Honda Element Owners Club banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was reading an article on Truckin Magazines site where they dynoed a stock E then added an Injen intake & catback. Stock it was 126.4whp & 128.9ft-lbs with intake it was 127.2whp & 138.8ft-lbs when the cat back was added it went to 130whp & 140.3ft-lbs. All these number were made with the ECU reset but no learning time with the mods.
On to my point there has been alot of talk about catbacks & headers on th EOC lately. OBX came out with a header & I think we are all waiting on someone to get it & give it a review.
Well i'm thinking I can swing getting one really soon & I'll do a full write up on install but I wanted to see how many people would be interested in before & after dynos.
I have now an RBB intake manifold & a PasswordJDM intake. I can put the stock intake back on pretty easily but i'm not gonna mess with the IM.
I don't really have the money to be going to the dyno " as my extra money would buy the header" so I thought I would pose the question & see if there were enough interest to dyno my E with just the RBB then with the Password JDM intake back on. Then go back & do the OBX header with RBB & stock intake then with the Password JDM intake.
I know that no one on here personally knows me so I would not expect anyone to be willing to send me money directly. So if there were a really trusted member like BigAl205, Dom.five,Insane_sc, JoJo etc any money sent could go to that person then after the dynos are done it gets sent to me to pay my CC back lol. I'm not looking to make anything just gas & the dyno time its self.
Its just an idea I thought I would through out there. I will do an install write up no mater what when I get a header but having real world numbers might be helpful for some of us.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
I have been looking at that obx header probly every day. if someone where to get it and do a writeup I would buy it in a heart beat. even though it is not carb friendly I would just keep all my onle stuff and reinstall when I need to get carbed.

I would be very interested. but as of now have no money in my acount so unless someone buys my fic. I cany get anything
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,238 Posts
JoJO, This is our chance! Take the money, I'll take some, then we can run away to BigAl's together!


Dom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
JoJO, This is our chance! Take the money, I'll take some, then we can run away to BigAl's together!
Dom
OMG I really laughed out loud on that one.
I'll check & see what kind of dyno costs are local. The last time I dynoed a car myself my friend had one & let me have free run of the place at night. I strapped my car to it for a week and made 42 pulls. I was learning how to use Crome for tuning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
crome for tuning?? I thought that was only used on wheels these days:razz:
check on dyno cost, We have at least 2 hear in town.
did you get any spec's on the obx header???(tube sizes)?
after my wife treed mine I almost lost desire ,but not completly.
yes I'll dough nate some for the cookie fund.
those dyno #'s for the air intake look about what my butt dyno thought.+ or - 3hp and + or -4 pounds feet torque. ( I have always had a problem holding a torque wrench with my toes):razz:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I ordered the OBX header this morning i'll take pics & mesurements of the piping as soon as it comes in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
i hope this makes a huge difference!!!

why not just turbo the E tho???
Well 5-8 whp & about the same tq is all im expecting but who knows. My friend dynoed his 98 civic with a Y8 in it then added a DC Sports header & gained 15 whp with no tuning.

As to the turbo well the header is about $360 shipped & a turbo kit is going to be $2500 to $3000. Plus I don't want the added trouble of a turbo. If I do any kind of power adder it will be N2O.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
are you still doing before & after dyno runs???
I was just comming to address that. Well the awd dyno that was in town is gone. So my option is to pull the driveshaft & run my awd E fwd. I'm not opposed to doing that but i'm not sure how the ecu is going to react to the rear not functioning.
If someone has tried this or knows the awd system in the E pretty well please chime in.
I'm guessing that butt dyno & fuel mileage will be all I have to go on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,238 Posts
You can still use the 2 wheel tests, If you disconnect the rear propeller shaft! It will give you an Idea of the approximate H.P. Within 3 or 4 H.P. .

Dom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ok so Dom your sure that pulling the rear shaft is not gonna give me any hick ups?
I'll check on the 2wd drive dyno & see what up with them on pricing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,238 Posts
The way the Honda system works is :( overly simplified version ) the shaft turns all the time at the same speed as the front wheels. The rear wheels are activated by an oil pressure difference. If the rears are not moving, and the input shaft to the rear is not turning the pump in the Differential, the clutches do not activate..( the pressure remains equal ) So it renders the system inert. Don't drive with it disconnected though. It will have no input from the front shaft, and the clutches will lock in. They will overheat quickly.


Dom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,390 Posts
I was just comming to address that. Well the awd dyno that was in town is gone. So my option is to pull the driveshaft & run my awd E fwd. I'm not opposed to doing that but i'm not sure how the ecu is going to react to the rear not functioning.
If someone has tried this or knows the awd system in the E pretty well please chime in.
I'm guessing that butt dyno & fuel mileage will be all I have to go on.
The ECU will never know...
.....psssst, there is nothing electrical connecting to the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
793 Posts
The ECU will never know...
.....psssst, there is nothing electrical connecting to the rear.
EXCEPT in the 07 and up. you HAVE to turn the VSA off or you can't go more than about 5 miles an hour...;-)

I know the OP does not have one of those models, but just an FYI...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
519 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Don't drive with it disconnected though. It will have no input from the front shaft, and the clutches will lock in. They will overheat quickly.
Dom
That is a big problem as i'm 40+ miles to the nearest dyno. I would have to pull it up on ramps & drop the shaft in the parking lot. I'm not sure that I really want to do that. I will dyno my E at some point no matter what but that puts a damper on the before & after pulls.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top