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I have a 2006 Honda Element. Works great. I like just about everything about it. I have a recurring heating issue, where the heat does not blow and I just get cold air from the vents and the car doesn't heat up. I took it to Firestone, and they said the "blend door" was stuck and that they had unstuck and lubricated it. It happened again, and I've taken it back several times now. (Just about every winter since I got the thing.) Now they are saying that since the blend door won't stay unstuck I should just replace the heater core (I think that's what they said) If I remember correctly, we also replaced the blend door motor once.

I would really like to have heat again, but isn't heater core replacement a very costly repair? Has anyone had this done before? How much did it cost you?
 

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Im a bit confused as to why you would need to replace a heater core when a vent door is to blame for the issue. Unless the door and core are the same assembly for some weird reason.
 

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Not a vent door. If the vent was causing problems, I'd tear it out of the dash and be done. Blend door. Apparently deep within the mysterious inner workings of the heating system there is a little "gate" that opens and closes depending on the position of the hot-cold dial on the dashboard. I don't think it's mechanically linked, otherwise you could feel it getting stuck when you turn the dial. It must send an electrical signal to the blend door motor (which was recently replaced in an effort to solve the problem) and open and close the gate allowing warm air, or only cold air to flow. I don't understand it either. I'm trying to research a little on Google right now, but it's being uncharacteristically unhelpful, and that's why I posted here.
 

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Not saying your heater core can't be bad, but it's unrelated to the blend door problem. With a warm engine, a full coolant level, and the temperature control turned to full hot, do you get heat in any mode? If yes, rule out the heater core.

Has your shop tried to pull an HVAC error code? [related post]

Parts diagram here.

Another relevant thread
 

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With a warm engine, good fluid levels and the control turned to hot, I get absolutely no warm or hot air, not even the ambient heat you get when the fan is on it's lowest setting with the heat on.

I don't know if the shop did that or not. I'll talk to them, and the Honda dealer around the corner sometime tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Talked to Firestone again today. They want to replace the entire "heater box" which I guess is the assembly within which the core and any other parts sit. I don't know what's so hard about filing down whatever anomaly is making the blend door stick, but I'm not to keen on continued swapping of expensive parts.

Is there another name for "heater box"? I'm not seeing a lot of search results by that term.
 

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With a warm engine, good fluid levels and the control turned to hot, I get absolutely no warm or hot air.
Does that hold for all modes (foot, face, defrost)?

Is there another name for "heater box"? I'm not seeing a lot of search results by that term.
See my "Parts diagram here" link above. Click on the images in that post; they go to vendor's pages that lists the names and part numbers of all the components.

Replacing the heater core, let alone the entire assembly, without knowing said components are malfunctioning is just throwing parts—and your money—at the problem, in lieu of actual diagnosis. Forget Firestone and find a repair shop that knows what it's doing. In this case, the best choice might be your local Honda dealer, assuming you have found them to be trustworthy.
 

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thats lame, dudes cryin and askin for help with his phone charging from members here, and members on this thread tried to help him, cant even do others the courtesy and report back if it was fixed or not. I run into this a lot on other forums also. works both ways, or at least it should
 

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before a newbie troll turns into a seagull and certainly before the troll gets a bunch of great advice, I dont think it would be out of line for the first advice giver to just ask the newbie troll nicely to report back with results of their issue if they felt like members here at least tried to help. but I know I am dreaming huh?
 

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askin for help with his phone charging from members here,
Huh? You sure you're posting on the right forum? :razz:

Or did I miss something? :?

There should be an emoticon for guy throwing popcorn on the beach. But then, the place would be full of them damn gulls!
 

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yea I am sure, on this guys last activity he was asking for more help about his phone not charging fast enuf off the car's cigarette jacks. that was months after flyin away on his heat problem he got good advice for. Sorry just dont have the patience for it anymore, But due to some great advice from another member here, I do know that its not the end of the world! sorry, couldn't resist!!
 

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did I just read all this, from a post 3 years ago, and it's a dead end...

Who takes a car to Firestone other than for tires....
 

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Since the topic comes up in searches from others looking for heater problems, I thought I'd add a post script to the thread based on personal experience...

When working on plastic vent doors, blend doors, diverter doors, etc in the dash, a lot of people (practiced mechanics too) think that the pivots need big wads of grease in order to work. They start off by making the BIG mistake that any kind of grease is just fine when you're working with plastic and you end up with the lubricated pieces self-destructing as the petroleum based products dissolve the material. Then they make the second biggest mistake by putting -any- kind of grease on pivots designed to be grease-less for a reason - that as air flows through, the sticky grease captures dust which quickly builds up in to abrasive mud that jams the joint again.

I'm not sure about the flaps in a Honda but most of these things are designed to be grease-less for a reason. The proper type of plastic-safe grease might go in the actuators but almost NEVER on the doors themselves.
 

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you are 100% right about the grease. I run into this topic with my fellow dirt bike riders who love to put the sticky oil on their chains. it attracts sand and dirt, turning it into valve lapping compound. i use triflow. and does plastic on plastic really need to be greased? i dont think so either, its not making any heat or high friction, and where i live when it gets cold it makes it worse
 

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"heater Box"

Just had the "heater box" replaced on my 2011 Honda Element. I had no heat when turned from cold to hot on the knob. The motor that turned the door from cold to hot was burned out about a month ago and they replaced that. When it stopped blowing heat again they had to replaced with Heater box that the door is located in. Apparently Honda has up graded the heater box to a higher quality.
 

