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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This week on Patty's Element the battery died .

As I had stated in another thread, I had done some shopping. I finally made a decision, and went with the Walmart battery.

I did the usual things with the 9v battery to maintain all the car's settings. Positive to the Positive lead, and the negative side to the body ground.

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After removing the battery, I noticed that the Engine ground was cruddy. So you know I had to clean that up. The bolt needed cleaning also.
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After I got all that taken care of I could put in the battery.
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Not bad for 85.00$ I did need to replace the hold down clamp with something wider. Remove the plastic tray and Bedliner the sheet metal battery stand. Some bending of the tabs was required to obtain a proper fit.
Other than that not much to report.

Next post will show the finished project!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
It now starts faster than it did before.
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All in all it took less than an hour. Would have been faster If I did not paint the hold down bracket, Bedliner the tray and clean the ground.

That's all folks

Now to do the front pads. Notice the fluid is low ??

Dom
 

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Thank you.

The oil has been changed, new battery for the winter, and new front brakes. Rears were done last year.

I was at the dealer yesterday getting my oil changed and they advised that the fronts were a 3(average) and the rears a 5(good). Claimed the rotors were glazed whatever that means. Dominic said that both the brakes and rotors were good. He changed them anyway since we bought the parts last year. I guess the dealer is just trying to make more money or try to take advantage of a female. If I did the brakes at the dealer it would cost $299 with the rating of 3 and if I waited til it was 2 or lower it would cost more than $600. In addition they tried to tell me that I needed to do the rear differential. The rep stated should be done every 15k. I advise that must be dealer thing. When I got home I checked and Honda recommends around 90k or every 5 years.

Whenever you go to the dealer for service make sure you check what Honda is recommending not what the dealer is recommending.
 

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In addition they tried to tell me that I needed to do the rear differential. The rep stated should be done every 15k. I advise that must be dealer thing. When I got home I checked and Honda recommends around 90k or every 5 years.

Whenever you go to the dealer for service make sure you check what Honda is recommending not what the dealer is recommending.
Honda made a mistake with that one. You should change the rear differential fluid between 20K and 30K. There are lots of threads on this one, do a search.
 

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I just did this mod, I crammed in a Costco group 35 battery. 640CCA!

I could not quite get a proper fit in the sheetmetal battery base, mind you I only tried once. I was not fond of lifting and trying to fit a 35lb battery in and out.

So I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to lift the battery just above the tabs. took a little bit longer because of all the cutting, but managed to screw everything down in the end
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I just did this mod, I crammed in a Costco group 35 battery. 640CCA!

I could not quite get a proper fit in the sheetmetal battery base, mind you I only tried once. I was not fond of lifting and trying to fit a 35lb battery in and out.

So I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to lift the battery just above the tabs. took a little bit longer because of all the cutting, but managed to screw everything down in the end

I thought about doing the plywood also. I found that by just bending the tabs, it worked. Saved me some time. Did you look at the ground bolt?

Mickey52, I realize that about the rear differential fluid. I change it for bh045ct about every 25 to 30K. She has no idea when I do it for her. That reminds me, I need to do the fluid change on my E soon.

Oh Welcome to the EOC arcturus !

Dom
 

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Thanks for the welcome Dom :)

I did not get a good look at the grounding strap, at the time. But from my current vantage point it looks a little green, but not sure it that really affects anything.

I could only find a Rubber hold down at the Canadian Tire, as can be seen in the picture. This along with the plywood base means that my new battery is completely isolated from the vehicle chassis and i think will feel less vibration. I hear that vibrations are bad for batteries.

I attached some pics below. I made sure to pick out a nice fresh battery off the rack, the date code read 04/10, so only a month old. The battery is manufactured by Johnson controls, but appears slightly different from the battery in Dom's pics.

It is hard to see in the pics but i kept the plastic tray, but cut off the sides so that the plywood base would fit in it. I thought if I kept it, it would not slide out side to side.

Enjoy the pics
 

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If the ground strap is a "little green" you could be facing some electrical problems down the road. You'll eventually lose you ground connection and the E won't turn over. They're pretty easy to replace.
se
 

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Battery died today

Well-the wife called me at work and said the E wouldn't start. No shocker-75K miles and 4 years on the original craptastic Honda battery. Guy jumped it for her and she made it home.

