Anyone have a how to on coilover install?
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
The fronts are easy but the backs can be harder to adjust. The drivers rear oem assembly is a bitch to get out. When I did mine I snugged every thing slapped the wheels on with three lugs and dropped it down to see where I wanted it. I guess the speed and difficulty of install can be based on your abailities. Hit me back if you need help.
Joined
·
190 Posts
installing any set of coilovers on the element is pretty simple, as long as you're familiar with switching out suspension parts, or basically if you're pretty handy with tools.
fronts:
- 14mm socket for upper strut bolts. (x3)
- 19 and 21 mm sockets for lower strut bolts (x2)
- 12 mm socket for brake line bolt (x1)
- 19mm socket for ball joint
- ball joint separator, makes separation of your ball joint way much easier! (16 bucks at auto zone)
*** also when you completely remove your front struts, be careful not to hyper extend your axles! they can separate and possibly need replacement! i done it before! 200+ bucks to replace!***
rears:
- 14 mm socket for upper strut bolts (x2)
- 19 mm socket for lower strut bolt (x1)
***LR strut assembly will and i repeat, "WILL" be a pain in the ass to remove! there's a box that will limit your space when removing that assembly! you may smash your fingers!****
**** buy a camber kit asap and install it as soon as you do this install. your rear camber will be so messed up your car will look ugly!****
front camber kits only involve replacing your lower strut bolts.... only until someone mocks up a kit that consists of camber plates just like the ksports.
if you have a day to spend in the garage, im sure anyone can do this. a really simple install, but can be lengthy if you're not familiar. in my case, i can fully swap out an element's suspension and install coilovers within 2 hours just because i swapped them out countless times. just try it. anyone can do it!
=)
fronts:
- 14mm socket for upper strut bolts. (x3)
- 19 and 21 mm sockets for lower strut bolts (x2)
- 12 mm socket for brake line bolt (x1)
- 19mm socket for ball joint
- ball joint separator, makes separation of your ball joint way much easier! (16 bucks at auto zone)
*** also when you completely remove your front struts, be careful not to hyper extend your axles! they can separate and possibly need replacement! i done it before! 200+ bucks to replace!***
rears:
- 14 mm socket for upper strut bolts (x2)
- 19 mm socket for lower strut bolt (x1)
***LR strut assembly will and i repeat, "WILL" be a pain in the ass to remove! there's a box that will limit your space when removing that assembly! you may smash your fingers!****
**** buy a camber kit asap and install it as soon as you do this install. your rear camber will be so messed up your car will look ugly!****
front camber kits only involve replacing your lower strut bolts.... only until someone mocks up a kit that consists of camber plates just like the ksports.
if you have a day to spend in the garage, im sure anyone can do this. a really simple install, but can be lengthy if you're not familiar. in my case, i can fully swap out an element's suspension and install coilovers within 2 hours just because i swapped them out countless times. just try it. anyone can do it!
=)
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Yes, on your Ksports, you do NOT need front camber bolts, only the rear camber kit. Also, I found that if you drop your rear sway bar body mounts(12mm socket), you can get the rears out in about 20 minutes, I am not kidding, I did my entire ksport install in about 4 hours with 2 jack stand and all basic tools, no lift. Get PB Blaster and soak all your bolts the day before, it WILL save your a lot of time the day of install.
The hardest part is the pre adjustments and with the rear KSports, once you find the height you want your rears to be at, take off the top nut, turn the inner sleeve down about 3/4", the take a jack and pump under the rear control arm to push the strut back through the top hat and tighten, this will give yoyr ksports a lot more travel and will not bottom out do to the soft rear springs. Once KSport makes a revises spring for us, this should solve the problem. With the setup I mentioned abouve, you should not bottom out the shock on normal driving, but on big jarring bumps, you still may, especially with wieght in the back.
Later
Steve
The hardest part is the pre adjustments and with the rear KSports, once you find the height you want your rears to be at, take off the top nut, turn the inner sleeve down about 3/4", the take a jack and pump under the rear control arm to push the strut back through the top hat and tighten, this will give yoyr ksports a lot more travel and will not bottom out do to the soft rear springs. Once KSport makes a revises spring for us, this should solve the problem. With the setup I mentioned abouve, you should not bottom out the shock on normal driving, but on big jarring bumps, you still may, especially with wieght in the back.
Later
Steve
Joined
·
3,713 Posts
I just wanted to make sure about something, the top of the front Ksport has
the pillow ball mount. That is how you adjust the camber for the fronts, correct??
Someone in another post said they were for caster??
I want to make sure when you say you dont need front camber bolts, that the
reason is because you can adjust it with the top of the Ksport. Let me know.
Thanks.
Joined
·
3,415 Posts
Well, it would be if the opening in the top of the shock tower was larger. As you can see from this picture the travel of the adjusters is so limited to as to make them unusable.
Attachments
Joined
·
3,713 Posts
My main reason for asking is to make sure it does camber. Looking at that
set up, (I havent installed mine yet), it looks like there are more than just four
holes on the camber plate. If you wanted to give that specific E more negative
camber, you could take the two screws closest to the top of the pic, closest
to the engine, and move them to the two empty holes. You could then slide the
plate in toward the engine bay giving you more negative camber. By doing the
opposite, you could add more camber. Here is a pic from the Ksport website
that shows the extra holes that I am talking about, in case you cant see them
in the pic above).
Joined
·
3,415 Posts
Ah-HAH! I missed the holes in the picture I posted. Although moving the bolts to other holes will adjust the camber it may not be as precise as some tech would like but it would be better than having the massive negative camber from lowering the vehicle destroying your tires. You would have to remove the bolts, move the strut top toward the outside of the car and then place the bolts in whatever holes are available to keep it in that position.My main reason for asking is to make sure it does camber. Looking at that
set up, (I havent installed mine yet), it looks like there are more than just four
holes on the camber plate. If you wanted to give that specific E more negative
camber, you could take the two screws closest to the top of the pic, closest
to the engine, and move them to the two empty holes. You could then slide the
plate in toward the engine bay giving you more negative camber. By doing the
opposite, you could add more camber. Here is a pic from the Ksport website
that shows the extra holes that I am talking about, in case you cant see them
in the pic above).
![]()
There is no caster adjustment however.
Also: That strut mount in the picture above is not the same as the picture I posted. Note the difference in the mounting studs.
Joined
·
3,713 Posts
Yeah, just for reference. I have no idea what car that is from, just wanted
to show the mounting holes. I am sure they are similar if not exactly the same.
:-D
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
Joined
·
200 Posts
how the heck do you adjust the toe-in issue after the install??? i have my car on a lift and theres no way i can drive the way it is... i tried adjusting the tie-rods, but to get it straight, you literally have to turn the tie rods until theres only about 1 thread grabbing the tie rod end...
is there something i missed? is there a better way of adjusting the toe-in?
is there something i missed? is there a better way of adjusting the toe-in?
Are you sure you have the correct kit for your E? Toe should not be effected.
Joined
·
200 Posts
On a 2wd model, all you have to do is take the 3 10mm bolts out that hold the plastic canister in, and the spring assembly will come right out. Not sure how a 4wd model works, i would assume the axles would add to a bit of the headache.
Joined
·
200 Posts
yeah its marked correctly at least. and everything fits and bolts up properly. i am thinking its possible that the alignment might bring some of the other geometrics into spec and it might correct some of the toe issue. Maybe...idk... if all else fails, i will research longer rod ends, maybe theres another honda out there that has longer rod ends...
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
