk mounted fog switch.

This is my wiring switch diagram (attached)

My multimeter tells me that pins 14 and 15 are switched on the pilot stalk with integrated fog switch. (Edit later for P/N).

Does anyone have the 07/08 wiring diagram for the element to confirm that for me? I’m really good at flipping these pins in my head. I haven’t always learned which side to look at the connector from, which messes me up often enough.
 

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Ok, 03-06 is a little bit different to make this work.

I'm much more of a lazy bastard and didn't shorten anything. I also have a short somewhere in the fogs so I'll have to pull the bumper again to find and repair it. I'll also take a few photos when I get back into wrap it up.

The two pins to add are here on the stalk switch connector. The pins from inside the winjet switch connector fit perfectly into the back of the switch connector. You also get 3 spares for your arsenal of future mods.

I should have used the green/yellow and red/yellow, not the black (I was just free styling there and made a mistake.)

The two added pins are the solid black and red/yellow that my finger and thumb are holding: (remember green/yellow instead of the black)


Also, I found it troublesome that the winjet harness turns on even without the key in and doesn't have a charm alarm, so I rerouted the switch power to a switched circuit. (which is why I need more photos)

To do that, you have to cut the green yellow here. I used an add a fuse to fuse slot 6 under the dash to reconnect the green/yellow. I had to add about 12" of wire to make it work.


This way when you take the key out the fogs shut off. I can tell that the switch and relay are working properly because I can hear the relay click on and off when I flip the switch.
 

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Last note _ I bought a pair of these that were shorting out inside one of the lights (the fuse would blow every time I'd turn them on)

The H3 bulb being used has a mediocre connection cover on it. I heat shrinked over everything metal and that made a difference (I also dropped one and broke it - oh boy.n/ found replacements thank God.)

See in the photo - the rubber cover hadn't been put back on properly and I don't trust the part of that spade hanging out of it. I covered the spade crimp with heat shrink and replaced the white rubber cover.

Cheers.
 

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