Was going to go for the Group 35R-but the local parts stores don't stock the R version, so I bought an Autocraft Titanium 51R-2 ( made by Johnson Controls) at Advance auto parts for $95. 36 month free replacement/84 months pro rated. 500 CCA, 85 minutes reserve.

Ground straps were still nice-though I removed and cleaned the fender ground.
Lost one of the hold downs down under somewhere-replaced it with a generic.
 

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I need help from our more astute EOCer's...I'm at a loss to figure this one out.

In August 2007 we replaced the battery with the Optima 34. Everything has been great up until a couple of weeks ago. The E started to have a bit of trouble starting...it felt like the battery wasn't charged up, and was having trouble starting in the morning...but it would still turn over, and run fine. Since I travel about 160 km (100 miles) a day, there was no question in my mind that the battery should be getting fully charged, every day.

Then a couple of weeks ago, it sat most of the long weekend, and wouldn't start on the Tuesday morning. I had to boost it to get it started (it started right away with the boost), and ran to work and back with no problem. It ran all week with no problems. Then, on Sunday morning, it wouldn't start again. So we took it to Walmart to have them check it out (we bought the battery at Sam's, but they've closed all the Sam's on Ontario, so we had to take it to Wally World) I put it on the charger for a few hours before we took it in. They tested it, and said the positive cable was a bit loose, and tightened it up, and everything was fine again.

This past weekend, we came out on Saturday morning, and again, it wouldn't start. I put it on the charger, and left it there most of the day, until the charger said the battery was fully charged. Took it back to WallyWorld, and this time they tested it with their tester, and said it was ok. ( I had a bit of a discussion with them, because they only do a volt test on it, and I told them, repeatedly that it was on the charger all day, so of course it shows 12.66 V!!!)
I was really ticked off, so we took it home, and I read thru all the posts here, and everything I could find.
Sunday morning it wouldn't start again, so I took the battery out, and looked at all the cabling, and everything I could see. The ground to the engine, and the body looked a little green, so I thought 'screw it', and went out and bought 2 new cables, and replaced both grounds. Cleaned everything up, made sure I had shiny metal everywhere, and hooked it all back up. I had the battery on the charger while I was doing all this, out of the car.

It still wouldn't start. Now, this is where it gets a bit weird. It isn't a matter of it won't start at all...I chuggs then clicks...like the battery is dead, or not enough charge to start the vehicle. I let it sit for a minute, and I get just the dead battery whirring....
If it sits for a couple more minutes, it starts, like nothing is wrong.

So, since I'm now thinking it sounds alot to me like a dead cell (ya, I know...Optima...I read that thread, but I know what a dead cell sounds like...) So I took it out of the E, and over to Canadian Tire, because they have a machine to do load tests. The result is that the battery is good, fully charged, and showing 13.4 V So I put it all back together again...

Monday morning it starts, and off to work I go. Around noon I go to the bank. I starts fine again. I come out of the bank, and it won't start. Try again, it won't start. Again, same thing. Open the hood, look around, nope, close the hood, and it starts.

The E runs just fine. There are no warning lights, the charging light comes on just as it should, and goes out when the vehicle starts, everything runs just fine. There is no lights dimming, or normal warning signs that would indicate a fault with the charging system, even when we put everything on, and apply load to the system.

I'm thinking the next step is to take it in, and have it tested, but I think it will be a waste of money, because if there was a problem, it should indicate, and at least throw a code...which it's not doing.

Anyone wanna offer some advise?
 

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I would have them check out the starter. It sounds like a solenoid problem to me, or a bad ground at the starter.
 

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I have to agree with capt about the starter/solenoid.
Could also be a dead spot in the starter itself (an old GM problem)- usually you can whack the starter with a hammer and it will then turn over if it has the "dead spot" disease.

A shop that specializes in vehicle electrical repairs would be my first choice if you can't isolate the problem yourself. Electrical shops trace these problems all day-every day and will be more cost effective than a dealer or regular mechanic.
 

