[BLizZ407]

I have two Kicker 07CVR12-2 12" 800W Comp VR Series Car Subwoofer DVC
But I dont know whats the best amp to get to get the full thump of the subs? Should I get a two channel or 1 mono. Keep in mind Im trying to add more speakers to the amp so I can get better mids and high. So im guessing a two channel would be better? and if so how many watts do you think would be the best to get? note this is my first time messing with systems in a car. Thanks for the help

 

[ORANGEE]

Start here:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10833

the search feature is your friend

 

[Yoda E SC]

If you are looking for an amp to just do the subs then you want one with around 800 watts RMS (not peak) like the ZX750.1 and that is stable at 2 ohms mono, which is rare for a stereo amplifier. Go mono, as in addition the the stability at 2 ohms most of them are class D which will put less of a strain on the electrical system cause lets face it , the E's alternator is not that impressive to begin with. I have a Kicker 700.5 waiting to go in mine once some of my other projects are done and it is going to run all the factory speaker locations (replaced with aftermarket of course) and my subs as it is a 5 channel dual class a/b & d amplifier. The 700.5 would do alright for you as well if you are planning on amping all the other speakers too, but if you are planning on putting the CVR's in a sealed box and not a ported one it might not be enough juice fro them.

 

[BLizZ407]

Start here:
http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10833

the search feature is your friend

I tried and I didnt find nothing useful so I rather look for myself. if I find nothing Ill ask. What you posted didnt help much for the fact that Im new. Im plaing on using the OEm radio untill I get enough to get the one that I want.

If you are looking for an amp to just do the subs then you want one with around 800 watts RMS (not peak) like the ZX750.1 and that is stable at 2 ohms mono, which is rare for a stereo amplifier. Go mono, as in addition the the stability at 2 ohms most of them are class D which will put less of a strain on the electrical system cause lets face it , the E's alternator is not that impressive to begin with. I have a Kicker 700.5 waiting to go in mine once some of my other projects are done and it is going to run all the factory speaker locations (replaced with aftermarket of course) and my subs as it is a 5 channel dual class a/b & d amplifier. The 700.5 would do alright for you as well if you are planning on amping all the other speakers too, but if you are planning on putting the CVR's in a sealed box and not a ported one it might not be enough juice fro them.

Then you think I should get this amp
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9045829&type=product&id=1218012147672

The box I have Im pretty sure is ported looks a bit like this one
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9041075&type=product&id=1218011770155

I just put silicone on it today. So the box is sturdy when the speakers are hitting. Dont want nothing rattling. As I mentioned I'm trying to get good highs and mids with the amp. I dont think i will be changing the speakers on the car. Because when my girl drives it she usually doesnt like the to hear the boom. I will install a switch to kill the amp so everything toggles back to the regular set-up. Do you think that amp would do to connect the two 12's and like two 6.5 speakers? or should i just get a 1250w like the one below

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9045641&type=product&id=1218012128389

Thanks for the help. as I mention did is my first time messing with a car system. Just want a good thumpy bass with clear words. Thanks again.

 

[Yoda E SC]

A: not to minimize what you have already done, but there is no need to seal or silicone a prefab ported box. it is built in a factory to exacting tolorances and put together with high strength wood glue and fasteners, and oh yeah it has a huge hole in the front for air to vent from.

B: i would not even consider either of those amps. they are both 2 channel class a/b amps, not mono class d amps. they are not sufficent in power as both are rated at peak power, not RMS. and they will not do 2 existing speakers and a subwoofer off 1 amp if that is what you are looking to do. what kind of car are you working on anyway? what you need is a 3 or 5 channel amp like the kicker zx700.5 or the zx550.3 http://www.kicker.com/zx_amplifiers or a seperate amp for the subs and the mids/highs. the latter option would be what you would probaly want to go with because you will not be able to "turn off" the sub portion of the amp if you went with an all in 1 like the kicker amps mentioned.

 

[BLizZ407]

A: not to minimize what you have already done, but there is no need to seal or silicone a prefab ported box. it is built in a factory to exacting tolorances and put together with high strength wood glue and fasteners, and oh yeah it has a huge hole in the front for air to vent from.

