Another approach to the bed platform

101929 Views 45 Replies 14 Participants Last post by taycalm, May 10, 2015

Gaily

Discussion Starter · May 17, 2006

For the N.E. E.O.C. camping E-vent this weekend I choose to go with a platform for the storage & not having to move everything for sleeping. Had my brother the master builder design one. He insisted support was need in the center & I didn't want a frame going across the floor. We came up with a box for support, which also holds a 10x10 canopy & tent poles.

Box attaches to front support with bed hooks. For support between the front & rear ledges he used a piece of aluminum extrusion set in the box. The center platform is held in place with dowels, piece behind the seats is hinged to center to hold it in place. Rear piece is not attached, doesn't move.

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Gaily

Discussion Starter · #2 · May 17, 2006

few more pics

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Gaily

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 17, 2006

final few pics

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paulj

· #4 · May 17, 2006

Does the platform rest on the back bins? What thickness? 1/2"?

paulj

Gaily

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 17, 2006

paulj said:
Does the platform rest on the back bins? What thickness? 1/2"?

paulj

1/2" thick & rests on back bins

kb9yiv

· #6 · May 17, 2006

That is a excellent mod for any E. By any chance will you be posting the building schematics???

Gaily

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 17, 2006

kb9yiv said:
That is a excellent mod for any E. By any chance will you be posting the building schematics???

Thanks. Have to get my brother to write up the specs. Should have by next week.

kb9yiv

· #8 · May 17, 2006

msgail said:
Thanks. Have to get my brother to write up the specs. Should have by next week.

Thanks I appreciate it.

paulj

· #9 · May 17, 2006

msgail said:
1/2" thick & rests on back bins

That's consistent with my sense - 1/2" is enough for spanning half the width as you have done, 3/4" is needed for the full width. I used 1" boards plus 1/2" on my platform to span the full width.

paulj

spdrcr5

· #10 · May 17, 2006

Looks very nice Gail. Is the platform resting on the rear side storage under the windows? If not, how wobbly is the platform when you sit on a corner?

KSB

· #11 · May 17, 2006

Nice job. Really like it. Please do post the plans when you can.

Thanks,

Ken

Gaily

Discussion Starter · #12 · May 19, 2006

spdrcr5 said:
Looks very nice Gail. Is the platform resting on the rear side storage under the windows? If not, how wobbly is the platform when you sit on a corner?

Larry yes it is. If you are refering to the corners by side doors no wobble. There are dowels between the box & end support to keep from coming off the bed hooks.

Ok guys anyone interested in detailed construction drawings give me your email address. Can't promise I'll have time before I leave for the big camping weekend but will be back on Sunday.

Special thanks to my nephew for the drawings.

cai88

· #13 · May 19, 2006

Gail that looks awesome! Can't wait to check it out this weekend.

SamIam

· #14 · May 20, 2006

Perfect, I like this so much better than the pvc pipes everywhere! Can't wait to see the plans! Great job!

Gaily

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 24, 2006 (Edited by Moderator)

My brother & I thank you for all the compliments.

Update - after spending the weekend on Tentback Mtn I am very satisfied with the setup. So far the only adjustment to be made is to cut out one corner behind the front seats for my feet. Will make getting out much easier.

One item left out of the drawings is what to do when you take the spare tire cover out. There's no floor. Solved that issued with a board the length of the spare tire well that sits on the edge (same as the cover) & about 4" wide. To fill the gap to the tire I folded up a towel. Worked fine. The box never moved.

Thanks to Paul for putting the drawings on your site. If you haven't already, check out all his mods.

www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/msgail_platform.pdf

jurneez

· #16 · May 24, 2006

Hey Gail,
Just talked to someone tonight to help me with this project. After seeing yours I knew it was the answer with the corner cut off, but saved, and my question to you is, I can't remember the type of wood you told me.

Needs to be light wieght and strong. Vinnie will be there too.
Your pics are great and the plans are very easy to read.

Such a gas!
cya, jurn

Gaily

Discussion Starter · #17 · May 24, 2006

Jurn for the box & front support Tom used Black Melamine. For the platform he used Baltic Birch, which I've been told is very strong due to multiple layers but remains very light. Will work fine for you & Vinnie. Mine was made from scrape material laying around the shop at work.

If you don't have access or want to pay the price for aluminun extrusion substitute with a 2x3 or 2x4 & cut it down.

MsGail

ramblerdan

· #18 · May 24, 2006 (Edited)

Gail,

1. About the cross brace (CD-1): Perhaps we could substitute inexpensive 1" aluminum box channel, with a concomitantly smaller notch cut into the box sides (BD-2). Another possibility if that's not strong enough is to assemble four lengths of 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle into a box structure, though that will get pricy, too. I'm considering adding folding legs on the ends of the brace, or possibly extending it into the garnish, to help support that part of the platform.

What's that knob below the cross brace? A locking mechanism?

2. Re the piano hinge between the front and middle panels: If it's mounted with the flats on top of the panels and the rolled part of the hinge facing down, there would be a 3/16" inch or so gap between the panel edges. If it's facing up, it will stick up about that much above the panels (though the carpeting might make up for this). Which way does your hinge face? Based on how the panels fold completely back for storage, I'm guessing that the hinges face up.

3. I found non-mortise bed rail fittings at my local Woodcraft store: Part No. 142496, $12 for a set of four (also available online). With the fittings holding the box assembly to the front support (BD-3), what purpose do the front dowels (BD-6) serve?

4. With your driver's seat all the way back and up, how far can you recline before the platform interferes?

Wish I'd thought of these questions while I was standing by the car!

I'm probably going to hinge the middle and rear panels together instead of the front and middle panels. Also, I expect to have BD-5 cut out of 3/4" melamine instead of the 1/2" birch; therefore BD-4 will be 1 1/2" wide instead of 1 3/4".

Finally--and this only applies to me--I'm going to cut the front panel and all three sides of the box 2" shorter than in the plans because of my repositioned driver's seat.

EDIT: Thanks, Larry: I forgot to go check the photos. Doh!

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spdrcr5

· #19 · May 24, 2006

Paul, it doesn't look like the platform will interfere with the rear speakers at all. The platform looks like it will be just below the speaker covers based on the pics in this thread.

Gaily

Discussion Starter · #20 · May 24, 2006

Paul,

I'll do my best to answer your questions. Put the box back together & took some pics.

#1 - Not being a carpenter I'm sure there are many ways to do this brace. It supports the front & center platform equally so a 2x3 cut down to a 1/2x3 would also work. The notch would be 1/2 deep x 3 wide. Don't want to notch to deep into the box otherwise you can't get the canopy in.

The knob is a Dimco 1/4-20 Female & holds the center brace in place.

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