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I actually thought about that...thinking it could be a grounding issue at the starter - it's AT, so doesn't have a solenoid...(I have the shop manual)

Have you seen where the starter is? LOL

So, it looks like I'll have to borrow the father in laws ramps this weekend, and get under it.

Anyone else? I'd like as many idea's as possible please, since it looks like this is going to be 'let's try this, and see if it works' approach.
As long as I only try one thing at a time, eventually I have to find out what it is...

I've thought about the fuse block, and possibly a wiring problem, but I', really not about to start pulling on wires to see if something might be wrong there, until I absolutely have to
 

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So I've been shopping around based on some great info here.
First, you should know that you will not have any warantee unless you buy the exact Walmart battery (made by Exide) that their book recommends which is the 51R. Anything else voids the battery warantee. They are also going away from prorate after the initial 24 mo replace period is up. This came from 2 different Walmarts I talked to.
Sears DH gold batteries are once again manufactured by Johnson Control. They didn't seem to have a problem with buying a bigger battery, but won't install it for you if it's not what they recomend which is 51-R $90. Good 36mo/8 yr warantee.
The Napa 51R battery has only 18mo/65month and is $87 and is JohnCont. w 500/625 crank amps.
Costco seems to be exact same as above: JC with 500/625 amps, 36/100mo warantee, $56.99.
Looks like I'm heading to Costco and I might look at the group 35 like Arcturus bought...if I want to get into slight mods to make it fit. Will this bigger battery give me more radio time or just crank amps???

Hope that helps sum up things for anyone else in the market....
 

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So I've been shopping around based on some great info here.
First, you should know that you will not have any warantee unless you buy the exact Walmart battery (made by Exide) that their book recommends which is the 51R. Anything else voids the battery warantee. They are also going away from prorate after the initial 24 mo replace period is up. This came from 2 different Walmarts I talked to.
Sears DH gold batteries are once again manufactured by Johnson Control. They didn't seem to have a problem with buying a bigger battery, but won't install it for you if it's not what they recomend which is 51-R $90. Good 36mo/8 yr warantee.
The Napa 51R battery has only 18mo/65month and is $87 and is JohnCont. w 500/625 crank amps.
Costco seems to be exact same as above: JC with 500/625 amps, 36/100mo warantee, $56.99.
Looks like I'm heading to Costco and I might look at the group 35 like Arcturus bought...if I want to get into slight mods to make it fit. Will this bigger battery give me more radio time or just crank amps???

Hope that helps sum up things for anyone else in the market....
LOL
Which is a moot point, since they will NOT replace the battery for you in the vehicle....you have to take it out, and bring it to them...
Which kinda ticked me off, since mine was installed by Sam's club...
But Wally World, Sears, Costco, and pretty much any of these places want the battery on their counter, before they will even attempt to warranty it. It's also a good idea to have had it tested, and a copy of the test results with you when you bring it in, since most of these places are incapable of doing that.

On the subject of warranty, the battery is warrantied to perform as advertised, and they will not stop you from replacing it, as long as it's installed in a vehicle operating a 12v system (call a manager if they give you a hard time)

On an aside, this very 'principle' irritated the bejeebers outta me, and contributed to my 'discussion' with the Wally World 'mechanic' who tested my battery.
He said 'Well, I don't know why you need such a big battery in a 4 banger anyway.'

I couldn't stop myself...the words incompetent, and moron, and a few others came out of my mouth....I think I also mentioned that I understood why a parts changer like him could only find employment where he was....
 

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I couldn't stop myself...the words incompetent, and moron, and a few others came out of my mouth....I think I also mentioned that I understood why a parts changer like him could only find employment where he was....
__________________
ha,,awsome comments
 

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I have always bought used cars and I have had to replace numerous batteries after a normal time frame. I have always gone to Sears and purchased a Die Hard and had excellent results. Only once I had to take one back under warantee and I just drove up, they tested it in the car and then replaced it. Maybe that was the time period when they went away from JC batteries? Anyway, they would be my second choice in this situation. I like that they can run an electrical diagnosis for you if you want. Overall I've been happy and willing to pay for Sears customer service where I live. I'm going for the cost savings first though, thus costco.
 
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