B: i would not even consider either of those amps. they are both 2 channel class a/b amps, not mono class d amps. they are not sufficent in power as both are rated at peak power, not RMS. and they will not do 2 existing speakers and a subwoofer off 1 amp if that is what you are looking to do. what kind of car are you working on anyway? what you need is a 3 or 5 channel amp like the kicker zx700.5 or the zx550.3 http://www.kicker.com/zx_amplifiers or a seperate amp for the subs and the mids/highs. the latter option would be what you would probaly want to go with because you will not be able to "turn off" the sub portion of the amp if you went with an all in 1 like the kicker amps mentioned.

The reason I did it was because the box was used by my boy couple years ago and he told me that it rattled when he had it. So fixed it up a bit. put a brand new carpet all the way around. and added the silicone so it could be sturdy.

Alright Im looking at the zx700.5. and Im thinking about getting it today. Would I still need a extra amp for the mids/highs or would that one do? if yes which one would be a decent one?

The car by the way is 2003 Honda Element

 

[Yoda E SC]

Ok i see you updated your profile now so we know what we are dealing with car wise

now i understand the reasoning behind the "box work" you have done, didnt know it was previously enjoyed.

the kicker zx700.5 is a killer amp, i have had a few of them in a few cars i have owned and am just waiting to put the one i have now in. you will not be able to hook a toggle up to turn just the subs off with it as it is similar (but way bigger and more powerful) than the factory amp that is in the kickpanel of your truck from the factory in that one turn on lead powers up the whole thing, not just parts of the amp. It does however come with an adjustable level control knob that just controls the sub level so you can turn them up and down accordingly.

get the amp from ebay, right around 300 bucks, which is pretty good. you will like the amp alot, i do.

 

[BLizZ407]

Ok i see you updated your profile now so we know what we are dealing with car wise

now i understand the reasoning behind the "box work" you have done, didnt know it was previously enjoyed.

the kicker zx700.5 is a killer amp, i have had a few of them in a few cars i have owned and am just waiting to put the one i have now in. you will not be able to hook a toggle up to turn just the subs off with it as it is similar (but way bigger and more powerful) than the factory amp that is in the kickpanel of your truck from the factory in that one turn on lead powers up the whole thing, not just parts of the amp. It does however come with an adjustable level control knob that just controls the sub level so you can turn them up and down accordingly.

get the amp from ebay, right around 300 bucks, which is pretty good. you will like the amp alot, i do.

Yeah, Now Im going to enjoy them till I plan on how I want to make my box!

Sounds good. I saw a few reviews of them and I got to say it sounds like they do the work. I have a question? How would i go about installing the amp to my factory radio? would I need a certain adapter or are the rca cable already in the back of the radio? Is there any other switch i can install to toggle them off and on that would work? Also about the mids/highs would it work fine as well with that amp? or what other amp would you recommend for them? Not im only trying to install to 6.5

 

[Serj22]

Remember that sealed boxes are powerhogs. I've never been into the dual or multiple subwoofer thing. Right now I'm just running a huge 12" in the trunk, and when you only have one, you can focus the power on it, and have your rear speakers make up for the stereo sound in the bass. I run way too much power out of the car, but I also have a cap hooked up in the series as well. As far as I can tell, it doesn't do any good, but it sure does look cool. ;-) and I get a lot of people asking me "is that a bomb?". I would not buy a sealed enclosure from a store, etc, for $20, you can buy an 8ft X 4ft piece of 3/4 inch MDF and make your own, wheras a store will probably want at least $60 for each single box or such, I've seen them get as expensive as $300 at Best Buy for cheapie boxes. (they look nice though).

I'd go for a class D amp, they're nice because they don't really overheat like a solid block, which I have run forever. Currently pushing a rediculously huge 1500 watt (750RMS) monoblock for the sub and a 600 (75RMS/Channel 4 channel) for the speakers. I have another 250RMS I was planning on putting in and adding more speakers for it into their own boxes behind the seats or something, but the headlights already dim quite a bit. All my amps have had that BASS control, and it's really nice especially if you have an Ipod or MP3 hooked up and the songs go from David Lanz into Beastie Boys and just pop your ear drums.

