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I finished my install today/tonight. For what I was after (1.5-2" up), spacers were not necessary, just the BC 40-60mm+ coilovers. I did buy the Aerogenics 1" front/ 2" rear block set, but couldn't get the rears to work, and they were not necessary at all. I did put the 1" blocks in, and they needed to be notched to accommodate the four centering bolts on the top of the front BC Coilovers. The Aerogenics front blocks do not play nice with the BC Coilovers top plate initially. My buddy has a machinist shop, so we were able to make quick work of the notching process, but if I had it to do all over again, I would not buy the Aerogenics blocks at all. I will keep the fronts on, as they're already in place and notched, but the front BC Coilover has enough adjustment for ride height that they are totally not necessary.

If Aerogenics wont take the rears back, I will put them up for sale.

I will update with details over the next week, but it was a long, successful day, and I have to work in the morning.

Briefly though, if you're looking for 1.5-2" over extra ride height, and a little bit of extra clearance for slightly larger tires, the 40-60mm BC Coilovers with 8/16 Swift springs gets you there with no blocks, and from my initial test drive tonight, a sweet, stiffer ride.
 

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was wondering why keep the front blocks in if they aren't needed. 1" block in the front and 2" block in the rear so that is a 1" lift in the front and like a 4" lift in the rear from aerogenics? didn't know aerogenics made a kit like that...or maybe you special ordered?
 

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Initial BC coilover settings?

Mtndragon - glad to hear you've got yours installed! ...and that you didn't need the extra blocks in the rear

Everyone - I've never used coilovers before. Can I set them to the height I want BEFORE installing them? What is BC racings initial setting? I can take/set measurements, but I have no idea what they should be.

I am also looking for 1.5"-2" lift. I got the +40mm set with spring upgrade.

Having someone do the instal for me & want to make sure they are set correctly before handing everything over to them.

Cheers!
 

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I am going to keep them in because...they're already in, and the ride height is set where I want it with them in. The front BC coilover has a tremendous amount of adjustment built into the shock, and I could have easily gotten the same ride height without them. I started on the fronts, so by the time I got to the rears, the front was already dialed in. Overall, I'd say I have roughly 2" in the front, and 2.5" in the back. The limiting factor in the front is the tie rod clearance not the BC Coilover. I am running a 225/16 AT tire as well, and my preload in the rear is turned up a little bit, as I typically have a few hundred pounds of ice, steel, and wood in the back because my car is a hunting and shooting rig that is loaded heavy and driven down rough roads nearly every week.

The rear BC coilover doesn't have nearly as much adjustment as the front, and where the rear coilover is set, without the blocks, is the max height available out of the rear. From this thread, speaking with Aerogenics, and information gleaned from Instagram, I was under the impression that more lift would be needed in the rear due to the limitations of the BC ride height. This was not true in my experience installing them. Additionally, there was no way that I could see to get a 2" block to work in the rear without preloading the shock with a jack, which is just not necessary with the 8/16 Swift springs and +40-60mm BC Coilovers.

My main reason for the follow up post is to let those know what I wish I had known...the Aerogenics blocks are not necessary in the rear for a roughly 2" ride height increase, and that the install is pretty straight forward for the BC coilovers. My car is an 04, so there was some wrestling with old bolts and nuts that had the corrosion you'd expect from a car that's had a tough life in snowy mountains. Otherwise, the whole thing is not complicated, and even adjusting the shocks once they're in place wasn't very difficult.

I did some more limited driving today, to and from work and to the grocery store, and the ride stiffness and handling are magnitudes better than my blown stock suspension. I will have the car aligned Monday, and then take it onto some dirt farm roads with a heavy payload over the next week and I'll see where I am at with things, but for now it's a pretty nice breath of fresh air for my well used Element.

was wondering why keep the front blocks in if they aren't needed. 1" block in the front and 2" block in the rear so that is a 1" lift in the front and like a 4" lift in the rear from aerogenics? didn't know aerogenics made a kit like that...or maybe you special ordered?
 

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You can ballpark the height adjustments before you put them in. Look on page 5 of this thread for the post with actual measurements of the gap between the lock rings. I used this as a rough guide.