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I have a 2006 Honda Element. Works great. I like just about everything about it. I have a recurring heating issue, where the heat does not blow and I just get cold air from the vents and the car doesn't heat up. I took it to Firestone, and they said the "blend door" was stuck and that they had unstuck and lubricated it. It happened again, and I've taken it back several times now. (Just about every winter since I got the thing.) Now they are saying that since the blend door won't stay unstuck I should just replace the heater core (I think that's what they said) If I remember correctly, we also replaced the blend door motor once.

I would really like to have heat again, but isn't heater core replacement a very costly repair? Has anyone had this done before? How much did it cost you?
 

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This is an old post put if someone has the same issues, here is what I learned through experience I wish I had not gained). There are 3 motors that control all the vents and stuff in a 04 Honda Element.
(1) the temp. is controlled by the blend door actuator that is high above and right of the gas petal behind the fuse box unfortunately. I did not have to change mine but did lightly lubricate with silicone lube. {see above post regarding petroleum based lubes.} By moving the large middle dial on the air control panel you can see if it is moving like it is suppose to. This moves a cable that sometimes comes off (happen to me) the 1/2 inch rod which is moved by this motor(actuator). This actuator does two things. It moves a vent door way under the dash in the center of the Element. This door moves hot or cold air where it is suppose to. This actuator, called the blend door actuator, also pushes or pulls a valve in a heater hose under the hood. I BELEIVE THIS IS THE PROBLEM THAT "M" HAD AT THE FIRST OF THIS THREAD, It is easy for a value in the heater hose to get fouled and not work. THIS IS THE NUMBER 1 PROBLEM WHEN YOU CAN'T GET BOTH HOT AND COLD AIR IN YOUR SYSTEM, The help you would get at Firestone depends on that individual mechanic's experience. Hit or miss and it your money.
(2) The source of the air the circulates in your Element., outside air or recirculated inside air. The large knop or dial on the passengers side controls this actuator. It should be called the fresh air actuator but I don't know what Honda calls it. This actuator is located behind and up behind the glove box that has to be removed to see it. This actuator only moves one door and can been seen moving if you turn the right dial off of AC MAX position.
(3) The third actuator is the one that failed in my Element. This actuator controls the vents and where the air comes out, from the defrost to the dashboard vents. This is crazy but this motor has a sprocket with 4 post on it that turns moves three nylon gears by moving through channels. No wonder it brakes. I'm discovering it very difficult to get this one back together. The manufacturer is addiment about not turning the shaft on the new actuator. That make it so hard to get all the post in different channels and at different levels. I'm so old, I remember when cars accomplished heating and cooling with two cables. It was much simpler, lighter and it was reliable.
I hope this will help someone. I sure could of used some help with my driveway mechanics repair.
 

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This is an old post put if someone has the same issues, here is what I learned through experience I wish I had not gained). There are 3 motors that control all the vents and stuff in a 04 Honda Element.
(1) the temp. is controlled by the blend door actuator that is high above and right of the gas petal behind the fuse box unfortunately. I did not have to change mine but did lightly lubricate with silicone lube. {see above post regarding petroleum based lubes.} By moving the large middle dial on the air control panel you can see if it is moving like it is suppose to. This moves a cable that sometimes comes off (happen to me) the 1/2 inch rod which is moved by this motor(actuator). This actuator does two things. It moves a vent door way under the dash in the center of the Element. This door moves hot or cold air where it is suppose to. This actuator, called the blend door actuator, also pushes or pulls a valve in a heater hose under the hood. I BELEIVE THIS IS THE PROBLEM THAT "M" HAD AT THE FIRST OF THIS THREAD, It is easy for a value in the heater hose to get fouled and not work. THIS IS THE NUMBER 1 PROBLEM WHEN YOU CAN'T GET BOTH HOT AND COLD AIR IN YOUR SYSTEM, The help you would get at Firestone depends on that individual mechanic's experience. Hit or miss and it your money.
(2) The source of the air the circulates in your Element., outside air or recirculated inside air. The large knop or dial on the passengers side controls this actuator. It should be called the fresh air actuator but I don't know what Honda calls it. This actuator is located behind and up behind the glove box that has to be removed to see it. This actuator only moves one door and can been seen moving if you turn the right dial off of AC MAX position.
(3) The third actuator is the one that failed in my Element. This actuator controls the vents and where the air comes out, from the defrost to the dashboard vents. This is crazy but this motor has a sprocket with 4 post on it that turns moves three nylon gears by moving through channels. No wonder it brakes. I'm discovering it very difficult to get this one back together. The manufacturer is addiment about not turning the shaft on the new actuator. That make it so hard to get all the post in different channels and at different levels. I'm so old, I remember when cars accomplished heating and cooling with two cables. It was much simpler, lighter and it was reliable.
I hope this will help someone. I sure could of used some help with my driveway mechanics repair.
 
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