 

[BLizZ407]

Remember that sealed boxes are powerhogs. I've never been into the dual or multiple subwoofer thing. Right now I'm just running a huge 12" in the trunk, and when you only have one, you can focus the power on it, and have your rear speakers make up for the stereo sound in the bass. I run way too much power out of the car, but I also have a cap hooked up in the series as well. As far as I can tell, it doesn't do any good, but it sure does look cool. ;-) and I get a lot of people asking me "is that a bomb?". I would not buy a sealed enclosure from a store, etc, for $20, you can buy an 8ft X 4ft piece of 3/4 inch MDF and make your own, wheras a store will probably want at least $60 for each single box or such, I've seen them get as expensive as $300 at Best Buy for cheapie boxes. (they look nice though).

I'd go for a class D amp, they're nice because they don't really overheat like a solid block, which I have run forever. Currently pushing a rediculously huge 1500 watt (750RMS) monoblock for the sub and a 600 (75RMS/Channel 4 channel) for the speakers. I have another 250RMS I was planning on putting in and adding more speakers for it into their own boxes behind the seats or something, but the headlights already dim quite a bit. All my amps have had that BASS control, and it's really nice especially if you have an Ipod or MP3 hooked up and the songs go from David Lanz into Beastie Boys and just pop your ear drums.

Yeah I was thinking about getting a cap so the lights wouldnt dim and I wouldnt be sucking too much juice from the battery as Im going to have two 12's. the thing about that problem is I cant really get to the back speakers because the element doesnt have any in the back its in the back door and Im not trying to mess with that. I just want to keep everything in the trunk. But im not sure if I should use the same amp thats pushin my speakers or get another one two push those two 6.5 I want to hook up. Im not going to buy another box for that I would just keep the one I got ROFL. I said I was going to keep it till I figured out how do I want to make my new box. lol

Sounds like you have a thumpy system going on. what type of car you got? loks like nissan in the sig

 

[Yoda E SC]

you are going to need the PAC AOEM-HON20/1 to use the factory radio with an aftermarket amp. that will plug in behind the factory radio and give you 4 rca outputs for your new amp. the kicker 700.5 is auto sensing where it will work with only 2 or 4 inputs and not need a dedicated subwoofer one. there is a dedicated sub output on the fatory radio but the type of signal it puts out isnt usable by an aftermarket amp so you will control the level of the subwoofer with that knob shown in the prior post.

there is no way to just turn the sub part on and off with that amp, it is all done with one turn on. the factory speakers will be fine for now with that amp powering them and will be good for later if you replace them. all the wiring can be caught in the passenger kickpanel going to them from the factory amp.

 

[Serj22]

Yeah I was thinking about getting a cap so the lights wouldnt dim and I wouldnt be sucking too much juice from the battery as Im going to have two 12's. the thing about that problem is I cant really get to the back speakers because the element doesnt have any in the back its in the back door and Im not trying to mess with that. I just want to keep everything in the trunk. But im not sure if I should use the same amp thats pushin my speakers or get another one two push those two 6.5 I want to hook up. Im not going to buy another box for that I would just keep the one I got ROFL. I said I was going to keep it till I figured out how do I want to make my new box. lol

Sounds like you have a thumpy system going on. what type of car you got? loks like nissan in the sig

THe cap doesn't help the headlights in my system... at all, if I have the music turned up while driving, it looks like I'm flashing the headlights on and off. It helped a little because the headlights used to almost be so dim they were practically off, and they don't dim that bad anymore.

NISSAN?! FOR SHAME! It is a Honda Cr-v, a cousin of the Element, in fact it has the same K-series engine (and is practically the same car) but just for a different styling and use. Element is more utility/personality, the Cr-v has more sporty lines and not as rugged. Not many people customize the 2002-2006 Cr-v's, because they are expensive to begin with, so you see a lot of the originals around. This is my Cr-Viper, (click) and yes, it does have a pretty heavy system.

 

[BLizZ407]

you are going to need the PAC AOEM-HON20/1 to use the factory radio with an aftermarket amp. that will plug in behind the factory radio and give you 4 rca outputs for your new amp. the kicker 700.5 is auto sensing where it will work with only 2 or 4 inputs and not need a dedicated subwoofer one. there is a dedicated sub output on the fatory radio but the type of signal it puts out isnt usable by an aftermarket amp so you will control the level of the subwoofer with that knob shown in the prior post.

there is no way to just turn the sub part on and off with that amp, it is all done with one turn on. the factory speakers will be fine for now with that amp powering them and will be good for later if you replace them. all the wiring can be caught in the passenger kickpanel going to them from the factory amp.