According to Import Racing you want the threads at least 1-1 1/8 seated in the shock bases. For the rears, there is a hole in the base mid way up, and I set the height adjustment so that the threads were at the top of this hole. The fronts I set roughly mid-way in height adjustment. If I recall I was able to insert a ruler 1.5" up into the shock base before it hit the bottom of the threaded shock body assembly. It could have been 2.5" as well. There was a lot of measuring going on yesterday, and I don't recall each one, and I wasn't taking notes down. We then dropped the car back on the ground, checked height, and readjusted so that the tie rods where just off the frame when the car was in the air and the suspension was completely unweighted. This left me at about 1.5" of tie rod clearance off the frame when the car is on the ground. Since I won't be doing any Dukes of Hazard style airtime, I was comfortable with this clearance.

Once the coilovers were all installed myself and my buddy, both north of 220lbs, took turns dropping onto the tailgate together and separately to simulate a typical load I will be carrying, and we decided to dial up the preload just a wee bit in the rear. My car now sits slightly tail high, which will level out with a load. The ride is on the stiff side with nothing in the cargo area, but that is what I wanted.


Mtndragon - glad to hear you've got yours installed! ...and that you didn't need the extra blocks in the rear

Everyone - I've never used coilovers before. Can I set them to the height I want BEFORE installing them? What is BC racings initial setting? I can take/set measurements, but I have no idea what they should be.

I am also looking for 1.5"-2" lift. I got the +40mm set with spring upgrade.

Having someone do the instal for me & want to make sure they are set correctly before handing everything over to them.

Cheers!
 

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BC Racing Presets

Monday is the big day for ZORG! Going to the local shop for BC Racing install and new tires. The owner asked me to preset the coilovers as he's never done a BC kit, but he has done many aftermarket coilovers and is a certified Honda mechanic. (Wish me luck!)

I spoke with Import Image Racing & BC Racing techs today... Of course, because I haven't read the instructions yet!

IIR sent me a good video link on setting spring preload at 4mm:
youtube.com/watch?v=ckfaGVxCD6A

and another link for height adjustments:
youtube.com/watch?v=ufUi0clNzwM

BCR gave me some good advice about minimum insertion of the cartridge (shock, external threads) into the mount (bottom part, mounts to car, internal threads). The following is confirmed from my set of instructions. Be sure to read your own instructions, as there are at least 2 kits. Normal & +40mm.

Front - McPherson type - at least 80mm of threaded cartridge body into the mount.

Rear - Coilover - at least 25mm of threaded cartridge body into the mount.

I'm NOT sure what these will mean at the end of the day with new tires for overall increase, we will find out. I will also check my center axle position vs fender arch, to try and get a lift value that would affect the axle angles. I've read 1.5" - 2" is about the most one should go.

I'll update everyone next week on the lift with pics & such. Thanks for all the info on this thread, it's been HUGE help!! Once more over it in case I missed anything before Monday....
 

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Tie-Rod Emergency Help!

If anyone is out there, I've preset the coilovers as mentioned on page 5 of this thread, but now my tie rods won't connect with the suspension hanging.

What did I miss? What do I need?

Can anyone send a link to a solution? Or a product name/description. Car is at the shop now & mechanic needs a solution...

...ACCCK!
 

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Panic is over...

Working with a very understanding mechanic makes a world of difference! At the end of the day, literally, the result is a 2" suspension lift, 1" tire lift, for a total 3+" lift of the rear tailgate and I won't hit my head anymore :lol:

Seriously, reading this thread & absorbing all I could, then presetting my coilovers before handing them to the mechanic helped me understand what was happening & why. I believe it even earned me some garage cred at the shop 8)

Tie rod issues averted, #FattiesFitFine (tires), and the tail is .25" taller. I'll share some pics, dimensions, challenges, changes, and results in a couple days. Just happy to have it on the right road before the SHTF (snow hits the road here in NE Ohio. :hol010:
 

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Ok, first post, and I am hoping for some guidance on this.

I bought the BC Racing kit with 40-60mm extension and 8/16 springs and rear control arms. Took it to my favorite shop and they said it's a no go, and they couldn't get it to work "safely." The issue, according to them is that even with the struts adjusted for only a 1" lift, they were not happy with the tie rod clearance and pinch well clearance. The manager stated that the kit doesn't seem to be designed well for safety. He claims they spent 4 hours with one corner of the car, before they threw in the towel and claimed no glory.
It seems like most people in this thread are doing the install themselves. I have a buddy that has a shop, without a lift, who said we could get it done together. I do all the basic maintenance on my Element, and have all the factory service manual,and given I live in an area without a lot of shops/mechanics, I am thinking of doing it myself.
I spoke with Chris at Import Racing, and he state the Honda Element is about the easiest vehicle to install this coilover kit on, and they have never had the issues my shop is describing. The shop manager said if I am going to do this myself with my friend, plan on a day to a day and half without a lift to get this done.
So, I am looking for some feedback from the collective, please.

