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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys my first winter with the E ..
2003 ex.... 106k miles .
Been reading allot about diy oil changes .
Some say stick to the manual.
.(Regular conventional). others say Go 5w20 for winter and 30 for summer..... others say switch to synthetic after high mileage.

some also say the real synthetic is only found in Mobil 1 oil. 馃く lol.
what is the best filter ?...
also I don鈥檛 anycheap stuff on my e.. help a sister out ? Thanks guys 馃槂馃憤
 

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I use Mobil-1 but stick with the gold-top. In a past life, it used a different base than regular oil but I'm not sure of that any more. They're very stingy with that kind of information. A few, very expensive oils use various real synthetic base stock but there's nothing in an Element engine to make them worth the cost. It's neither turbocharged nor trying to run on one of the moons of Saturn.
Almost all oil sold as "synthetic" actually isn't, but it IS better refined than what's referred to as "conventional". The advantage is that it usually handles better in cold weather instead of getting heavy. Honda engines have very tight tolerances and thick or too heavy oil can hinder starting. I'm not sure of ANY situation that calls for a 30 weight oil in your Element but you can damage it that way by slowly gumming up the VTEC system.
A normal Element engine doesn't get hot enough to make synthetics necessary but if you're in a cold climate, they make starting up easier. Once the engine's warm, there's no noticeable difference.
Some synthetics do have advantages. As a multi-grade oil ages, the additives that stabilize the viscosity wear out. The higher grades of Mobil-1, for example, add extra stabilizing additives to make the oil last longer. Pennzoil Platinum is made up from natural gas and is known for being a "super" detergent oil. I have no experience with that one but I've seen several high mileage Mobil-1 engines torn down with absolutely NO sludge or varnish inside.
And for high mileage engines - use the same oil you've been using along the way. Again, thicker oil will make a mess of your VTEC.

Filters: Most filters are plenty good for the Element's 4-cyl engine. Personally, the ONLY filter I won't use is anything made by 馃が Fram 馃が because of the way they're put together. Over the years, I've had a couple of them collapse inside and dump sludge and paper bits in to the engine. They're made cheap - simply glued together inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is this the golden ticket right here? Lol
Thanks for the reply .. I live in nyc so yeah it鈥檒l be pretty cold up here . I was going to go with the dealer oil.. but I heard Mobil 1 is the best .. just want the Greatest for my E :)
 

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Yeah - that's what I like to use. I can't claim it's the absolute best oil because that question doesn't have a simple answer. How about "premium-really good"? You will notice much easier starting in sub-zero weather and I have yet to hear anyone on here say their VTEC screens plugged up on a long term Mobil-1 engine and it's very mainstream and easy to get anywhere.

Last I heard, the newer Honda vehicles with turbochargers (Acura) all came with Mobil-1 from the factory because they need an oil that stays stable at higher temperatures.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You are the 馃挘 bomb!! That鈥檚 what I鈥檓 going to use then .. thanks for the advice! Premium really good here we come! 馃槀
 

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Hey guys my first winter with the E ..
2003 ex.... 106k miles .
Been reading allot about diy oil changes .
Some say stick to the manual.
.(Regular conventional). others say Go 5w20 for winter and 30 for summer..... others say switch to synthetic after high mileage.

some also say the real synthetic is only found in Mobil 1 oil. 馃く lol.
what is the best filter ?...
also I don鈥檛 anycheap stuff on my e.. help a sister out ? Thanks guys 馃槂馃憤
Worked for a domestic oil company for 30-years.
Here is what I was taught:
1) You need to match the viscosity to the weather. The warmer the weather, the higher the viscosity.
so ...
2) 10w-40 works well all year round where I live -- in Southern California.

3) 5w-20 makes sense in areas where there is an actual winter.

4) Extreme conditions are another story. Our Alaska customers would keep their engines running 24/7 to prevent the engine from freezing up.

5) Change your oil often!
Hey, what did you expect from employee training in an oil company?
But, when you think about it:
Making sure you have winter oil in the winter and summer oil in the summer implies scheduling oil changes.
That makes sense to me.

6) Synthetic?
I admit that synthetic oil was just coming to the fore when I retired.
That said:
At the time, the main value of synthetic oil was its performance at high temperatures.
Looking at that backwards:
If you didn't have high temperature issues, you did NOT need synthetic oil.

Again ... my data is old here.
But I think it is reasonable to ask just what benefit the synthetic provides.
If you need that ... well use it.
If you don't need that ... go back to viscosity matching ... and shop.
 

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I have used Mobil 1 pretty much since the beginning changing at regular intervals and bosch filters. Would never use fram, even for a beater with a heater. I have 150k plus from new and zero buildup of any kind of sludge whatsoever. I also think it works well in winter. Change trans fluids and if you have 4wd, the rear diff often as well. Makes a big difference believe it or not.
 

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Hey guys my first winter with the E ..
2003 ex.... 106k miles .
Been reading allot about diy oil changes .
Some say stick to the manual.
.(Regular conventional). others say Go 5w20 for winter and 30 for summer..... others say switch to synthetic after high mileage.

some also say the real synthetic is only found in Mobil 1 oil. 馃く lol.
what is the best filter ?...
also I don鈥檛 anycheap stuff on my e.. help a sister out ? Thanks guys 馃槂馃憤
So very often people get hung up on oil... It's like religion to some people. Here's the real truth... get ready:
Just change the oil with what's recommended when it's recommended. That's it. ANY name brand 5w-20 oil of SN service classification (per round seal on label) and you'll be fine. Synthetic is better for extreme temp conditions, but ANY SN 5w-20 oil you've heard of will really be all you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have used Mobil 1 pretty much since the beginning changing at regular intervals and bosch filters. Would never use fram, even for a beater with a heater. I have 150k plus from new and zero buildup of any kind of sludge whatsoever. I also think it works well in winter. Change trans fluids and if you have 4wd, the rear diff often as well. Makes a big difference believe it or not.
........
I just got mine at 100k and I was so skeptical on changing the trans fluid Bc I hear that might mess up the tranny all together . I went with it and did it anyway .. the fluid was pretty pink (good sign) but the bolt caught lots of metal ... ( which concerned me... Bc I also read that if u change ur tranny fluid and the bolt has metal shavings means the tranny can be compromised. And if that鈥檚 the case and u put new fluid it removes the old shavings that add friction to the tranny might be bad .. gosh idk lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So very often people get hung up on oil... It's like religion to some people. Here's the real truth... get ready:
Just change the oil with what's recommended when it's recommended. That's it. ANY name brand 5w-20 oil of SN service classification (per round seal on label) and you'll be fine. Synthetic is better for extreme temp conditions, but ANY SN 5w-20 oil you've heard of will really be all you need.
Lol thanks 馃槉 that鈥檚 right to the point brotha lol
 
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