Where do you think I can get that piece from in a local shop? I see your in florida too Im in orlando. Alright got that. Thanks for the info. I know the perfect spot to put the knob at too. The kickpanel part sounds kinda complicated. So I just run a hidden wire to the kickpanel and connect it to the factory car speakers? if so how many wires do i have to run and how many speakers can i connect using the amp? Sorry for the newb question but I am new :-(

THe cap doesn't help the headlights in my system... at all, if I have the music turned up while driving, it looks like I'm flashing the headlights on and off. It helped a little because the headlights used to almost be so dim they were practically off, and they don't dim that bad anymore.

NISSAN?! FOR SHAME! It is a Honda Cr-v, a cousin of the Element, in fact it has the same K-series engine (and is practically the same car) but just for a different styling and use. Element is more utility/personality, the Cr-v has more sporty lines and not as rugged. Not many people customize the 2002-2006 Cr-v's, because they are expensive to begin with, so you see a lot of the originals around. This is my Cr-Viper, (click) and yes, it does have a pretty heavy system.

Damnn thats crazyy.. You only got one 12 correct? I wonder what my two 12's would do when i blast them lol. Ohh i see. The grill I think is what gives it that nissan look. Still looks clean tho. I like the paint.

 

[Serj22]

Damnn thats crazyy.. You only got one 12 correct? I wonder what my two 12's would do when i blast them lol. Ohh i see. The grill I think is what gives it that nissan look. Still looks clean tho. I like the paint.

Thanks, it's actually technically not a 12" since the outer rim (though thin) comes to 12.25" so it won't fit in a store-bought enclosure, and is also discontinued. It's a solid aluminum (no plastic anywhere, even the "cone" is aluminum) and chrome plated on the back, dual cone (weights about 16lbs) and has a 2,000 watt peak. It's one 12, but it's a big-un.

 

[Yoda E SC]

you will disconnect the factory amp in the kickpanel and the output from your new amp to them. you can connect to the wires directly with 4 sets of speaker wire or you can get a 70-1726 Metra harness that will plug right in to it. makes it not so complicated. just search ebay for both parts(AOEM-HON20 & 70-1726).

 

[BLizZ407]

you will disconnect the factory amp in the kickpanel and the output from your new amp to them. you can connect to the wires directly with 4 sets of speaker wire or you can get a 70-1726 Metra harness that will plug right in to it. makes it not so complicated. just search ebay for both parts(AOEM-HON20 & 70-1726).

Alright I will be being those. Do you have any pictures or a tutorial showing on how to connect the harness to it? and how to get to the kick panel as Im not sure how to thanks for your help

 

[Yoda E SC]

just pull up on the plastic sill plate to release the clips then pull the kickpanel towards the center of the truck and boom, there it is. two plugs in the bottom of the amp, pull them both out and plug in the 70-1726. done.

 

[BLizZ407]

just pull up on the plastic sill plate to release the clips then pull the kickpanel towards the center of the truck and boom, there it is. two plugs in the bottom of the amp, pull them both out and plug in the 70-1726. done.

Alright got it thanks. So how do you think I should have the amp set up? like the config

 

[BigTzElement]

Just an fyi. Caps are marketing hype. Get one if you like the look of them. But don't get one because you think it is going to "help" you power your amps. If you are having light dimming issues get another battery.

Make sure the battery you get is for high power audio systems. Like a Stinger.

Here is a link to the batteries I am running. ---->HERE<----

It is a dry cell sealed battery and can be mounted anywhere.

As many know I have 8 amplifiers running over 4500 watts. I have ZERO caps and ZERO headlight dimming or other "issues" I run two Stinger batteries. One is in the stock location and the other is in the spare tire well.

Check out my car domain page if you want to see my system.

 

[BLizZ407]

Just an fyi. Caps are marketing hype. Get one if you like the look of them. But don't get one because you think it is going to "help" you power your amps. If you are having light dimming issues get another battery.

Make sure the battery you get is for high power audio systems. Like a Stinger.

Here is a link to the batteries I am running. ---->HERE<----

It is a dry cell sealed battery and can be mounted anywhere.

As many know I have 8 amplifiers running over 4500 watts. I have ZERO caps and ZERO headlight dimming or other "issues" I run two Stinger batteries. One is in the stock location and the other is in the spare tire well.

Check out my car domain page if you want to see my system.

Thanks for the information.:-|