Did others experience issues with the tie rods, pinch wells, etc?

Is this a job that can be done in a half a day or so with all the right tools, except a lift?

I am wondering if I dug my self a rabbit hole that I never wanted to go down, and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Day to a day and a half sounds about right from what I remember when I did mine.

Sounds like the shop you took it too wasn't doing something right. I've got over 10k on mine with no problems so far. As I said in an earlier post, I wouldn't lift the front so much that the tie rods are hitting the frame. I left a half inch clearance with the front end off the ground (springs unloaded). Unless you're planning on taking your E off some jumps, a half inch, unloaded should be fine. Even with the added steering angle on the tie rods with the lift I haven't really noticed any bump-steer. The worst thing I've noticed is that the rubber on my new tie rod ends split a bit from the extra angle, but they're greasable (and cheap) so I'm not too worried about that. If you want to correct the tie rod angle you can get one of these and flip it upside down since it's usually used for lowered cars:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/192545034219

It replaces the bracket on the steering rack where the inner tie rod attaches. I plan on doing it eventually, but like I said--haven't really had any issues so far so I'm not in a hurry, just enjoying my hard work for now ?

This would be an opportune time to replace all the serviceable parts on your front suspension too. Ball joints, tie rods, LCA bushings, pads, rotors etc. Also: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE OEM AXLES. I can't stress that enough. You'll probably get some vibration on acceleration if you have aftermarket axles. Trust me. Stick with OEM for that.

Between the coilovers and the bigger tires I'm happy with where it sits. I do plan on jacking the rear up a bit more now that I have my cartop carrier and camper system installed, it looks a little saggy to me (probably just me tho :D) I've got some stuff in my highlighted stories over on my IG @bullcityelement, happy to try to answer any questions (I'm more likely to respond on IG)

Added note: this mod is completely reversible. Save your old struts and you can always go back if you don't like it.





Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Thanks for sharing I’ve Ben following you in IG for a while. Now that I’m a E owner FINALLY I’ll def be talking to you about the lift.
 

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No worries so far :)

I've got a few miles on my lift now, things have settled, and everything is still running well, no issues. I'll post some details this weekend & pics if I'm able. If there are any specific questions about the BC Racing coils +40mm lift kit with spring upgrade, please ask. I'll review & answer when I post my full set-up & install experience.

My biggest problem right now is where to put this full-size spare, LOL!!!
Cheers!
 

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Thanks for the update. Having my suspension Assessed as we speak. And I see what I want too do...
 

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Has anyone sprung (pun intended) for the upgraded DS series yet?
Nevermind. I called IIR today and they told me that the DS coilover package isn't available in the +40mm "lift" custom version. I'm kinda bummed but I least it makes the decision easier.
I'll be ordering the BR's in 8/16 kg/mm with Swifts.

The guy on the phone (Chris) said that the fronts come with a camber adjustment plate so camber bolts aren't needed up front. Was that everyone who's done it's experience ?
 

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Camber Plates

Hey Lumenbeing,
I asked my mechanic about eccentric bolts on the front end. He has experience doing lift & drop kits. He described he would loosen the 4 bolts on the camber plate, move as req'd and tighten them up. I plan to post pics after Christmas, if you check back later. They are shifted all the way over, and have all 4 bolts on each strut top. I believe the adjustment stop is a machined slot in the top plate.

The install & alignment went fine with nothing extra, only the IIR BCRacing +40mm Kit was used.
 

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Following this string sounds like a great solution. But I'm no mechanic. I saw mention that someone on the string was in the east bay. Anyone have a recommendation for a mechanic who knows this system in the San Francisco Bay Area. I'm in the peninsula but anywhere in the Bay would work.
 

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Hey everyone. Not sure if anyone is still following this...but I installed my coilovers this past weekend. I've got about 2 inches all around and I'm stoked!

I have one small issue, a tiny rattle coming from the front while driving straight and not necessarily hitting any bumps. Any ideas?? I have jacked it up and tightened everything 3x. Even smacked around with a
hammer but no luck!
 
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